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#1. Re: [E36M3] TSX? - from Scott McClung
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 16:33:54 -0800 (PST) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? Well - what is done it done.... I did not suggest the MS3 because his wife passed on both the Legacy GT and WRX and he wanted a sedan, not a wagon, so it was was never in the running. Scott --- Mike VanAmburgh <mvanamburgh@charter.net> wrote: > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 18:12:43 -0600 > From: "Mike VanAmburgh" <mvanamburgh@charter.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? > > TSX is too gutless. I see MS6 on the list but what > about the MS3? It also > has the same 2.3 16V Turbo but 'only' with 263 hp > and 6 speed tranny but > weighs a few hundred pounds lighter. I see WRX on > your list, so the MS3 > should definitely be considered. Yeah it's fwd but > the handling is amazing > for an fwd. A sport model MS3 can be had for just > $22k. The GT model goes > for $24k. The major differences with the GT are > Bose stereo (sounds ok but > nearly as good as the Rockford Fosgate set up in our > Titan), HID headlights, > LED taillights and leather bolsters. I highly > recommend he checks them out. > The options are Nav ($1700 - not worth it), Sirius > ($430), wheel locks > ($40), goofy brushed aluminum gas door ($100) and a > couple other small > things I can't remember off the top of my head. We > picked ours up a couple > weeks ago and are having a blast with it! I have > very little doubt that it > pulls harder than my 95 M3 w/ Conforti kit. > > If he needs a nicer interior, VW has recently put > out a 4-door GTI. They > are fairly quick and the handling is decent. Too > bad they are ugly as hell. > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott M" <smlists@pacbell.net> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:50 AM > Subject: [E36M3] TSX? > > > > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 09:29:03 -0800 > > From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> > > Subject: TSX? > > > > > > > >> Anyone have any experience or opinions about the > Acura TSX? > >> > >> I have a buddy who was in the market to replace > his G35 sedan. He was > >> looking for a small, light and good handling > 4-door with a manual trans. > >> Of course he didn't even consider an E36 M3 > because they are so old at > >> this point. > >> > >> Cars he looked at (many I recommended that he > check out): > >> - WRX > >> - Legacy GT > >> - E46 330 > >> - E90 335 > >> - MazdaSpeed6 > >> - new G35 > >> > >> Of course I did not recommend the TSX, which is > the car he ended up > >> with. I would never suggest a FWD car to someone > looking for a sporting > >> / good handling car because I don't think they > handle all that great - > >> not to my taste anyway. Even the EvoIX that I > owned for ~ a year had a > >> bit too much torque steer for my taste, although > it was forgivable to > >> some degree because the car had so much grip > around any turn under > >> throttle, wet or dry - and that made it so fun > to drive. Not to mention > >> the most precise steering and best feedback of > any car I've owned or > >> driven and that includes the E36 and E46 M3. > >> > >> So needless to say I am disappointed in his > choice. Although, the > >> current lease offer is attractive which I am sure > factored in. ($299 / > >> month for 36mo with $2K down) I looked up the > specs and at least the > >> TSX is light - comes in at 3250lbs. But with a > 205hp 4- banger that > >> can't make any tq down low. I can't see how it > would be better than a > >> E46 330i, even if it is 100lbs lighter. The > Legacy and WRX did not pass > >> the wife test, although he really liked them > both. And although it has > >> a hot rod motor, the new G35 is bigger than he > wanted and quite heavy. > >> MS6 is also fairly heavy, but at least is AWD > and with a turbo has much > >> better mid-range punch than a 4-banger would. > >> > >> Scott > >> > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] TSX? - from Mpower
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 16:59:03 -0800 From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? Without causing a crap storm (which I probably will with this statement), but I would have chosen the TSX over the other choices if it was to be my 'everyday driver.' With that said, the reasons are simple. It's a acura/honda! It will run forever if you maintain it. (Well it should at least.) If there was a Toyota on that list I would consider that before the Acura. =P Now if your friend is a carnut, and doesn't care, then that changes everything. But any mechanic that specializes in japanese cars will rank it as: Toyota, honda and the rest of them. This is in terms of reliability, not "other" factors. I'm sure the WRX ranks way up more in the fun department. Hence, my wife drives an Acura. It's reliable, safe, and pretty darn fast for a big'o sedan. The build quality I'm not to thrilled about to be honest with you. I'd love to put her in a 5er, but I'm not confident enough in the reliability of it. Enough said..for now. Hope I didn't open a can of worms! =P -kelvin --------- Original Message -------- From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? Date: 03/06/07 16:41 > > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 16:33:54 -0800 (PST) > From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? > > Well - what is done it done.... > > I did not suggest the MS3 because his wife passed on > both the Legacy GT and WRX and he wanted a sedan, not > a wagon, so it was was never in the running. > > Scott > --- Mike VanAmburgh <mvanamburgh@charter.net> wrote: > > > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 18:12:43 -0600 > > From: "Mike VanAmburgh" <mvanamburgh@charter.net> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? > > > > TSX is too gutless. I see MS6 on the list but what > > about the MS3? It also > > has the same 2.3 16V Turbo but 'only' with 263 hp > > and 6 speed tranny but > > weighs a few hundred pounds lighter. I see WRX on > > your list, so the MS3 > > should definitely be considered. Yeah it's fwd but > > the handling is amazing > > for an fwd. A sport model MS3 can be had for just > > $22k. The GT model goes > > for $24k. The major differences with the GT are > > Bose stereo (sounds ok but > > nearly as good as the Rockford Fosgate set up in our > > Titan), HID headlights, > > LED taillights and leather bolsters. I highly > > recommend he checks them out. > > The options are Nav ($1700 - not worth it), Sirius > > ($430), wheel locks > > ($40), goofy brushed aluminum gas door ($100) and a > > couple other small > > things I can't remember off the top of my head. We > > picked ours up a couple > > weeks ago and are having a blast with it! I have > > very little doubt that it > > pulls harder than my 95 M3 w/ Conforti kit. > > > > If he needs a nicer interior, VW has recently put > > out a 4-door GTI. They > > are fairly quick and the handling is decent. Too > > bad they are ugly as hell. > > > > Mike > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Scott M" <smlists@pacbell.net> > > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:50 AM > > Subject: [E36M3] TSX? > > > > > > > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 09:29:03 -0800 > > > From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> > > > Subject: TSX? > > > > > > > > > > > >> Anyone have any experience or opinions about the > > Acura TSX? > > >> > > >> I have a buddy who was in the market to replace > > his G35 sedan. He was > > >> looking for a small, light and good handling > > 4-door with a manual trans. > > >> Of course he didn't even consider an E36 M3 > > because they are so old at > > >> this point. > > >> > > >> Cars he looked at (many I recommended that he > > check out): > > >> - WRX > > >> - Legacy GT > > >> - E46 330 > > >> - E90 335 > > >> - MazdaSpeed6 > > >> - new G35 > > >> > > >> Of course I did not recommend the TSX, which is > > the car he ended up > > >> with. I would never suggest a FWD car to someone > > looking for a sporting > > >> / good handling car because I don't think they > > handle all that great - > > >> not to my taste anyway. Even the EvoIX that I > > owned for ~ a year had a > > >> bit too much torque steer for my taste, although > > it was forgivable to > > >> some degree because the car had so much grip > > around any turn under > > >> throttle, wet or dry - and that made it so fun > > to drive. Not to mention > > >> the most precise steering and best feedback of > > any car I've owned or > > >> driven and that includes the E36 and E46 M3. > > >> > > >> So needless to say I am disappointed in his > > choice. Although, the > > >> current lease offer is attractive which I am sure > > factored in. ($299 / > > >> month for 36mo with $2K down) I looked up the > > specs and at least the > > >> TSX is light - comes in at 3250lbs. But with a > > 205hp 4- banger that > > >> can't make any tq down low. I can't see how it > > would be better than a > > >> E46 330i, even if it is 100lbs lighter. The > > Legacy and WRX did not pass > > >> the wife test, although he really liked them > > both. And although it has > > >> a hot rod motor, the new G35 is bigger than he > > wanted and quite heavy. > > >> MS6 is also fairly heavy, but at least is AWD > > and with a turbo has much > > >> better mid-range punch than a 4-banger would. > > >> > > >> Scott > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > > sponsors: > > > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > > Eurosport High Performance > > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > > sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance > > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > ________________________________________________ Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.10
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#3. Brake Lines - from Mdgreer
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 21:34:54 -0500 (EST) From: "Mdgreer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Brake Lines I'm preparing to replace brake lines, probably with stainless braid. Anyone care to relate your experience or recommendation? Kits are offered with teflon inside the braid and others with teflon overcoat. I only do this once every couple-hundred-thousand miles so I don't want to make the wrong choice...97 M3 Sedan _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Brake Lines - from jeff.conner@yahoo.com
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 18:50:40 -0800 (PST) From: jeff.conner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Lines IMO, you can't really make a wrong choice. Though the stoptech lines are very nice. I have them in the 98 and plain old goodridge in the 95 & the wife has the stoptech in her 05 M3. No complaints with the lines on any of the cars. While you're ate it, throw a SS clutch line in there, too. And take out that ridiculous CDV if you haven't done so already. -jeff *happy user of ss brake lines. ----- Original Message ---- From: Mdgreer <mark.greer@excite.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2007 6:40:33 PM Subject: [E36M3] Brake Lines Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 21:34:54 -0500 (EST) From: "Mdgreer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Brake Lines I'm preparing to replace brake lines, probably with stainless braid. Anyone care to relate your experience or recommendation? Kits are offered with teflon inside the braid and others with teflon overcoat. I only do this once every couple-hundred-thousand miles so I don't want to make the wrong choice...97 M3 Sedan _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ____________________________________________________________________________________ Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection. Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta. http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/features_spam.html
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Brake Lines - from David Michael
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 22:51:11 -0500 From: "David Michael" <adavidmichael@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Lines Mark, A few comments: Many of the SS brake lines have "furrells" that are so small that the will slip through the hole in the bracket that terminates the hard lines. The "answer" is the attach the harline to the softline and tie wrap them to the bracket. I kinda did not like that. I went through two brands before I settled on Stop-Tech. The other suggestion is get the very best flare nut wrench you can. Craftsman is NOT good enough in my experience. I ordered a snap-on, and it makes all the the difference. Hope that helps Dave m3/4 On 3/6/07, Mdgreer <mark.greer@excite.com> wrote: > > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 21:34:54 -0500 (EST) > From: "Mdgreer" <mark.greer@excite.com> > Subject: Brake Lines > > > I'm preparing to replace brake lines, probably with stainless braid. > Anyone care to relate your experience or recommendation? Kits are offered > with teflon inside the braid and others with teflon overcoat. I only do this > once every couple-hundred-thousand miles so I don't want to make the wrong > choice...97 M3 Sedan > > _______________________________________________ > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com > The most personalized portal on the Web! > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#6. Replacing Front Wheel Bearings - from Jonathan L.
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Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 20:13:58 -0800 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Replacing Front Wheel Bearings I found this writeup on PelicanParts.com. It's in the E36 section, but it's listed as E30. It sounds like the front bearings are of the same basic design, so I'm guessing that this procedure could be correct? If this is right, it doesn't look like a terribly tough job, but let me know: << Once the car has been jacked up and is firmly supported on jack stands, remove the lug bolts and pull the front wheels off. You will now see a dust cap in the center of the rotor. Pry these both off. You will now see a large nut inside with a pin driven inside the axle shaft. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry this pin back and out of the axle shaft. Now have a helper apply the brakes and loosen the nut. It may be helpful to use an impact wrench to get this nut off, as it is torques down to 210 ft./lbs. do not remove the nut at this time. We just need to get them loose. Now, look behind the brake caliper and disconnect the ABS speed sensors on both wheels. Also disconnect the brake wear indicator sensor on the driver’s side wheel. Now look at the back of the brake calipers. You will see two bolts that hold the calipers to the mounting bracket. Remove these bolts and pull the calipers off. Now you will be able to pull the brake calipers off the mounting bracket. Use a zip-tie or wire to suspend the brake caliper. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake lines, you may rip the lines. Now, remove the two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket to the hub, and remove the caliper mounting brackets. We now must remove the brake rotors. This is done by first removing the small Allen head set screw in the front of the rotor. You may find it helpful to spray these bolts with a good penetrant spray like WD-40 and let them sit overnight. This will prevent the screws from stripping or seizing. Remove the screws and pull the rotors off the hubs. Now, we need to use a puller to remove the wheel hub from the car. Thread the puller onto the hub using the holes for the lug bolts and center the puller on the axle shaft. Now remove the hub. It may take a while to remove this, so use plenty of WD-40 and keep pulling. Once off, remove the dust shield form the old hub, and transfer it onto the new hub. The wheel bearings on the E30 are an integral part of the hub, so the whole hub assembly must be replaced. The new hubs will come with the bearings already pre-installed. Take the new bearing/hub ad place it on the axle shaft. Use the puller to push it onto the axle shaft. Keep in mind to apply force only to the inner bearing race as you could damage the bearing. Drive the bearings as far as they will go onto the shaft. Now re-install the retaining nut, but do not tighten it right now. Now re-install the brake rotors, and use a new set screw to hold it in place. The old set screws are designed for one use only and can snap or break if you try to re-use them. Put the new set screws in and torque them to 12 ft./lbs. Next, fit the brake caliper mounting brackets over the rotor and bolt them back on to the hub. Torque the bolts to 81 ft./lbs. Now cut the zip-ties holding the rotors and place the brake pads into the calipers. Place the calipers back onto the mounting bracket and re-install the 14mm bolts that hold them to the mounting bracket. Re-connect the ABS speed sensors and the brake wear indicator on the driver’s side. Have an assistant apply the brakes and torque the axle-retaining nut to 210 ft./lbs. You may find it helpful to use an impact wrench to get it on there. Once torqued, use a screwdriver to bend the tang into the axle shaft. This will keep the nuts from coming off. Now put a little bit of grease inside the dust cap and put them back on.Put the wheels back on and install the lug bolts (but do not tighten) now lower the car and tighten the lug bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all. >> _________________________________________________________________ Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month. Intro*Terms https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f6&disc=y&vers=743&s=4056&p=5117
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Replacing Front Wheel Bearings - from jeff.conner@yahoo.com
Top
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 20:54:42 -0800 (PST) From: jeff.conner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing Front Wheel Bearings Jonathan, Your timing couldn't be better. I just finished changing the front bearings on the 95 and it's pretty much as they described. Couple of thoughts: > The axle shaft nut is 46mm. Good luck finding an impact socket (Or any other socket) to fit it. I had to borrow one from a gearhead buddy who works at a BMW indie shop > A rubber mallet is your friend! > Be really cautious taking the rotor set screw out. I stripped one and it was a PITA to drill through the sucker and use the reversing drill bit > The bearing/hub unit WILL come apart when you pull it off, so get yourself a set of long gear pullers or something similar to get the last little piece of the old bearing assembly off (You'll know what I mean) Have fun. It wasn't difficult at all, just a little time consuming -jeff S52 Sedan | S50 Trackdog ----- Original Message ---- From: Jonathan L. <twistym3@hotmail.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2007 8:20:33 PM Subject: [E36M3] Replacing Front Wheel Bearings Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 20:13:58 -0800 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Replacing Front Wheel Bearings I found this writeup on PelicanParts.com. It's in the E36 section, but it's listed as E30. It sounds like the front bearings are of the same basic design, so I'm guessing that this procedure could be correct? If this is right, it doesn't look like a terribly tough job, but let me know: << Once the car has been jacked up and is firmly supported on jack stands, remove the lug bolts and pull the front wheels off. You will now see a dust cap in the center of the rotor. Pry these both off. You will now see a large nut inside with a pin driven inside the axle shaft. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry this pin back and out of the axle shaft. Now have a helper apply the brakes and loosen the nut. It may be helpful to use an impact wrench to get this nut off, as it is torques down to 210 ft./lbs. do not remove the nut at this time. We just need to get them loose. Now, look behind the brake caliper and disconnect the ABS speed sensors on both wheels. Also disconnect the brake wear indicator sensor on the driver’s side wheel. Now look at the back of the brake calipers. You will see two bolts that hold the calipers to the mounting bracket. Remove these bolts and pull the calipers off. Now you will be able to pull the brake calipers off the mounting bracket. Use a zip-tie or wire to suspend the brake caliper. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake lines, you may rip the lines. Now, remove the two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket to the hub, and remove the caliper mounting brackets.. We now must remove the brake rotors. This is done by first removing the small Allen head set screw in the front of the rotor. You may find it helpful to spray these bolts with a good penetrant spray like WD-40 and let them sit overnight. This will prevent the screws from stripping or seizing. Remove the screws and pull the rotors off the hubs. Now, we need to use a puller to remove the wheel hub from the car. Thread the puller onto the hub using the holes for the lug bolts and center the puller on the axle shaft. Now remove the hub. It may take a while to remove this, so use plenty of WD-40 and keep pulling. Once off, remove the dust shield form the old hub, and transfer it onto the new hub. The wheel bearings on the E30 are an integral part of the hub, so the whole hub assembly must be replaced. The new hubs will come with the bearings already pre-installed. Take the new bearing/hub ad place it on the axle shaft. Use the puller to push it onto the axle shaft. Keep in mind to apply force only to the inner bearing race as you could damage the bearing. Drive the bearings as far as they will go onto the shaft. Now re-install the retaining nut, but do not tighten it right now. Now re-install the brake rotors, and use a new set screw to hold it in place. The old set screws are designed for one use only and can snap or break if you try to re-use them. Put the new set screws in and torque them to 12 ft./lbs. Next, fit the brake caliper mounting brackets over the rotor and bolt them back on to the hub. Torque the bolts to 81 ft./lbs. Now cut the zip-ties holding the rotors and place the brake pads into the calipers. Place the calipers back onto the mounting bracket and re-install the 14mm bolts that hold them to the mounting bracket. Re-connect the ABS speed sensors and the brake wear indicator on the driver’s side. Have an assistant apply the brakes and torque the axle-retaining nut to 210 ft./lbs. You may find it helpful to use an impact wrench to get it on there. Once torqued, use a screwdriver to bend the tang into the axle shaft. This will keep the nuts from coming off. Now put a little bit of grease inside the dust cap and put them back on.Put the wheels back on and install the lug bolts (but do not tighten) now lower the car and tighten the lug bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all. >> _________________________________________________________________ Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month. Intro*Terms https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f6&disc=y&vers=743&s=4056&p=5117 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www..elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ____________________________________________________________________________________ No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
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#8. Re: [E36M3] TSX? - from Jay G
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Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 20:47:13 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? wife has one...as a daily driver, it's great...to have as a "sporting" car, it sucks...vtec kicks in at 6000rpm, so you only have it for 1k rpm brfore the redline...she has the AT, but it seems like forever to get up to 60 (but then again, anything other than the Z06 seems slow now)...handling is okay, but i cant see it doing very well at an auto-x or track event...it also has this "tinny $hitbox" feel and sound when you close the doors...weird, cause i noticed it, but my wife was the one who brought it up...front seats arent too comfortable and takes getting used to, and the sound system is mediocre also... we bought ours cause wife wanted a 4cyl sedan...and we got ours at invoice, so that played a big factor... too bad he didnt consider an E36 M3...my 10 year old M3 is worlds more sporting than the tsx...
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#9. Re: [E36M3] TSX? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 22:55:24 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] TSX? On Mar 6, 2007, at 10:50 PM, Jay G wrote: > it also has this "tinny $hitbox" feel and sound when you close the > doors...weird, cause i noticed it, but my wife was the one who > brought it up... Every Honda/Acura I've ever seen has this problem, including their expensive cars. I can't figure it out - it's not rocket science to build doors that feel like quality. Frankly, a $40K MDX should not sound like a '87 Hyundai when you slam the door. I gutted the doors on my'94 325is race car and they still sound and feel like a bank vault door when they shut. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#10. heat only on r/s - from tim ng
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Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2007 09:54:33 -0500 From: "tim ng" <s14realm3@hotmail.com> Subject: heat only on r/s gang: changed my heater hoses and now I only ahve heat on the r/s and none on the left. My guess would be I got 2 of the 3 hoses on wrong, anyone got a digram on which way the 3 hoses go into the heater valve and also into the firewall? Also I lost my fan 1,2,3. I only have #4. Where is the fan resistor in the e36? This is on my 95 Tim Ng BMWCCA # 36497 95 BUZZNM3 dakar yella 94 325i future track car 92 325ic M-Technic pkg 91 M3 garage queen 89 325ia commuter car 88 M3/2.5 DM race car ------------------ project 90 535ia ------------------ Pace shadow 26 ft enclosed trailer my web page: http://groups.msn.com/M3stuff/pictures