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#1. Re: [E36M3] BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 09:57:35 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL On Fri, March 2, 2007 6:57 am, Shane Kleinpeter said: > I'm at my wits end. I'm a pretty anal guy and this is > driving me up the wall. The brake light switch is > relatively new and functioning properly. The bulbs > are new (Sylvania, silver bottoms) and the brake > lights are working fine. How do I stop the insanity? Hmm, I had a slightly similar issue where I was getting a "Bulb failure" warning every so often, even though the particular light worked fine. The contact area for the holder on the light assembly had "worn", thus creating a high-resistance indication (i.e. "bulb burnt out"). What I ended up doing last weekend was flowing some solder over the "burned" area. So far, so good. I also used a bit of emery cloth to polish the holder contacts. So, maybe clean (or replace) the holder contacts. Check the assembly for any discoloration, and either polish or "re-coat" with some solder. Jim Bassett
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Quick battery question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 10:00:08 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Quick battery question On Fri, March 2, 2007 5:47 am, Matt Weimer said: > My E36 is not in my possession at this point so measurements are not > possible. Ahhh, gotcha. Thanks. > I will just be patient and wait until I can do some firsthand > investigating. I've got to load up the race car for this weekend's driver's school. If I remember <grin>, I'll see if I can't measure the distance between hold-down screw holes tonight. (The race car is a lot easier to check than the M3 - nothing at all to remove :-)) Jim Bassett
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#3. Re: [E36M3] BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL - from R Bruce Shafer
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Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 14:06:10 -0500 From: R.Bruce Shafer <mzealot@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL I have the exact same problem, so I'd be real interested too! '98 M3/4 > > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > Date: 2007/03/02 Fri AM 09:57:17 EST > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL > > Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 06:48:15 -0800 (PST) > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > Subject: BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL > > I'm at my wits end. I'm a pretty anal guy and this is > driving me up the wall. The brake light switch is > relatively new and functioning properly. The bulbs > are new (Sylvania, silver bottoms) and the brake > lights are working fine. How do I stop the insanity? > The scrolling message is very distracting and for all > intents and purposes relegates the OBC to a torture > device. > > Do I need to replace the tail light assemblies? The > bulb holders? At this point I'm willing to do > anything, I just need the message to go away. My car > is stock...no aftermarket. Thanks, > > > > Shane Kleinpeter > http://www.justracing.com/homepage/sak335 > '96 M3 > '94 325i #76 ITS / JP > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now. > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#4. Re: where's my extra negative camber? - from Adam Lazur
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Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 13:45:48 -0800 From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> Subject: Re: where's my extra negative camber? Jim Bassett (jim@jimbassett.com) said: > On Thu, March 1, 2007 10:27 pm, Adam Lazur said: > > Thanks for the input everyone, I've finally found the extra negative > > camber I was looking for :) > > Just don't go trying to show it off to your instructor this weekend. Ha! I usually find a proper level of instructor comfort by getting them to try to use the imaginary brake pedal in the passenger footwell, then I dial it back a notch ;) -- Adam Lazur
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#5. Re: [E36M3] BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2007 15:45:11 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL On Fri, 2007-03-02 at 08:57 -0600, Shane Kleinpeter wrote: > Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 06:48:15 -0800 (PST) > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > Subject: BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE - SEE OWNER'S MANUAL > > I'm at my wits end. I'm a pretty anal guy and this is > driving me up the wall. The brake light switch is > relatively new and functioning properly. The bulbs > are new (Sylvania, silver bottoms) and the brake > lights are working fine. How do I stop the insanity? > The scrolling message is very distracting and for all > intents and purposes relegates the OBC to a torture > device. > > Do I need to replace the tail light assemblies? The > bulb holders? At this point I'm willing to do > anything, I just need the message to go away. My car > is stock...no aftermarket. Thanks, Clean the connectors. Use a pencil eraser to clean corrosion followed by a q-tip soaked with rubbing alcohol to clean debris. Should restore the connection and all should work well. Did you replace the 3rd brake light too? What about spoiler brake lights. These are all on the same circuit so all could be causing the difference in voltage drop/current the OBC is not expecting. This is brake light failure versus circuit failure meaning it's likely not the pedal sensor. As the bulbs get older they put out less light, which I believe causes them to use less energy, but not sure, so every bulb on the circuit matters since it's probably a sum total it's looking for. Thanks, Mark
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#6. brake line size - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 19:45:32 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: brake line size Hey gang, Just a quick q for you all: what size flare nut wrench is used for the flexible brake lines? I'm remembering 8mm or 9mm for some reason, although I also am remembering 11mm. I have no flare nut wrenches, I need to pick up a set, hence my reason for asking. Looking at the UUC brake lines, it looks like I'm going to need various sizes. Thanks, Brian build 8/95
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#7. Head Gasket Success? - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 00:03:44 -0500 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Head Gasket Success? Hey guys, I tightened down the oil filter housing, installed the new bosch +2 plugs, ignition boots and air injection, filled it with oil and coolant. It took almost 2 gallons but I don't think it's full yet. I pulled the fuel fuse and cranked it for 10 seconds in 3.5 second intervals. It cranked. No weird errors showing on the OBC. Hrmm. Could I really have got it right on the first try? No adjustments? I called my fiance out for the magic moment. I replaced the fuel fuse, turned the ignition off and on twice to get fuel flowing, turned to start and after maybe a second the engine roared to life making the most awful smells and tapping sounds that quickly subsided. Assuming that tapping was just oil starved cams which is what it sounded like for sure it seems that... tentatively, I really hope, success. We'll see after I manage to find my bleeder screw anyway :-P Question though. Would a bit of tapping for a couple seconds at first startup be normal as the oil gets flowing? Thanks, Mark
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#8. Driveshaft refresh - from Mdgreer
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Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 00:07:31 -0500 (EST) From: "Mdgreer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Driveshaft refresh If you've done business with Driveshaft Specialists [www.thrashdriveshaft.com] or have an alternative recommendation, please let me know. I get a driveline shudder in 2nd gear under accelleration and [if it's not motor mounts] this is the next item on my hit list.-Mark 97 e36 sedan _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#9. RE: [E36M3] RE: Kumho Escsta ASX Opinions - from Tripp Racioppi
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Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 10:29:29 -0800 (PST) From: Tripp Racioppi <r3_m3@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Kumho Escsta ASX Opinions Matthew, Thanks for the response. 42 pounds, eh? I'll try it; as I said before, I've started running 35 all around and that seems to be pretty good. I have a set of Yokohama ES100s I ran in the summer and they were great, except they almost killed me a couple of times when we had snow flurries. That's why I went to All-Seasons (Potenzas) on another set of wheels and used the staggard set on the track. I've retired the M3 from track duty, so I may put Blizzaks on the old wheels... we don't get much snow here in VA, but when we do get it, it only stays a few days...it just hadn't seemed worth it to have a dedicated set of snow tires. Not like living in Alaska. Thanks again for the info....r3 Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> wrote: I have been running ASX's for several years now. Staggered setup on factory 17 inch wheels. Some observations: This is NOT a snow tire. Works great in cold wet conditions, but you do not want to rely on this tire for "winter" driving unless you live pretty far south. But... This tire works very well in below freezing dry conditions. If you want a winter tire, get Blizzaks and don't drive them during the transitional periods before and after winter. That's where the ASX's shine. You give up warm weather dry road grip for cold wet weather grip. Having said that, the tires are still quite good in summer and are very predictable, so you get plenty of warning before they let go. If you are looking for a max performance summer tire, go elsewhere. If you are looking for a versatile everyday driving tire, these fit the bill. I run mine at 42 PSI. I seem to get better grip, and it stabilizes the "softish" sidewall. The tires wear better than other summer tires I've tried, but that stands to reason since they aren't true ultra-high performance summer tires. What you give up in grip, you gain in wear characteristics. I've managed six months on a set of rears. That's double what I've received from any other tire (except winter tires of course). I'll buy them again. This is the perfect tire for me during spring and fall conditions. Blizzaks in winter, and R compounds during the peak of summer.. Can't get much better than that. It helps to have three sets of wheels. :) Matthew (Alaska) '98 M3/4 w/140K -----Original Message----- From: Tripp Racioppi [mailto:r3_m3@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 10:07 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE: Kumho Escsta ASX Opinions Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2007 11:06:02 -0800 (PST) From: Tripp Racioppi Subject: RE: Kumho Escsta ASX Opinions I too, just mounted the Kumho's on a stock, staggered set up. They have been, as you say, good in wet weather and dry. Have not had a chance to experience their performance in winter driving, but one of the reasons I also went with an all-season tire. One interesting note is that when I first got them, I inflated them according to the pressure settings listed on the door frame decal (30 psi front, 32 psi rear, I think). They always looked like they were too low on pressure, especially the front). When I engaged in a "spirited" acceleration, I got a feeling as though the sidewalls were "wringling," almost a shudder. I talked to several people and they suggested using equal pressure all around and increase the pressure. I went 35 all around and that seems to have resolved the acceleration shudder. But my questions are: was it the tires? what is the optimal pressure for these? should the pressures be "staggered"? more front than rear? You all know the rest. Thanks for any help.... r3 97 Arctic Silver/Black M3 86 Heller Rot/Tan (just converted to black) 325 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 12:08:58 -0500 From: Jonathan Evans Subject: Kumho Escsta ASX Opinions Thought I would add another data point about tire selection for the M3. I have been enjoying the Kumho Ecsta ASX on stock 17 staggered rims for a few months now. I went with all seasons since I wanted better near-winter weather handling here in Raleigh. We had a few snow flurries and the car handled it with aplomb. Heavy rain hasn't been a problem either. They have been good, quiet all season tires so far. We'll see how they hold up in the Summer heat.Jonathan95 m3 --------------------------------- Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and always stay connected to friends. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* --------------------------------- Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
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#10. test - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 13:19:58 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: test Just checking to make sure everyone is behaving :)
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#11. Help with manifold installation - from chipmitchell@gmail.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 14:27:52 -0500 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Help with manifold installation Good afternoon - I'm running into a snag trying to bolt exhaust manifolds back onto my '95 M3. The passenger side engine support arm (to the engine mount) is in the way, and won't allow the front manifold to fit over the studs. I've tried turning it every which way, checked that the studs were fully seated in the head, etc. Is there a trick to making it fit, or am I going to have to remove all the studs? Thanks, Chip Mitchell
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#12. HK door speaker needed - from trmptdc@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 18:25:42 -0500 From: trmptdc@aol.com Subject: HK door speaker needed One of my door speakers (the larger one with the HK emblem) is blown. Any suggestions on where to get a replacement (other than the dealer)? I spoke to someone at Tweeter who told me that an OEM was the best replacement, but they did not sell it (he would install it for around $40 if I brought one to him) Thanks Steve ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.