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#1. RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 15:15:59 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU Paul, you might just want to borrow my fender roller again and apply it not to the lip, but the inner upper flare. Even though the fender may be double-walled, there will be some point whereby wall B contacts wall A (the cosmetic side) and "beating it" could result in quite an eyesore. Patrick -----Original Message----- From: Doug Wirth [mailto:doug_wirth@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 3:41 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 12:40:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Doug Wirth <doug_wirth@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU The rear fender is double walled, I just beat on mine from inside the wheel-well to move it in some. Doug ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Andrews <emosound@verizon.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 2:30:48 PM Subject: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 15:25:40 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: Rear camber arms for STU Hi Group, I'm running 255 Neovas in SCCA autox, and they rub the fender above the lip, which is rolled. The stock arms are at max camber. So, I think I need adjustable rear lower camber arms for my 98 M3/4. They have to be STU-legal, so no hiem joints. The Ground Control ones look like the best; steel, urethane inner bushing, easy to adjust. Any others I should look at? Paul Andrews 98 M3/4 # 42 STU ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. UUC Clutch kit - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:20:45 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: UUC Clutch kit Here is a different 'pole', have fun fishing - http://www.zeckhausen.com/CDV.htm KLB -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 13:13:02 -0400 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: UUC Clutch kit Hi Rob: I have a question regarding a clutch kit I purchased from UUC. It was installed by my mechanic (European Performance - Wilmington, DE) last fall sometime. The kit is the following: Lightweight Flywheel for '92-'99 E36 3-series, M3, Z3 & E34 525i - 8.5lbs - M5 sprung-hub clutch Please choose from these options:: Stg2 flywheel w/ UltraSmooth Cerametallic In first gear, from a dead stop, the clutch makes kind of a screeching/slipping sound, and then catches. At first I thought it might be a break-in characteristic, but the sound has never gone away. It's more noticeable when I am on a incline which puts more pressure on the clutch to launch the car from a dead stop. If I am careful, I can usually launch in first gear without the sound/slippage, but it is tricky (I have to let the clutch out quickly), and difficult to do if I am on an incline. For the most part, once underway there are no such issues. Not sure if this is a normal characteristic of this type of clutch + flywheel set-up, or if there is some other issue. The car does have a supercharger, but don't think it makes that much extra torque at low rpm to cause issues with the clutch. Also, UUC recommends a tranny fluid combination to cut down on the rattling noise of the lightweight flywheel. A paper insert came with the clutch kit, but I have since lost it. Can you refresh my memory on that? Thanks much, Matt Bader 98 M3/4
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#3. RE: Toe Rod Question - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:42:18 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Toe Rod Question I would only use OE Lemfoerder parts on the front end of my car, given that it still sees some track duty. The other thought I had (and what I did) was to use "L" Tie Rods and Meyle 'full metal jacket' ball joint control arms on my wife's street driven 328. -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 16:21:53 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <m.michalski@comcast.net> Subject: Toe Rod Question Good Afternoon, I just returned from a tech inspection for a driving school at Road America coming up at the end of the month. I was told that I need a new left front tie rod (it was really loose). It looks like the OEM is a brand by the name of "Lemfoerder". I went online and Pelican Parts also lists "Meyle" and "Karlyn" as other available options. There is a pretty big price difference between the Lemfoerder verses the others. Which should I go with? Is there a big difference? Is there a better after marker replacement that I should look at? And the final question, does any of our list sponsors have these? Please advise. Thank you in advance. Michael Michalski 97 ///M3 Luxury Edition w/loose tie rods. Windy City BMW CCA
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#4. RE: How to get rid of Air pocket in cooling system? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:49:52 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: How to get rid of Air pocket in cooling system? Many have stated that once on track our cars are running with WOT (wide open thermostat). I don't subscribe to that theory and believe while the T-Stat does not fully close it still cycles between full open and partially open in part to allow the coolant to slow in the radiator and transfer heat until the block requires a fresh full charge of reduced temperature fluid, then it opens again to provide that replenishment of coolant. I also believe our s50/s52 E36s will overheat (eventually on track or just off track in the paddock) with a T-Stat stuck full open or missing. KLB -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 19:50:19 -0400 From: "Langsten" <langsten@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to get rid of Air pocket in cooling system? Rich, and others . . . Running any engine w/o a t-stat can cause overheating . . The coolant flow needs to be slow enough that it cools while passing thru the radiator . . running w/o a t-stat causes the coolant to flow through the radiator at high speed and never dump its heat to the air . . The problem of heat transfer is not inside the engine, but getting rid of it. >> My theory on that is > > that at full-tilt-boogie on the track, there is enough airflow around > > the engine to provide additional cooling to make up for the lack of > > cooling because of the WOT. WOT is normally considered to be "wide open throttle" . . or do you mean wide open t-stat? In actuality the amount of increased air flow in the engine compartment at WOT (throttle) is negligible . . as WOT can be at 5 mph or at 100 mph. BMW aerodynamics don't allow for a substantial increase of air leakage into the engine compartment because of speed, over that which is generated by the cooling fan, or flowing thru the radiator. Certainly not enough to help in cooling the engine.
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#5. RE: Kosei K-1 - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:54:42 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Kosei K-1 I think I'd buy all four - new. Aluminum has a finite fatigue life and some (inexpensive) components reach their FL sooner than products from another manufacture due to many variables. Save yourself a bad Monday morning water cooler story and buy four new wheels. KLB -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 13:23:08 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: WTB: Kosei K-1 On track at Pocono on Friday, and managed to crack one of the spokes on one of my Kosei K-1's. Scary: Didn't find it until I was cleaning the wheels yesterday. Anyway, the long and the short of it is, does anyone have 1, 2 or 3 K-1's that they'd like to sell? Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 '01 740i Sport
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#6. Re: [E36M3] RE: Toe Rod Question - from David Thomas
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:56:35 -0700 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Toe Rod Question On Monday 16 April 2007 1:40:48 pm Burgess, Kim L wrote: > I would only use OE Lemfoerder parts on the front end of my car, given > that it still sees some track duty. The other thought I had (and what I > did) was to use "L" Tie Rods and Meyle 'full metal jacket' ball joint > control arms on my wife's street driven 328. Same here, Lemfoerder is my choice. I have heard that Meyle has stepped up the quality a bit over the last couple of years but I have had way too many Meyle parts on my E30 wear out too soon. Dave T.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 17:20:57 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU Wheels are the D-Force LTW5, 17x9, 41mm offset. It's rubbing on full compression, on the outside fender above the lip. What did you do to lessen/fix the rub? The RE and GC pieces look really similar. RE has a rubber bushing, GC is urethane. Hmmm. Unfortunately, work prevents me from going to Devens this year. :-( Paul Andrews 98 M3/4 # 42 STU -----Original Message----- From: Rex Tener [mailto:rex_tener@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 4:07 PM To: Paul Andrews Cc: E36M3; Rex Tener Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU At 12:30 PM 4/16/2007, Paul Andrews wrote: >I'm running 255 Neovas in SCCA autox, and they rub the fender above the lip, >which is rolled. Yep, I had/have that problem too. :-) What size and offset are your rear wheels? >The stock arms are at max camber. So, I think I need adjustable >rear lower camber arms for my 98 M3/4. They have to be STU-legal, >so no hiem joints. The Ground Control ones look like the best; >steel, urethane inner bushing, easy to adjust. Any others I should look at? Here is what Rogue Engineering has available that looks to be legal for STU: <http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_ Code=ARCA&Category_Code=S> Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com PS: It was great to see all the list members and STU competitors at the Atwater National Tour this weekend.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 17:53:51 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU Paul, In the M3 I'm driving this year, we are using the UUC rear lower control arms for STU. The are very nicely made, and reasonably light weight compared to some of the other aftermarket arms. Chris > Hi Group, > I'm running 255 Neovas in SCCA autox, and they rub the fender above the lip, > which is rolled. The stock arms are at max camber. So, I think I need > adjustable rear lower camber arms for my 98 M3/4. They have to be > STU-legal, so no hiem joints. The Ground Control ones look like the best; > steel, urethane inner bushing, easy to adjust. Any others I should look at?
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 17:59:36 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU Um, just so I understand you right, the outer part of the fender is double-walled? I'm not talking about the trunk side, it's rubbing about 2" above the outer fender lip. Under hard compression, the tire clears the lip, then rubs on the part that angles in toward the center of the car. -Paul _____ From: Doug Wirth [mailto:doug_wirth@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 3:41 PM To: Paul Andrews; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU The rear fender is double walled, I just beat on mine from inside the wheel-well to move it in some. Doug ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Andrews <emosound@verizon.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 2:30:48 PM Subject: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 15:25:40 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: Rear camber arms for STU Hi Group, I'm running 255 Neovas in SCCA autox, and they rub the fender above the lip, which is rolled. The stock arms are at max camber. So, I think I need adjustable rear lower camber arms for my 98 M3/4. They have to be STU-legal, so no hiem joints. The Ground Control ones look like the best; steel, urethane inner bushing, easy to adjust. Any others I should look at? Paul Andrews 98 M3/4 # 42 STU ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com <http://www.turnermotorsport.com/> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com <http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com <http://www.rogueengineering.com/> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com <http://www.treehouseracing.com/> Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com <http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/> DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU/Fender Rub - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 18:00:22 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU/Fender Rub I'm very familiar with tire rub on STU cars. ;-) Choices to fix include: 1) Reduce toe-in 2) Increase camber 3) Raise ride height 4) Run stiffer springs 5) Live with it I've done all 5. ;-) Also, IMHO, the optimum wheel offset for STU legal fenders is 42-44mm. You are just to the outside of that, but not by much. Also, make sure ALL your rear bushings are in good shape. You may want to run poly subframe bushings. If I understand you on exactly where it is rubbing (outer fender, 12:00 position, sounds like #3 or #4 may help. Chris > Wheels are the D-Force LTW5, 17x9, 41mm offset. It's rubbing on full > compression, on the outside fender above the lip. What did you do to > lessen/fix the rub? > The RE and GC pieces look really similar. RE has a rubber bushing, GC is > urethane. Hmmm. > > Unfortunately, work prevents me from going to Devens this year. :-(