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#1. Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain - from John Firestone
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 19:10:13 +0100 (CET) From: John Firestone <johnf@freenet.de> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Parasitic Drain On Sun, 11 Feb 2007, Jim Bassett wrote: > To really localize the problem, you'll want to look > for excess current draw in each circuit using an ammeter. The problem with > that is that an ammeter needs to be inline with the circuit under test > (rather than across it like a test light or voltmeter). This can be > difficult, if not impossible. For this reason, a lot of people resort to a hall-effect, clamp on DC current probe / ammeter. You can start by clipping it around the battery cable, to verify you have a problem, then around the downstream wire bundles and wires, to follow the drain back to its source (or, rather, sink). You can use the same gizmo around the battery cable to also measure how well the alternator is charging the battery. -John '96 318is
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#2. Re: rear ball joints - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 13:51:37 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: rear ball joints on 2/16/07 11:23 AM, "Mike DePolo" <smiked1@gmail.com> wrote: > I'm about to do the same thing. Is it possible to do this without the > special tool? The cheapest I could find it is on ebay for $145. The part > number I found for the tool is BMW136-311 at Technictool. It looks like if > this is attempted with a generic ball joint press, and it wasn't the exact > size, the ball joints could easily be damaged. I did them using the 12mm force screw from my VPD RTAB puller plus an assortment of cheap big-ass sockets as pusher/receiver. I keep these around for this exact purpose. You have to be careful not to tear the ball joint's protective rubber boots. There's quite a lot of force involved to get the old one broken free, so I wouldn't advise using a force screw smaller than 7/16" or preferably 12mm, and it should be high strength steel of some kind. Generic threaded rod from the hardware store certainly isn't going to do the job. That's why the force screw from another puller is a good option. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#3. Re: rear ball joints - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 14:28:16 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: rear ball joints on 2/16/07 2:14 PM, Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> wrote: > Victory Product Design has a ball joint tool for $52. For that small money it'd be nuts to improvise. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: rear ball joints - from David Thomas
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 12:03:32 -0800 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: rear ball joints On Friday 16 February 2007 9:54:10 am Adam Lazur wrote: > Victory product design has a ball joint tool for $52. I usually just make my own 'special' tools...but those guys have some nice looking tools at fair prices. Anyone ever use them? Quality OK? http://www.victoryproductdesign.com/tools_main.htm Dave T.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: rear ball joints - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 12:08:19 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: rear ball joints On Fri, February 16, 2007 12:04 pm, David Thomas said: > I usually just make my own 'special' tools...but those guys have some nice > looking tools at fair prices. Anyone ever use them? Quality OK? > > http://www.victoryproductdesign.com/tools_main.htm I've got their pump wrench - I never had luck with the "smack-the-wrench-with-a-hammer" method to loosen the fan from the water pump :-) Very simple tool, but it works. And with 2 E36s to care for, it makes sense for me. Jim Bassett
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#6. RE: Rear Ball Joints - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 12:22:41 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Rear Ball Joints Realoem.com can be your friend. There are four ball joints per side - two per control arm. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=33_ 1004&hg=33&fg=30 -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 08:53:07 -0800 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] rear ball joints Ok I'm stumped. Granted it's been a while since I was under the rear of my car, but where are there ball joints in the E36 rear suspension? Marco
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#7. RE: Rear Ball Joints - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 12:26:06 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Rear Ball Joints As I recall 95M3s had a rubber isolated BJ in the outer lower position. The later Ms had all metallic BJs. I think I recall hearing that the later MBJs will replace the rubber isolated ones of the 95M3. On 2/16/07, Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> wrote: > > Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 23:18:37 -0800 > From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> > Subject: rear ball joints > > I'm going to replace the rear ball joints on my '95 M3. My car has 2 > ball joints and 2 rubber bushings. Apparently going with 4 ball joints > for the replacement is the way to go. > > Are there any other things to replace "while I'm in there"? > > -- > Adam Lazur
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: rear ball joints - from Mike DePolo
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 15:32:56 -0500 From: "Mike DePolo" <smiked1@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: rear ball joints Nice, that's a fair price. I'm definitely ordering one. I'm very tempted to get their valve spring tool and do my retainers the easy way. Then, with my luck, the head gasket will fail shortly after that! Mike On 2/16/07, Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > > Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 14:28:16 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: rear ball joints > > on 2/16/07 2:14 PM, Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> wrote: > > > Victory Product Design has a ball joint tool for $52. > > For that small money it'd be nuts to improvise. > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#9. Re: rear ball joints - from Greg Gantt
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 15:59:54 -0500 From: Greg Gantt <ggantt@gantt-consulting.com> Subject: Re: rear ball joints I did rear ball joints last year on my '95, replacing the two outboard lower control arm bushings with ball joints like the 96+ setup. To remove and install the ball joints, I fabricated a tool to work as a drift, using a 6" length of 1.75" OD roll cage pipe with a pair of thick washers welded to one end so I could get at it with a hammer. It worked great. As for while you are in there work, it all depends whether your rear subframe is out or not and if your RTABs are fresh. I had clunking noises from my rear that were fixed using the Powerflex subframe bushings and factory differential bushings after replacing the RTABs. I've found a torch gets the old subframe bushings out in no time and the Powerflex units install without needing a press like you will for the diff busings. Hope that helps. Greg On Friday 16 February 2007 11:23, E36M3 wrote: > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 23:18:37 -0800 > From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> > Subject: rear ball joints > > I'm going to replace the rear ball joints on my '95 M3. My car has > 2 ball joints and 2 rubber bushings. Apparently going with 4 ball joints > for the replacement is the way to go. > > Are there any other things to replace "while I'm in there"? > > -- > Adam Lazur
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#10. Tow Hooks - from Resener, Kurt
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 16:33:00 -0600 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: Tow Hooks Does anyone know where I can get a set of the hooks that go into the chassis at the hockey puck area for tying down our cars while towing? I can't remember where I got my last set... Kurt J. Resener DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you.