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#1. RE: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 10:11:19 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! On Tue, September 4, 2007 7:17 am, Mike Frank wrote: > Hi Bob, > > Just to be clear, is "left" driver's side or passenger's side? When seated in the car, left is left :-) Since the side the driver sits on can change from country to country, "left" and "right" are the correct terms. As what should be an obvious example, in the UK "drivers side" is "right side". Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#2. Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! - from debuhr@comcast.net
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 17:26:32 +0000 From: debuhr@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! I would be interested in where people run rear toe for a street/occasional track setting. Assume I run 0 toe up front... Where do you measure rake? Frame rail height at jack points front and rear. Obviously rake measurement changes positively as distances between measuring points increase... Thanks Dave DeBuhr -------------- Original message ---------------------- M3's are rather sensitive to rear toe. 3. Are you running coilovers? If so, is the ride height still where you want it? Our cars are sensitive to rake. More than ~3/4" and things get a little squirly - ask me how I know!
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#3. Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 13:44:43 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! Dave, I believe Graeme is referring to the standard measuring point, from the wheel well lip?to the center point of the wheel.? You need to know the OEM distance first and drop starts from there.? Now, I could be wrong too ;-)) I think rear toe is best at 0.25" in (not sure what that is in degrees).? Front set?to zero toe. cheers, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering -----Original Message----- From: debuhr@comcast.net To: Mdriver13@aol.com; E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 1:26 pm Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! I would be interested in where people run rear toe for a street/occasional track setting. Assume I run 0 toe up front... Where do you measure rake? Frame rail height at jack points front and rear. Obviously rake measurement changes positively as distances between measuring points increase... Thanks Dave DeBuhr -------------- Original message ---------------------- M3's are rather sensitive to rear toe. 3. Are you running coilovers? If so, is the ride height still where you want it? Our cars are sensitive to rake. More than ~3/4" and things get a little squirly - ask me how I know! ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! - from David Ngo
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 11:25:15 -0700 (PDT) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! Tires are most certainly done. A6s might be okay after that many events, 710s too, but not the wets. Nope, not me, though I certainly wish I was autoxing on Sunday. I *knew* there was another David Ngo running around! :) Dave ----- Original Message ---- From: "mdriver13@aol.com" <mdriver13@aol.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2007 11:27:44 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 11:23:54 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! Hi David, My Hoosiers are the wet radials, rotated every autox, with barely any tread left ;-)) LSD seems okay.? I'll drop the shocks and see what kind of resistance I get from each. thanks for the suggestions... PS: Were you at Sunday's Philly autox, or was that another David Ngo? Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering
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#5. Turbo car might be for sale :o( - from Gary
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 14:10:17 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Turbo car might be for sale :o( I may have to sell my beloved 95M3 turbo...Thought I would post it here first before anywhere else to see what the general consensus for a price would be. Probably put it up for sale in a month if I end up having to sell it :o( 1995 M3 Avus Blue/Dove Gray (I normally call it Dove turd gray) 130k'ish miles on body DRIVE TRAIN S52 3.2 motor 60kmiles, new ( have to put on this month)Cometic .140 headgasket ARP studs, alum thermostat housing and pump 3.38 LSD 25k miles, also have the 3.15diff ,and a 2.93 open diff ( bought for the gears) Diff support bracket from M Radowski (not installed yet keeps diff bolt from breaking. Euro Six speed, RE Short shift kit with BMW Weighted Knob (shifts unbelievable!) Euro Oil cooler housing and Large cooler UUC Poly engine and tranny mounts TEC3r PNP ecu, stock ecu and afm included (makes nice art) PLX250 wide band that reads through the tec3. SPA turbo manifold Coated with Jet Hot 2000+ coating T3/4 Hybrid Turbo, 63 a/r 57 trim/.82a/r 57 trim 24x12x4 intercooler anodized black. 2.5inch aluminum pipe from turbo to IC, 3inch alum pipe from IC to manifold heat wrapped 3inch aluminum elbow on throttle body to cut down the amount of silicone connectors HKS SSQV Blow off valve Tial 38mm waste gate 42Lb injectors (good for around 450ish whp) Billet Fuel rail, Aeromotive regulator and -6AN lines from the tank to the rail and from the rail back to the tank in the factory location. UUC Stg2 M5 LTW flywheel with UUC six puck ceramic disk/HD pressure plate good for 650 trq UUC Underdrive pullies 3 inch down pipe 3 inch exhaust, one oval dynomax ultra flow muffler where cat goes, one round ultra flow muffler in the back. mandrel bent true 3 inch exhaust not crimped muffler shop. Suspension/Brakes Stoptech 332 front kit, solid bushings in rear with Hawk HPS pads and slotted matching rear rotors Coilover conversion on front struts H&R race springs 550lb front, Rear height adjustable with H&R race springs 630lb GC upper shock mounts GC lower control arms, painted black. Powerflex race poly rear subframe bushings, and rear control arm bushings. Front Treehouse racing LCA bushing/carrieres..painted black X brace Eibach sway bars frt/rear Front stress bar unknown brand Koni SA shocks front and rear 96 Strut mounts flipped for more camber Interior/Body Painted moldings Motorsport international side badges Tall LTW replica wing front splitter, home made 3inches modified stock bumper to cover original ducts, with blank covers on fog lights with two holes for brake ducting and engine cooling Race seats with alcantera covering, Older five point cam lock Sabelt harness good for DE's, Kirk racing bolt in roll bar with removable center section, used with stock seats to access rear seats. Stock front and rear seats included with allthe seat belts Kosei K1 17x8.5 with Khumo 255/40 V700's. (or the 18x8.5 street wheels) I tracked it once in turbo form. It has maybe 3k miles of street driving on the turbo system I have all the AC in a box, I removed the AC for weight savings. I also have all the stock seats. And a pile of stock parts from the engine and the two extra diff's. It has a ton of other stuff i know I forgot to list. The above was just stuff I remember. Basically it has been a toy for the last three years. I plan to ask 20-29 for it depending on what I take off. I may pull the brakes, tec, six speed off then sell it. As is, I would have to get close to 29 for it. One sold for 26 with way less than what I have on mine a few months ago. Dynoed at 353whp/345trq @7.5psi. With the headgasket/studs and 12psi it should crack 400WHP. If I can keep it I will.. The new Baby, and bike shop are sucking up all my spare time, and money. Thank you, Gary Gray Pro Bike www.probikeusa.com
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#6. RE: Warped Rotor Question - from Ron & Brenya B
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 15:34:45 -0500 From: Ron & Brenya B. <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Warped Rotor Question Patrick, How did you confirm that the rotors are warped? I haven't personally worked on an E39, but looking at the front suspension design: http://tinyurl.com/2v2phy It looks very similar to the design of my E34: http://tinyurl.com/382s32 Given that your E39 is now 8-9 years old, I suspect that you are experiencing the shimmy/vibration caused by worn bushings (#5 on the diagram for the E39). This problem occurs on 5 and 7 series BMWs from as far back as the 80s models. I have had these replaced twice on my E34, and it corrects the problem. The reason that I caution you about replacing rotors is that it's almost impossible to warp your rotors by tightening the lug bolts too much. I'm sure that anything is possible, but even an untrained gorilla with an air gun is going to have limitations when it comes to tightening lug bolts, and I think he (or she) will exceed those limits prior to warping your rotors. See, the lug bolts don't thread into the rotor hat; they thread into the hub beneath the rotor hat. The rotor hat is tightly sandwiched between the hub and the center of the wheel, so it cannot be distorted by tightening the lug bolts. Now, if they whacked the rotor when the tire was dismounted, they may have caused a warp. But from tightening the lug bolts? I doubt it. It's also possible that one of the wheels was not properly seated on the wheel hub when it was tightened, and it is slightly skewed. I hope you find a cheap solution. Replacing those rubber mounts (#5) will probably set you back $500 or so. -rb > Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 08:44:55 -0400> From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com>> Subject: Warped Rotor Question> > Slightly OT, as this is regarding the wife's E39, but it looks as though the> shop monkeys at Costco over-torqued the lug bolts and warped one or both> front rotors when they mounted new tires. The rotors are fairly new (10k or> so). Should I try to have them shaved down a bit or just buy new ones? I'm> getting bad pulsating at highway speeds, and everything feels (and looks)> good and tight in the front steering/suspension.> > > > TIA,> > Pat Kelly> > 95 M3> > 99 528iS> > 07 Mini Cooper S> > pkelly@agincourtcapital.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! - from Jonathan L.
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 13:41:20 -0700 From: "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! I think #5 on that list could very well be your answer. While "worn" RTABs might only exhibit minor movement fore and aft, I'd think that if you completely busted through one or tore the bushing completely, that could very well make for the movement you've described, as well as the car's action on course. RTABs are my guess, as rear subframe bushings should last more than that, even with heavy use (IMHO). You can easily mark where everything is set currently on the mounting points, and then lower the trailing arm on the left side and take a look to see how worn they are. Jonathan L. >From: Mdriver13@aol.com > >5) all suspension bushings are the originals at 51K miles on the car > _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft® Office Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/
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#8. Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:58:58 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! I'll 2nd Jonathan's vote for RTAB, and also add that if they have never been replaced and you AutoX regular, they are shot and need to be replaced anyway. So start with those. It's very unlikely that the shocks are the issue. Chris ---- "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I think #5 on that list could very well be your answer. While "worn" RTABs > might only exhibit minor movement fore and aft, I'd think that if you > completely busted through one or tore the bushing completely, that could > very well make for the movement you've described, as well as the car's > action on course. > > RTABs are my guess, as rear subframe bushings should last more than that, > even with heavy use (IMHO). You can easily mark where everything is set > currently on the mounting points, and then lower the trailing arm on the > left side and take a look to see how worn they are. > > Jonathan L.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 18:01:49 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! I will 3rd that request, you should've joined Mark, Paul and I for RTAB love day at Paul's house. If Paul did his on his 98 with 24K and a half season of auto-x you could stand to with your M3's age and most definitely based on autox history since you've been doing it longer. Mine were very beat at 100K and a just a few auto-x, mostly due to age. Paul's while essentially new were flexy IIRC by what he said due to age, and Mark's with mega miles were about the same as mine or less since I believe his car hadn't been pushed much beforehand. Patrick -----Original Message----- From: cteague@cox.net [mailto:cteague@cox.net] Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 5:08 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:58:58 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension wear question - tail wagging dog! I'll 2nd Jonathan's vote for RTAB, and also add that if they have never been replaced and you AutoX regular, they are shot and need to be replaced anyway. So start with those. It's very unlikely that the shocks are the issue. Chris ---- "Jonathan L." <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I think #5 on that list could very well be your answer. While "worn" RTABs > might only exhibit minor movement fore and aft, I'd think that if you > completely busted through one or tore the bushing completely, that could > very well make for the movement you've described, as well as the car's > action on course. > > RTABs are my guess, as rear subframe bushings should last more than that, > even with heavy use (IMHO). You can easily mark where everything is set > currently on the mounting points, and then lower the trailing arm on the > left side and take a look to see how worn they are. > > Jonathan L. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10.Mason Engineering strut bar - from Matt Weimer
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:14:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> Subject: <FS> Mason Engineering strut bar Group, I have a brand new Mason Engineering adjustable front strut bar for sale. It has never been mounted and is a really nice piece of work mimicking the construction of the factory Motorsport part. See: http://www.masonengineering.net/Subpages/E36.htm Scroll down to the third item listed for more info. I am asking $200 plus shipping and can provide high resolution pictures if required. Thanks, Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter ____________________________________________________________________________________ Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz