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#1. Re: [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:37:39 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... That's a lot of quiescent drain. Gotta fix that! Dunno where the starter relay is ... >Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 15:17:16 -0500 >From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> >Subject: Current Drain Continues... > >The plot thickens. > >Where is the Starter Relay on an 11/95 M3? > > >Bentley says "Behind the left footwell speaker grill" but I've got >it all apart and I can't see anything. Is it behind the speaker? > > >With a jumper battery pack connected to the positive jump lug in the >engine bay and using a multimeter between Neg and body ground, I've >tested current draw (everything off) by going through the engine >compartment fuse block and pulling each fuse and relay one by one, >but I'm getting over .5A draw (quickly jumps out of range on my MM). > >I found three relays below the driver kick panel (two in the aux >relay panel and one further back on the splice panel). Still 1A draw. > >The one I haven't found is the Starter relay. Any help locating it >or making sense of my findings is greatly appreciated. > >Thank you, >Steve > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... - from David Thomas
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:49:03 -0700 From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... On Wednesday 24 October 2007 1:24:14 pm Steve Klein wrote: > With a jumper battery pack connected to the positive jump lug in the > engine bay and using a multimeter between Neg and body ground, I've > tested current draw (everything off) by going through the engine > compartment fuse block and pulling each fuse and relay one by one, > but I'm getting over .5A draw (quickly jumps out of range on my MM). Steve, Are you checking it with the doors shut? If I remember correctly just having the doors open on my '95 (with interior lights off) caused a pretty big jump in current draw. Probably not your issue but its worth noting... Dave
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... - from Mark D
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:33:11 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... David Thomas wrote: > Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:49:03 -0700 > From: David Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... > > On Wednesday 24 October 2007 1:24:14 pm Steve Klein wrote: > >> With a jumper battery pack connected to the positive jump lug in the >> engine bay and using a multimeter between Neg and body ground, I've >> tested current draw (everything off) by going through the engine >> compartment fuse block and pulling each fuse and relay one by one, >> but I'm getting over .5A draw (quickly jumps out of range on my MM). >> > > Steve, > > Are you checking it with the doors shut? If I remember correctly just having > the doors open on my '95 (with interior lights off) caused a pretty big jump > in current draw. Probably not your issue but its worth noting... > > Dave > Regarding this, in my 96 when I shut the engine off, I hear what I believe to be the small squirrel cage fan in the digital climate control spinning still. I've tried to wait out this fan turning off and have never been able to, but when I get back to the car I don't believe it's on. Anyone know how long this fan runs for and why? Thanks, Mark
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#4. Mobil 1 0W-40 - from Mark D
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:24:06 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Mobil 1 0W-40 Hey guys, I firmly feel that castrol syntec 5W-50 is kiling my engine. I have a small tap/knock on startup before the oil light goes out which takes a little longer to go out now (maybe almost a full second). I'm near the end of the 5000 mile service life and have had only a minor decrease in oil consumption which was the original reason for this experiment. Mobil 1 is only available in 0W-40 locally and not in my preferred weight of 5W-40. What do you guys think of 0W-40 or should I switch back to Lubro-moly and stop messing around? I really feel that the 5W specification on that oil is a bunch of crap. It seems thicker cold than they state... It's certainly cheaper than TWS 10W-60 so probably crappier polymers. Thanks, Mark
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 20:49:17 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 How about Redline? They have a 5w40. Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark D" <mdlkml@atari-source.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:34 PM Subject: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 > Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:24:06 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Mobil 1 0W-40 > > Hey guys, > > I firmly feel that castrol syntec 5W-50 is kiling my engine. I have a > small tap/knock on startup before the oil light goes out which takes a > little longer to go out now (maybe almost a full second). I'm near the > end of the 5000 mile service life and have had only a minor decrease in > oil consumption which was the original reason for this experiment. > Mobil 1 is only available in 0W-40 locally and not in my preferred > weight of 5W-40. What do you guys think of 0W-40 or should I switch > back to Lubro-moly and stop messing around? > > I really feel that the 5W specification on that oil is a bunch of crap. > It seems thicker cold than they state... It's certainly cheaper than TWS > 10W-60 so probably crappier polymers. > > Thanks, > Mark
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 - from Stiles
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 20:53:46 -0700 From: "Stiles" <stiles_s@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 This is a loaded topic. I'll say that my car hates M1 0w40, and seems to really like 15w50. I realize the 15w is too heavy on startup, especially in colder climes, but the car just seems happier with it. Ironically, the scuttlebutt is that M1 15w50 is now primarily mineral-oil based. Next, based on the recommendations from my oil geek buddies, I'm going to try either Shell Delvac or M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40. Scott. -----Original Message----- From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:34 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:24:06 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Mobil 1 0W-40 Hey guys, I firmly feel that castrol syntec 5W-50 is kiling my engine. I have a small tap/knock on startup before the oil light goes out which takes a little longer to go out now (maybe almost a full second). I'm near the end of the 5000 mile service life and have had only a minor decrease in oil consumption which was the original reason for this experiment. Mobil 1 is only available in 0W-40 locally and not in my preferred weight of 5W-40. What do you guys think of 0W-40 or should I switch back to Lubro-moly and stop messing around? I really feel that the 5W specification on that oil is a bunch of crap. It seems thicker cold than they state... It's certainly cheaper than TWS 10W-60 so probably crappier polymers. Thanks, Mark ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... - from Marco Romani
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 21:03:29 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... It's not behind the grill. IIRC its above the bottom dash panel drivers side. It is a bitch to get to. There is also what is called the unloader relay there too, it shuts all power off to everything but the starter when you hit start with the ignition. -----Original Message----- From: Steve Klein [mailto:s.klein@steveklein.cc] Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:24 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Current Drain Continues... Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 15:17:16 -0500 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Current Drain Continues... The plot thickens. Where is the Starter Relay on an 11/95 M3? Bentley says "Behind the left footwell speaker grill" but I've got it all apart and I can't see anything. Is it behind the speaker? With a jumper battery pack connected to the positive jump lug in the engine bay and using a multimeter between Neg and body ground, I've tested current draw (everything off) by going through the engine compartment fuse block and pulling each fuse and relay one by one, but I'm getting over .5A draw (quickly jumps out of range on my MM). I found three relays below the driver kick panel (two in the aux relay panel and one further back on the splice panel). Still 1A draw. The one I haven't found is the Starter relay. Any help locating it or making sense of my findings is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Steve ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007 7:39 PM
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#8. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 - from Marco Romani
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 21:06:19 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 Probably one of your lifters is leaking down and that tick is the lifter making noise until it pumps back up with oil. Oil light should go out at I think 1/2 bar so if its really on for a significant amount of time you are either having oil pump problems or the sender is going bad. Do you have a gauge on the car. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:34 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:24:06 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Mobil 1 0W-40 Hey guys, I firmly feel that castrol syntec 5W-50 is kiling my engine. I have a small tap/knock on startup before the oil light goes out which takes a little longer to go out now (maybe almost a full second). I'm near the end of the 5000 mile service life and have had only a minor decrease in oil consumption which was the original reason for this experiment. Mobil 1 is only available in 0W-40 locally and not in my preferred weight of 5W-40. What do you guys think of 0W-40 or should I switch back to Lubro-moly and stop messing around? I really feel that the 5W specification on that oil is a bunch of crap. It seems thicker cold than they state... It's certainly cheaper than TWS 10W-60 so probably crappier polymers. Thanks, Mark ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007 7:39 PM
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#9. Re: [e36m3] [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 - from Mark D
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 00:32:29 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [e36m3] [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 Thanks for all of the responses. It sounds like you guys definitely have not come to any sort of agreement on the oils. I was asking specifically about M1 0W-40 because it's available local and cheap. The available locally is my main concern because my car consumes oil (1qt per 1000 miles) and I like to make sure it's always topped off. If I had to choose an oil I had to mail order it would definitely be Lubro Moly 5W40. Nothing but kind words for that oil. Sad to say but the noise sounds decidedly more rod bearing then lifter-ish. I have a 3000GT which are famous for lifter tick/draining down so I know the noises. The light is not on for a significant amount of time, I'd say 1 second max, most times less than half a second. But then again I don't know if that's significant. I can say it's dead silent and never makes any tapping or strange noises once the light is off. I can't remember how the car behaved when it was younger in terms of the light turning off. I know for instance my motorcycle's oil light will turn off while cranking even. When you first start the car cold it revs high right after it catches for a few seconds. It's during that rev high that it makes the tapping/knocking and it goes away as quick as it comes. I remember back in the day it used to tap like crazy after a good hard drive but it doesn't do that anymore ever. I've had this thought about the oil pump nut backing off and retightening every time i stop/start the car, but I think a big part of the issue is my aging lower end and it's probably starting to develop bearing slop which is lowering oil pressure. The top end is pretty much brand new and I know the check valve is installed right, I doubt it's lifters leaking down. I'm going to switch back to Lubro Moly 5W40 and see if it helps. Spend some money to keep from spending money I guess. I think I might do a bottom end/clutch overhaul this winter now that I'm moving to a well lit oversized 2 car garage. I'll be able to fit a cherry picker in there to pull the engine completely. It'd be nice to re-ring it and really get a new engine rather than just the top end like I was forced to do last year. I might also pull it and have VAC do measurements, rering it, and install new bearings. It'd be nice to know it was done properly. With regards to the gauge, I don't have one. Always wanted the triple set for the sunglass holder, but that was not one of the things I could get approval from the mothership for. Thanks, Mark Marco Romani wrote: > Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 21:06:19 -0700 > From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> > Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 > > Probably one of your lifters is leaking down and that tick is the lifter > making noise until it pumps back up with oil. Oil light should go out at I > think 1/2 bar so if its really on for a significant amount of time you are > either having oil pump problems or the sender is going bad. > > Do you have a gauge on the car. > > Marco > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] > Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:34 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 > > > Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:24:06 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Mobil 1 0W-40 > > Hey guys, > > I firmly feel that castrol syntec 5W-50 is kiling my engine. I have a > small tap/knock on startup before the oil light goes out which takes a > little longer to go out now (maybe almost a full second). I'm near the > end of the 5000 mile service life and have had only a minor decrease in > oil consumption which was the original reason for this experiment. > Mobil 1 is only available in 0W-40 locally and not in my preferred > weight of 5W-40. What do you guys think of 0W-40 or should I switch > back to Lubro-moly and stop messing around? > > I really feel that the 5W specification on that oil is a bunch of crap. > It seems thicker cold than they state... It's certainly cheaper than TWS > 10W-60 so probably crappier polymers. > > Thanks, > Mark > >
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#10. Driving Suggestion - from Matt Bader
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 01:01:39 -0400 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: Driving Suggestion I just finished driving from Albuquerque to Tucson, with a couple of side trips on the way. Unfortunately, I didn't have my M car with me, but rather was renting a Dodge Charger SXT. Car is underpowered with the base V-6, and steering is way too boosted. Also, there seems to be a delay between driver input and suspension reaction. Car was fine on the straights, but during hi-speed mountain twisties I was very uncomfortable driving above the speed limits. Anyway, my reason for writing is to point out a couple of spectacular drives should anyone happen to be in this part of the country. 1. Take I25 South from Albuquerque and exit at Socorro heading on RTE 60 West. Gorgeous scenery, few cars, just beautiful. I visited the Radio Astronomy Observatory just for the heck of it, and the drive alone was worth going some 100 miles (altogether) out of my way. 2. Take I10 West from New Mexico into Tucson. Gorgeous scenery, magnificent views, just so different from what we see on the East Coast. The 75 MPH speed limits were most welcome, and I was able to cruise 85-90 mph all day. The Charger had no power but had I had my M3, I would have been able to gobble up miles like no tomorrow. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 Delaware (and 65 mph speed limits if you are lucky) I drove roughly 550 miles today, and saw practically no high performance cares of any type. Very boring.