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#1. Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor #2 - from M540
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 20:04:02 -0400 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor #2 For what it's worth, I got a knock sensor #2 code a while back on our '95 M3 and while doing the obligatory archive/forum research I came across a significant number of comments indicating this code was often NOT resolved simply by replacing the supposedly bad sensor. As of a few months ago I couldn't find any consensus as to what the real problem was in these cases. (Of course I've used this as an excuse to ignore my problem so far...) If you have luck clearing this code please let me know what ends up working! Thank you, Kevin -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:21:52 -0700 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor #2 On Friday 20 July 2007 11:00:09 am Kirk wrote: > Is this the 'hard' one (gotta take intake off) or the 'easy' one (can > replace if you are nimble and have smallish arms/hands) to replace? Â My > motor threw the dreaded 1226 code at the last race, so assuming the > connector didn't come loose, I need to replace this. You would need some real child sized hands to be able to remove either of them with the manifold in place. Removing the manifold is super easy on these cars so I would highly suggest removing it and replacing both sensors...if one is bad the other wont be far behind. Dave ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: Knock Sensor #2 - from Adam Lazur
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:28:32 -0700 From: Adam Lazur <adam@lazur.org> Subject: Re: Knock Sensor #2 More "for what it's worth" info. I've seen this code on my '95 M3 a few times at track days. Thus far it has always happened in the paddock at the end of the day. My car stumbles when idling at low rpms and the CEL comes on. The stumble goes away when I shut off the car and restart it (must be a software bug if rebooting helps ;) I've cleared the code in the paddock, and it doesn't get logged again. I too have researched it, found inconclusive results, and thus far have chosen to ignore it. If I don't think about it, maybe it'll go away? ;) -- Adam Lazur
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor #2 - from David Thomas
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:34:12 -0700 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor #2 On Friday 20 July 2007 5:10:09 pm M540 wrote: > For what it's worth, I got a knock sensor #2 code a while back on our '95 > M3 and while doing the obligatory archive/forum research I came across a > significant number of comments indicating this code was often NOT resolved > simply by replacing the supposedly bad sensor. As of a few months ago I > couldn't find any consensus as to what the real problem was in these cases. > (Of course I've used this as an excuse to ignore my problem so far...) If > you have luck clearing this code please let me know what ends up working! If your sensors are original I think the odds of them being bad are pretty high. The plastic on the OBDI sensors tends to crack and expose the 'guts' of the knock sensor...if you remove yours I would imagine that you would find the housing so brittle that you could just peel it off where it is cracked. Both of mine were bad at 95K. Replacing them solved the intermittent knock sensor codes I would get. They are cheap enough that if you think yours might be bad and they are old (over 80K) just change 'em. The last thing you want are knock sensors telling the DME to retard timing when you dont need it, or worse, not telling the DME to retard timing when you do ;-) Dave T.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:51:34 -0700 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement I watched the videos on the Dr VANOS site, but I did have one comment: It seems that many times, when people have had their VANOS replaced, the mechanics very rarely replace the intake cam gear when changing out the VANOS unit. I believe this is the primary reason for continued noise after replacment, since the VANOS actuation gear has worn the gear splines in the intake cam after thousands of miles of use. The VANOS continues to rattle, and is even further affected by lower oil pressure common on older, more worn engines who have not had new oil pumps installed. I had my unit replaced 2 years ago and the noise did not go away. :( That was an expensive repair. The videos are very impressive, however.... Brian build 8/95 On 7/20/07, Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> wrote: > > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:17:13 -0700 > From: Mpower <mpower@obikwan.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: VANOS replacement > > Mine is a "marble in the can" sound. Drives me insane when I pull into my > garage and I can hear it bouncing off the walls. Sounds like a > diesel! =P
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:25:53 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo At 11:20 AM 7/20/2007, Jim Bassett wrote: >At home I have the p/n for the connector, which includes the sliding lock.. >It is removable/replaceable, if you're careful :-) I'll try to remember to >email you the p/n sometime soon :-) Since a couple of people asked about it, here's the p/n for the plug housing: 61 13 1 390 416 Price was ~$8. As mentioned, it's the complete housing for the end of the wire harness - the slide-lock is removable, with care. Happy repairing! Jim Bassett
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#6. Lots of stuff for sale - from Marco
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Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 00:46:18 -0700 From: "Marco" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: Lots of stuff for sale http://www.justracing.com/classified/698 Or http://www.corsa-na.com/Parts%20Main thanks Marco
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:29:12 -0700 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo Heheh... Thanks Jim! How about the p/n for the pins for the car side of the harness? :-P I've been looking for that for a while... Brian On 7/20/07, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:25:53 -0700 > From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo > > At 11:20 AM 7/20/2007, Jim Bassett wrote: > >At home I have the p/n for the connector, which includes the sliding > lock.. > >It is removable/replaceable, if you're careful :-) I'll try to remember > to > >email you the p/n sometime soon :-) > > Since a couple of people asked about it, here's the p/n for the plug > housing: > 61 13 1 390 416 > > Price was ~$8. > > As mentioned, it's the complete housing for the end of the wire harness - > the slide-lock is removable, with care. > > Happy repairing! > > Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:59:05 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Factory Stereo On Sat, July 21, 2007 7:30 pm, Brian Ruiz wrote: > Thanks Jim! > How about the p/n for the pins for the car side of the harness? :-P I've > been looking for that for a while... Sorry, don't have that number. I'll if my mechanic that got the plug number can get those. Probably an Amp or Molex part though, as most of the BMW connectors are made by either of those companies. You could probably look through the respective web sites for the appropriate pins, if they're a generally-available part. Jim Bassett
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#9. SRS light - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 07:35:31 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: SRS light I had to take the steering wheel off to take the instrument cluster out as I had a couple bulbs burn out. The airbag / SRS light is now on and remains lit. Can you reset without going to the stealer? Shel Hart 1995 M3 2002 Boxster S ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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#10. [E36M3] SRS light - from Benjamin Hirsch
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Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 10:36:28 -0700 From: "Benjamin Hirsch" <benjamin.hirsch@gmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] SRS light On that Topic, My fiancee's car just went to a stereo shop, and before this, the airbag light didn't come on and stay on ever. However, now, it will come on and stay on for a few minutes (say five?), then turns off. The car is a 95 M3. Does this just mean its in need of an SRS reset? or? Just want to make sure that the stereo guys didn't break anything. -- Thanks, Ben