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#1. coolant temp., e-fan..... - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:31:39 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: coolant temp., e-fan..... > > From: loweseaton@aol.com > > Mark - yes you can, it is called the "defroster".? Every car made in the > last 15+ years uses the A/C when you are in DEFROST mode.? Not necessarily, many cars don't automatically turn on the A/C just because you select the defroster mode. For that matter, my E36 M3 doesn't turn on the A/C when you select the defrost mode. But I agree, running the A/C dries the incoming air and when the air is humid, this is much more effective at defrosting and/or eliminating condensation on the windshield. Ever notice how the "Defrost" mode is down by the A/C settings?? The reason > is warm dry air is better than warm moist air for defrosting windows.? The > A/C dehumidifies the air.? You?then use the temperature setting to control > the air temperature.? You can defrost with COLD dry air or HOT dry air.? > Same for the dash panel vents.? You can blow COLD dry air out of the vents > or HOT dry air - you choose.? In fact, most cars have a split mode where you > can blow HOT dry air out of the floor vent and COLD dry air out of the dash > vents. Could you possibly misuse a few more question marks???? ;-) Regards, Rich
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#2. RE: [E36M3] coolant temp., e-fan..... - from Matt Bader
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 19:13:44 -0400 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] coolant temp., e-fan..... The defrosting capability of the a/c system is one reason I have hesitated from pulling it out of my car to save weight, and get the condenser out between the intercooler and the radiator. A/c also works great when you are driving in rainy, humid conditions, as well as cold. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Rich Dorffer [mailto:E36M3Digest@gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 6:38 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] coolant temp., e-fan..... Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:31:39 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: coolant temp., e-fan..... > > From: loweseaton@aol.com > > Mark - yes you can, it is called the "defroster".? Every car made in the > last 15+ years uses the A/C when you are in DEFROST mode.? Not necessarily, many cars don't automatically turn on the A/C just because you select the defroster mode. For that matter, my E36 M3 doesn't turn on the A/C when you select the defrost mode. But I agree, running the A/C dries the incoming air and when the air is humid, this is much more effective at defrosting and/or eliminating condensation on the windshield. Ever notice how the "Defrost" mode is down by the A/C settings?? The reason > is warm dry air is better than warm moist air for defrosting windows.? The > A/C dehumidifies the air.? You?then use the temperature setting to control > the air temperature.? You can defrost with COLD dry air or HOT dry air.? > Same for the dash panel vents.? You can blow COLD dry air out of the vents > or HOT dry air - you choose.? In fact, most cars have a split mode where you > can blow HOT dry air out of the floor vent and COLD dry air out of the dash > vents. Could you possibly misuse a few more question marks???? ;-) Regards, Rich ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. Re: [E36M3] coolant temp., e-fan..... - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 23:46:21 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] coolant temp., e-fan..... I should have known better than to talk about defroster functionality. :-) I live in Dallas, Texas - we get about 10 days a year below freezing. I refuse to drive my Toyo RA-1 shod M3 in the cold or snow or sleet. And all of my cars are garaged so no scrapping frost for me. Needless to say it has been years since I last used the defroster in my M3. ;-) That said, I have a 1995 E36 M3 with manual rotary HVAC controls. If I push the A/C or Recirc button, the A/C compressor (and auxiliary fan) come on regardless of the temperature or vent outlet knobs. I don't know how the HVAC works with the 96'+ automatic climate control. It might have been a slight exaggeration to say all newer cars tie the defrost mode to the A/C but not by much. Remember the E36 model first came out in 1992 (right?) so it is essentially a 15+ year old design. I got into this argument simply arguing that you can turn on the A/C and turn the temperature to HOT if you think your engine is overheating. Why you would do this is another question. Just turning on the heater to HOT is probably enough. You might turn on the A/C if you are not moving and you want to draw a little more air through the radiator. But if I am stopped and my car is overheating, I just turn the motor off and open the hood. <grin> Yeah, as of the question marks ????, I don't know where they came from. AOL formatting error. I certainly didn't type them. I wondered if other people saw them - guess so. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, TX - don't need a defroster but I will soon need a row boat if it doesn't stop raining! --------------------------------------------------------- In a message dated 7/12/07 5:38:38 PM Central Daylight Time, E36M3Digest@gmail.com writes: Not necessarily, many cars don't automatically turn on the A/C just because you select the defroster mode. For that matter, my E36 M3 doesn't turn on the A/C when you select the defrost mode. But I agree, running the A/C dries the incoming air and when the air is humid, this is much more effective at defrosting and/or eliminating condensation on the windshield. Could you possibly misuse a few more question marks???? ;-) Regards, Rich ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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#4. Re: [E36M3] coolant temp., e-fan..... - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 08:31:14 -0400 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] coolant temp., e-fan..... On 7/12/07, LoweSeaton@aol.com <LoweSeaton@aol.com> wrote: > 1992 (right?) so it is essentially a 15+ year old design. I got into this > argument simply arguing that you can turn on the A/C and turn the temperature > to HOT if you think your engine is overheating. Why you would do this is > another question. Just turning on the heater to HOT is probably enough. You > might turn on the A/C if you are not moving and you want to draw a little more > air through the radiator. What about the extra load on the engine from the compressor? Reminds me of the Seinfeld episode where Kramer is trying to keep his blood bank blood cool but the Saab is overheating. :-) > But if I am stopped and my car is overheating, I > just turn the motor off and open the hood. <grin> Agreed. I drove home from IN on Sunday and it was pretty toasty outside (96-97 F). As soon as I reached bumper to bumper traffic in MI I shut off the a/c and noticed that once the car was moving again at the same speed as before the car was running a bit cooler. Both coolant and oil temps were lower with the a/c off. I turned it back on when I couldn't stand it anymore and both temps went up. Carlos 98 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] possible cooling system issue - from Mark Duckworth
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Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 10:01:39 -0400 From: Mark Duckworth <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] possible cooling system issue Marty, This won't tell you too much but you can hook a pressure tester up to it and pressurize the system. The leak may only be when the engine is hot rather than cold if it's the engine. You could leave it pressurized overnight and see if you lose pressure or have any coolant on the floor. Autozone, etc rents them but you'll have to find an adapter (local BMW mechanic is usually a good place to start). Thanks, Mark On Tue, 2007-07-10 at 19:18 -0500, marty wrote: > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 20:18:21 -0400 > From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] possible cooling system issue > > It was still warm when i opened it and it was pressurized. I opened it > just now and it's not pressurized - it's completely cool but it's been > sitting for two days. The coolant level has dropped a bit from when i > filled it 10 days ago - on the Cold line to now right below the > letters. I wonder if there's a teeny leak by the cap preventing it from > pressurizing correctly? Maybe I should put the original reservoir back > on. I'd replaced it as a preventive measure and because I couldn't see > through it but can't see through this new one much better. > > marty > > Peter Loron wrote: > > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 14:25:12 -0700 > > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] possible cooling system issue > > > > Was the cooling system still pressurized after letting it completely cool > > off? > > > > -Pete > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#6. door lock connectors - from Reed Nicholson
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Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 11:06:16 -0700 From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> Subject: door lock connectors I'm trying to get the electrical connector off my door lock to clean it, since the lock has become intermittent lately. I can't tell from looking which way I'm supposed to tug on it, or where to squeeze to get it to release. Hard to get my fingers inside the door frame to get a good hold on it. Does anyone remember exactly where/how to grip it and which way to pull? Reed/Seattle
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#7. Re: [E36M3] door lock connectors - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 11:51:25 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] door lock connectors On Sat, July 14, 2007 11:09 am, Reed Nicholson wrote: > I'm trying to get the electrical connector off my door lock to clean it, > since the lock has become intermittent lately. I can't tell from looking > which way I'm supposed to tug on it, or where to squeeze to get it to > release. Hard to get my fingers inside the door frame to get a good hold > on > it. Does anyone remember exactly where/how to grip it and which way to > pull? Are you talking about the door lock actuator? IIRC, it's a slide-lock. You need to grip the connector and slide it up (or down) to get it to release, then the connector will pull out. If you've ever removed the radio, it's a similar connector. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
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#8. A/C OIl - from Mark D
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Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 17:33:25 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: A/C OIl Hey guys, I was checking out a family member's non-working a/c system and I decided to put the gauges on my working M3 in order to see what a working system looked like to try to get a feel for what could have been wrong with his. Unfortunately the valve on high side wasn't fully tightened down (mostly) but for a second or so some refridgerant vented on the high side (with the car off). There's probably an ounce of oil that escaped. Do I need to add oil now or is this a miniscule amount of oil relatively? On the bright side my M3's readings looked pretty good in a cool garage, 32psi on the low side 150psi on the high side. Thanks, Mark
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#9. OBD scan tool fell apart - from Alex Demsky
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Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 23:24:20 -0400 From: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> Subject: OBD scan tool fell apart So I got a CE light tonight(which its been a really long time) so I got my trusty code reader out of my glove compartment and plugged it in. Read the codes, erased them yadda yadda. Then when I pulled it off, two pins stuck in the engine bay part and wires got pulled out of the code reader. I pulled the two pins out of the engine bay part and stuck the wires from the reader back in them and then pushed them back in the reader. Its all back together now but wondering if this has happened to anyone else before? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 07 BMW 335i ~ [url]http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Hyper335.html[/url] 97 BMW S/C M3 ~ [url]http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html[/url] 07 Ducati 695 ~ [url]http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Ducati695.html[/url] _________________________________________________________________ http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
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#10. Re: Replacing Intake Manifold? - from kim.burgess@att.net
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Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 03:41:47 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: Re: Replacing Intake Manifold? Is this list of parts different for the S50/S52 or is it the same? From: marty Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Replacing Intake Manifold? Here is the list of parts I replaced while I had the intake manifold off.. It should be complete for what I did. The prices are what I paid, mostly at the dealer (Crown BMW) with club discount. The heater hoses with price of $0 are ones I already had from the Bimmerworld hose kit. The gaskets supplied as part of the Eurosport adapter kit are missing here. IIRC, that would be the throttle body to intake manifold and intake manifold to head profile gaskets. Part description/ Part # / quantity /price each Non-ASC intake boot 13-54-1-703-588 1.0 22.99 Intake boot clamp (L77-84mm) 07-12-9-952-131 1.0 2.91 Profile gasket (throttle body/intake manifold) 11-61-1-716-174 1.0 5.60 Heater hose (head/heater control valve) 64-21-1-394-293 1.0 0.00 Heater hose (return pipe/heater control valve) 11-53-1-703-844 1.0 0.00 Heater hose (throttle body) 13-54-1-703-945 1.0 0.00 Heater hose (throttle body) 13-54-1-703-865 1.0 0.00 Vacuum hose, meter, white (intake/emissions control solenoid) 11-74-7-797-177 1.0 4.96 Vacuum hose, blue (installed between air pump check valve and hard-line) 11-73-1-435-335 1.0 16.24 Vacuum hose, blue (emissions control solenoid to hard line from air valve check valve) 11-73-1-714-217 1.0 7.01 hose, fuel vapor purge valve to manifold (didn't receive this one) 1.0 Heater hose (heater control valve/firewall) 64-21-1-394-291 1.0 8.00 Heater hose (heater control valve/firewall) 64-21-1-394-292 1.0 8.00 Vent hose (oil separator/dipstick) 11-15-1-740-393 1.0 10.72 O-ring (dipstick) 11-43-1-740-045 1.0 0.72 O-ring (manifold air temp sensor) 13-62-1-743-299 1.0 0.42 Idle control/crankcase ventilator cover (for Eurosport adapter - mine was an oddity) 11-61-1-703-778 1.0 15.44 Vent pipe (manifold/idle control valve) 11-15-1-703-775 1.0 20.85 Gasket -- idle control/crankcase vent cover 11-61-1-703-779 1.0 7.28 Hose (ICV/intake boot) 13-41-1-435-781 1.0 9.84 Rubber sleeve (grommets in ventilator cover) 13-41-1-733-217 2.0 10.24 Hex nut (manifold support) 07-12-9-900-644 2.0 0.32 Cap -- plugged manifold vacuum port 11-61-1-437-560 1.0 1.49 rubber mounts (for fuel evap thing on driver strut tower) 11-72-1-704-532 2.0 16.24