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#1. Re: [E36M3] Clutch Bleed Trap - from Jay G
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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:34:56 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch Bleed Trap been a while, but when i last bled the clutch, i got air in the line also...the only way that i was able to get all the air out was to pull the slave off of the trans and have the nipple facing upward while bleeding it...i needed a friend to pump the clutch pedal... Jim Bassett wrote: > > On Thu, July 26, 2007 11:03 am, Bill Sharp wrote: >> But when I bled it, after the brown fluid left, suddenly air, not >> bubbles, started spewing out of the bleed tube. >>
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#2. Re: Clutch Problem - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 15:15:31 EDT From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Re: Clutch Problem With the engine and transmission cold, start the car in gear (with the clutch of course) then driveway and shift very softly with full clutch. Take note on how much effort and long it takes to shift to successive gears. If it takes a long time for the syncros to match, or significant effort (you should be able to soft shift with very light pressure) it could be that your pressure plate arm, or the clutch disk itself, is not straight and dragging. The dragging causes the transmission to continue to spin with the crankshaft and the additional force on the shifters and syncros overcomes the drag in the clutch enough to spin and make the syncro's match. If you shift very hard, and do drop clutch launches, you may have broken the pressure plate bands and the pressure plate is draggin on the clutch disk. This will cause difficulty in shifting and the car will creep when trying to engage a gear from a full stop. Or the flywheel itself is coming loose. I have seen this happen on several cars, trackcars, and autoX cars. bob -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:47:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Beckwith <rcbokla@yahoo.com> Subject: Hard shifting, clutch problem? Hi all, I think I have a problem with my clutch. Here are the symptoms. It is very difficult to engage any gear after a cold start, especially first. I've noticed that as I push it in to gear the car will slowly move as long as I put pressure on the shifter. That's with the clutch all the way to the floor. As it warms up, the shifting slowly improves. Anyone have any ideas? My mechanic is at a loss. We plan to change the brake/clutch fluid and see if that helps. I know there has been a lot said about notchy shifting but I'm guessing that what I'm describing is something different.. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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#3. Re: Clutch Problem - from Chris Beckwith
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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 12:47:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Beckwith <rcbokla@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Clutch Problem Bob, Would the improved shifting when warm jibe with the "dragging" explanation? Maybe the warm synchros compensate for the dragging plate. I baby the car for the most part, and it has gotten noticeably worse lately. If the clutch bleed does not work, we'll do a clutch job and carefully inspect those parts. Thanks, Chris ----- Original Message ---- From: "RFKoby@aol.com" <RFKoby@aol.com> To: rcbokla@yahoo.com; e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 2:15:31 PM Subject: Re: Clutch Problem With the engine and transmission cold, start the car in gear (with the clutch of course) then driveway and shift very softly with full clutch. Take note on how much effort and long it takes to shift to successive gears. If it takes a long time for the syncros to match, or significant effort (you should be able to soft shift with very light pressure) it could be that your pressure plate arm, or the clutch disk itself, is not straight and dragging. The dragging causes the transmission to continue to spin with the crankshaft and the additional force on the shifters and syncros overcomes the drag in the clutch enough to spin and make the syncro's match. If you shift very hard, and do drop clutch launches, you may have broken the pressure plate bands and the pressure plate is draggin on the clutch disk. This will cause difficulty in shifting and the car will creep when trying to engage a gear from a full stop. Or the flywheel itself is coming loose. I have seen this happen on several cars, trackcars, and autoX cars. bob -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:47:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Beckwith <rcbokla@yahoo.com> Subject: Hard shifting, clutch problem? Hi all, I think I have a problem with my clutch. Here are the symptoms. It is very difficult to engage any gear after a cold start, especially first. I've noticed that as I push it in to gear the car will slowly move as long as I put pressure on the shifter. That's with the clutch all the way to the floor. As it warms up, the shifting slowly improves. Anyone have any ideas? My mechanic is at a loss. We plan to change the brake/clutch fluid and see if that helps. I know there has been a lot said about notchy shifting but I'm guessing that what I'm describing is something different. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
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#4. Re: [E36M3]Hard shifting, clutch problem? - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 13:31:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3]Hard shifting, clutch problem? My mechanic taught me a trick about bleeding the clutch slave a while back when mine went to the floor. You unbolt the slave from the transmission, turn it so the bleed screw is on top, then open the screw and let it gravity bleed so that the fluid has to spill over the top. Once the bubbles go away, close the bleed screw and you are good to go. I've had no issues using this technique, just make sure there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Shane Kleinpeter http://www.justracing.com/homepage/sak335 '96 M3 '94 325i #76 ITS / JP ____________________________________________________________________________________ Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games. http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
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#5. FS: HKS Klasse Exhaust - from Jonathan L.
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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 13:45:59 -0700 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: FS: HKS Klasse Exhaust This is an ad I just placed on JustRacing.com: http://www.justracing.com/classified/716 Would obviously prefer someone in Southern or Central California for now. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1
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#6. Transmission Oil - from Autoxcrazy
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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 18:48:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Autoxcrazy <autoxcrazy@yahoo.com> Subject: Transmission Oil I'm getting ready to drain and fill the tranny (manual) and the diff in my 99 M3. I bought Swepco 201 80w/90 transmission fluid from Pelican Parts. I'm wondering if I bought the wrong fluid for the tranny. Does anyone else have any experience with Swepco fluids for the tranny or diff? I'm also wondering if this is the same thing as the ATF I see referred to everywhere (Redline D4 ATF). Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks, Bill Steele --------------------------------- Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 20:09:55 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil On Thu, July 26, 2007 6:53 pm, Autoxcrazy wrote: > I'm getting ready to drain and fill the tranny (manual) and the diff in my > 99 M3. I bought Swepco 201 80w/90 transmission fluid from Pelican Parts. > I'm wondering if I bought the wrong fluid for the tranny. Does anyone > else have any experience with Swepco fluids for the tranny or diff? I'm > also wondering if this is the same thing as the ATF I see referred to > everywhere (Redline D4 ATF). Any thoughts are appreciated. I'm not too familiar with Swepco products, although one of my local mechanics carries their engine oils. I'm actually heading to his shop tomorrow; if I remember I'll ask him about it vs. D4 ATF. Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:04:00 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil > I'm getting ready to drain and fill the tranny (manual) and the diff in my 99 M3. I bought Swepco 201 80w/90 transmission fluid from Pelican Parts. I'm wondering if I bought the wrong fluid for the tranny. Does anyone else have any experience with Swepco fluids for the tranny or diff? I'm also wondering if this is the same thing as the ATF I see referred to everywhere (Redline D4 ATF). Any thoughts are appreciated. > I used Swepco 201 in my 79 Porsche 928 transaxle to try and quiet it down a little which it did. The stuff is very thick, almost honey-like in viscosity and is a bear to try and get into the tranny unless you have some sort of HD pump. I wouldn't put it into a BMW transmission which from my experience seem to do much better with a lower viscosity lube like ATF especially in colder climates. It should be suitable for use in the differential though. Another "benefit" is that it's a nice Blue color which in and of itself is worth at least 5HP ;-). Regards Jamie Howton
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#9. Fwd: [E36M3] Transmission Oil - from Bill Sharp
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:53:12 -0500 From: Bill Sharp <M3@cueframe.us> Subject: Fwd: [E36M3] Transmission Oil I'm using Royal Purple Synchromax for manual transmissions and RP Max- Gear for limited slip differentials in the rear end. Keeps things quiet and in gear for me. I had used Red Line previously and switched to try to smooth things out more when cold. Too close to call for me, but who else uses RP? We may be talking about minor, minor differences between Redline and others. Best, Bill Ft. Worth (cold being a relative term) 2/22/99 Coupe > > Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:04:00 -0500 > From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil > >> I'm getting ready to drain and fill the tranny (manual) and the >> diff in my 99 M3. I bought Swepco 201 80w/90 transmission fluid >> from Pelican Parts. I'm wondering if I bought the wrong fluid for >> the tranny. Does anyone else have any experience with Swepco >> fluids for the tranny or diff? I'm also wondering if this is the >> same thing as the ATF I see referred to everywhere (Redline D4 >> ATF). Any thoughts are appreciated. >> > > I used Swepco 201 in my 79 Porsche 928 transaxle to try and quiet it > down a little which it did. The stuff is very thick, almost > honey-like in viscosity and is a bear to try and get into the tranny > unless you have some sort of HD pump. I wouldn't put it into a BMW > transmission which from my experience seem to do much better with a > lower viscosity lube like ATF especially in colder climates. It > should be suitable for use in the differential though. Another > "benefit" is that it's a nice Blue color which in and of itself is > worth at least 5HP ;-). > > Regards > > Jamie Howton > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Check Engine Light - How to read code - from Sean Dowd
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Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 08:32:50 -0500 From: Sean Dowd <m3@dowds.net> Subject: Check Engine Light - How to read code My Check Engine Light is on (99 M3). What is the simplest way to get the code? Can I have autozone or someone like that read it? Or do I need a Peake tool? Related question: I assume that the gas cap can trip a CEL (based on experience with my wife's Honda). I had an issue filling the tank the other day - the pump would keep shutting off every second or two and I had to fill slowly, and eventually it overflowed a bit. Since it was covered in gas, I'm not sure it sealed as well. 2 hours later the CEL appears. My Honda will reset itself for this issue after a while (3 "trips", whatever that is). Will the CEL reset itself like this in the E36 if this is the fault?