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#1. Re: [E36M3] fooling airbag light w/resistor - from Gary
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 07:51:24 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] fooling airbag light w/resistor I am. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: <docwyte@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 11:47 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] fooling airbag light w/resistor > Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 05:38:51 +0000 > From: docwyte@comcast.net > Subject: Re: [E36M3] fooling airbag light w/resistor > > I've got a write-up on how to do this if anyone is interested... > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Just finished clutch repair, now electrical system - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 10:27:38 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Just finished clutch repair, now electrical system won't charge? On Mon, 2007-02-26 at 07:07 -0600, bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 05:02:05 -0800 (PST) > From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> > Subject: Just finished clutch repair, now electrical system won't charge? > > I was all ready to congratulate myself on a difficult job well done - I finally have the clutch done and everything back together, but the car wouldn't start, battery was dead. So out come the jumper cables, I'd disconnected the battery partway into the project (before I was working up around the starter) so at this point I was thinking it just must have run down with the trunk light over a couple of days or something. Jumper cables installed, car starts up, but was running rough - really worried me, thinking it was something misinstalled, but running things through my mind there really isn't anything that will let you misinstall it. I know now it was running rough because it didn't have good electrical, evidently the electrical system isn't charging. Car runs fine with jumper cables, slowly dies without. > > I think the electrical system dying at exactly the same time I did the clutch is too big to be just coincidental, but I can't think of anything that I did that would have any effect on the electrical system. I disconnected the battery, unplugged the O2 sensor - I didn't mess with the starter other than unbolting it. I took the fan off the front of the engine so it could swing down without hitting the radiator, and replaced the flex ducting to the alternator that had gotten brittle from heat and disentegrated - if anything, that should be a plus in the electrical system health.. I jumped the car, so there's a small chance an electrical surge did something nasty, but that's a pretty big fluke that of the times I've jumped the car (or jumped someone else more often) that this one when I've been doing all this other stuff would be the one to kill it. > > My one big concern (and only thing I can think of) is that maybe something between the back of the engine and the firewall was damaged in the process of swinging the engine down to get the transmission in and out of the car. Is anyone familiar with what all is mounted back there, or have any other suggestions as to what might have happened? > > I'm in a rental car until I have this fixed, so getting it resolved has some urgency to it - plus, I'm driving a Saturn. Please, help me figure out what went wrong and save me from that POS!!! I've had an issue similar to this. The starter's positive line is exposed very much so to the "elements". In doing my head gasket I have to keep this in mind because I'm leaving my electrical system connected (I couldn't do it without some music and the car stereo is the only source), I just make sure not to turn the key to On because that will surely tick off the ECM having all those sensors missing. You can certainly do such a job without disconnecting the battery if you're careful. However, in years past I was not as careful and I forgot to disconnect the battery when replacing the alternator on one of my other cars. I grounded out the positive line of the alternator. It gave a little spark but nothing else so I thought I was fine. Put in the new alternator and the car wouldn't start. Everything else was fine, the system had power but not power to the starter. In this car there was fusible links all along the main power line which goes from alternator to starter to battery. Now the BMW is different but I'd say the most likely culprit is that one of these fusible links is blown. There's an awful lot of "ground" near the starter's hot line and it looks like it'd be really easy to screw the pooch on it. I'd get out the volt meter and start checking voltages. On the back of the alternator should be a larger power line. Make sure that has 12V going to it, because if it doesn't, no way it'll start the car. Now you also said you disconnected power before working up there so my feeling in this case is that loosening, cleaning and retightening the main power connection at the starter could cure the issue. Check grounds too, which could have been disturbed when you tilted the engine. Check your fuses in the fuse box too. It's possible that the surge from the jumper cables blew a fuse, which I think there might be one for alternator. HTH, Mark (electrical system semi-guru thanks to my 3000gt that had no lights, abs, and a terrible running engine when I got it)
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#3. In need of a S52-compatible head - from Peter Loron
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 09:44:02 -0800 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: In need of a S52-compatible head I finally was able to get the head off my 98 M3 last night had have some good news and bad news. Good news is that the oil and coolant were clean, and all of the mechanical bits I've seen (cams, VANOS sprockets, valves, pistons, cylinder walls, etc) all look new. The head gasket, as far as I can tell, was in great shape. The bad news is that means the problem I've got (coolant leaking into the #3 plug well) points to a cracked head. :-( Soooo, anybody have a S52-compatible head for sale? The head is at the machinists, and they may find something that can be fixed, but I'm preparing for needing a new one. I'm pretty sure all of the guts (based on the complete lack of visible wear on the cams) can be simply switched over to a new bare head. -Pete
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#4. Re: [E36M3] In need of a S52-compatible head - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 15:27:08 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] In need of a S52-compatible head On Mon, 2007-02-26 at 11:47 -0600, Peter Loron wrote: > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 09:44:02 -0800 > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > Subject: In need of a S52-compatible head > > I finally was able to get the head off my 98 M3 last night had have some > good news and bad news. Good news is that the oil and coolant were clean, > and all of the mechanical bits I've seen (cams, VANOS sprockets, valves, > pistons, cylinder walls, etc) all look new. The head gasket, as far as I can > tell, was in great shape. > > The bad news is that means the problem I've got (coolant leaking into the #3 > plug well) points to a cracked head. :-( > > Soooo, anybody have a S52-compatible head for sale? > > The head is at the machinists, and they may find something that can be > fixed, but I'm preparing for needing a new one. I'm pretty sure all of the > guts (based on the complete lack of visible wear on the cams) can be simply > switched over to a new bare head. Pete, What makes you think they can't fix it? I thought they could take care of stuff like that. And that should be cheaper than a new head. If you're looking for a new reconditioned head, VAC has them for $899 and they'll probably charge you an extra $200-$300 if they deem your core unusable. I got lucky in that they said my head was in basically perfect condition. They also do the stage 1 performance upgrade for $1249, but not advised unless your bottom end is top notch. Thanks, Mark
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#5. Re: [E36M3] In need of a S52-compatible head - from Peter Loron
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 14:06:15 -0800 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] In need of a S52-compatible head On 2/26/07, Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > On Mon, 2007-02-26 at 11:47 -0600, Peter Loron wrote: > > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 09:44:02 -0800 > > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > > Subject: In need of a S52-compatible head > > > > I finally was able to get the head off my 98 M3 last night had have some > > good news and bad news. Good news is that the oil and coolant were > clean, > > and all of the mechanical bits I've seen (cams, VANOS sprockets, valves, > > pistons, cylinder walls, etc) all look new. The head gasket, as far as I > can > > tell, was in great shape. > > > > The bad news is that means the problem I've got (coolant leaking into > the #3 > > plug well) points to a cracked head. :-( > > > > Soooo, anybody have a S52-compatible head for sale? > > > > The head is at the machinists, and they may find something that can be > > fixed, but I'm preparing for needing a new one. I'm pretty sure all of > the > > guts (based on the complete lack of visible wear on the cams) can be > simply > > switched over to a new bare head. > > Pete, > > What makes you think they can't fix it? I thought they could take care > of stuff like that. And that should be cheaper than a new head. If > you're looking for a new reconditioned head, VAC has them for $899 and > they'll probably charge you an extra $200-$300 if they deem your core > unusable. I got lucky in that they said my head was in basically > perfect condition. They also do the stage 1 performance upgrade for > $1249, but not advised unless your bottom end is top notch. > > Thanks, > Mark Actually I just heard from the shop. They did find a crack in the #3 plug well during the pressure test, and he thinks his welder can fix it. It's off to the welder today, and we'll see how that plays out. Thanks for the tip on VAC. I'll give them a ring if fixing the existing head doesn't work. My initial thought about not being able to repair it was based on a conversation with a different head specialist who was leerry of welding problems like that since they often indicate other similar issues in the future will crop up. Also if the problem reoccurs, it puts him in a difficult position with the customer...who's fault is it? I'm also mildly suprised they can get down to the bottom of the well to put in a good weld, but that apparently is just ignorance on my part. :-) -Pete
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#6. Re: [E36M3] In need of a S52-compatible head - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 18:14:32 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] In need of a S52-compatible head On Mon, 2007-02-26 at 14:06 -0800, Peter Loron wrote: > On 2/26/07, Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> wrote: > On Mon, 2007-02-26 at 11:47 -0600, Peter Loron wrote: > > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 09:44:02 -0800 > > From: "Peter Loron" < peterloron@gmail.com> > > Subject: In need of a S52-compatible head > > > > I finally was able to get the head off my 98 M3 last night > had have some > > good news and bad news. Good news is that the oil and > coolant were clean, > > and all of the mechanical bits I've seen (cams, VANOS > sprockets, valves, > > pistons, cylinder walls, etc) all look new. The head gasket, > as far as I can > > tell, was in great shape. > > > > The bad news is that means the problem I've got (coolant > leaking into the #3 > > plug well) points to a cracked head. :-( > > > > Soooo, anybody have a S52-compatible head for sale? > > > > The head is at the machinists, and they may find something > that can be > > fixed, but I'm preparing for needing a new one. I'm pretty > sure all of the > > guts (based on the complete lack of visible wear on the > cams) can be simply > > switched over to a new bare head. > > Pete, > > What makes you think they can't fix it? I thought they could > take care > of stuff like that. And that should be cheaper than a new > head. If > you're looking for a new reconditioned head, VAC has them for > $899 and > they'll probably charge you an extra $200-$300 if they deem > your core > unusable. I got lucky in that they said my head was in > basically > perfect condition. They also do the stage 1 performance > upgrade for > $1249, but not advised unless your bottom end is top notch. > > Thanks, > Mark > > > Actually I just heard from the shop. They did find a crack in the #3 > plug well during the pressure test, and he thinks his welder can fix > it. It's off to the welder today, and we'll see how that plays out. > Thanks for the tip on VAC. I'll give them a ring if fixing the > existing head doesn't work. > > My initial thought about not being able to repair it was based on a > conversation with a different head specialist who was leerry of > welding problems like that since they often indicate other similar > issues in the future will crop up. Also if the problem reoccurs, it > puts him in a difficult position with the customer...who's fault is > it? I'm also mildly suprised they can get down to the bottom of the > well to put in a good weld, but that apparently is just ignorance on > my part. :-) > > -Pete > After I sent that I was actually thinking about the logistics of welding in the middle of a spark plug well :-P. Better them than me. Thanks, Mark
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#7. RE: What else to change if I'm doing the head gasket? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 08:58:16 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: What else to change if I'm doing the head gasket? Mark - Perhaps Suzy can host this write-up in it's complete form @ BMW-M.net. Perhaps you could collaborate, as the rest of us are approaching head gasket life soon. KLB -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 18:11:37 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What else to change if I'm doing the head gasket? On Sun, 2007-02-18 at 16:43 -0600, Peter Loron wrote: > Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2007 14:40:20 -0800 > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > Subject: What else to change if I'm doing the head gasket? > > Ok, so I'm finally getting around to pulling the head on my 98 M3. ~85Kmi. > AFAIK, the previous owner had the radiator, and the thermostat + > housing and waterpump changed about 30Kmi ago. I don't know about any > of the coolant hoses. Time to do the cooling system again? > > Can anybody point to a concise list of parts (and part numbers!) that > "should" be one at this juncture? > > Thanks! > > -Pete Pete, I'm also posting this to the list for everyone. This is the list of parts I changed on a 180K 1996. I'm currently waiting on my last run of parts and expect to finish the car this weekend. Fingers crossed. Strictly speaking my inexperienced belief is that a high mileage head job should include the following: All radiator hoses and radiator, tensioners (2) and pulleys (2) accessory belts, water pump, bmw coolant, enough oil for 2 changes, crankshaft position sensor, knock sensors, camshaft position sensor, bolt timing chain tensioners, vanos oil line and crush washers, vacuum hoses, head gasket set, head bolt set, exhaust bolt/nut set, radiator expansion tank, The tiny coolant hoses for the dual zone climate control are insane, one of them is over $100. I'm replacing anyway. I will NOT have done this work just to have some little cooling system component fail. The only thing allowed to fail at this point is a heater core or the plastic nipples on the valve. Regarding tools I'd be happy to let you borrow mine for a month or two for a small fee. I'm thinking $50, so over the course of the year I can make back the money I spent and save other people money. I think another part of the deal will be if you screw up and need the tools again, re-rental is free. The total cost of all the tools is $500+ for OEM or $200+ for SIR tools and other discount. The tools you need are: The cam locator bracket that holds the cams in place SIR tools Block TDC pin SIR Tools (this piece of garbage needed to be shaved down with the dremel to fit into the hole. Could be because the hole had some rust on it. Nightmare and a half) The exhaust sprocket turning tool because it's spring loaded (oem, fits great) Dummy primary chain tensioner (dunno if it works yet, but OEM) fan wrench and holder (oem) head bolt socket (OEM - Do NOT try anything but OEM for this one) You also need the $20 Torx E-* socket set from pep boys or sears hardware. Annoying :-P 07 11 9 963 130 Oil Gasket - 12 x 15.5 Al 11 12 1 717 432 Flange (not part of head gasket set) 11 12 1 721 938 Head bolt set - OEM Febi/Bilstein 11 28 1 717 188 Accessory Belt Tensioner - OEM Febi/Bilstein 11 28 1 717 210 Accessory Belt Tensioner - OEM Febi/Bilstein 11 28 1 730 532 Protective Ring for Pulley 11 28 1 748 131 Accessory Belt Pulley - A/C & Serpentine qty 2 11 36 1 705 532 Oil Line - OEM Cohliline 11 51 7 527 799 Water Pump Metal Impeller - OEM Graf 11 53 1 740 649 Expansion Tank Hose 12 14 1 703 221 Camshaft Position Sensor 13 54 1 703 865 Radiator Hose - OEM Elaplast 13 54 1 703 945 Radiator Hose 17 11 1 723 520 Radiator Expansion Tank - OEM Behr 17 11 1 723 521 Radiator Hose 32 41 1 093 596 VANOS Gasket - 14 x 20 Al qty 4 (crush washers for oil line) 83 30 0 491 025 Chain Tensioner - Used to tension primary chain 83 30 0 491 047 32mm fan wrench 83 30 0 491 048 fan holder 83 30 0 491 062 VANOS Chain Tensioner - Used to remove the VANOS 88 88 6 112 250 Head Bolt Socket - E12 64 21 1 394 293 Hose that goes to the Heater Core 11129069861 Head gasket set - OEM Victor Reinz 64218391239 dual zone climate control heater hose 64218391240 dual zone climate control heater Hose > part #'s 64218391239 & 64218391240 are erroneously shown in the ETK as two of the hoses attaching to the heater core at the firewall. > The correct part #s are 64-21-1-394-291 and 64-21-1-394-292 to go along with 64-21-1-394-293. > If you look at other E36s the ETK shows the correct part numbers - only the M3 is wrong. 11531703844 heater return hose? 12139067831 spark plug connector - OEM Bremi qty 6 12141703276 knock sensor - OEM VDO 12141709616 crankshaft position sensor in conjunction with adapter lead 12514592703 (see SI 122701000). 07129902630 exhaust manifold nuts (think these are 1pk, qty 24) 11121744057 exhaust manifold studs qty 24 51731257971 vacuum hose 51731259951 vacuum hose 11731435335 vacuum hose (2) 11731714217 vacuum hose 12141748398 o ring for crankshaft position sensor 11427833769 oil filter kit - OEM Mahle (qty 2) 07589062376 3-Bond 1209 RTV sealant 82141467704 BMW Coolant (Gallon) (qty 3) I plan to do a full web based writeup with parts lists because several steps had quite a few gotchas. Like that you can't take the last 2 head bolts out with the cam locator on, but I was afraid to take it off thinking the cams would spin. Logically I thought about it and realized the only place a valve would go is closed so I risked it, but when I pulled it the cams didn't turn at all and this is what you're supposed to do. There's plenty of other gotchas that I wouldn't have gotten through if it wasn't for this group. Thanks again guys, Mark
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#8. Pressure Testing - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 20:28:45 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Pressure Testing Hey guys, Tomorrow is judgment day for my head gasket job and a thought occurred to me. Rather than starting the car and potentially finding cooling system leaks I was wondering if before the initial start I run any risks of breaking anything by doing a cooling system pressure test at 15psi? I don't know if the head gasket does anything when it first warms up so I figured it's worth asking before having it ooze coolant or something. I figure if I do this than I only have one major (engine ruining) concern to worry about, the timing. Thanks, Mark
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Pressure Testing - from Kent Shephard
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Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 17:41:06 -0800 From: Kent Shephard <Kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Pressure Testing Hi, I've done it on other cars. I can't see how it could hurt. 15psi is a lower than the other side. Kent Shephard kents@kshephard.com On Feb 27, 2007, at 5:37 PM, Mark Duckworth wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 20:28:45 -0500 > From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Pressure Testing > > Hey guys, > > Tomorrow is judgment day for my head gasket job and a thought occurred > to me. Rather than starting the car and potentially finding cooling > system leaks I was wondering if before the initial start I run any > risks > of breaking anything by doing a cooling system pressure test at 15psi? > I don't know if the head gasket does anything when it first warms > up so > I figured it's worth asking before having it ooze coolant or > something. > I figure if I do this than I only have one major (engine ruining) > concern to worry about, the timing. > > Thanks, > Mark > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Rear Headrests - the bane of a quiet ride... - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 17:44:39 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear Headrests - the bane of a quiet ride... Hey, This is starting to drive me crazy. My rear headrests rattle constantly. I'd love to remove them, but the bentley manual doesn't seem to have anything useful to say about it. They don't do my kids any good - they're both too short to have them serve a purpose. And they get in the way of me seeing out the back window. Does anyone know of a way to get the whole unit out, posts and all, without completely pulling the interior of the car apart? Thanks -jeff *98 ///Sedan, almost as noisy as the 95///trackdog ____________________________________________________________________________________ Finding fabulous fares is fun.. Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains. http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097