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#1. [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 00:03:57 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0W-40 On 10/28/07, E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: > > From: Rush <jdrush@enter.net> > > Stiles wrote: > > Next, based on the recommendations from my oil geek buddies, I'm going > to > > try either Shell Delvac or M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40. > > I've been running M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 in my non-BMW for the last > several oil changes. After I changed it, I noticed my average mileage > went up almost 2 mpg an my motor is down on oomph, by my seat of the > pants. I went on the http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ site and some of the > people there think that the truck grade M1 detergents are so strong that > they actually clean up the cylinder walls and reduce your compression. > It may be urban legend, but it squares with my experience. Note to self, avoid Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40, it reduces compression. :-) Did you test your compression before and after? I think your 2mpg increase is bit ambitious, unless you were running a 60 weight previously. Keep in mind that oils designed for diesels typically do have more additives, but the difference isn't that significant. In addition, some of these additives can more rapidly break down your catalytic converter. Regards, Rich
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Window jammed - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:46:01 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Window jammed Actually, take a hammer to the motor.? Rap it a couple of times, if you're luck it will start to work again.? It worked for me and then two years later it finally died for good. good luck and happy rapping, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering -----Original Message----- From: M540 <m540@bellsouth.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 2:54 pm Subject: RE: [E36M3] Window jammed Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 14:51:33 -0400 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Window jammed Thank you to everyone who replied with suggestions. I pulled the door panel and vapor barrier off this afternoon and looked over things thoroughly. A few of the plastic clips are showing age, but I don't think they or any of the other mechanical bits are causing my troubles. When I activate the window switch there is a very distinctive "click" from the regulator/motor assembly but nothing else. I assume this is a definitive diagnosis for a bad regulator/motor? Per the Bentley that entire chunk has to be replaced as a unit and the window glass must come out to replace it. Is there any workaround for that? It looks like it should be easier. Thank you again, Kevin ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Window jammed - from M540
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:50:30 -0400 From: M540 <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Window jammed Now that is some advice I love to hear! It makes good sense to me too given the sudden nature of my window siezure. I'll take a crack with a BFH (okay, a gentle one) when I get home tonight. Kevin On Oct 29, 2007, at 9:46 AM, mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > Actually, take a hammer to the motor. Rap it a couple of times, if > you're luck it will start to work again. It worked for me and then > two years later it finally died for good. > > good luck and happy rapping, > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion > Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering > > > -----Original Message----- > From: M540 <m540@bellsouth.net> > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 2:54 pm > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Window jammed > > Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 14:51:33 -0400 > From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Window jammed > > Thank you to everyone who replied with suggestions. I pulled the > door panel > and vapor barrier off this afternoon and looked over things > thoroughly. A > few of the plastic clips are showing age, but I don't think they or > any of > the other mechanical bits are causing my troubles. When I activate > the > window switch there is a very distinctive "click" from the regulator/ > motor > assembly but nothing else. I assume this is a definitive diagnosis > for a > bad regulator/motor? Per the Bentley that entire chunk has to be > replaced > as a unit and the window glass must come out to replace it. Is > there any > workaround for that? It looks like it should be easier. > > > > Thank you again, > > > Kevin > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Sunroof, rear drains? - from Marc Plante
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:55:04 -0400 From: "Marc Plante" <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sunroof, rear drains? This talk of sunroofs brings up a question about mine. I have had problems with a small amount of water ending up in the sunroof area after rain. I have cleared the front drains, but don't know how to get at the back drains. Anyone have any tips or a pointer to a DIY? Thanks. Marc Plante
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#5. door lock actuator - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:12:47 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: door lock actuator Sometimes works, sometimes it does not. Thoughts, ideas, difficulties? Is it worthwhile to tear apart and clean contacts? This is the drivers' front door on a 4dr (limo) if it matters. Patrick 97 M3/4
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#6. Had a new baby! - from Mark D
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:20:39 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Had a new baby! Well not what you're thinking, my fiance and I have cars, not children :-P We just bought a 1999 323i with a rather strange history but clean title, a body with 130K that looks like 50K, an engine with 75K that looks and feels like 30K and we got it for a steal. Only issues are a clunk in the driveline, SES light is on, and the shifter gates are a little weird which is probably what resulted in the PO's money shift. The coolant light came on on the way home when I attempted to use the heat and turned off when I turned the heat off but a top off of about 1.5 quarts of coolant took care of that. (is anybody terrified yet that this is going to be a money pit?) :-P Mandatory M3 content... This car is delectably mushy in all the right ways. A smooth handler and above all else extremely quiet. No road noise, no wind noise, nothing. Has anybody taken steps to bring their M3's back to new levels? Were the M3s' always FAR more harsh than these cars? I think to begin with, I need new shocks, springs and struts. If you've taken steps, what did the most for you? I can't imagine that the rear subframe bushings for instance always produce a huge change, but perhaps replacing the vapor barrier was a huge change for some? I think this winter I'm looking at tie rods, control arms, all rear ball joints and perhaps rear subframe and diff bushings (as well as guibo and center bearing) but I'd like to cut down on wind noise, improve weather stripping, etc if I can. Things that really make the car feel new again. Any suggestions very appreciated. I find it interesting that my handling has become a bit vague over the years but the shifter/trans in my almost 200K car feels WAY better than this car. I also find it interesting how this car has the same 3500-4000 rpm pull mine has and makes me think my vanos is just fine - that or this car's vanos is toast too :) Thanks, Mark
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#7. Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator - from Mark D
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:21:55 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:12:47 -0500 > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: door lock actuator > > Sometimes works, sometimes it does not. Thoughts, ideas, difficulties? > Is it worthwhile to tear apart and clean contacts? This is the drivers' > front door on a 4dr (limo) if it matters. > > Someone told me it's always the actuator itself. I removed and replaced it with new and it's been perfect ever since. So solves that for me. It's a little wonky figuring out how to get it out but all in all I'm not regretting doing it myself. I did it in the dark too! Thanks, Mark
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#8. Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 07:51:03 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator On Mon, October 29, 2007 7:14 am, Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > Sometimes works, sometimes it does not. Thoughts, ideas, difficulties? > Is it worthwhile to tear apart and clean contacts? This is the drivers' > front door on a 4dr (limo) if it matters. Replace it. There's nothing to clean, they work intermittently until they fail completely. IIRC, actuators are ~$40-$50, and the Bentley manual does a pretty good job of describing the procedure. The front is easy, rear one is more of a PITA. Feel free to ask me any questions. It's been a while since I've replaced one (I've done all 4 :-)), but I'll help if I can. Jim Bassett
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#9. Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 07:54:27 -0700 From: Jay Hudson <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator <HTML> <P>I have a new, never used actuator for sale if anyone is looking. $50 shipped to lower 48. Paypal works.</P> <P> </P> <P>Jay<BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <B>On Mon Oct 29 6:34 , Mark D <MDLKML@ATARI-SOURCE.COM>sent:<BR> <BR> </P></B> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #f5f5f5 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:21:55 -0400<BR> From: Mark D <<A href="javascript:top.opencompose('mdlkml@atari-source..com','','','')">mdlkml@atari-source.com</A>><BR> Subject: Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator<BR> <BR> Goss, Patrick - PA wrote:<BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">> Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:12:47 -0500</SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">> From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <<A href="javascript:top.opencompose('Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM','','','')">Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM</A>></SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">> Subject: door lock actuator</SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">></SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">> Sometimes works, sometimes it does not. Thoughts, ideas, difficulties?</SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">> Is it worthwhile to tear apart and clean contacts? This is the drivers'</SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">> front door on a 4dr (limo) if it matters.</SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">></SPAN><BR> <SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">> </SPAN><BR> Someone told me it's always the actuator itself. I removed and replaced <BR> it with new and it's been perfect ever since. So solves that for me. <BR> It's a little wonky figuring out how to get it out but all in all I'm <BR> not regretting doing it myself. I did it in the dark too!<BR> <BR> Thanks,<BR> Mark<BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> *************************************************<BR> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors:<BR> <BR> Bimmerworld <A href="parse.pl?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bimmerworld.com" target=_blank><SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">http://www.bimmerworld.com</SPAN></A><BR> Turner Motorsport <A href="parse.pl?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.turnermotorsport.com" target=_blank><SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">http://www.turnermotorsport.com</SPAN></A><BR> Eurosport High Performance <A href="parse.pl?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.eurosporthighperformance.com" target=_blank><SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com</SPAN></A><BR> Rogue Engineering <A href="parse.pl?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rogueengineering.com" target=_blank><SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">http://www.rogueengineering.com</SPAN></A><BR> Treehouse Racing <A href="parse.pl?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.treehouseracing.com" target=_blank><SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">http://www.treehouseracing.com</SPAN></A><BR> Elephant Motorsports Inc. <A href="parse.pl?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elephantmotorsports.com" target=_blank><SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">http://www.elephantmotorsports.com</SPAN></A><BR> <BR> DIGEST INFORMATION:<BR> <A href="parse.pl?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bmw-m.net%2Fresources%2Fdigest_info.htm" target=_blank><SPAN style="COLOR: #ff0000">http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm</SPAN></A><BR> *************************************************<BR> <BR> <BR> </BLOCKQUOTE></HTML> <BR>.
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#10. RE: [E36M3] door lock actuator - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:01:30 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] door lock actuator Thanks Jim and Mark. Were you able to remove the door saran wrap thingy without any drama and able to keep it from ripping apart. I'm assuming that's what BMW uses also. Time for dynamat??? -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jim@jimbassett.com] Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 10:54 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 07:51:03 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] door lock actuator On Mon, October 29, 2007 7:14 am, Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > Sometimes works, sometimes it does not. Thoughts, ideas, difficulties? > Is it worthwhile to tear apart and clean contacts? This is the drivers' > front door on a 4dr (limo) if it matters. Replace it. There's nothing to clean, they work intermittently until they fail completely. IIRC, actuators are ~$40-$50, and the Bentley manual does a pretty good job of describing the procedure. The front is easy, rear one is more of a PITA. Feel free to ask me any questions. It's been a while since I've replaced one (I've done all 4 :-)), but I'll help if I can. Jim Bassett ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************