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#1. FS - Hawk HT-10 brake pads - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:19:50 -0700 From: Peter Fanning <pbfanning@comcast.net> Subject: FS - Hawk HT-10 brake pads Full set of Hawk HT-10 brake pads for E36 M3. These are track only and are excellent in terms of friction, modulation and wear. Front set has one days use, 90+% remaining. Rear set is new in box, also included is a used set of rears with another day or two of track time. Retail new is $380, yours for $275. Peter Fanning '98 M3/4
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#2. Re: List Welcome - from Chris Baker
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:34:56 -0400 From: "Chris Baker" <cjbaker790@gmail.com> Subject: Re: List Welcome Hello Group, I 'spose I should introduce myself. I've got a '94 325i with various M3 bits that I'm attempting to get ready for the Grand Touring class in the Targa Newfoundland that I'm going to run with my Dad next year. I live in the northern suburbs of Detroit, Lake Orion to be exact. I'm just finishing off the installation of a '95 M3 5 speed in the car. I did a little homework up front so I made sure I had the M3 carrier arm, selector rod, and driveshaft to go with it. However, I just came across an old post from Rob Levinson an another forum that mentioned to make sure you had the proper driveshaft and not one with a 6 bolt CV on the diff end. Sure enough, I went out and checked and I've got the 6 bolt. Do I just need a driveshaft from a different year? The old post seemed to imply that later M3s had the 4 bolt flange and would bolt right up - can anyone verify? Better yet, does anyone have one they'd like to part with? Or recommend where to get one? I called Driveline Service of Portland, but he wasn't aware of the options and was suggesting they'd have to custom make one for close enough to $500 bucks. TIA for any info. Chris Baker On 9/10/07, E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: > > Welcome to the E36M3 list! > > This list is a private, moderated list run by Sue Kraft for E36M3 > enthusiasts. Please stay on topic and leave the flames at home! > > ************************************************* > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#3. M3 driveshaft - from Chris Baker
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:40:56 -0400 From: "Chris Baker" <cjbaker790@gmail.com> Subject: M3 driveshaft I'll start off with bad form and reply to my own post just to get a proper subject on it. On 9/18/07, Chris Baker <cjbaker790@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hello Group, > > I 'spose I should introduce myself. I've got a '94 325i with various M3 > bits that I'm attempting to get ready for the Grand Touring class in the > Targa Newfoundland that I'm going to run with my Dad next year. I live in > the northern suburbs of Detroit, Lake Orion to be exact. > > I'm just finishing off the installation of a '95 M3 5 speed in the car. I > did a little homework up front so I made sure I had the M3 carrier arm, > selector rod, and driveshaft to go with it. However, I just came across an > old post from Rob Levinson an another forum that mentioned to make sure you > had the proper driveshaft and not one with a 6 bolt CV on the diff end. > Sure enough, I went out and checked and I've got the 6 bolt. > > Do I just need a driveshaft from a different year? The old post seemed to > imply that later M3s had the 4 bolt flange and would bolt right up - can > anyone verify? Better yet, does anyone have one they'd like to part with? > Or recommend where to get one? I called Driveline Service of Portland, but > he wasn't aware of the options and was suggesting they'd have to custom make > one for close enough to $500 bucks. > > TIA for any info. > > Chris Baker > > > On 9/10/07, E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: > > > > Welcome to the E36M3 list! > > > > This list is a private, moderated list run by Sue Kraft for E36M3 > > enthusiasts. Please stay on topic and leave the flames at home! > > > > ************************************************* > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > >
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#4. RE: Difficult to shift into 1st - from Peter Fry
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:26:18 -0400 From: "Peter Fry" <PeterFry@aol.com> Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Kim- It's an interesting link, but the problem described is different from mine. Lately I've been taking only short (6-10 mi) trips, so the powertrain doesn't really have time to get hot. And my trouble is getting into gear while stopped. Any gear, although 1st seems the hardest. When the car is rolling, it's not really a problem. The summers in Colorado (home for the previous 3 years) got plenty warm. And it's actually cooling off a bit here in SC - highs in the 70s & low 80s lately. Do you think this is just an indicator of a part wearing out? I've owned the car it's entire life, and the transmission fluid's been changed every 30-something thousand miles, and is due for another change soon. The brakes fluid was changed & flushed about 4 months and 3k ago. Clutch was not flushed. Don't they share fluid? Could this be a factor? I plan to keep this car for many miles and years to come, so I'm not apposed to preventative maintenance - this is just puzzling. Seems early to have issues with the transmission, doesn't it? Thanks, Peter -----Original Message----- From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:42 AM To: E36M3 Cc: PeterFry@aol.com Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Similar to this? http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=35487 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:21:56 -0400 From: Peter Fry <PeterFry@aol.com> Subject: Difficult to shift into 1st M3 pilots- I've recently (last week or so) been having difficulty selecting 1st gear from neutral while stopped. Going into 2nd (from neutral) is only slightly easier, and then there's less resistance going from 2nd to 1st. Selecting 1st while still rolling is not a problem (like approaching a stopsign for a brief, token stop). The car is a 99 with just under 99k on it. It's had a Rogue SSK and a adjustable clutch stop for about the last 8k. Pretty sure I had the clutch stop adjusted right (to where I could easily select any gear w/ engine off and clutch in). As a result of the subj problem, I've adjusted the clutch stop all the way down. Now I've got a much longer clutch stroke, but I'm not sure it made it any easier to select 1st from a stop. I can always get it onto gear, but it really feels like I'm forcing it. The only other change in the past months was a move from Colorado (7500' and dry) to South Carolina (200' and quite damp). And the car sat for a month after the move- but this shifting problem wasn't evident in the first week of driving after the long rest. So I'm worried. Did I burn the 1st gear synchros with a poorly adjusted clutch stop? Has anyone else had this problem? Help! ___ Peter Fry
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#5. Re: [E36M3] RE: Difficult to shift into 1st - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:34:31 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Sounds like the clutch s not disengaged completely. Could be a slave. Yes it does share fluid with the brakes. Also typically when you change the slave the master cyl. will follow and fail. Sounds more like clutch and fluid and not tranny. IMHO. Kent On Sep 18, 2007, at 5:28 PM, Peter Fry wrote: > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:26:18 -0400 > From: "Peter Fry" <PeterFry@aol.com> > Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st > > Kim- > It's an interesting link, but the problem described is different > from > mine. Lately I've been taking only short (6-10 mi) trips, so the > powertrain doesn't really have time to get hot. And my trouble is > getting into gear while stopped. Any gear, although 1st seems the > hardest. When the car is rolling, it's not really a problem. The > summers > in Colorado (home for the previous 3 years) got plenty warm. And it's > actually cooling off a bit here in SC - highs in the 70s & low 80s > lately. > Do you think this is just an indicator of a part wearing out? I've > owned the car it's entire life, and the transmission fluid's been > changed every 30-something thousand miles, and is due for another > change > soon. The brakes fluid was changed & flushed about 4 months and 3k > ago. > Clutch was not flushed. Don't they share fluid? Could this be a > factor? > I plan to keep this car for many miles and years to come, so I'm not > apposed to preventative maintenance - this is just puzzling. Seems > early > to have issues with the transmission, doesn't it? > > Thanks, > Peter > >
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#6. 1995 Street/Track M3 For Sale - Bay Area - from david benett
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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:59:27 +0900 From: "david benett" <dr.bento@gmail.com> Subject: 1995 Street/Track M3 For Sale - Bay Area Before putting my 1995 Street/Track M3 onto Craigs List and Autotrader I figured I would love to give a list member a shot at purchasing it. Details are provided below. White/Black interior with clean Vader seats. 100K Miles and in Excellent condition throughout. A truly clean example. I bought this car from an avid BMW enthusiast in Seattle and drove it down with the intention of daily driving and doing DE in it. Shortly after purchasing the car, I got a job and moved to Japan where I am presently living. The car has been in the custodianship of my friend in San Jose for the last six months and has been used sparingly. It has done no track events since I obtained it in September of 06. The shop which recently took a look at it for a potential buyer confirmed that it was a exceptional example, even the undercarriage is super clean. Recent maintenance included new updated water pump, radiator, t-stat housing, and new under paneling (to replace sagging original ones) along with standard maintenance (fluids, etc.). Mods include: Active Autowerks catback Turner Motorsports Sway Bars Powerflex RTAB and LCAB K&N air filter H&R coilovers X-brace Ferodo 2500 brake pads UUC shifter TC Klein 4-pt roll bar OMP 6-pt harnesses M3 LTW wheels with BFG g-force sport tires (street) Stock DS1s with fresh Toyo RA1s (track) Sirius satellite radio in dash (clean install) Shadow grill kit (fully blacked out) Please note that the the rear door panels as well as the rear seat belt hardware is MIA from the installation of the roll bar. If you wanted to return this car to street only duty such parts would have to be sourced from an e36. Purchasing these parts from a yard would be modest for certain. A great super reliable street/DE/track car. It pains me to have to let it go. $14.5K. Email inquiries to David Benett at dr.bento@gmail.com Photos available on request. Car is available for viewing in the San Jose area. -- "To be free of time is to be free of the psychological need of past for your identity and future for your fulfillment" -Eckhardt Tolle
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#7. WTB: 96+ M3 5sp ECU - from Ivan Petrov
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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:07:47 -0700 From: "Ivan Petrov" <crazyinp@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB: 96+ M3 5sp ECU Hi Group, I am looking for 96+ M3 5sp ECU. Anyone has one lying around and would like to sell?
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#8. Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking - from Azik [Hotmail]
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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:11:00 +0200 From: "Azik [Hotmail]" <azik@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking Thanks Walter, In fact, I have aftermarket Supersprint exhaust and I suspect that it is touching the bumper plastic because of rattle I hear on the Idle. but as soon as I prod the throttle even for a millimeter the rattle is gone. I am sure its silencer I can get out from the car and listen :) But that sound is smothing different. I will check the mountings of the exhaust. Azar, '97 528iA, '98 M3 3.2 Coupe Euro 321 HP (oOO\(||||)(||||)/OOo) /|OO|(||||)(||||)|OO|\ Celle, Germany > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:49:03 -0400 > From: "Walter J" <walter.gator@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] problem 1 - instability under hard braking > >> I appreciate your comments but I am not sure I got all points. for >> example, >> there is no control arm in BMW catalog, I found only trailing arms and >> lower and upper wishbones. > > The lower control arm is for the front - the balljoints tend to wear > and sometimes shear so for a car that will see hard driving... its a > "while you are in there" for piece of mind. > >> ...and "guibo". If it is the rubber between the gearbox and drive >> shaft... > > It is. > >> What did you mean by dry rot on silencer mountings? > > The rear silencer is suspended by metal brackets with rubber "O"s > between them and the rubber dries out. If its just one side 1st it > causes the silencer to flop around until both sides fail and it drags > on the road. It rattles off the bumper plastic at first - which I > thought might be your "tic" noise on bumps.
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#9. RE: Difficult to shift into 1st - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 07:53:51 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st The easy (or not so) task would be to replace ALL the plastic in the shifter and look for wear the metallic parts and replace as required. Then if not resolved pull the transmission and replace the detents identified within this thread. Sounds like Miki is working through the problem and hopefully report back the out come. http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=35487 http://www.zf-group.com/pdf/S531.pdf Thank You! Kim L Burgess 777 Wing Sustaining (425)294-3213 -----Original Message----- From: Peter Fry [mailto:PeterFry@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:26 PM To: Burgess, Kim L; 'E36M3' Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Kim- It's an interesting link, but the problem described is different from mine. Lately I've been taking only short (6-10 mi) trips, so the powertrain doesn't really have time to get hot. And my trouble is getting into gear while stopped. Any gear, although 1st seems the hardest. When the car is rolling, it's not really a problem. The summers in Colorado (home for the previous 3 years) got plenty warm. And it's actually cooling off a bit here in SC - highs in the 70s & low 80s lately. Do you think this is just an indicator of a part wearing out? I've owned the car it's entire life, and the transmission fluid's been changed every 30-something thousand miles, and is due for another change soon. The brakes fluid was changed & flushed about 4 months and 3k ago. Clutch was not flushed. Don't they share fluid? Could this be a factor? I plan to keep this car for many miles and years to come, so I'm not apposed to preventative maintenance - this is just puzzling. Seems early to have issues with the transmission, doesn't it? Thanks, Peter -----Original Message----- From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:42 AM To: E36M3 Cc: PeterFry@aol.com Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Similar to this? http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=35487 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:21:56 -0400 From: Peter Fry <PeterFry@aol.com> Subject: Difficult to shift into 1st M3 pilots- I've recently (last week or so) been having difficulty selecting 1st gear from neutral while stopped. Going into 2nd (from neutral) is only slightly easier, and then there's less resistance going from 2nd to 1st. Selecting 1st while still rolling is not a problem (like approaching a stopsign for a brief, token stop). The car is a 99 with just under 99k on it. It's had a Rogue SSK and a adjustable clutch stop for about the last 8k. Pretty sure I had the clutch stop adjusted right (to where I could easily select any gear w/ engine off and clutch in). As a result of the subj problem, I've adjusted the clutch stop all the way down. Now I've got a much longer clutch stroke, but I'm not sure it made it any easier to select 1st from a stop. I can always get it onto gear, but it really feels like I'm forcing it. The only other change in the past months was a move from Colorado (7500' and dry) to South Carolina (200' and quite damp). And the car sat for a month after the move- but this shifting problem wasn't evident in the first week of driving after the long rest. So I'm worried. Did I burn the 1st gear synchros with a poorly adjusted clutch stop? Has anyone else had this problem? Help! ___ Peter Fry
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#10. RE: Difficult to shift into 1st - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:10:18 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st JAKE - Not my problem.....yet. I had yet to consider the pilot bearing. But - Thank You! Kim L Burgess -----Original Message----- From: Jake.Leverett@gtri.gatech.edu [mailto:Jake.Leverett@gtri.gatech.edu] Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 8:27 AM To: Burgess, Kim L Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Kim, I am surprised at how muddy the water is getting when it comes to diangosing your shifting problem. If I have to take a guess based on the information I have read I would say the pilot bearing is dry and is not properly letting the input shaft "float" as is should. I think your shifter problem is 99.9% clutch related. Now if you have a hydraulic leak the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder is another problem but since the car shifts fine once rolling I am thinking there is nothing wrong with the transmission. However if you think you need a transmission I have an extra 5 speed transmission out of a 98 M3 I would be willing to sell (I switched over to a 6-speed). Good luck with the shifting problem. Jake -----Original Message----- From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:59 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 07:53:51 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st The easy (or not so) task would be to replace ALL the plastic in the shifter and look for wear the metallic parts and replace as required. Then if not resolved pull the transmission and replace the detents identified within this thread. Sounds like Miki is working through the problem and hopefully report back the out come. http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=35487 http://www.zf-group.com/pdf/S531.pdf Thank You! Kim L Burgess 777 Wing Sustaining (425)294-3213 -----Original Message----- From: Peter Fry [mailto:PeterFry@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:26 PM To: Burgess, Kim L; 'E36M3' Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Kim- It's an interesting link, but the problem described is different from mine. Lately I've been taking only short (6-10 mi) trips, so the powertrain doesn't really have time to get hot. And my trouble is getting into gear while stopped. Any gear, although 1st seems the hardest. When the car is rolling, it's not really a problem. The summers in Colorado (home for the previous 3 years) got plenty warm. And it's actually cooling off a bit here in SC - highs in the 70s & low 80s lately. Do you think this is just an indicator of a part wearing out? I've owned the car it's entire life, and the transmission fluid's been changed every 30-something thousand miles, and is due for another change soon. The brakes fluid was changed & flushed about 4 months and 3k ago. Clutch was not flushed. Don't they share fluid? Could this be a factor? I plan to keep this car for many miles and years to come, so I'm not apposed to preventative maintenance - this is just puzzling. Seems early to have issues with the transmission, doesn't it? Thanks, Peter -----Original Message----- From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:42 AM To: E36M3 Cc: PeterFry@aol.com Subject: RE: Difficult to shift into 1st Similar to this? http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=35487 Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:21:56 -0400 From: Peter Fry <PeterFry@aol.com> Subject: Difficult to shift into 1st M3 pilots- I've recently (last week or so) been having difficulty selecting 1st gear from neutral while stopped. Going into 2nd (from neutral) is only slightly easier, and then there's less resistance going from 2nd to 1st. Selecting 1st while still rolling is not a problem (like approaching a stopsign for a brief, token stop). The car is a 99 with just under 99k on it. It's had a Rogue SSK and a adjustable clutch stop for about the last 8k. Pretty sure I had the clutch stop adjusted right (to where I could easily select any gear w/ engine off and clutch in). As a result of the subj problem, I've adjusted the clutch stop all the way down. Now I've got a much longer clutch stroke, but I'm not sure it made it any easier to select 1st from a stop. I can always get it onto gear, but it really feels like I'm forcing it. The only other change in the past months was a move from Colorado (7500' and dry) to South Carolina (200' and quite damp). And the car sat for a month after the move- but this shifting problem wasn't evident in the first week of driving after the long rest. So I'm worried. Did I burn the 1st gear synchros with a poorly adjusted clutch stop? Has anyone else had this problem? Help! ___ Peter Fry ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************