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#1. Re: [E36M3] Stripped Bolt - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 10:01:44 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stripped Bolt My feeling exactly. I've never stripped a bolt with a 6 point socket. With a 12 point, well..... Kent On Nov 1, 2007, at 8:44 AM, Jeff Conner wrote: > Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 08:42:08 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stripped Bolt > > I've found that I like 6-pt sockets, for the torquing ability, and > 12-pt wrenches, for their more angles of use in very tight spaces. > That being said, I don't think I'd ever try to remove a burly bolt > (tranny fluid, diff, wheel lug, etc) with any tool that had more > points than the bolt/nut I was trying to remove. > > -jeff > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > > No. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kent L. Shephard [mailto:e36m3@kshephard.com] > > Huh? > Don't you mean the other way around?? > > On Oct 31, 2007, at 10:54 AM, Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: >> >> 6pts are the tools of the devil, 12 pts only! >> >> Patrick > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#2. Headliner - Leave it to the Pros - Sunroof? - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 13:33:14 -0400 From: Jonathan Evans <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Headliner - Leave it to the Pros - Sunroof? So my local auto upholstery shop quoted $150 to $175 if I bring in the board. Sounds like a high aggravation to dollar ratio, so I'll let the pros do their stuff. I mentioned my DIY project coming up of R&R of the sunroof and he balked that a first timer could do one in a 3 series without damaging something. I've heard adjustment is tricky but the Bentley has good instructions. Has anyone actually replaced the entire sunroof mechanism soup to nuts? Difficulty factor from 1 to 10? Jonathan-95
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#3. Re: advice on media-blasting brake calipers and pistons - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 13:43:47 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: advice on media-blasting brake calipers and pistons on 11/1/07 1:14 PM, "Chris Papademetrious" <chrispitude@gmail.com> wrote: > The glass bead media took a fairly long time to clean up our test caliper, and > I'd call it passable at best. At this rate, it will take hours to complete > all eight pieces. We are thinking of switching over to play sand to see how > that works. He said play sand worked much better when he blasted an old rusty > exhaust manifold from a turbo car. I had mine professionally blasted by a powder paint shop. Don't know what media they used, but the results were pretty good. I degreased them with brake cleaner and painted them with this black catalyzed caliper paint: <http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/g2/caliper_paint_howto.jsp>. Results weren't bad, but I'm not sure that the paint durability justified all the effort. On the other hand this was on a car that sees plenty of track miles, so the finish might last a good bit longer on a daily driver. > My primary question is, what's the best way to clean the pistons > themselves? I can probably blast the inner surfaces of the pistons > with sand to clean them up, but I may hold off on cleaning the slight > bit of exposed piston sides until they are out of the calipers. I was > thinking of popping the pistons, taping off the hydraulic surfaces up > to the seal very tightly with layers of electrical tape, and cleaning > up the tops/edges. > > Does anyone have any advice on the best way to clean up the pistons? > Judging from what I can see so far, a Scotchbrite pad could be an > exercise in futility... It's pretty much a waste of time to clean the inner cavity or the exposed portion of the pistons, since they're made of steel. They will be quite corroded and rust pitted, and exposing bare metal will simply make that worse. You might consider getting replacement stainless steel pistons from one of the usual vendors if you feel strongly about that. I've found that Scotchbrite pads are perfect for buffing off minor contamination or imperfections from the pistons' hydraulic surfaces. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Headliner - Leave it to the Pros - Sunroof? - from Matt Bader
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 13:56:04 -0400 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Headliner - Leave it to the Pros - Sunroof? I pulled mine out of the car, but with no intention of putting it back. Technically speaking, I would say it is not for the faint of heart, but it is not nearly as challenging as many other things you could be doing. If you are just swapping out the cassette, I think a competent DIY person could handle it. All of the electronics simply unplug, the motor is easy to remove it that is necessary, and removal of approximately ten fasteners and two clips gets the cassette out of there once you have the headliner removed. Headliner removal is not challenging technically, just somewhat difficult because of space limitations and the need to be careful with it. Cassette is heavy, and a bit of a pain to get out of the car. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 Delaware -----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Evans [mailto:jonathanevans@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 1:35 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Headliner - Leave it to the Pros - Sunroof? Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 13:33:14 -0400 From: Jonathan Evans <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Headliner - Leave it to the Pros - Sunroof? So my local auto upholstery shop quoted $150 to $175 if I bring in the board. Sounds like a high aggravation to dollar ratio, so I'll let the pros do their stuff. I mentioned my DIY project coming up of R&R of the sunroof and he balked that a first timer could do one in a 3 series without damaging something. I've heard adjustment is tricky but the Bentley has good instructions. Has anyone actually replaced the entire sunroof mechanism soup to nuts? Difficulty factor from 1 to 10? Jonathan-95 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Any way to recover Freon w/o going to a shop? - from Kirk Lachman
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 10:59:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: Kirk Lachman <admranger@earthlink.net> Subject: Any way to recover Freon w/o going to a shop? The race car is about to get the motor pulled. Right now everything (subframe included) behind the trans is pulled off (for other reasons). I plan on removing the a/c system since I'm moving to prepared class (and have a cool suit so I don't need a/c anymore). However, I don't want to do the easy (and illegal) thing of venting the freon (134, fwiw) to the environment. I thought I'd seen a car show on TV where they captured the freon in a glorified trash bag (with a fitting) and then brought it to a shop to be recovered. I tried google to locate this but had no luck. Anyone have any ideas here? Thanks, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Stripped Bolt - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:09:48 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stripped Bolt 6 point (hex) sockets are a far better choice for use on hex bolts and the use of 12 points (double hex) should be limited to limited range applications and bolt heads that require their use (like square or double hex heads). 6 points provide for better better torque and control over a 12 point socket and are far less likely to strip or damage the head. Personally, with good ratchets, the use of 6 points is preferred even in limited range of motion applications. 12 points are a little more handy when used for closed-end wrenches although I have a set of 6 point wrenches for this purpose too due to their benefits. I have every conceivable 6 point socket available in 3/8" drive, the only 12 point sockets I have are a set of shallow sockets. The only time I have used them was on 12 point hex bolts when I rebuilt a set of BBS RS three-piece wheels. Regards, Rich
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: advice on media-blasting brake calipers and pistons - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:18:19 -0400 From: "Chris Papademetrious" <chrispitude@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: advice on media-blasting brake calipers and pistons Hi Neil, You raise an excellent point about exposed steel piston surfaces just corroding again. I think I will go with the stainless steel caliper pistons since it was a corroded piston that necessitated this rebuild in the first place. The car is a street car so I'm not too worried about track-related limitations. Thanks for your thoughts, - Chris On 11/1/07, Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > It's pretty much a waste of time to clean the inner cavity or the exposed > portion of the pistons, since they're made of steel. They will be quite > corroded and rust pitted, and exposing bare metal will simply make that > worse. You might consider getting replacement stainless steel pistons from > one of the usual vendors if you feel strongly about that.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Holey oilpan - from Karl Rentler
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 15:03:40 -0400 From: "Karl Rentler" <csws.69@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Holey oilpan Anyone happen to have a spare front sub-frame, that they are willing to part with? Thanks, Karl 95 M3
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Any way to recover Freon w/o going to a shop? - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 12:22:24 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Any way to recover Freon w/o going to a shop? What year is the car?? Newer cars don't use freon. Newer cars have the refrigerant sold in auto parts stores. On Nov 1, 2007, at 11:04 AM, Kirk Lachman wrote: > Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 10:59:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00) > From: Kirk Lachman <admranger@earthlink.net> > Subject: Any way to recover Freon w/o going to a shop? > > The race car is about to get the motor pulled. Right now > everything (subframe included) behind the trans is pulled off (for > other reasons). > > I plan on removing the a/c system since I'm moving to prepared > class (and have a cool suit so I don't need a/c anymore). However, > I don't want to do the easy (and illegal) thing of venting the > freon (134, fwiw) to the environment. > > I thought I'd seen a car show on TV where they captured the freon > in a glorified trash bag (with a fitting) and then brought it to a > shop to be recovered. I tried google to locate this but had no luck. > > Anyone have any ideas here? > > Thanks, > > Kirk Lachman > Sin City Chapter > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] advice on media-blasting brake calipers and pistons - from david kroth
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 12:33:25 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] advice on media-blasting brake calipers and pistons Chris wrote: > I may as well blast and paint them with VHT > caliper paint. Where do you live? I did this procedure last year and used the G2 caliper (epoxy) paint system. They looked great at first. But after one winter in Rochester, NY they started to rust again. :-( > I took the calipers and brackets off the car and > plugged the brake line openings with bolts. I did > not pop the pistons out yet If you rip them apart you'll probably find some rust in the groves that hold the dust boot (not the piston seal). You'll want to clean that up as well. > We are thinking of switching over to play sand I use regular play sand on iron and steel. It's comparatively inexpensive for getting after really crappy parts. Like rusty brake calipers. > My primary question is, what's the best way to clean > the pistons themselves? I put duct tape on the outside of the piston to protect it from the sand. Later, I used 600 grit wet paper to buff out the tough, dark stains that had accumulated on the piston surface. That said, on another set I rebuilt I found some permanent damage in the piston and replaced the whole set with stainless steel pistons from Bimmerworld. David Kroth david_kroth@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com