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#1. RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 10:54:45 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU At 02:20 PM 4/16/2007, Paul Andrews wrote: >Wheels are the D-Force LTW5, 17x9, 41mm offset. It's rubbing on full >compression, on the outside fender above the lip. What did you do to >lessen/fix the rub? Chris has already sent you the five step program. On my national STU car I ran 17 x 9 with 45mm offset. I tried no spacers (rubs in the inside), 5 mm spacers (rubs on the outside), and then 3 mm spacers (just about right). With 3mm spacers (42 mm net offset) I had minor upper fender rubbing on my full tread tires, but I never had rubbing with my shaved tires. Just one or two millimeters makes all the difference. Rex
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Exhaust Choices - from Gus Iverson
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 11:04:42 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Exhaust Choices Just want to add that I'm incredibly satisfied with my ANSA piece. It has a nice but not ridiculous growl to it that I understand can be heard by my fiance from about a half mile away in the evenings when I'm coming home. There is no drone to it at all and just sounds great when the car is started. It is also lighter than the stock piece, but I'm sure there are lighter ones. I chose it largely because the shop I worked with at the time wanted to evaluate the piece and gave me a deal on it, also promising that I could return it with a complete refund if unsatisfied. No real power gains, obviously, but the car did register 222.3 on a dynojet up here in the Seattle area a couple months ago with just the cat-back and shark injector installed. I'm quite pleased. Cold weather could have been helpful but a similar car with the same software ran at 218 but I'm not sure what exhaust was on the car. Well within the the likely error tolerance, I'd call it a wash.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Can't Remove Seat - from Jonathan L.
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 13:08:02 -0700 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Can't Remove Seat Thanks Gary, Sounds like a possible solution, if I can get decent access under there... AND figure out which motor is which. ;) Anyone else have direct experience with this problem in the E36, though I assume it's a pretty similar layout? Jonathan L. >From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> >Reply-To: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Can't Remove Seat >Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 11:10:48 -0500 > >Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 11:04:25 -0500 >From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Can't Remove Seat > >I have a somewhat similar problem on my 87 535is turbo... > >I figured out how to manually spin the adjuster if you can get to the motor >you should be able to spin it forward.. > >NOTE: be prepared, it's not even a remotely fast procedure..I had to rest >the hand twice it took so f'ing long to move the seat! > >Gary _________________________________________________________________ Interest Rates Fall Again! $430,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate new payment http://www.lowermybills.com/lre/index.jsp?sourceid=lmb-9632-18679&moid=7581
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: thermostat temp - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 21:12:53 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: thermostat temp This low temperature also accelerated the wear rate. Why does it accelerate wear, Kim? Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering -----Original Message----- From: kim.l.burgess@boeing.com To: e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 10:40 AM Subject: [E36M3] RE: thermostat temp Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 07:39:03 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: thermostat temp There was a lot of chatter here a couple years ago with regard to OE thermostat temps. What I have found in my cars is that my 99M3 (04/99 build) came with an OE 88C (=190.4F) T-Stat and my wife's 97 (9/96 build) came with a 92C (=197.6F) T-Stat. If I remember correctly that is also reflective of what realoem.com (ETK) indicates. I don't know what the S50/M50 came with but I'm guessing an 88C. After MY 95 I believe BMW bumped up the temp (at least in the non-M products) to help clean up emissions. A 71C (=159.8F) would be what I considered a 'race' T-Stat. In the days of my running small block Chevrolets there would be more available power from running a 160F T-Stat, I don't know if it holds true for the S50/S52. (This low temperature also accelerated the wear rate. ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
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#5. Windshield wipers stopping in wrong position - from David Ripton
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:12:38 -0700 From: David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> Subject: Windshield wipers stopping in wrong position Didn't see this one in the archives. My 1998 M3/4's windshield wipers are stopping in the wrong place. They work fine otherwise, but they think their home position is up instead of down. No amount of fiddling with the wiper controls reset it. Turning the car off with the wipers in the down position doesn't reset it either -- when the car is started they go back to the up position. Pulling the wiper fuse with the wipers down would certainly get them out of the way. :-> Anyone know how the wipers' stopping position is set? My guess would be that it's purely mechanical, and there's a nut somewhere that's backed halfway off, but I haven't started taking things apart yet to verify. Thanks. -- David Ripton dripton@ripton.net
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Windshield wipers stopping in wrong position - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 10:15:36 -0700 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Windshield wipers stopping in wrong position Have the wiper arms been removed at all recently? I'd suggest simply pulling the nuts off and removing both arms, then running the motor on intermittent and watching their movement. Make sure that, as you face the windshield from the outside, the mounting studs rotation starts off from the left, rotate right (up), then left (down), and then pauses. Per your description, they should be starting from the right and rotating left, then right. If that's the case, I really have no idea what to suggest except making sure the linkage underneath the windshield cowl cover isn't broken, loose, or clearly somehow bent causing an inversion of the direction of movement, and barring any problems there, trying to swap your wiper control module with another one that you might borrow from someone (located behind the glovebox). Perhaps someone else here can chime in with more details. HTH, Brian build 8/95 On 4/18/07, David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:12:38 -0700 > From: David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> > Subject: Windshield wipers stopping in wrong position > > Didn't see this one in the archives. > > My 1998 M3/4's windshield wipers are stopping in the wrong place. They > work fine otherwise, but they think their home position is up instead of > down. > > No amount of fiddling with the wiper controls reset it. Turning the car > off with the wipers in the down position doesn't reset it either -- when > the car is started they go back to the up position. Pulling the wiper > fuse with the wipers down would certainly get them out of the way. :-> > > Anyone know how the wipers' stopping position is set? My guess would be > that it's purely mechanical, and there's a nut somewhere that's backed > halfway off, but I haven't started taking things apart yet to verify. > > Thanks. > > -- > David Ripton dripton@ripton.net > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. Clucth Delay Valve - from Matt Bader
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 17:07:04 -0400 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: Clucth Delay Valve Hi Folks: I have seen two options for improving the performance of an E36 (96-99 M3) clutch w/lightweight flywheel set-up. I have the classic symptoms of the slow-responding Clutch Delay Valve (I believe also called "check valve" or "lock valve"). One option is to simply remove the valve as posted on UUC's tech section: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/check_valve.htm Or, optionally, replace the CDV with a modified valve that has the interior parts removed: http://www.zeckhausen.com/CDV.htm My mechanic thinks removal (cheaper solution) should be good enough. According to UUC, once removed, the hydraulic line can just go right into the slave cylinder with no additional parts needed. Not sure if I am comparing apples to apples here, but it appears like either solution will work. Any thoughts appreciated. Matt Bader 98 M3/4
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 17:06:25 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU So my 41mm offset is 1 mm closer to the outside of the car, thus rubbing more than yours. :-/ I might need a little more camber, then. Or a little push on the inner wall of the fender. Or more ride height. Hmm. This list is the best. Lots of relevant replies, from people in the know. Thank you, -Paul -----Original Message----- From: Rex Tener [mailto:rex_tener@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 1:55 PM To: Paul Andrews Cc: E36M3; Rex Tener Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear camber arms for STU At 02:20 PM 4/16/2007, Paul Andrews wrote: >Wheels are the D-Force LTW5, 17x9, 41mm offset. It's rubbing on full >compression, on the outside fender above the lip. What did you do to >lessen/fix the rub? Chris has already sent you the five step program. On my national STU car I ran 17 x 9 with 45mm offset. I tried no spacers (rubs in the inside), 5 mm spacers (rubs on the outside), and then 3 mm spacers (just about right). With 3mm spacers (42 mm net offset) I had minor upper fender rubbing on my full tread tires, but I never had rubbing with my shaved tires. Just one or two millimeters makes all the difference. Rex
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Clucth Delay Valve - from Brad DeMotte
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 17:18:49 -0500 From: "Brad DeMotte" <brad@demottearchitects.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Clucth Delay Valve Matt, If you read the Zeckhausen info, there is no reference to the CDV valve modification for an E36 M3, even though our cars have them. If you read further, you'll see 2 reasons why they prefer the modified CDV as opposed to eliminating it...fitment issues & warranty issues. Brad DeMotte '97 M3 cammed,sharked,lowered,yada yada yada -----Original Message----- From: Matt Bader [mailto:mbader@exammaster.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 4:06 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Clucth Delay Valve Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 17:07:04 -0400 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: Clucth Delay Valve Hi Folks: I have seen two options for improving the performance of an E36 (96-99 M3) clutch w/lightweight flywheel set-up. I have the classic symptoms of the slow-responding Clutch Delay Valve (I believe also called "check valve" or "lock valve"). One option is to simply remove the valve as posted on UUC's tech section: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/check_valve.htm Or, optionally, replace the CDV with a modified valve that has the interior parts removed: http://www.zeckhausen.com/CDV.htm My mechanic thinks removal (cheaper solution) should be good enough. According to UUC, once removed, the hydraulic line can just go right into the slave cylinder with no additional parts needed. Not sure if I am comparing apples to apples here, but it appears like either solution will work. Any thoughts appreciated. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Clucth Delay Valve - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:35:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Clucth Delay Valve Are there any E36s that are still covered under warranty? hahaha. I removed it and threw it away...no need for a modified piece. Chester --- Brad DeMotte <brad@demottearchitects.com> wrote: > If you read the Zeckhausen info, there is no reference to the CDV valve > modification for an E36 M3, even though our cars have them. If you read > further, you'll see 2 reasons why they prefer the modified CDV as opposed to > eliminating it...fitment issues & warranty issues.