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#1. 2 sets of RSM's for sale. - from William Townsend
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:09:24 -0400 From: "William Townsend" <wtownsend@juniper.net> Subject: 2 sets of RSM's for sale. With all this talk about RSM's I have 2 sets: GC and Turner. Both used one season each. Perfect condition. $50 per set to your door. Ping me offline for pics/offers. --Bill 96 M3 coupe (with the deep GC RSM's)
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#2. Re: Carfax anyone? - from Lawrence Barbieri
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:46:00 -0400 From: "Lawrence Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> Subject: Re: Carfax anyone? FYI, I got my Carfax! Thanks! - Larry
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Repeated rear shock mount (RSM) failure - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:56:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Repeated rear shock mount (RSM) failure There are two types of bumpstops: internal and external. Whenever you heard of Bilsteins (at least the old models...not sure of the new), you had to gut it and trim an internal bumpstop and I think this was only for the fronts, IIRC. What I was talking about was the factory bumpstop that holds the shock cover. It's about 4 inches long and you can easily halve that amount which seems to remove it from banging into the shock on every single bump. It seems that this has saved my RSMs from failing every 20k miles or whatever the interval is. Chester --- Alex Demsky <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I was too lazy back in the day when I installed my bilsteins but is it > necessary to trim the bumpstops? Does the ride quality improve? Dont I have > to disassemble the whole shock to do it?
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#4. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking - from Marco Romani
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:26:55 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking Walter is spot on. The rear toe bushings are notoriously weak and need to be replaced frequently if the car is driven hard. Replace the bushings and then get the alignment checked. Bad bushings will cause bad alignment readings, but usually in toe readings. One way to see if you have bad bushings is to get on an empty road and drive at around 30mph in second gear with constant throttle, then just give the car full throttle, if you can feel the rear of the car twitch or move to one side or another and then straighten out that means your bushings are shot. The application of full power will make the bushing flex and in doing so the rear wheel will move in toe somewhat making the car twitch. On a dry road with good tires when you apply full throttle while moving you should feel no twitchiness in the rear. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Walter J [mailto:walter.gator@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:49 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:44:51 -0400 From: "Walter J" <walter.gator@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking From the sound of both of your posts... its time to refurbish the suspension. Especially if you are driving in anger on a race track. The "tail-happiness" under braking is likely your rear control arm bushings going toe-out. Replace them and check the rear trailing arm for bends (since you could not align the car properly). If this is all factory stuff, when one rubber item goes its time to do them all. I'd replace the rear shock mounts and shocks, front control arms, tie-rods, bushings and struts. I would also replace the motor, transmission mounts and guibo while the car is up in the air. Check the exhaust hangers at the rear muffler for dry rot - they are a source of noise just before it falls off ;) -- Walter ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date: 9/17/2007 1:29 PM
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Repeated rear shock mount (RSM) failure - from Josh
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:37:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Josh <g_force_alt@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Repeated rear shock mount (RSM) failure I suspect Chester is right, too. I left one of the washers off as it didn't look like it was needed. Fortunately, I still have them. I have a set of Ground Control RSMs that I didn't install last time (they arrived on Monday, and I needed them on Friday so I bought the upgraded OEMs locally). When I put these GC RSMs on the car, do I need to install both the #6 and #10 washer? Regarding the washers for the lower shock mount, I'm all set there b/c I'd read about them in the archives. Thanks Kent. Josh --- E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 11:40:16 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Repeated rear shock mount (RSM) failure Hi, I agree that if they push through it's the missing washer. I also think that the stock units plainly suck!! I'd go with an aftermarket; UUC or such. Also, Josh if you went with Bilsteins I suggest you go down to the local hardware store and get some fender washers to go on either side of the lower shock mounting point. unless you add washers there is nothing to stop the shock from sliding off the rubber mount eventually. Don't ask me how I know.... 8-( Kent On Sep 17, 2007, at 9:28 AM, Chester Wong wrote: > Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:26:24 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Repeated rear shock mount (RSM) failure > > The RSM pushing through is indicative of a missing washer. > > http://tinyurl.com/2bjxm8 > > Do you have part #6 and #10 in that diagram? > > Also, I've cut the bumpstops years ago and have probably 80k miles > on my > current RSMs and no cracks... > > Regards, > Chester > > --- Josh <g_force_alt@yahoo.com> wrote: >> I'm starting to think there's something else at play. >> The Bilstein's are in good shape, and while I had it >> up on the jack stands, I yanked on the trailing arm >> and hub. Nothing looks grossly wrong. Any thoughts >> on what else could be causing the repeated failures? > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:35:51 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension Nope, The GC I am using has the enlarged base which acts as it's own reinforcement. After wrenching on my 3000gt though I wonder if I should disagree with their bolts down approach. I wonder how easy they're going to rust and seize together. Thanks, Mark Brian Ruiz wrote: > Are you saying you're using the regular reinforcements WITH the GC > RSMs? I thought one wasn't needed with the larger base on the GC units... > > Brian > > > On 9/18/07, * Mark D* <mdlkml@atari-source.com > <mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com>> wrote: > > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:26:26 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com > <mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com>> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension > > Agreed, > > And just to be specific you want mounts that have a reinforcement > plate > that goes on the top side of the shock mount. Mine tore through... > Expensive... Now I have new mount plates, ground control street and > track mounts with reinforcements and couldn't be happier. > > Thanks, > Mark > > > mdriver13@aol.com <mailto:mdriver13@aol.com> wrote: > > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:06:36 -0400 > > From: mdriver13@aol.com <mailto:mdriver13@aol.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension > > > > > > Hi Azik, > > > > > > > > Could be.? Over here in North America we replace the rear shock > mounts with aftermarket stronger mounts.? If you have not done > this, it's time.? RSMs sold my Rogue, JTD, GC are?your best bet.? > It could be the shocks as well. > > > > cheers, > > > > > > Bob Gill > > 97 ///M3 coupe > > Philly Region SCCA > > 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion > > Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Azik [Hotmail] <azik@hotmail.com <mailto:azik@hotmail.com>> > > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net <mailto:e36m3@bmw-m.net>> > > Sent: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 4:38 am > > Subject: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension > > > > > > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:33:17 +0200? > > From: "Azik [Hotmail]" <azik@hotmail.com <mailto:azik@hotmail.com>>? > > Subject: Problem2 - sound from rear suspension? > > ? > > Hello Group,? > > ? > > Just recently i noticed high frequency taking noise like > "tyk-tyk-tyk-tyk..." when driving on smooth roads over 30mph or on > bad surface on any speed. seemls like its not > corner/acceleration/braking dependent as I don't hear that (or may > be my exhaust is too loud)? > > The sound is like something is loose in the trank but I checked > it - no loose detail. and its louder with rear seats fold. My > mechanic said that these are rear shock mounts.? > > Thanks in advance? > > ? > > Azar,? > > '97 528iA, '98 M3 3.2 Coupe Euro 321 HP? > > (oOO\(||||)(||||)/OOo) /|OO|(||||)(||||)|OO|\? > > Celle, Germany?? > > ? > > ? > > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension - from Azik [hotmail.com]
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:53:51 +0200 From: "Azik [hotmail.com]" <Azik@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension Thanks Mark and Bob, I was at an independent today, the owner is racing in Nurburgring on the regular long time races (VLN). We found that suspension is OK but the left rear shock mount is having a play of about 5 millimeters so he ordered a pair of reinforced mount. I hope that the sound is coming from there as they inspected the suspension and didn't find anything wrong. Apart from one point. I remember changing not long time ago the rear rubber mountings. As I am not sure in English terminology, its number 4 on this diagram http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG91&mospid=47433&btnr=33_1004&hg=33&fg=30 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/o/r/4.png I ordered stock part at BMW (I know, wrong move) and they sent the replacement ones from Z4 3.0 I think there was a post on this list that these are softer tat even stock M3 mountings. I will be replacing them with the powerflex or similar items later. Azar '97 528iA and '98 M3 Coupe (oOO \ (||||)(||||) / OOo) Celle, Germany > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:26:26 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Problem2 - sound from rear suspension > > Agreed, > > And just to be specific you want mounts that have a reinforcement plate > that goes on the top side of the shock mount. Mine tore through... > Expensive... Now I have new mount plates, ground control street and > track mounts with reinforcements and couldn't be happier. > > Thanks, > Mark
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#8. Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking - from Azik [hotmail.com]
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:49:54 +0200 From: "Azik [hotmail.com]" <Azik@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking Walter, I appreciate your comments but I am not sure I got all points. for example, there is no control arm in BMW catalog, I found only trailing arms and lower and upper wishbones. Same goes about front suspension and "guibo". If it is the rubber between the gearbox and drive shaft then I replaced it already. what did you mean by dry rot on silencer mountings? corrosion? Would it be possible to specify also stock part numbers? And I am not driving often on the tracks, may once in a year - my other half is against it. sadly. Azar '97 528iA and '98 M3 Coupe (oOO \ (||||)(||||) / OOo) Celle, Germany >> -------------------- 11 -------------------- >> Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:44:51 -0400 >> From: "Walter J" <walter.gator@gmail.com> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking >> >> From the sound of both of your posts... its time to refurbish the >> suspension. Especially if you are driving in anger on a race track. >> >> The "tail-happiness" under braking is likely your rear control arm >> bushings going toe-out. Replace them and check the rear trailing arm >> for bends (since you could not align the car properly). >> >> If this is all factory stuff, when one rubber item goes its time to do >> them all. I'd replace the rear shock mounts and shocks, front control >> arms, tie-rods, bushings and struts. I would also replace the motor, >> transmission mounts and guibo while the car is up in the air. >> >> Check the exhaust hangers at the rear muffler for dry rot - they are a >> source of noise just before it falls off ;) >> >> >> -- >> Walter
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#9. Re: [E36M3] OT: Car tries to fit under guardrail through 1 ft space - from Reid Conti
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:44:38 -0700 From: "Reid Conti" <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Car tries to fit under guardrail through 1 ft space Oregon drivers.. *ducks*
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#10. Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking - from Walter J
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:49:03 -0400 From: "Walter J" <walter.gator@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking > I appreciate your comments but I am not sure I got all points. for example, > there is no control arm in BMW catalog, I found only trailing arms and > lower and upper wishbones. The lower control arm is for the front - the balljoints tend to wear and sometimes shear so for a car that will see hard driving... its a "while you are in there" for piece of mind. > ...and "guibo". If it is the rubber between the gearbox and drive shaft... It is. > What did you mean by dry rot on silencer mountings? The rear silencer is suspended by metal brackets with rubber "O"s between them and the rubber dries out. If its just one side 1st it causes the silencer to flop around until both sides fail and it drags on the road. It rattles off the bumper plastic at first - which I thought might be your "tic" noise on bumps.