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#1. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator - from Marco Romani
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:16:12 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator If it were me and I didn't have time to really find the problem I'd put a battery cutoff switch in the car and worry about it later. You said you found some drain on fuse 33. Pull it next time and see if that solves your problem. If you have an alarm or any other low current device it will drain the battery. My V1 sucked all the life out of the CTS-V battery in less than 2 weeks. There is always a small bit of draw in the system - radio memory, etc etc. Also regarding why the battery won't charge while driving - if you're running a bunch of stuff, radio, lights, ac, blah blah there may not be enough spare trons to go to the battery. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Shane Kleinpeter [mailto:sak335@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:29 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:22:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator Battery is less than 8 months old. Have not checked fluid levels but it's sealed (Interstate MT 91). It's been run down to near dead twice in that time, but has charged up fine both times. I swapped batteries with my race car (E36 325i) and back at some point and there was no change in behavior for either battery in either car. That is, the M3 battery maintained charge fine in the race car, and the race car battery drained while sitting in the M3. Alternator is new/rebuilt Bosch, checked by three different sources and said by all three to be OK. I've checked it myself and it's putting out 14 volts in correct phase. Car is in North Carolina, not as hot as Texas but still has been a very hot summer. This problem has been around for two years now (but less than 7k miles given my driving habits). I replaced the battery and the alternator trying to fix the problem, but neither fixed it. When I check voltage at the battery while the car is running it shows 13.6, as does my voltage guage. Another interesting thing the car does is that when I'm driving along at night and I hit the high beams, the radio will cut out temporarily (maybe a second) and then come back on again. Something is clearly drawing power somewhere but I'm not sure how to even approach how to figure out where/why. I did investigate my current drain and identified a slight drain on fuse circuit 33. I checked everything on that circuit but the door lock heaters and all checked out fine. Not sure if they are working or not because I can't tell from the Bentley how to check them. I'm also not sure if the mirror heaters are on the same circuit, but they no longer function. I was under the impression that the heating elements burn out eventually. BUt I also thought that they didn't turn on unless the ambiant temperatures were below a certain threshold, and I can't see how they could come into play when it's 90 degrees outside. Shane --- loweseaton@aol.com wrote: > First I would inspect/replace the battery.? Have you > checked the battery's fluid level?? If it is below > the top of the plates, it can do weird things.? My > personal opinion is if the fluid level EVER drops > below the top of the plates, the battery is ruined.? > But try telling that to auto parts store clerks here > in Texas where battery fluid can evaporate out of a > battery in just one summer to below the plates.? > grrr....? So if your fluid level is way low or it > ever has been, I would replace the battery. > > Next, how old is your battery?? It is beyond me why > guys try to milk their batteries as long as possible > for bragging rights.? We routinely see guys posting > their battery is 7 or 9 years old.? I think the > record is some guy claimed 11 years.? They don't > live in Texas.? I've never had a battery last more > than 4 years.? Heat does more damage than cold to a > battery.? Batteries are cheap.? You can buy a > battery for less than $100 and install it yourself > very easily.? If you replace it every 3 years, that > is less than one tank of gas.? I don't see the point > of trying to save money on a new battery.? Get a new > one and see if you still have problems.? Cheaper > than paying for an hour of diagnosis. > > Then, if you still have a dead battery, I would keep > checking the alternator.? I had a similar problem > with my '95 M3.? I don't drive it every day.? For > 2-3 years, I would have a?sporadic dead battery.? I > went through 3 different batteries thinking the old > battery had died and the brand new one I bought was defective.? Every > time and everybody who tested the alternator said it was good.? I > tested it, Auto Zone tested it, BMW dealership tested it, independent > repair shop tested it (twice), ...? every time it > tested good.? I was about ready to spend $$$$ to > diagnosis if I had a sporadic low current drain?that > was draining my battery.? But the third time the > independent shop tested my alternator it came out > "no good".? Problem turned out to be a bad voltage > regulator in the alternator.? Sometimes it would > charge at 14 volts, then it would charge at just 8 > volts.? Replaced the alternator and haven't had a > lick of trouble since. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 8:28 am > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator > > > > Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 06:27:53 -0700 (PDT) > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: Battery/Alternator > > Actually, once the battery is charged it will stay > charged if I'm driving it regularly and it will take > several weeks to discharge while sitting. What's > perplexing to me is why the battery won't charge > once > it's been discharged. I had both battery and > alternater checked (by me and then by > "professionals" > just to make sure) and by all accounts they appear > to > be OK. > > My fear is that I'm going to actually have to take > the > car to the dealer because nobody can seem to figure > out what is really wrong. And given that this is an > 11 year old car (albeit with only 108k on the > clock), > the $90/hour service rate will quickly eat into it's > value on something that requires quite a bit of > diagnostic time...not to mention that BMW dealers > aren't exactly known for being good diagnosticians. > The one in Charlotte is more well known for throwing > parts at the problem until it's fixed. But given > how > often I drive it (i.e. rarely), it would be silly to > buy something else right now and the car is > otherwise > mechanically very sound. > > >From your original description of the issue it does > >not sound like it will hold a charge. You charge > it, > >then after a day or so its dead again, its 'cus > >your battery is toast and it wont hold a > >charge...plain and simple. > > >Check your alternator output. If the output is OK > >then you have simply ruined your battery by > allowing > >it to sit in a discharged state. ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. http://farechase.yahoo.com/ ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator - from loweseaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:23:44 -0400 From: loweseaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator Shane, OK, then I think you are at the point I was trying to diagnosis a low current drain.? I don't have much help there, just cautions.? If your dealership charges $90/hr, that is cheap.? Last time I checked our local dealers (2 years ago), they were at $135/hr.? I'm sure the current rate is over $160/hr by now.? Even my preferred local independent was $95/hr three years ago so I'm sure he is way over $100/hr now.? My preferred independent shop warned me that tracking down a low current drain is not easy and could get expensive.? He said it might be an hour or it might be 20 hrs labor.? I did the math - 20 x $95 = $1,900.? I bought a battery trickle charger for $17 instead and used it for 2 years. I tried to diagnosis the current drain myself but gave up.? It is not as easy as you might think.? I could never get a steady current flow.? It would fluctuate.? You are not dealing with simple devices like a light bulb.? My first problem was where to hook up my multimeter. I tried disconnecting the battery cable and putting it in series with the battery.? No good.? Disconnecting the battery causes all sorts of distractions.? The DME, radio, EWS, HVAC, etc..., who knows what else, all get reset and go through a "boot up" mode when the battery is disconnected/reconnected.? I?measured?very high current flow at first, then it would taper off.? I could not get a true baseline current draw.? And there may not even been a baseline.? I'm sure when you shut the car off, the engine electronics and HVAC go through some sort of shut down or hibernation sequence.? Nothing else, I know the HVAC fan keeps running for a short time after the engine is turned off. What I wanted to do was leave my multimeter permanently hooked up in series with the battery and drive the car for several days.? Then after several days, the DME would be normalized and stable.? I could park the car and come back 12 hours later to see what the current flow is.? But that was impossible.? The first time I hit the starter, the 1000 amps would melt my cheap multimeter and of course the 24 gauge wire would vaporize.? They may make amp meters that could live in series with a car battery but I don't want to know how much $$$$. Next, I tried testing current at the fuse box.? This was an exercise is futility.? I could never get repeatable results.? I would pull a fuse, test the current flow.? Put it back in, pull it out, measure it again, get a different reading.? Repeat a third time and get yet a different current reading.? Or if I tested fuse #1 then fuse #2, I would get one set of results.? But if I tested fuse #2 first then fuse #1 in that order, I got totally different current readings.? It was maddening.? I think pulling fuses caused the DME to go into some sort of "reset" or "diagnostics" mode, so the current draw was fluctuated. I gave up.? There must be a way to test the current draw but I don't know how and it probably requires specialized BMW diagnostics tools.? I got good attaching my battery charger every time I parked my car at home. Good luck! Lowell '95 M3 -----Original Message----- From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:28 am Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:22:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator Battery is less than 8 months old. Have not checked fluid levels but it's sealed (Interstate MT 91). It's been run down to near dead twice in that time, but has charged up fine both times. I swapped batteries with my race car (E36 325i) and back at some point and there was no change in behavior for either battery in either car. That is, the M3 battery maintained charge fine in the race car, and the race car battery drained while sitting in the M3. Alternator is new/rebuilt Bosch, checked by three different sources and said by all three to be OK. I've checked it myself and it's putting out 14 volts in correct phase. Car is in North Carolina, not as hot as Texas but still has been a very hot summer. This problem has been around for two years now (but less than 7k miles given my driving habits). I replaced the battery and the alternator trying to fix the problem, but neither fixed it. When I check voltage at the battery while the car is running it shows 13.6, as does my voltage guage. Another interesting thing the car does is that when I'm driving along at night and I hit the high beams, the radio will cut out temporarily (maybe a second) and then come back on again. Something is clearly drawing power somewhere but I'm not sure how to even approach how to figure out where/why. I did investigate my current drain and identified a slight drain on fuse circuit 33. I checked everything on that circuit but the door lock heaters and all checked out fine. Not sure if they are working or not because I can't tell from the Bentley how to check them. I'm also not sure if the mirror heaters are on the same circuit, but they no longer function. I was under the impression that the heating elements burn out eventually. BUt I also thought that they didn't turn on unless the ambiant temperatures were below a certain threshold, and I can't see how they could come into play when it's 90 degrees outside. Shane ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
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#3. Jacks - from Bill Sharp
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 11:46:23 -0500 From: Bill Sharp <M3@cueframe.us> Subject: Jacks I'm wondering how everyone stores their jacks: Open, lightly closed, or snugly closed. Tnx, Bill Ft. Worth 2/22/99 Coupe
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Re: question marks in messages - from Reed Nicholson
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:46:30 -0700 From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: question marks in messages I seem to be getting more messages like this with the question marks following most of the periods. What's up with that? Is there a way I can fix it? Reed/Seattle > -----Original Message----- > From: loweseaton@aol.com [mailto:loweseaton@aol.com] > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:29 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator > > Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:23:44 -0400 > From: loweseaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator > > Shane, > > OK, then I think you are at the point I was trying to > diagnosis a low current drain.? I don't have much help there, > just cautions.? If your dealership charges $90/hr, that is > cheap.? Last time I checked our local dealers (2 years ago), > they were at $135/hr.? I'm sure the current rate is over > $160/hr by now.? Even my preferred local independent was > $95/hr three years ago so I'm sure he is way over $100/hr > now.? My preferred independent shop warned me that tracking > down a low current drain is not easy and could get > expensive.? He said it might be an hour or it might be 20 hrs > labor.? I did the math - 20 x $95 = $1,900.? I bought a > battery trickle charger for $17 instead and used it for 2 years. > > I tried to diagnosis the current drain myself but gave up.? > It is not as easy as you might think.? I could never get a > steady current flow.? It would fluctuate.? You are not > dealing with simple devices like a light bulb.? My first > problem was where to hook up my multimeter. > > I tried disconnecting the battery cable and putting it in > series with the battery.? No good.? Disconnecting the battery > causes all sorts of distractions.? The DME, radio, EWS, HVAC, > etc..., who knows what else, all get reset and go through a > "boot up" mode when the battery is disconnected/reconnected.? > I?measured?very high current flow at first, then it would > taper off.? I could not get a true baseline current draw.? > And there may not even been a baseline.? I'm sure when you > shut the car off, the engine electronics and HVAC go through > some sort of shut down or hibernation sequence.? Nothing > else, I know the HVAC fan keeps running for a short time > after the engine is turned off. > > What I wanted to do was leave my multimeter permanently > hooked up in series with the battery and drive the car for > several days.? Then after several days, the DME would be > normalized and stable.? I could park the car and come back 12 > hours later to see what the current flow is.? But that was > impossible.? The first time I hit the starter, the 1000 amps > would melt my cheap multimeter and of course the 24 gauge > wire would vaporize.? They may make amp meters that could > live in series with a car battery but I don't want to know > how much $$$$. > > Next, I tried testing current at the fuse box.? This was an > exercise is futility.? I could never get repeatable results.? > I would pull a fuse, test the current flow.? Put it back in, > pull it out, measure it again, get a different reading.? > Repeat a third time and get yet a different current reading.? > Or if I tested fuse #1 then fuse #2, I would get one set of > results.? But if I tested fuse #2 first then fuse #1 in that > order, I got totally different current readings.? It was > maddening.? I think pulling fuses caused the DME to go into > some sort of "reset" or "diagnostics" mode, so the current > draw was fluctuated. > > I gave up.? There must be a way to test the current draw but > I don't know how and it probably requires specialized BMW > diagnostics tools.? I got good attaching my battery charger > every time I parked my car at home. > > Good luck! > > Lowell > '95 M3
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#5. RE: [E36M3] OT: Boxster S sold - bought 330CI - from Scott McClung
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:02:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: Boxster S sold - bought 330CI I don't miss the Evo. The crappy interior got old after awhile, and the ride was very punishing on the street for daily use. Truly an E36 M3 makes for a better useful street car that still delivers crisp handling and good feedback, while still giving you just enough luxury and reasonable ride. And don't get me started on the shopping cart wing... Too often I felt like an "old man" driving a 20 year old's car in that thing. The Evo has the compramise scale tipped a bit too far on the track side of the coin. Scott --- Dave DeBuhr <debuhr@comcast.net> wrote: > You shoulda kept your Evo IX bud! ;- ) That car > rocked. > Even if it did sound like a giant Hoover going down > the backstraight > at Thunderhill with the stock exhaust. :) > > Dave D > 98 M3/4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott McClung [mailto:smlists@pacbell.net] > Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: Boxster S sold - bought > 330CI > > That said - I still really liked the RX8 and feel it > would make a nice complimentary vehicle to my > classic > hot rod. The appeal is also very much related to > the > price of entry, which especially for the lease deals > they are offering - is very very low indeed!! > > Scott > > >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Should I??? (Thinking of selling my street car - - from Scott McClung
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:04:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Should I??? (Thinking of selling my street car - don't do it. I also am a gigging musician - keyboards and drums. And not to mention it would be a hassle trying to park anything with a trailer too. I use my Titan for that purpose and it has a water tight bed cover, plus a huge back seat. Scott --- Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 20:36:52 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Should I??? (Thinking of > selling my street car - > > I've thought of that, really. The thought of hauling > my drumset to a gig in the rain in utility trailer > makes me shudder a bit, though. > > -jeff > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > Well put. > > Scott McClung wrote: > > > > Cost of trailer hitch for M3: $179.99 > > cost of utility trailer: $1000.00 > > trip to home depot for landscaping supplies: > $256.79 > > look on the face of the contractor's in their 3/4t > > pick-ups picking up similar materials: > Priceless!!! > > > > ;-) > > > > Scott > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch > previews, get listings, and more! > http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658 > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 13:09:59 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator Lowell, Actually if you're careful about it, you can disconnect the battery cable without ever losing connection. What you need to do is hook up the multimeter to one terminal of the battery somehow (perhaps to the top) and one to the cable. Then when you remove it, as long as your meter is in the current measurement mode it will never lose connection. And yeah you're right about destroying your meter if you tried to start it :) But sounds like fun anyway honestly. Then again, I always was a bit destructive. Thanks, Mark loweseaton@aol.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:23:44 -0400 > From: loweseaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator > > Shane, > > OK, then I think you are at the point I was trying to diagnosis a low current drain.? I don't have much help there, just cautions.? If your dealership charges $90/hr, that is cheap.? Last time I checked our local dealers (2 years ago), they were at $135/hr.? I'm sure the current rate is over $160/hr by now.? Even my preferred local independent was $95/hr three years ago so I'm sure he is way over $100/hr now.? My preferred independent shop warned me that tracking down a low current drain is not easy and could get expensive.? He said it might be an hour or it might be 20 hrs labor.? I did the math - 20 x $95 = $1,900.? I bought a battery trickle charger for $17 instead and used it for 2 years. > > I tried to diagnosis the current drain myself but gave up.? It is not as easy as you might think.? I could never get a steady current flow.? It would fluctuate.? You are not dealing with simple devices like a light bulb.? My first problem was where to hook up my multimeter. > > I tried disconnecting the battery cable and putting it in series with the battery.? No good.? Disconnecting the battery causes all sorts of distractions.? The DME, radio, EWS, HVAC, etc..., who knows what else, all get reset and go through a "boot up" mode when the battery is disconnected/reconnected.? I?measured?very high current flow at first, then it would taper off.? I could not get a true baseline current draw.? And there may not even been a baseline.? I'm sure when you shut the car off, the engine electronics and HVAC go through some sort of shut down or hibernation sequence.? Nothing else, I know the HVAC fan keeps running for a short time after the engine is turned off. > > What I wanted to do was leave my multimeter permanently hooked up in series with the battery and drive the car for several days.? Then after several days, the DME would be normalized and stable.? I could park the car and come back 12 hours later to see what the current flow is.? But that was impossible.? The first time I hit the starter, the 1000 amps would melt my cheap multimeter and of course the 24 gauge wire would vaporize.? They may make amp meters that could live in series with a car battery but I don't want to know how much $$$$. > > Next, I tried testing current at the fuse box.? This was an exercise is futility.? I could never get repeatable results.? I would pull a fuse, test the current flow.? Put it back in, pull it out, measure it again, get a different reading.? Repeat a third time and get yet a different current reading.? Or if I tested fuse #1 then fuse #2, I would get one set of results.? But if I tested fuse #2 first then fuse #1 in that order, I got totally different current readings.? It was maddening.? I think pulling fuses caused the DME to go into some sort of "reset" or "diagnostics" mode, so the current draw was fluctuated. > > I gave up.? There must be a way to test the current draw but I don't know how and it probably requires specialized BMW diagnostics tools.? I got good attaching my battery charger every time I parked my car at home. > > Good luck! > > Lowell > '95 M3 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:28 am > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator > > > > Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:22:38 -0700 (PDT) > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Battery/Alternator > > Battery is less than 8 months old. Have not checked > fluid levels but it's sealed (Interstate MT 91). It's > been run down to near dead twice in that time, but has > charged up fine both times. I swapped batteries with > my race car (E36 325i) and back at some point and > there was no change in behavior for either battery in > either car. That is, the M3 battery maintained charge > fine in the race car, and the race car battery drained > while sitting in the M3. > > Alternator is new/rebuilt Bosch, checked by three > different sources and said by all three to be OK. > I've checked it myself and it's putting out 14 volts > in correct phase. > > Car is in North Carolina, not as hot as Texas but > still has been a very hot summer. This problem has > been around for two years now (but less than 7k miles > given my driving habits). I replaced the battery and > the alternator trying to fix the problem, but neither > fixed it. When I check voltage at the battery while > the car is running it shows 13.6, as does my voltage > guage. > > Another interesting thing the car does is that when > I'm driving along at night and I hit the high beams, > the radio will cut out temporarily (maybe a second) > and then come back on again. Something is clearly > drawing power somewhere but I'm not sure how to even > approach how to figure out where/why. I did > investigate my current drain and identified a slight > drain on fuse circuit 33. I checked everything on > that circuit but the door lock heaters and all checked > out fine. Not sure if they are working or not because > I can't tell from the Bentley how to check them. I'm > also not sure if the mirror heaters are on the same > circuit, but they no longer function. I was under the > impression that the heating elements burn out > eventually. BUt I also thought that they didn't turn > on unless the ambiant temperatures were below a > certain threshold, and I can't see how they could come > into play when it's 90 degrees outside. > > Shane > > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Jacks - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 13:11:53 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jacks Bill Sharp wrote: > Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 11:46:23 -0500 > From: Bill Sharp <M3@cueframe.us> > Subject: Jacks > > I'm wondering how everyone stores their jacks: > > Open, lightly closed, or snugly closed. > Snug, But to further that data, my jack is starting to fail (slowly drops over time) and is a cheap pep boys jack. It's maybe 4 years old and gets used probably 4-8 times a year. Thanks, Mark
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Jacks - from Reed Nicholson
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:14:37 -0700 From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jacks I'm just not comfortable discussing such a personal issue on the list... Reed/Seattle > > I'm wondering how everyone stores their jacks: > > Open, lightly closed, or snugly closed. > > Tnx, > > Bill > Ft. Worth > 2/22/99 Coupe
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Keys - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:14:09 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keys You need to take registration and drivers lic. Both the registration and the ID must agree. You can't get a key for a friend's car as an example. It takes about 3 days. No special steps for the key to work. On Sep 25, 2007, at 8:28 AM, Shane Kleinpeter wrote: > Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:28:15 -0700 (PDT) > From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> > Subject: Keys > > Oh, and while I'm harrassing you guys with questions > about my car... > > My buddy borrowed the car a few weeks ago and lost > they key (fell off the crappy BMW key chain somehow). > I only got two keys when I bought the car from the PO > and the only one I have left is the valet key. My > understanding is that I have to order a new key via > the dealer due to EWS. Does anybody have any > experience with this that can help me understand what > the process is, how long it takes, how much it costs? > > Thanks, > > > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ______________ > Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's > updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games. > http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >