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#1. Re: replacing clutch - any tips on the various seals? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 08:56:36 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: replacing clutch - any tips on the various seals? on 2/14/07 5:36 PM, <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> wrote: > I'll be replacing my clutch as soon as the parts get here, I've ordered all > the related seals and such that make sense to do while you're in there.. > Anyone have some slick tips to share, or mistakes to avoid? Seems to be my month for recycling old how-to's. I wrote up a long (maybe I need a good editor?) three part clutch R&R report for the Digest in November 2005 which I'm sending to Barrett off-Digest. Ironically in in the middle of installing a Euro 6-speed at this very moment, with the M3 up on jackstands in the garage (and the heater running full bore against the Midwest winter). As a result I'm revisiting the whole procedure myself. Sigh...I'd figured that since the new clutch would last the life of the car I'd never have to do this job again. So much for that theory. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#2. RE: New RTAB part number? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 08:39:59 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: New RTAB part number? I don't think you want those. I cannot believe that is the 'new' part number. That looks like the old 325/95M3 part. I think you want to use these 33-32-2-228-153. Though Realoem.com shows these as having ENDED and replaced by the ones you list. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Connect-Thumbnails/3332222815 3-M69.jpg I was scheduled to do two sets of RTABs this past weekend and one of the guys showed up with parts similar to what you describe. The dealer sold him the ones you speak of, though he does drive a 94 325 which originally came with the split sleeve non-flange type RTAB. I ran both thru http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=26 from http://www.bmw-auto-parts-dealer.com/ And both indicate M3 fitment. KLB -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 13:16:00 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New RTAB part number? At 01:04 PM 1/16/2007, Rich Dorffer wrote: My BMW parts source says there is a new BMW part and/or part number for the RTAB bushing. I think you are understanding this incorrectly, this is just a part number update, this doesn't mean there was any change in the part itself. Yeah, my question wording sucked. I meant to ask is this just a new part number or is it really a new part with a new part number. So, this new part number 33-32-6-770-817 is interesting. It does not have the flange on one side like the old RTAB's and the bushing tin material is actually two separate pieces that looks like they get squeezed together when you install them. I will try to take some pictures tonight. Rex
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: New RTAB part number? - from Rex Tener
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 09:40:42 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: New RTAB part number? At 08:43 AM 2/15/2007, Burgess, Kim L wrote: >I don't think you want those. I cannot believe that is the 'new' part >number. That looks like the old 325/95M3 part. Yes, I agree. >I think you want to use these 33-32-2-228-153. Though Realoem.com shows >these as having ENDED and replaced by the ones you list. >http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Connect-Thumbnails/3332222815 >3-M69.jpg Yep. So, I looked up the RTAB for the E46 M3 on realoem.com: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=33_0840&hg=33&fg=30&hl=24> And it shows the 33-32-2-228-153 ended as of 10/1995 and the 33-32-6-770-817 as the new replacement part number. Rex
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#4. RE: New RTAB part number? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 09:50:57 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: New RTAB part number? ....correction "ended as of 10/2005" That was a while ago. Will the aftermarket replacements of the preferred p/n 'dry-up'? I replaced a set of RTABs on an E46 M3 last summer and was surprised to find the same parts there, like BMW thinks that is a robust 'good' design. There is a bit more aero under the E46 and the ABS sensor (?) wiring follows the RTA forward to the body. At first I could not figure out why the arm would not drop after removing the 'body bracket/cassette' fasteners :o KLB -----Original Message----- From: Rex Tener [rex_tener@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 9:41 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: New RTAB part number? At 08:43 AM 2/15/2007, Burgess, Kim L wrote: >I don't think you want those. I cannot believe that is the 'new' part >number. That looks like the old 325/95M3 part. Yes, I agree. >I think you want to use these 33-32-2-228-153. Though Realoem.com shows >these as having ENDED and replaced by the ones you list. >http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Connect-Thumbnails/333222281 53-M69.jpg Yep. So, I looked up the RTAB for the E46 M3 on realoem.com: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=33 _0840&hg=33&fg=30&hl=24> And it shows the 33-32-2-228-153 ended as of 10/1995 and the 33-32-6-770-817 as the new replacement part number. Rex
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#5. rear ball joints - from Adam Lazur
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 23:18:37 -0800 From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> Subject: rear ball joints I'm going to replace the rear ball joints on my '95 M3. My car has 2 ball joints and 2 rubber bushings. Apparently going with 4 ball joints for the replacement is the way to go. Are there any other things to replace "while I'm in there"? -- Adam Lazur
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#6. where's my extra negative camber? - from Adam Lazur
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 23:28:14 -0800 From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> Subject: where's my extra negative camber? A few months back I replaced the worn stock suspension on my '95 M3 with TC Kline SA Coilovers and Vorshlag camber plates. After the suspension upgrade, I ended up with -2.5* of camber up front when the plates are at max neg camber. I'd like to have more neg camber to play with. The height is about as low as it can go. I set the rear super low, adjusted the front to match the amount of rake Pete at TCK recommended. Camber plates are also max positive caster, which is the default setting on the plates. Does anyone else have the same setup? If so, are you getting similar max camber numbers or is my car a super freak? -- Adam Lazur
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#7. Replaced Pulleys - from Kent Shephard
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 01:05:47 -0800 From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Replaced Pulleys Hi, I had a pulley go bad yesterday. (Top non adjustable) My daughter said "Daddy I smell something burning." Was a belt on a seized pulley. Replaced all with belts in about an hour. Pretty easy job. Should have done the pulleys when I did the radiator. Kent Shephard kents@kshephard.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] rear ball joints - from Mike DePolo
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 10:32:33 -0500 From: "Mike DePolo" <smiked1@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear ball joints I'm about to do the same thing. Is it possible to do this without the special tool? The cheapest I could find it is on ebay for $145. The part number I found for the tool is BMW136-311 at Technictool. It looks like if this is attempted with a generic ball joint press, and it wasn't the exact size, the ball joints could easily be damaged. Mike On 2/16/07, Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> wrote: > > Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 23:18:37 -0800 > From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> > Subject: rear ball joints > > I'm going to replace the rear ball joints on my '95 M3. My car has > 2 ball joints and 2 rubber bushings. Apparently going with 4 ball joints > for the replacement is the way to go. > > Are there any other things to replace "while I'm in there"? > > -- > Adam Lazur > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] where's my extra negative camber? - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 10:53:59 -0500 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] where's my extra negative camber? On 2/16/07, Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> wrote: > Does anyone else have the same setup? If so, are you getting similar max > camber numbers or is my car a super freak? I have the same setup, I think my minimum camber setting is what you have for max. :-) Why do you have the plates setup for max positive caster? I have them set in the middle (I think) so I have stockish caster numbers. I won't even set mine for max negative camber as that would be beyond 4 degrees negative and I don't have track tires that need that much neg. camber. I'll send you a pic of my car so you can judge if it is lower than yours (which I suspect it is). Carlos 98 M3 89 325i Adam's ex-E30 :-)
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#10. Re: [E36M3] rear ball joints - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 11:11:41 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear ball joints Mike, I used the Technic Tool. It was very easy. Like you said though, if you used something that wasn't the right size, it may not work right. But it's just a normal press tool, so as long as you had something the right size, it should work fine. Chris ---- Mike DePolo <smiked1@gmail.com> wrote: > I'm about to do the same thing. Is it possible to do this without the > special tool? The cheapest I could find it is on ebay for $145. The part > number I found for the tool is BMW136-311 at Technictool. It looks like if > this is attempted with a generic ball joint press, and it wasn't the exact > size, the ball joints could easily be damaged. > > > Mike