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#1. RE: V8 M3 Overview Doc - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 08:12:41 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: V8 M3 Overview Doc I like to see and watch advances in technology but it seems to me they could have kept the six and downsized the car for the same performance gains. -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 09:24:13 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: V8 M3 Overview Doc Yeah, that was my thought, too. Probably way cheaper to get a blower. An E36 with a nice V8 sound would turn some heads, though. :-) I guess we'll need to wait 8-10 years for enough of these things to have been sold and crashed for the used engine market to be priced more reasonably. Probably not worth it to swap one into a 20 year old E36 at that point, tho. -Pete
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#2. Ignition Update - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 10:39:43 -0500 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Ignition Update After a little more digging in Bentley, I found ELE -165 for the Instrument Panel which shows a sub-box for the ignition switch with Brn and Blu/Blk disappearing into the instrument cluster circuitry. BUT after studying the operation of the main ignition switch, the contacts for Brn and Blu/Blk are always open in normal rotary operation. There's a plastic pin in the center of the switch housing and if you push it, it will make contact, but when does it ever get pushed? OR, is it always pushed when it's in place on the shaft coming from the key cylinder? At any rate, it seems that these two along with the Grn/Wht are unused and I can run the car with just the Acc, Run and Start switches. Soooo, my main question remains: What current rating do I need for the Run toggle switch? I've got a 20A switch for Acc and Run and noticed that the main power lead in is a 12ga wire, so I'm planning on running that to the Run switch and 14ga to the Acc switch. If anyone can confirm the current rating on those circuits I'd be greatly appreciative. Thanks, Steve
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: V8 M3 Overview Doc - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 09:04:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: V8 M3 Overview Doc A I6 that revved to 15k rpms would have been nice ;) Chester --- "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > I like to see and watch advances in technology but it seems to me they > could have kept the six and downsized the car for the same performance > gains.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: V8 M3 Overview Doc - from Peter Loron
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 09:12:03 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: V8 M3 Overview Doc Or downsized the car and given us the V8! :-) A 1-series with that motor would probably be amusing. -Pete On 3/26/07, Burgess, Kim L <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > > Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 08:12:41 -0700 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > Subject: RE: V8 M3 Overview Doc > > I like to see and watch advances in technology but it seems to me they > could have kept the six and downsized the car for the same performance > gains. > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 09:24:13 -0700 > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: V8 M3 Overview Doc > > Yeah, that was my thought, too. Probably way cheaper to get a blower. An > E36 with a nice V8 sound would turn some heads, though. :-) > > I guess we'll need to wait 8-10 years for enough of these things to have > been sold and crashed for the used engine market to be priced more > reasonably. Probably not worth it to swap one into a 20 year old E36 at > that point, tho. -Pete > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#5. How to crank but not start the car? - from Peter Loron
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 09:23:10 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: How to crank but not start the car? Ok, the long-running process of replacing the head is almost done. All that remains (aside from wiring up my ZKWs...Yeah!) is to pour the oil in, put the valve cover on, cross various bodily appendages, and fire it up. From what I've read, it is recommended to crank the car some before attempting to fire it up for two reasons: 1. Get oil pumped up into the engine. 2. Refill and pressurize the fuel rail. There is a circular locking multi-pin plug that connects from the fuel rail/coil harness over to the passenger-side rear of the engine compartment, next to the secondary air pump. One time I accidentally left that disconnected and tried to start the car. It cranked, but didn't fire. Would disconnecting that be a good way to accomplish #1 and #2? My guess is that it disconnects the coils (and possibly the injectors) from the computer... Thanks! -Pete
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#6. Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? - from Tom Melton
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 12:29:23 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <Tom.Melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? Pull the fuel pump fuse, no fuel pressure, no start. -Tom >>> "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> 3/26/2007 12:27 PM >>> Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 09:23:10 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: How to crank but not start the car? Ok, the long-running process of replacing the head is almost done. All that remains (aside from wiring up my ZKWs...Yeah!) is to pour the oil in, put the valve cover on, cross various bodily appendages, and fire it up. From what I've read, it is recommended to crank the car some before attempting to fire it up for two reasons: 1. Get oil pumped up into the engine. 2. Refill and pressurize the fuel rail. There is a circular locking multi-pin plug that connects from the fuel rail/coil harness over to the passenger-side rear of the engine compartment, next to the secondary air pump. One time I accidentally left that disconnected and tried to start the car. It cranked, but didn't fire. Would disconnecting that be a good way to accomplish #1 and #2? My guess is that it disconnects the coils (and possibly the injectors) from the computer... Thanks! -Pete ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com ( http://www.bimmerworld.com/ ) Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com ( http://www.turnermotorsport.com/ ) Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com ( http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/ ) Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com ( http://www.rogueengineering.com/ ) Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com ( http://www.treehouseracing.com/ ) Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com ( http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/ ) DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw ( http://www.bmw/ )-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 10:15:54 -0700 From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? Note that this approach does not accomplish one of his stated goals, which was building fuel pressure. However, it should be no big deal. If you can crank the engine sans fuel pressure a bit, hopefully that will move the oil around as you desire. Plug the fuel pump fuse back in again, try to start the car, and it'll catch after a few seconds once fuel pressure is built back up again. I don't see how this approach is any more harmful than one that would allow you to build fuel pressure AND oil pressure. After all, it's pretty much the same thing you asked for, except once you put the fuse back in, the car decides when it starts (enough fuel flowing), not you :) Cranking the car and waiting for fuel pressure to build before it catches shouldn't be harmful in any way. BTW, just did my plugs, fuel filter, and oil this weekend. So I can relate to the few-second-of-cranking-before-firing situation. - reid > Pull the fuel pump fuse, no fuel pressure, no start. > > -Tom
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#8. Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? - from Tom Melton
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 13:24:34 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <Tom.Melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? True, missed that in his original post. But, unless you disable each injector, you *may* be firing the injectors allowing fuel to pool in the intake or cylinders. I would not be wanting to wash down the cylinder walls with fuel, or have it pool in the intake. -Tom >>> "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> 3/26/2007 1:17 PM >>> Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 10:15:54 -0700 From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? Note that this approach does not accomplish one of his stated goals, which was building fuel pressure. However, it should be no big deal. If you can crank the engine sans fuel pressure a bit, hopefully that will move the oil around as you desire. Plug the fuel pump fuse back in again, try to start the car, and it'll catch after a few seconds once fuel pressure is built back up again. I don't see how this approach is any more harmful than one that would allow you to build fuel pressure AND oil pressure. After all, it's pretty much the same thing you asked for, except once you put the fuse back in, the car decides when it starts (enough fuel flowing), not you :) Cranking the car and waiting for fuel pressure to build before it catches shouldn't be harmful in any way. BTW, just did my plugs, fuel filter, and oil this weekend. So I can relate to the few-second-of-cranking-before-firing situation. - reid > Pull the fuel pump fuse, no fuel pressure, no start. > > -Tom
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#9. Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? - from Peter Loron
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 11:05:01 -0700 From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? Yep, that's the situation I was trying to avoid. :-) Ok, sounds like the fuel pump fuse is it. Thanks. -Pete On 3/26/07, Tom Melton <Tom.Melton@emoryhealthcare.org> wrote: > > Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 13:24:34 -0400 > From: "Tom Melton" <Tom.Melton@emoryhealthcare.org> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? > > True, missed that in his original post. But, unless you disable each > injector, you *may* be firing the injectors allowing fuel to pool in the > intake or cylinders. I would not be wanting to wash down the cylinder > walls with fuel, or have it pool in the intake. > > -Tom > > >>> "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> 3/26/2007 1:17 PM >>> > Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 10:15:54 -0700 > From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to crank but not start the car? > > Note that this approach does not accomplish one of his stated goals, > which was building fuel pressure. > > However, it should be no big deal. If you can crank the engine sans > fuel pressure a bit, hopefully that will move the oil around as you > desire. > > Plug the fuel pump fuse back in again, try to start the car, and it'll > catch after a few seconds once fuel pressure is built back up again. > > I don't see how this approach is any more harmful than one that would > allow you to build fuel pressure AND oil pressure. After all, it's > pretty much the same thing you asked for, except once you put the fuse > back in, the car decides when it starts (enough fuel flowing), not you > :) Cranking the car and waiting for fuel pressure to build before it > catches shouldn't be harmful in any way. > > BTW, just did my plugs, fuel filter, and oil this weekend. So I can > relate to the few-second-of-cranking-before-firing situation. > > - reid > > > Pull the fuel pump fuse, no fuel pressure, no start. > > > > -Tom > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#10. RE: [E36M3] FS: 97 M3/4 (First posting) - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 13:15:21 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] FS: 97 M3/4 (First posting) Good luck with the sale. I think you'll do well, that color is very rare indeed and nicely optioned. I haven't seen a 4 door in that color ever. Be patient, and you'll find a home for it. I'd recommend putting in the radiator right away, a blown radiator whether it's your problem or not is a failure you can't limp home. You can replace the radiator easy enough on the roadside, but who wants the hassle. Also consider the value in the eyes of the prospective buyer (by showing the old one which didn't fail) the proof that it didn't let go during driving, as it doesn't take long to warp stuff ( head, or premature h-gasket failure). Fresh radiators on cars for sale without proof of precautionary replacement 'could' easily turn off a customer, as opposed to routine maintenance already done 'could' attract one. The e36 is absolutely the easiest car I've put a radiator in, IIRC it can all be accomplished with a screwdriver. Again, good luck with the sale. I think your price is on par. Patrick 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: David Thomas [mailto:dave@sasdatalink.com] Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 12:07 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] FS: 97 M3/4 (First posting) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 21:06:22 -0700 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] FS: 97 M3/4 (First posting) On Sunday 25 March 2007 8:37:07 pm Mel Silva wrote: > _So what's the bottom line? _ > I'm looking for $15K. > Kelley Blue Book Value says $13K, but I've added a bunch of goodies and > the car has been pampered. Nice car...but I don't know if you can get $15K for a 4 door that's been wrecked...too many out there...at least in my area. Good starting price though. Dave ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************