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#1. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:05:54 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo On Fri, July 20, 2007 10:00 am, Gus Iverson wrote: > So here's a related question - I picked up a CD43 from a list member > (and it works just great) but I haven't been able to get the mounting > / attachment screws in the face plate to mate up with the factory > install points. It *appears* to me that they aren't set in the same > place as the C33 in their previously. Pictures? Mine slid in and was secured just fine. It sticks out from the dash 1-2mm more than the C33 did, but it's secure. Make sure it's in all the way, and tighten the hex screws. It's that simple :-) You may need to straighten the cabling so that it has a straight-shot to the back of the dash as you slide the unit in, but other than that the CD43 fits in the same slot as the C33. Jim Bassett
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement - from Mark D
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:05:40 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement Dat Quach wrote: > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:04:22 -0500 > From: "Dat Quach" <quachd@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement > > >>> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:32:16 -0700 >>> From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> >>> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement >>> >>> That's my plan! I assume no one on the suzy list has used DrVanos' units >>> before. I guess I'll take one for the team! ;) >>> <snip> >>> >>> -kelvin >>> > > Actually, I have the http://www.drvanos.com unit and it's made my VANOS > *much* more quiet than it was before. Previously, I could hear the rattle > if I were driving close to curbs due to the sound bouncing off and coming > back in to the cabin (yes, it was pretty loud). I've put 4k miles on the > unit including two track days here in Texas without any problems. Chris is > a very helpful and friendly guy to boot. > > Dat > > Does the vanos manifest itself as a whistle, or any sound other than marbles in a can? I mean I have had rhythmic tapping sometimes, my clutch/flywheel makes a superballs in a can kind of sound (low hollow knocking) but the one thing that drives me insane is that I have a whistle. I've replaced everything but the alternator and have noticed that the alternator is starting to not be able to put up with my stereo system at traffic lights so I'm guessing it's shot. In general it's just a lot noisier than a 325 I just recently heard, but sounded an awful lot like other M3's I heard so they might just be noisy engines. Thanks, Mark
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement - from Mpower
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:17:13 -0700 From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement Mine is a "marble in the can" sound. Drives me insane when I pull into my garage and I can hear it bouncing off the walls. Sounds like a diesel! =P --------- Original Message -------- From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement Date: 07/20/07 11:12 > > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:05:40 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement > > Dat Quach wrote: > > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:04:22 -0500 > > From: "Dat Quach" <quachd@gmail.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement > > > > > >>> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:32:16 -0700 > >>> From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> > >>> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement > >>> > >>> That's my plan! I assume no one on the suzy list has used DrVanos' units > >>> before. I guess I'll take one for the team! ;) > >>> <snip> > >>> > >>> -kelvin > >>> > > > > Actually, I have the http://www.drvanos.com unit and it's made my VANOS > > *much* more quiet than it was before. Previously, I could hear the rattle > > if I were driving close to curbs due to the sound bouncing off and coming > > back in to the cabin (yes, it was pretty loud). I've put 4k miles on the > > unit including two track days here in Texas without any problems. Chris is > > a very helpful and friendly guy to boot. > > > > Dat > > > > > Does the vanos manifest itself as a whistle, or any sound other than > marbles in a can? I mean I have had rhythmic tapping sometimes, my > clutch/flywheel makes a superballs in a can kind of sound (low hollow > knocking) but the one thing that drives me insane is that I have a > whistle. I've replaced everything but the alternator and have noticed > that the alternator is starting to not be able to put up with my stereo > system at traffic lights so I'm guessing it's shot. In general it's > just a lot noisier than a 325 I just recently heard, but sounded an > awful lot like other M3's I heard so they might just be noisy engines. > > Thanks, > Mark > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > ________________________________________________ Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.10
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#4. Knock Sensor #2 - from Kirk
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:51:43 -0700 From: "Kirk" <admranger@earthlink.net> Subject: Knock Sensor #2 Is this the 'hard' one (gotta take intake off) or the 'easy' one (can replace if you are nimble and have smallish arms/hands) to replace? My motor threw the dreaded 1226 code at the last race, so assuming the connector didn't come loose, I need to replace this. Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from marty
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 14:07:50 -0400 From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo Make sure you have the screws out at or near their stops before you try to mate them. Like Jim said, it fits. Talking about radio replacements brings up yet another related question. On my car, and a '95 325i I looked at for comparison, the wiring harness connection to the rear of the radio doesn't have a way to secure the connection to the radio. It looks obvious that there is supposed to be one of those sliding, squeezing lock gizmos there. Is that the case? I suppose they are easy to break and the two I've looked at are broken? If so does anyone know how to fix it? I'm thinking I might have to get a new harness connector and, if possible, transfer the locking mechanism or swap connectors. regards, marty Gus Iverson wrote: > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 09:50:55 -0700 > From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo > > So here's a related question - I picked up a CD43 from a list member > (and it works just great) but I haven't been able to get the mounting > / attachment screws in the face plate to mate up with the factory > install points. It *appears* to me that they aren't set in the same > place as the C33 in their previously. > > I've pushed and shoved the thing while turning it with the 2.5mm hex > with no joy. > > Of course, I am a mechanical idiot...
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:15:11 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo On Fri, July 20, 2007 11:10 am, marty wrote: > It looks obvious that there is > supposed to be one of those sliding, squeezing lock gizmos there. Is > that the case? I think so. > I suppose they are easy to break and the two I've looked > at are broken? I managed to break the one in the M3 during the CD43 install :-( > If so does anyone know how to fix it? I'm thinking I might have to get > a new harness connector and, if possible, transfer the locking mechanism > or swap connectors. At home I have the p/n for the connector, which includes the sliding lock.. It is removable/replaceable, if you're careful :-) I'll try to remember to email you the p/n sometime soon :-) (FWIW, I could not find the p/n in the ETK, even though I *had* the p/n :-) IIRC, my mechanic had some small difficulty finding the number as well. Others may be better at ETK-navigation.) Jim Bassett
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from Gus Iverson
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:44:18 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo I busted mine when putting in the CD43, too. The plastic is very brittle and it seems that a lot of heat is transferred to that area through the firewall which probably causes it. On 7/20/07, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:15:11 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo > > On Fri, July 20, 2007 11:10 am, marty wrote: > > It looks obvious that there is > > supposed to be one of those sliding, squeezing lock gizmos there. Is > > that the case? > > I think so. > > > I suppose they are easy to break and the two I've looked > > at are broken? > > I managed to break the one in the M3 during the CD43 install :-( > > > If so does anyone know how to fix it? I'm thinking I might have to get > > a new harness connector and, if possible, transfer the locking mechanism > > or swap connectors. > > At home I have the p/n for the connector, which includes the sliding lock.. > It is removable/replaceable, if you're careful :-) I'll try to remember to > email you the p/n sometime soon :-) > > (FWIW, I could not find the p/n in the ETK, even though I *had* the p/n > :-) IIRC, my mechanic had some small difficulty finding the number as > well. Others may be better at ETK-navigation.) > > Jim Bassett > >
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#8. RE: Removing Factory Stereo - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 12:01:02 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Removing Factory Stereo I think the new heat unit is shipped with the 'clamps' fully retracted. I had to turn the wrench several revolutions to seat the clamps. But they did seat, I think. Getting the new heat unit to go in to the open was my challenge. -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 09:50:55 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo So here's a related question - I picked up a CD43 from a list member (and it works just great) but I haven't been able to get the mounting / attachment screws in the face plate to mate up with the factory install points. It *appears* to me that they aren't set in the same place as the C33 in their previously. I've pushed and shoved the thing while turning it with the 2.5mm hex with no joy. Of course, I am a mechanical idiot...
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:43:23 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo In a message dated 7/20/2007 2:50:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gus.iverson@gmail.com writes: I busted mine when putting in the CD43, too. The plastic is very brittle and it seems that a lot of heat is transferred to that area through the firewall which probably causes it. Well, me too. Yes, that plastic was brittle. Gus, Mine would not slide all the way back, about 1-2mm short of being flush. I noticed a bracket way back in the space with a small hole in the middle. The CD43 has a 'thingy' sticking out the back that is suppose to fit in the whole -- I guess to secure the fitment. Mine was too large in diameter to fit properly in the hole (minds out of the gutter here), so I unscrewed it -- swapped it for the one in my C33 and BINGO -- a perfect fit. Hope that helps, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor #2 - from David Thomas
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:21:52 -0700 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor #2 On Friday 20 July 2007 11:00:09 am Kirk wrote: > Is this the 'hard' one (gotta take intake off) or the 'easy' one (can > replace if you are nimble and have smallish arms/hands) to replace? My > motor threw the dreaded 1226 code at the last race, so assuming the > connector didn't come loose, I need to replace this. You would need some real child sized hands to be able to remove either of them with the manifold in place. Removing the manifold is super easy on these cars so I would highly suggest removing it and replacing both sensors...if one is bad the other wont be far behind. Dave