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#1. Re: How to crank but not start the car? - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 17:46:59 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: How to crank but not start the car? > From: "Paul L Fisher" bmw@paul-fisher.com > Floor the gas pedal. That turns off the injectors. This helps start a flooded engine. Well, wouldn't that be entertaining on the street and on the track if that was true. Oh, you mean only when cranking over the starter before the engine fires up. How sure are you about that? I don't believe that to be true on E36 M3s in my experience (or any BMWs that I have owned). Regards, Rich
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 15:42:08 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket I just found this which should be helpful:P http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-valve-cover/E36-Valve-Cover ..htm
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 16:04:31 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket On Tue, March 27, 2007 3:47 pm, Dave DeBuhr said: > I just found this which should be helpful:P > > http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-valve-cover/E36-Valve-Cover > .htm Maybe it's just me (and no disrespect to PelicanParts), but I could have the job done in the time it would take to read that article. :-) Jim Bassett
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 16:15:23 -0700 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket On 3/27/07, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > > On Tue, March 27, 2007 3:47 pm, Dave DeBuhr said: > > I just found this which should be helpful:P > > > > > http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-valve-cover/E36-Valve-Cover > > .htm > > Maybe it's just me (and no disrespect to PelicanParts), but I could have > the job done in the time it would take to read that article. I followed the Pelican write-up last time I did my valve cover gaskets. It is good for the first time you do it. However, one tip of advice: be liberal with the sealant at the back of the valve cover/head. I was apparently a little too conservative and developed a slight leak at the back now. Is it possible to reuse the newish (less than 10K miles) gasket? Drive Safely, Raza
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket - from Steve Burke
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Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 20:14:56 -0400 From: "Steve Burke" <s_burke@cox.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 13:38:16 -0700 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket > My valve cover has developed a small leak near the rear of the motor. > I want to replace it before it makes a mess back there. Any gotchas > to swapping this out? I was looking at the Pacific BMW site and it looks > like there is an inner gasket in the exploded diagram. Is that something > I need to address when I pull the cover? > http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/images/mechanical/F277050.gif > Part number's 7 & 8? > Anything I should check/replace while I have the cover off of a > 98 M3 with 73,000 miles on it? > Any info appreciated... > Dave DeBuhr > 98 M3/4 Dave, This issue was mentioned by a previous poster but I want to emphasis it. One thing to be very aware of is the condition of the old gasket set as you remove it. You have fewer miles on your car so this may not be an issue. Both the two inner and the outer gaskets on my car had turned from rubber to a brittle plastic substance from heat, time, and perhaps oil. When I whacked the cover to loosen it, some of the old gasket actually shattered into the head. If this happens to you, take your time to find ALL of the little pieces. As was already suggested, this is a good time to replace your plugs. Some like the various iridiums. I like the good 'ole stockers. The gasket sets sold typically include all of the gaskets you will need. However, you will also want to purchase a quantity of 15 of #9 shown in the pic below: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD93&mospid=47504&btnr=11_2308 &hg=11&fg=15 The parts can be purchased from several online vendors. Steve Burke
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#6. Current ratings for switches - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 22:40:45 -0500 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Current ratings for switches As a followup to my earlier post about bypassing the ignition cylinder, I've got it mostly under control, but I'm looking for information on what current ratings I'll need for the Aux and Run circuits. I've got two 20A toggle switches and 12 & 14 ga wire to splice in, but I want to make sure I've got a comfortable margin on the switch gear since they'll see continuous current. The starter is wired in with a 15A momentary and 14ga wire and works just fine (although I'll move the hot wire tap to behind the Run circuit as you can crank the car right now with everything off). If anyone (racers?) knows the current ratings for those two circuits, I'd be greatly appreciative. Steve By the by, I've traced the Brn and Blu/Wht to Bentley's ELE-165 but I still can't make sense of it. They have a separate switch arrangement on the back of the switch activated by a plunger in the center of the switch housing that must get depressed when it's installed on the shaft from the lock cyl. Which means... it's closed all the time? Why is the switch there if it's always closed, or what activates the switch (pushing in on the key)? And it just disappears into the instrument cluster microcircuitry. Could it be power for reading the ODO with everything off? Inquiring minds...
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#7. OT: very uneven brake pad wear on other car - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 11:00:08 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: OT: very uneven brake pad wear on other car Guys, First, sorry for being off topic here but I'm very frustrated with my Toyota mechanic. My Previa with 190,000 miles developed uneven brake pad wear around 150,000 miles. Very heavy wear at the left front, a little less on the right front, and virtually no wear on the rear. I do my own brake pad changes, just like on the bimmer, however replacement has gone from every 45K miles (front/rear), to now 10K on the left front but over 100K on the rears! Calipers, hoses, and rotors were replaced a year ago and the condition is actually getting worse. Last time the left front was toast by 16K miles, now 10K. Any suggestions to my mechanic - who appears to be brain dead. I keep telling him it must be the master cylinder, but he is hell bent on replacing everything else first. Any advice is welcome. Please reply offline to preserve bandwidth for e36M3 topics. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering ************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] OT: very uneven brake pad wear on other car - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 11:02:33 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: very uneven brake pad wear on other car Hi Bob, I had a similar problem on my 00 M5, although I also noticed pulling to the left under hard braking. It turned out to be the rubber dust boot sealing the caliper piston was torn and had allowed the piston to corrode pretty severely. I would start there, at 190K miles, your calipers probably need rebuilding anyway. Regards Jamie Howton 06 M Roadster 04 645Ci 95 M3
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#9. RE: Valve Cover Gasket - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 09:44:58 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Valve Cover Gasket If you replace the gasket and you find there is still a leak look to the threaded oil galley plug in the back of the head. This has got to be rare, but mine had backed out and was leaking. #23 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=11_ 1506&hg=11&fg=15 -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 13:38:16 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] Valve Cover Gasket My valve cover has developed a small leak near the rear of the motor. I want to replace it before it makes a mess back there. Any gotchas to swapping this out? I was looking at the Pacific BMW site and it looks Like there is an inner gasket in the exploded diagram. Is that something I need to address when I pull the cover? Part number's 7 & 8? http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/images/mechanical/F277050.gif Anything I should check/replace while I have the cover off of a 98 M3 with 73,000 miles on it? Any info appreciated... Dave DeBuhr 98 M3/4
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Current ratings for switches - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 10:03:40 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Current ratings for switches I personally would use relays to cary that type of current. I would use Bosch or equivalent relays. Relays are more reliable in high current applications. Kent On Mar 27, 2007, at 8:47 PM, Steve Klein wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 22:40:45 -0500 > From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> > Subject: Current ratings for switches > > As a followup to my earlier post about bypassing the ignition > cylinder, I've got it mostly under control, but I'm looking for > information on what current ratings I'll need for the Aux and Run > circuits. > > I've got two 20A toggle switches and 12 & 14 ga wire to splice in, > but I want to make sure I've got a comfortable margin on the switch > gear since they'll see continuous current. > > The starter is wired in with a 15A momentary and 14ga wire and > works just fine (although I'll move the hot wire tap to behind the > Run circuit as you can crank the car right now with everything off). > > If anyone (racers?) knows the current ratings for those two > circuits, I'd be greatly appreciative. > > > Steve > > > By the by, I've traced the Brn and Blu/Wht to Bentley's ELE-165 but > I still can't make sense of it. They have a separate switch > arrangement on the back of the switch activated by a plunger in the > center of the switch housing that must get depressed when it's > installed on the shaft from the lock cyl. Which means... it's > closed all the time? Why is the switch there if it's always closed, > or what activates the switch (pushing in on the key)? > > And it just disappears into the instrument cluster microcircuitry. > Could it be power for reading the ODO with everything off? > > Inquiring minds... > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >