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#1. Re: [E36M3] Car and Driver - from Grant Fairweather
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 12:32:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Grant Fairweather <grantfairweather@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Car and Driver >Looking for photocopies/scans of Car and Driver or other magazine >articles featuring the 1995 E36 M3 for club magazine (Zündfolge) article >to promote our PSR Club Concurs in July - Featured car this year is the >E36M3. >TIA >KLBurgess Kim - a year or so back, I sent "Doc Wyte" my original C&D mag with an article on the E36 M3. I dont believe Josh is on this list anymore, as he's moved on from an M3 to an Audi S4 Avant. He should be googleable though. Grant 98 M3/4
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#2. Re: [E36M3] CA Smog Test results -- 95 M3 LWT - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 12:33:14 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CA Smog Test results -- 95 M3 LWT On Wed, May 30, 2007 12:05 pm, Andrew Kalman wrote: > Note that in both cases, it just barely passed HC (83 & 84 out of a > permissible 85) at low rpm. As a note, I too barely passed HC at low rpm (and was close at high rpm as well) last Sept. But I have a known-bad cat as well as high oil consumption. I would guess you have a cat on it's last legs. I've got 102,000 miles on the current (2nd) cat. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP - oddly, "cleaner" than the M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Tools for head R&R - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 12:33:56 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tools for head R&R That _is_ very nice of Mark ... when I did this I bought all my tools on eBay for around $400 or so ... plus that expensive Snap-On angle protractor and a 3/8 Craftsman micro-torue wrench ... then I did the whole job three times because the first head gasket wouldn't seal and I damaged the VANOS cable the second time 'round ... but third time's a charm! --Andrew >Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 15:07:53 -0400 >From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tools for head R&R > >Funny, > >I thought I was being a hard-ass on you guys for not charging $25. I'm >not a business after all, just a guy with a now well-running M3 hoping I >don't need them for a while :-P > >But thanks :) > >Thanks, >Mark > > >On Wed, 2007-05-30 at 13:15 -0500, Jay G wrote: >> Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 08:10:40 -1000 >> From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tools for head R&R >> >> wow, that's pretty generous of you...i dont need the tools, but i'm just >> amazed at you generosity towards the list...thanx! >> >> Mark Duckworth wrote: >> >> > I've decided I'll rent out my tools (all OE except the cam locks and TDC >> > pin) for $35 for 1+ months (plus shipping). Part of that low price > > > includes a sincere promise to return them eventually. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] CA Smog Test results -- 95 M3 LWT - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 12:38:33 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CA Smog Test results -- 95 M3 LWT Well, my cat has only 19,200 miles on it and it's 12 years old, but it has been mostly track miles ... dunno how badly they deteriorate when you're running WOT most of the time ... I have seen cats "burn off" in the form of the ceramic honeycomb "shrinking" from its original size down to an egg-sized remainder, but you could hear it rattling around inside its case so you knew something wasn't right .... in my case, the cats still seem whole. >On Wed, May 30, 2007 12:05 pm, Andrew Kalman wrote: >> Note that in both cases, it just barely passed HC (83 & 84 out of a >> permissible 85) at low rpm. > >As a note, I too barely passed HC at low rpm (and was close at high rpm as >well) last Sept. But I have a known-bad cat as well as high oil >consumption. I would guess you have a cat on it's last legs. I've got >102,000 miles on the current (2nd) cat. > >Jim Bassett >1998 M3/4 >1993 325is #44 JP - oddly, "cleaner" than the M3 -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Car and Driver - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 12:38:44 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Car and Driver On Wed, May 30, 2007 11:45 am, Burgess, Kim L wrote: > Looking for photocopies/scans of Car and Driver or other magazine articles > featuring the 1995 E36 M3 for club magazine (Zündfolge) article to > promote our PSR Club Concurs in July - Featured car this year is the > E36M3. I might have the PDF on my home computer - I'll check tonight. Or not :-) Jim Bassett
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#6. Re: [E36M3] CA Smog Test results -- 95 M3 LWT - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 12:56:47 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CA Smog Test results -- 95 M3 LWT On Wed, May 30, 2007 12:45 pm, Andrew Kalman wrote: > Well, my cat has only 19,200 miles on it and it's 12 years old, but > it has been mostly track miles ... dunno how badly they deteriorate > when you're running WOT most of the time ... Good question. The original cat was replaced (under warranty) due to rattling/break-up. The 2nd one was on the M3 for the last 10 months of its track use, the rest as been daily driving. FWIW, the race car's cat is original AFAIK, and has 125,000+ miles on it. And the car has been a track/race car since ~1998. It gets checked again later this year, so we'll see how that goes. Anyway, your M3's progression of HC output appears similar to what I've experienced. Just thought I give you heads-up on a possible issue for 2 years hence :-) Jim Bassett
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#7. [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices - from bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 15:27:00 -0700 (PDT) From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> Subject: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices OK, I'm not an EE (but am a Comp Eng - close enough, right?) but the experience that taught me what I consider the best way to splice into a wire midway came from commercial fishing boats. I can't count how many times something on a boat's failed due to bad splices that either came apart or corroded. First, we're assuming that it's impractical to use the same point of origin as the wire being spliced into. If at all possible that's the preferred method. Short version - remove insulation, solder wires, paint with liquid insulation. Long version: Use a straight edged razor and roll the wire over the edge of it, cutting through the insulation. If it's a very small wire, don't press too hard or you can cut some of the conductors (really only applies to wires smaller than what's used in automotive applications) Move down the wire far enough to allow for the room needed when you solder on the wire being spliced in, and do the same roll the wire procedure there, then slice the insulation lengthwise between the two cuts and remove it. Strip the end of the wire being spliced into this wire, then using good quality electrical solder, solder the two together. Consider the direction the new wire will be running to determine which way you orient it when you solder it on. Don't be shy about using enough heat to avoid a cold solder joint. Don't worry if the insulation close to the joint shrivels or melts some, that'll be covered over in the next step. Paint the soldered joint with liquid insulation (can buy it at Home Depot), overlapping the existing insulation. Don't even think of just using electrical tape - get a can of this stuff, it seals the joint, doesn't unwrap later, etc. Voila! A mechanically and electrically sound connection that moisture can't get into and cause corrosion. >Speaking of hack electrical jobs... :-) > >What is the preferred method for tying into a wire to get a signal? >i.e. Installing a sequential shift light and you need to splice into >an existing wire from the instrument cluster. > >I've used those 3M connectors that can cut into two wires but I strip >the wire I'm tying into before clamping onto it and then I electrical >tape it shut so it won't open up on me accidentally. I've never much >cared for those but what do the EE's prefer to see? > >Carlos >98 M3 has a few of those in it from the aftermarket radio and now my >Spa gauges
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#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 15:45:05 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices Hi, I guess the CompE description will do. 8-) That's how an EE, that would be me, would do it. Those crimp on things are a last resort. I'd also like to add, a portable, i.e. butane or "Cold Heat" soldering iron is a must to have in the tool kit where a regular soldering iron is not practical. Electrical tape is good for temporary stuff but if you need something permanent use the liq. tape stuff. Kent On May 30, 2007, at 3:35 PM, <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> <bnmhead- bmw@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 15:27:00 -0700 (PDT) > From: <bnmhead-bmw@yahoo.com> > Subject: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices > > OK, I'm not an EE (but am a Comp Eng - close enough, right?) but > the experience that taught me what I consider the best way to > splice into a wire midway came from commercial fishing boats. I > can't count how many times something on a boat's failed due to bad > splices that either came apart or corroded. > > First, we're assuming that it's impractical to use the same point > of origin as the wire being spliced into. If at all possible that's > the preferred method. > > Short version - remove insulation, solder wires, paint with > liquid insulation. > > Long version: Use a straight edged razor and roll the wire over > the edge of it, cutting through the insulation. If it's a very > small wire, don't press too hard or you can cut some of the > conductors (really only applies to wires smaller than what's used > in automotive applications) Move down the wire far enough to allow > for the room needed when you solder on the wire being spliced in, > and do the same roll the wire procedure there, then slice the > insulation lengthwise between the two cuts and remove it. Strip the > end of the wire being spliced into this wire, then using good > quality electrical solder, solder the two together. Consider the > direction the new wire will be running to determine which way you > orient it when you solder it on. Don't be shy about using enough > heat to avoid a cold solder joint. Don't worry if the insulation > close to the joint shrivels or melts some, that'll be covered over > in the next step. Paint the soldered joint with liquid insulation > (can buy it at > Home Depot), overlapping the existing insulation. Don't even think > of just using electrical tape - get a can of this stuff, it seals > the joint, doesn't unwrap later, etc. > > Voila! A mechanically and electrically sound connection that > moisture can't get into and cause corrosion. > > >> Speaking of hack electrical jobs... :-) >> >> What is the preferred method for tying into a wire to get a signal? >> i.e. Installing a sequential shift light and you need to splice into >> an existing wire from the instrument cluster. >> >> I've used those 3M connectors that can cut into two wires but I strip >> the wire I'm tying into before clamping onto it and then I electrical >> tape it shut so it won't open up on me accidentally. I've never much >> cared for those but what do the EE's prefer to see? >> >> Carlos >> 98 M3 has a few of those in it from the aftermarket radio and now my >> Spa gauges > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 19:20:39 -0400 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices On 5/30/07, Kent L. Shephard <e36m3@kshephard.com> wrote: > Those crimp on things are a last resort. I'd also like to add, a > portable, i.e. butane or "Cold Heat" soldering iron is > a must to have in the tool kit where a regular soldering iron is not > practical. > Electrical tape is good for temporary stuff but if you need something > permanent use the liq. tape stuff. Thanks fellas. BTW I have one of those Cold Heat thingies and it works as well as racing slicks on snow. =:-0 Could be operator error but holy crap is it difficult to get the solder to flow with that thing. I bought a butane soldering iron to use instead. Off to buy liquid tape from Homey DaPot. Carlos 98 M3
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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices - from David Thomas
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 16:40:18 -0700 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Good wiring practices On Wednesday 30 May 2007 4:25:04 pm Carlos Lopez wrote: > > BTW I have one of those Cold Heat thingies and it works as well as > racing slicks on snow. =:-0 > > Could be operator error but holy crap is it difficult to get the > solder to flow with that thing. I bought a butane soldering iron to > use instead. Off to buy liquid tape from Homey DaPot. Cant speak about the Cold Heat thingie but the main reason for poor 'flow' with any iron is a dirty tip. Gotta clean that sucker constantly. If any of you are looking for a really nice iron at a great price check out the Goot irons. You can use Hako components with the Goots..at least with the ceramic heater ones I have used. At $35 the goot PX-336 whoops $150 Weller solder stations...very impressive iron for the money. http://www.bomir.com/online/?sub=50 Dave "races RC cars so I solder constantly" Thomas