E36M3 #5443

Monday, October 08, 2007 19:49:25

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Sluggish Performance - from Resener, Kurt
#2. '95 M3 for sale - from Shane Kleinpeter
#3. Re: Sluggish Performance - from Matt Weimer
#4. Re: [E36M3] Sluggish M3 - from dgc
#5. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Hubs Install - How to get 214ft/lb Torque? - from Kent L. Shephard
#6. Re: [E36M3] Sluggish M3 - from dgc
#7. Re: [E36M3] Rear end wiggling under braking - from Mike VanAmburgh
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Sluggish Performance - from Raza Uddin
#9. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Hubs Install - How to get 214ft/lb Torque? - from Jeff Conner
#10. RE: [E36M3] Sluggish Performance - from Resener, Kurt

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Sluggish Performance - from Resener, Kurt
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 16:30:05 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sluggish Performance Thanks Chris, I'll try to unplug the Vanos tonight and give it a run. Is there an easy way to determine where the solenoid to unplug is, or maybe it'll be apparent when I get under the hood? Talk to me about the stage 1 and 2 Vanos upgrades, how are they better than stock? Kurt J. Resener DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you.

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#2. '95 M3 for sale - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 14:46:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: '95 M3 for sale Let's try this again, posting for a friend: I just acquired a 1995 E36 M3 in a trade and want to get it out of my possession as soon as possible before I decide to keep it (would be E36M3 #2). Here are some details. Cosmos black on black 95 M3. It has 119xxx miles on it with the Vanos replaced at 111xxx miles. New guide rails, timing chain, water pump, fan clutch, the whole deal. It is in great shape except for one small ding on the hood from someone before me that must have left a wrench or something on the engine and then closed the hood. New Kuhmos Ectsas with about 500 miles on the stock DSI wheels. It has heated Vaders, 6 disc changer, and an alarm. It is in really nice shape with less than normal wear on the drivers seat than expected. Some of these things have been done recently and some are within 3 years or so. Rogue short shifter Bilstein struts Eibach sport springs New control arms and bushings New tranny brace UUC tranny bushings, clutch arm bushings, clutch stop"Big Boy" New radiator New rear rotors Lots of maintenance records for the life of the vehicle. Located in Eastern KY 41102 Priced at $9,000 for quick sale Michael ’96 E36 M3 ’97 E39 528i ’88 Spec E30 ’98 E350 Club wagon tow vehicle ____________________________________________________________________________________ Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7

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#3. Re: Sluggish Performance - from Matt Weimer
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 15:00:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Sluggish Performance Hello Chris (aka Dr Vanos?), I would be interested in signing up for a Group Buy. Anyone else out there interested? Stage 1 is specifically what I would be purchasing. Do your rebuilds include a new solenoid or do you test and replace as required? My car has the marbles in a can noise and seems to be sluggish below 4k so I think it is time to replace the unit. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Chris Gant" <cgant2112@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sluggish Performance Kurt, A quick and easy way to test the vanos is to unplug the solenoid from the harness and take it for a test drive. If you don't feel any difference in low end torque (below 4k rpm) then it could very well be the vanos. Keep in mind the vanos is 'activated' at low RPM's, to give the car better low end torque. Once you reach approx. 4k, (dependent on throttle position, load, air temp, etc) it will retard the intake cam back, to reduce valve overlap at high RPM's. So with a bad vanos, the car would feel sluggish off the line but pick up noticeably in the upper RPM's. If you decide to swap the vanos out, let me know. I have a stage I and stage II vanos upgrade available, as can even rent the cam tools as well. Someone had also mentioned a group buy on the DrVanos kits a few weeks ago. I'm more than willing to do that if there is enough interest. Chris ____________________________________________________________________________________ Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more! http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Sluggish M3 - from dgc
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 15:05:46 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: dgc <dgcrum@jps.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sluggish M3 Shel asked: >As far as cleaning the MAF, are you using an "electronics cleaner" due >to its' sensitive nature? I know CRC makes a wide array of cleaners including >their brake clean product and I can't see using brake clean as I assume it may >mess with the coating, etc. If using "electronics cleaner", are you simply >spraying it over the sensor and letting it air dry? No, CRC makes a MAF specific cleaner. See: http://tinyurl.com/2al4xs. I purchased some from Winchester Auto Parts (a local ~5 shop chain). I'm sure nearly any McParts place should have it. And I just followed the directions on the can :-) It took about 5 minutes, including pulling the MAF from the car. I was curious if it made any difference so I cleaned the MAF without making any other change. Result: smoother idle and the slight detonation I'd hear on a steepish hill on my 'test loop' is gone. VoilĂ ! Chemotherapy.. Rarely do cheap, easy and successful go together - at least for car repair... -David

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Hubs Install - How to get 214ft/lb Torque? - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 15:04:08 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Hubs Install - How to get 214ft/lb Torque? DOH!!!! Me an engineer. 24" breaker bar with me on it can generate almost 400ft/lbs of torque. Kent On Oct 8, 2007, at 1:55 PM, Jim Bassett wrote: > On Mon, October 8, 2007 1:38 pm, Kent L. Shephard wrote: >> Thinking of changing my wheel bearings. >> Simple question. How to get 214ft/lb of torque??? >> How to measure it?? > > Get a 12" breaker bar/handle, and 214lb human. Tighten :-) > > Other variations exist, for a given human and/or breaker bar length. > > It's only math, don't be afraid :-) > > Jim Bassett - at 133lbs, would need ~19" breaker bar > > P.S. Some torque wrenches do go to 250ft-lb, can't recall if mine > does or not >

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Sluggish M3 - from dgc
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 18:15:00 -0400 (EDT) From: dgc <dgcrum@jps.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sluggish M3 Kurt - >Given that, maybe the MAF is truly fouled. Is the cleaner used for that >simply electronics cleaner? Or maybe now is the time to upgrade to the >Euro MAF? Has anyone done this and does it seem worthwhile? See my earlier posts regarding type, and others have chimed in. CRC makes a MAF specific cleaner. Sounds like with the excess oil from your filter, it'd be worthwhile to try. Dunno about the Euro MAF, but I'm sure they repel dirt/oil as well ;-) >I'm pretty mechanically inclined but must admit I've never had the MAF >out, what's the procedure for cleaning it? Pop the clips that hold the MAF to the air cleaner, loosen the hose clamp on the rubber boot, disconnect the cable, clean. Some sites that I looked at talk about taking the MAF out of the plastic housing, but that seems like a lot of extra work and may lead to damaging the sensor. That could be the "honey, I need to buy a new part for the M3" excuse to get the EuroMAF... -David

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rear end wiggling under braking - from Mike VanAmburgh
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 17:27:57 -0500 From: "Mike VanAmburgh" <mvanamburgh@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear end wiggling under braking If you're getting slight wiggle under hard braking on the track, it sounds normal to me. When I first started doing track events, an instructor told me, "if you don't feel the ass end wiggling a bit, you're not braking hard enough". Was this your first track event? I remember it kinda freaked me out when I first felt it. Maybe this is something different? Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Azik [hotmail.com]" <Azik@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 12:58 PM Subject: [E36M3] Rear end wiggling under braking > Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 19:52:20 +0200 > From: "Azik [hotmail.com]" <Azik@hotmail.com> > Subject: Rear end wiggling under braking > > I already mentioned that I had problems under hard braking. I made wheel > alignment and changed RSM's with reinforced ones. > i havn't been able to test the results yet but neither before replacing > bushings (my bushings are replacement from Z4 (rear) as the M3's are not > produced any longer. I've been told that they are softer), neither after I > had no problems accelerating. only "wiggling" in the corners on bad > surface. After changing the bushings that problems seems like solved but > trip to Nurburgring revealed problem under hard braking. the suspension > seems OK, checked by racing mechanics, although I didn't check any parts > for bents. > > But I did schock absober test and it showed that rears are softer that > fronts but within spec (for normal cars). Is this normal? > > Thanks > Azar > '97 528iA and '98 M3 Coupe > (oOO \ (||||)(||||) / OOo) > Celle, Germany > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Sluggish Performance - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 15:54:49 -0700 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Sluggish Performance On 10/8/07, Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> wrote: I would be interested in signing up for a Group Buy. Anyone else out there interested? I would most probably be in as well. Could you go over the differences benefits between the Stage I and II? Thanks! Drive Safely, Raza

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Hubs Install - How to get 214ft/lb Torque? - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 16:40:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Hubs Install - How to get 214ft/lb Torque? 133?! When did you put on 30 lbs? :-p -jeff 160 lbs ~ 16" bar ----- Original Message ---- From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 1:58:42 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Hubs Install - How to get 214ft/lb Torque? On Mon, October 8, 2007 1:38 pm, Kent L. Shephard wrote: > Thinking of changing my wheel bearings. > Simple question. How to get 214ft/lb of torque??? > How to measure it?? Get a 12" breaker bar/handle, and 214lb human. Tighten :-) Other variations exist, for a given human and/or breaker bar length. It's only math, don't be afraid :-) Jim Bassett - at 133lbs, would need ~19" breaker bar P.S. Some torque wrenches do go to 250ft-lb, can't recall if mine does or not ____________________________________________________________________________________ Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7

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#10. RE: [E36M3] Sluggish Performance - from Resener, Kurt
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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 19:41:15 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Sluggish Performance Well, following Chris's suggestion to unplug the Vanos I just did two back to back, terrorize the countryside runs; one with Vanos unplugged the other with it plugged in. I really didn't feel a difference between the two... Car still had okay power with it unplugged, enough to light up the tires good from a standstill, and get sideways in a second gear corner under intentional throttle oversteer (heh, heh...). Felt the same plugged in though. Is it possible to have a Vanos go bad without the "marbles in a can" sound? I've heard the sound in other cars, and have felt smug that mine was silent assuming no Vanos issues. Kurt J. Resener DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please forward to postmaster@yourfoodservice.com with 'Received in Error' as the subject and then delete it from your mailbox. Accessing, copying or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized. Thank you.

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