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#1. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Marco
Top
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 09:07:43 -0800 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question One thing to note - there is a problematic area where the block and timing chain cover interface. Lots of people end up having oil leaks in that spot after replacing the headgasket. Especially if they decked the block even a tiny bit. I'd recommend a bit of sealant there. Not sure what kind, maybe others can chime in. You probably will be ok since you haven't decked the block, but never the less it would suck to have an oil leak there. I learned the hard way and needed to seal it post assembly with some stuff permatex makes. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Mark Duckworth [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:14 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 11:11:47 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question Hello guys, I've been chatting around and I think I found some answers on the block deck cleaning subject. 1. It seems that gasket remover spray is an absolute necessity. I bought some but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet. A guy I know who rebuilds engines thought I was nuts when I told him I was using brake parts cleaner and a plastic scraper. He said I won't get anywhere without a razor blade (used carefully) and gasket remover. Regarding the sand paper, I don't think vac was far off. My personal opinion is that the block deck should be as "factory" finished as possible, but there seems to be some opinion that you should do a cross hatch pattern with a block and low grit number sand paper. A buddy of mine says in his experience it helps it seal. I asked him "wouldn't they do that from the factory then?" and he gave me a puzzled look. So clearly there's some disagreement on the subject but the path I am taking will be to use gasket remover and a razor blade to scrape the remaining nasties away to leave as factory of a finish as possible. The worst part seems to be an almost invisible film of a teflon like material which is on the entire block deck. I imagine some people don't realize that this is there and it's a cause of future failures. I wouldn't have realized it either except for some of this material came off towards the front. Also when you use just a plastic scraper on the traces of the red surround material off, there seems to be a higher level of the teflon like stuff underneath. Any way around it, it looks to be one of those jobs you do 3 times if you want to be sure it's perfect. Once I'm done I'll meticulously shopvac/blow out the pistons and everything else that might have gotten any grit. I'm contemplating using something like a rifle cleaner down the oil passageways but i can't decide if this would be good or if I should just let it alone and hope the oil filter traps any particles that might not have gotten vacuumed up. If you google around, this whole process seems to be hugely glossed over in favor of meticulous descriptions of bolt torques and assembly instructions. But seems to me that if it can be worth shaving off 0.001" off your head, it's probably an important step. Most sites say "clean the block deck thoroughly". Nice for a first timer :-P Thanks for everything guys, Mark On Mon, 2007-02-12 at 00:34 -0600, David Thomas wrote: > Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:29:29 -0800 > From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > On Sunday 11 February 2007 10:04 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > > But brake clean and a plastic scraper/scotchbrite is what I'll try > > next. Someone somewhere said stay far away from scotchbrite. I > > think it was vac! > > I 2nd Mark's comment about VAC: Are you sure that's what they said? I > could > see using a very fine high quality wet paper...but even then not with the > block in the car where it cant be cleaned after the sanding. > > As for the scotchbrite...a lot of engine builders will tell you to > stay away > from it and I think its good advice. Those tiny scotchbrite fibers will > scratch every bearing surface they get pumped past if you don't get them all > out...and with the block still in the car that can be very difficult if not > impossible. I certainly have used plenty of scotchbrite over the years on > cleanup during rebuilds, but I don't anymore, at least not on anything that's > not completely removed from the car. For cleaning the deck on iron blocks I > use a good quality spring steel scraper and carb or brake cleaner. Should be > all you need. > > Dave T. > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 7:54 AM
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#2. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Mark Duckworth
Top
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 12:40:22 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question Marco, Just in the tiny gaps at the joint or all around? I assumed the head gasket will seal the timing cover on at least most of the surface. Thanks, Mark On Wed, 2007-02-14 at 09:07 -0800, Marco wrote: > One thing to note - there is a problematic area where the block and timing > chain cover interface. Lots of people end up having oil leaks in that spot > after replacing the headgasket. Especially if they decked the block even a > tiny bit. I'd recommend a bit of sealant there. Not sure what kind, maybe > others can chime in. You probably will be ok since you haven't decked the > block, but never the less it would suck to have an oil leak there. > > I learned the hard way and needed to seal it post assembly with some stuff > permatex makes. > > Marco > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Duckworth [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:14 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > > Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 11:11:47 -0500 > From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > Hello guys, > > I've been chatting around and I think I found some answers on the block deck > cleaning subject. 1. It seems that gasket remover spray is an absolute > necessity. I bought some but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet. A > guy I know who rebuilds engines thought I was nuts when I told him I was > using brake parts cleaner and a plastic scraper. He said I won't get > anywhere without a razor blade (used carefully) and gasket remover. > > Regarding the sand paper, I don't think vac was far off. My personal > opinion is that the block deck should be as "factory" finished as possible, > but there seems to be some opinion that you should do a cross hatch pattern > with a block and low grit number sand paper. A buddy of mine says in his > experience it helps it seal. I asked him "wouldn't they do that from the > factory then?" and he gave me a puzzled look. > > So clearly there's some disagreement on the subject but the path I am taking > will be to use gasket remover and a razor blade to scrape the remaining > nasties away to leave as factory of a finish as possible. The worst part > seems to be an almost invisible film of a teflon like material which is on > the entire block deck. I imagine some people don't realize that this is > there and it's a cause of future failures. I wouldn't have realized it > either except for some of this material came off towards the front. Also > when you use just a plastic scraper on the traces of the red surround > material off, there seems to be a higher level of the teflon like stuff > underneath. Any way around it, it looks to be one of those jobs you do 3 > times if you want to be sure it's perfect. Once I'm done I'll meticulously > shopvac/blow out the pistons and everything else that might have gotten any > grit. > > I'm contemplating using something like a rifle cleaner down the oil > passageways but i can't decide if this would be good or if I should just let > it alone and hope the oil filter traps any particles that might not have > gotten vacuumed up. > > If you google around, this whole process seems to be hugely glossed over in > favor of meticulous descriptions of bolt torques and assembly instructions. > But seems to me that if it can be worth shaving off 0.001" off your head, > it's probably an important step. Most sites say "clean the block deck > thoroughly". Nice for a first timer :-P > > Thanks for everything guys, > > Mark > > > On Mon, 2007-02-12 at 00:34 -0600, David Thomas wrote: > > Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:29:29 -0800 > > From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > > > On Sunday 11 February 2007 10:04 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > > > But brake clean and a plastic scraper/scotchbrite is what I'll try > > > next. Someone somewhere said stay far away from scotchbrite. I > > > think it was vac! > > > > I 2nd Mark's comment about VAC: Are you sure that's what they said? I > > could > > see using a very fine high quality wet paper...but even then not with the > > block in the car where it cant be cleaned after the sanding. > > > > As for the scotchbrite...a lot of engine builders will tell you to > > stay away > > from it and I think its good advice. Those tiny scotchbrite fibers will > > scratch every bearing surface they get pumped past if you don't get them > all > > out...and with the block still in the car that can be very difficult if > not > > impossible. I certainly have used plenty of scotchbrite over the years on > > cleanup during rebuilds, but I don't anymore, at least not on anything > that's > > not completely removed from the car. For cleaning the deck on iron blocks > I > > use a good quality spring steel scraper and carb or brake cleaner. Should > be > > all you need. > > > > Dave T. > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#3. Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Mike DePolo
Top
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 12:53:35 -0500 From: "Mike DePolo" <smiked1@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question In the past with cleanup like this I've used chemical gasket remover, plastic scraper, and wet sandpaper. I haven't had the head off my s50; but on other engines around similar problem areas to the timing chain cover, I've had good luck with Yamabond. It's a flexible sealer sold at Yamaha motorcycle dealers. It's inexpensive and works great. Mike On 2/14/07, Marco <m3driver@iname.com> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 09:07:43 -0800 > From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> > Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > One thing to note - there is a problematic area where the block and timing > chain cover interface. Lots of people end up having oil leaks in that > spot > after replacing the headgasket. Especially if they decked the block even > a > tiny bit. I'd recommend a bit of sealant there. Not sure what kind, > maybe > others can chime in. You probably will be ok since you haven't decked the > block, but never the less it would suck to have an oil leak there. > > I learned the hard way and needed to seal it post assembly with some stuff > permatex makes. > > Marco > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Duckworth [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:14 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > > Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 11:11:47 -0500 > From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > Hello guys, > > I've been chatting around and I think I found some answers on the block > deck > cleaning subject. 1. It seems that gasket remover spray is an absolute > necessity. I bought some but haven't had the opportunity to try it > yet. A > guy I know who rebuilds engines thought I was nuts when I told him I was > using brake parts cleaner and a plastic scraper. He said I won't get > anywhere without a razor blade (used carefully) and gasket remover. > > Regarding the sand paper, I don't think vac was far off. My personal > opinion is that the block deck should be as "factory" finished as > possible, > but there seems to be some opinion that you should do a cross hatch > pattern > with a block and low grit number sand paper. A buddy of mine says in his > experience it helps it seal. I asked him "wouldn't they do that from the > factory then?" and he gave me a puzzled look. > > So clearly there's some disagreement on the subject but the path I am > taking > will be to use gasket remover and a razor blade to scrape the remaining > nasties away to leave as factory of a finish as possible. The worst part > seems to be an almost invisible film of a teflon like material which is on > the entire block deck. I imagine some people don't realize that this is > there and it's a cause of future failures. I wouldn't have realized it > either except for some of this material came off towards the front. Also > when you use just a plastic scraper on the traces of the red surround > material off, there seems to be a higher level of the teflon like stuff > underneath. Any way around it, it looks to be one of those jobs you do 3 > times if you want to be sure it's perfect. Once I'm done I'll > meticulously > shopvac/blow out the pistons and everything else that might have gotten > any > grit. > > I'm contemplating using something like a rifle cleaner down the oil > passageways but i can't decide if this would be good or if I should just > let > it alone and hope the oil filter traps any particles that might not have > gotten vacuumed up. > > If you google around, this whole process seems to be hugely glossed over > in > favor of meticulous descriptions of bolt torques and assembly > instructions. > But seems to me that if it can be worth shaving off 0.001" off your head, > it's probably an important step. Most sites say "clean the block deck > thoroughly". Nice for a first timer :-P > > Thanks for everything guys, > > Mark > > > On Mon, 2007-02-12 at 00:34 -0600, David Thomas wrote: > > Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:29:29 -0800 > > From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > > > On Sunday 11 February 2007 10:04 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > > > But brake clean and a plastic scraper/scotchbrite is what I'll try > > > next. Someone somewhere said stay far away from scotchbrite. I > > > think it was vac! > > > > I 2nd Mark's comment about VAC: Are you sure that's what they said? I > > could > > see using a very fine high quality wet paper...but even then not with > the > > block in the car where it cant be cleaned after the sanding. > > > > As for the scotchbrite...a lot of engine builders will tell you to > > stay away > > from it and I think its good advice. Those tiny scotchbrite fibers will > > scratch every bearing surface they get pumped past if you don't get them > all > > out...and with the block still in the car that can be very difficult if > not > > impossible. I certainly have used plenty of scotchbrite over the years > on > > cleanup during rebuilds, but I don't anymore, at least not on anything > that's > > not completely removed from the car. For cleaning the deck on iron > blocks > I > > use a good quality spring steel scraper and carb or brake cleaner. > Should > be > > all you need. > > > > Dave T. > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 > 7:54 AM > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#4. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question - from Marco
Top
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 09:54:25 -0800 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question My guess is in the gaps. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Mark Duckworth [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:44 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 12:40:22 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question Marco, Just in the tiny gaps at the joint or all around? I assumed the head gasket will seal the timing cover on at least most of the surface. Thanks, Mark On Wed, 2007-02-14 at 09:07 -0800, Marco wrote: > One thing to note - there is a problematic area where the block and > timing chain cover interface. Lots of people end up having oil leaks > in that spot after replacing the headgasket. Especially if they > decked the block even a tiny bit. I'd recommend a bit of sealant > there. Not sure what kind, maybe others can chime in. You probably > will be ok since you haven't decked the block, but never the less it > would suck to have an oil leak there. > > I learned the hard way and needed to seal it post assembly with some > stuff permatex makes. > > Marco > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Duckworth [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:14 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > > Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 11:11:47 -0500 > From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > Hello guys, > > I've been chatting around and I think I found some answers on the > block deck cleaning subject. 1. It seems that gasket remover spray is > an absolute necessity. I bought some but haven't had the opportunity > to try it yet. A guy I know who rebuilds engines thought I was nuts > when I told him I was using brake parts cleaner and a plastic scraper. > He said I won't get anywhere without a razor blade (used carefully) > and gasket remover. > > Regarding the sand paper, I don't think vac was far off. My personal > opinion is that the block deck should be as "factory" finished as > possible, but there seems to be some opinion that you should do a > cross hatch pattern with a block and low grit number sand paper. A > buddy of mine says in his experience it helps it seal. I asked him > "wouldn't they do that from the factory then?" and he gave me a > puzzled look. > > So clearly there's some disagreement on the subject but the path I am > taking will be to use gasket remover and a razor blade to scrape the > remaining nasties away to leave as factory of a finish as possible. > The worst part seems to be an almost invisible film of a teflon like > material which is on the entire block deck. I imagine some people > don't realize that this is there and it's a cause of future failures. > I wouldn't have realized it either except for some of this material > came off towards the front. Also when you use just a plastic scraper > on the traces of the red surround material off, there seems to be a > higher level of the teflon like stuff underneath. Any way around it, > it looks to be one of those jobs you do 3 times if you want to be sure > it's perfect. Once I'm done I'll meticulously shopvac/blow out the > pistons and everything else that might have gotten any grit. > > I'm contemplating using something like a rifle cleaner down the oil > passageways but i can't decide if this would be good or if I should > just let it alone and hope the oil filter traps any particles that > might not have gotten vacuumed up. > > If you google around, this whole process seems to be hugely glossed > over in favor of meticulous descriptions of bolt torques and assembly > instructions. But seems to me that if it can be worth shaving off > 0.001" off your head, it's probably an important step. Most sites say > "clean the block deck thoroughly". Nice for a first timer :-P > > Thanks for everything guys, > > Mark > > > On Mon, 2007-02-12 at 00:34 -0600, David Thomas wrote: > > Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:29:29 -0800 > > From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket - Reassembly Prep Question > > > > On Sunday 11 February 2007 10:04 pm, Mark Duckworth wrote: > > > But brake clean and a plastic scraper/scotchbrite is what I'll try > > > next. Someone somewhere said stay far away from scotchbrite. I > > > think it was vac! > > > > I 2nd Mark's comment about VAC: Are you sure that's what they said? > > I > > could > > see using a very fine high quality wet paper...but even then not with the > > block in the car where it cant be cleaned after the sanding. > > > > As for the scotchbrite...a lot of engine builders will tell you to > > stay away > > from it and I think its good advice. Those tiny scotchbrite fibers will > > scratch every bearing surface they get pumped past if you don't get them > all > > out...and with the block still in the car that can be very difficult > > if > not > > impossible. I certainly have used plenty of scotchbrite over the > > years on > > cleanup during rebuilds, but I don't anymore, at least not on anything > that's > > not completely removed from the car. For cleaning the deck on iron > > blocks > I > > use a good quality spring steel scraper and carb or brake cleaner. > > Should > be > > all you need. > > > > Dave T. > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High > > Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing > > http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. > > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 7:54 AM
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#5. Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from tim ng
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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 13:14:32 -0500 From: "tim ng" <s14realm3@hotmail.com> Subject: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings Jonathan L : where are you? I am in Atlanta, you need the SIR tool for rear wheel bearing, I have the tool. not a bad job, just tedious. done 5 rear wheel bearings for friends and 3 of my own cars. NO- I will not loan it out. did that once and I got the tool back bent from improper useage so now I will only HELP someone with the job with me doing the bearing pulling and install portion. Tim Ng BMWCCA # 36497 95 BUZZNM3 dakar yella 94 325i future track car 92 325ic M-Technic pkg 91 M3 garage queen 89 325ia commuter car 88 M3/2.5 DM race car ------------------ project 90 535ia ------------------ Pace shadow 26 ft enclosed trailer my web page: http://groups.msn.com/M3stuff/pictures
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 10:48:50 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings On Wed, February 14, 2007 10:19 am, tim ng said: > Jonathan L : where are you? I am in Atlanta, He's just a smidge west of you - Southern California. :-) Jim Bassett
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#7. replacing clutch - any tips on the various seals? - from bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com
Top
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 10:53:13 -0800 (PST) From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> Subject: replacing clutch - any tips on the various seals? I'll be replacing my clutch as soon as the parts get here, I've ordered all the related seals and such that make sense to do while you're in there.. Anyone have some slick tips to share, or mistakes to avoid? Thanks, Barrett P.S. Anyone in Houston have a hoist they need tested? I'd be happy to do it for them while swapping in this new clutch :)
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#8. Re: [E36M3] replacing clutch - any tips on the various seals? - from bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 13:43:58 -0800 (PST) From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] replacing clutch - any tips on the various seals? Thanks - I'm already planning on replacing the slave cylinder & trans mounts, hadn't thought of the revers switch or guibo, nor to have spare shift linkage clips. Good suggestions - NAPA also sells external torx gearwrenchs, either singles or a set, I'm betting as infrequently as I'll use them that if I need them they'll do just fine. Did you find you needed multiple shorter extensions to allow for a bit of flexibility? I have one very long 3/8" extension (I can pull the oil drain plug with the ratchet head extending beyond the bottom edge of the car), but I don't think I have enough shorter extensions if I need that little extra bit of flexibility they give you. I'm as concerned as anything about the seals - how far to seat them, any tricks to get them to go in right the first time without messing them up. Lee Piccione <lepiccione@yahoo.com> wrote: since the tranny is out, why not replace: - tranny mount bushings - drive shaft flex disk (guibo) - reverse light switch (mine leaked) - what the heck, clutch slave cylinder - have spare shift linkage clips tips: get a LOT of long 3/8" rachet extensions. seriously, i had about 4' of extensions, it's the only way you can get to the torx bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine block. i also bought a set of torx box wrenches form snap-on that helped too. have fun, lee --- bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com wrote: > Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 10:53:13 -0800 (PST) > From: > Subject: replacing clutch - any tips on the various > seals? > > I'll be replacing my clutch as soon as the parts get > here, I've ordered all the related seals and such > that make sense to do while you're in there.. Anyone > have some slick tips to share, or mistakes to avoid? > > Thanks, > > Barrett > > P.S. Anyone in Houston have a hoist they need > tested? I'd be happy to do it for them while > swapping in this new clutch :) > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss an email again! Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
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#9. Sliding around I thought of Comp Tires ;-) - from Stefano G
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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 16:58:13 -0500 (EST) From: "Stefano G" <stefanoale@excite.com> Subject: Sliding around I thought of Comp Tires ;-) We got some pretty nice weather in the Northeast and on the way to work I made a quick detour and did a 1 min car control clinic in a desolated parking lot (I know 1 min it's to short but I was on my way to work after all). Anyways I thought of the upcoming season and started looking at comp tires mainly for autoX. I like street tires on the track as I get lots of feedback and hte car roll too much with stock suspension. wheels are 17x8 borbets et should be 38-40 hoosier too pricey and wear out too quickly kumho v700 ecsta 245/40/17 do they fit on front? kumho v700 VictoR 225/45/17 too skinny kumho v700 VictoR 245/45/17 too tall? kumho v700 VictoR 255/40/17 rear will need rolling front spacers? kumho v710 245/45/17 too tall? RA-1 235/40/17 too slow for autoX avon tech-r 225/45/17 on sale skinny and slow... What else is out there? Didn't hankook comeout with something? Any feedback on those? Itmay be early but I'm itching.... Stefano '98 M3 with 205/60/17 all seasons to get through the winter. _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings - from Jonathan L.
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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 14:09:14 -0800 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings Jim's right, but thanks for the offer. I don't think meeting half way would even work very well for this one. :P Seriously, though, thank you for the offer. Jonathan >From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> >Reply-To: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings >Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 13:11:58 -0600 > >Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 10:48:50 -0800 (PST) >From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings > >On Wed, February 14, 2007 10:19 am, tim ng said: > > Jonathan L : where are you? I am in Atlanta, > >He's just a smidge west of you - Southern California. > >:-) > >Jim Bassett > > _________________________________________________________________ Search for grocery stores. Find gratitude. Turn a simple search into something more. http://click4thecause.live.com/search/charity/default.aspx?source=hmemtagline_gratitude&FORM=WLMTAG