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#1. Re: [E36M3] Orlando vanos job for beer - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 08:38:48 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Orlando vanos job for beer _www.zdmak.com_ (http://www.zdmak.com) offers the set for around $129. It includes the BMW "special tools" required for the job. It clearly outlines the application on their web site. The job doesn't look too bad, however, I'm not interesting in learning something the "hard" way while playing with the cam shaft. Shel ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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#2. Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 12:36:34 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues > > > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > > So I pulled the plugs on my misfiring engine... A little > disheartening... Engine has 190,000 mi, Bear in mind this car consumes > around 1-1.5 quarts of oil per 1000 miles. These plugs have 9,000 miles > on them since my top end rebuild. > > http://aoi.atari-source.com/~mduckworth/1996_m3_plugs/ Did you have a valve job done on the head? I can't recall. There clearly is some oil on them so it is either coming from the valve seals or the rings. The first thing I thought when looking at these plugs is of VAC's dire > warning that sealing up the top end without doing the bottom end will > cause a lot of oil to seep past the rings. Maybe this buildup is burnt > up oil... Is there a way to tell, can a sample of it be analyzed for a > reasonable cost? Well, don't get me started about VAC, a buddy on mine had a VAC built motor blow on him at Mid-Ohio on his driving school car and it didn't have many miles, no abuse and was supposedly "built for reliability and not power". It's worth noting that every plug came out with the slightest tug. They > were all torqued to spec but they felt REALLY loose in there. #2 which > was misfiring was by far the loosest while #5 was the tightest. When > you release a fastener you have to "break it loose". #5 is the only one > that "broke loose". Yeah, sounds too loose. Any expert (or not so much) opinions would really be appreciated. I > would really like to do 4 new O2 sensors, clean the MAF, new ignition > coils and plugs and hope for the best rather than do the bottom end this > winter. Just bought a house and I don't even have a quote yet for them > to do the bottom end rebuild for me. You only have to do the front two O2 sensors, let me know if you want a price on them or ignition coils. I'd do them first before doing all four, the front two can get weak and still not throw a code. Is there any value to a cold engine compression test? I have a crappy > harbor freight gauge. If you want to borrow my Snap-On compression or leak down gauges, let me know. This is what I would do. I would test the compression (warm is preferred but you can do it cold) and possibly do a leak down (we can discuss this further if you want). I would do new plugs, properly torqued, and new coils before doing anything further. Regards, Rich
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues - from Mark D
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:46:44 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues Rich, I did the plugs and put in some recommended NGK's and it's no go. Soooo... I'd like a quote for: 1996 E36 M3 S52 Qty - Part 6 - 12131748018 Ignition Coil 2 - 18201401797 Rubbert Mount (bavauto claims 18 21 1 401 797, not sure which it is) 2 - 18201402479 Bracket 4 - 07119915559 Hex nut 4 - 11621711954 Hex nut 2 - 07119900233 Hex bolt 4 - 07119912524 Hex Bolt 4 - 11621711954 Hex nut 2 - 18211723410 Bracket 2 - 18301703634 Rubber ring 2 - 18211723649 bracket 2 - 07119902083 hex bolt Maybe not needed 2 - 18201402467 Mounting Support Thinking about: 2 - 33522228415 Rear shock absorber 1 - 31122228461 left control arm 1 - 31122228462 right control arm 1 - 31312228007 left front strut 1 - 31312228008 right front strut ^^ maybe I should go with aftermarket on struts/springs. Bilstein seems highly recommended. 1999 E46 323i 2 - 33176770788 differential bushing (ears) 1 - 33176751808 rear differential bushing 1 - 11537509227 Thermostat 1 - 11537509357 Thermostat gasket (if it doesn't come with thermostat) Can you get the lighted M shift knob for the M3? Can you get it for E46 too? Thanks a bunch, Should be another fun winter. I'm looking into cheap generic O2 sensors... I can solder the connector on myself. Mark Rich Dorffer wrote: > Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 12:36:34 -0400 > From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> > Subject: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues > > >> From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> >> >> So I pulled the plugs on my misfiring engine... A little >> disheartening... Engine has 190,000 mi, Bear in mind this car consumes >> around 1-1.5 quarts of oil per 1000 miles. These plugs have 9,000 miles >> on them since my top end rebuild. >> >> http://aoi.atari-source.com/~mduckworth/1996_m3_plugs/ >> > > > Did you have a valve job done on the head? I can't recall. There clearly is > some oil on them so it is either coming from the valve seals or the rings. > > The first thing I thought when looking at these plugs is of VAC's dire > >> warning that sealing up the top end without doing the bottom end will >> cause a lot of oil to seep past the rings. Maybe this buildup is burnt >> up oil... Is there a way to tell, can a sample of it be analyzed for a >> reasonable cost? >> > > > Well, don't get me started about VAC, a buddy on mine had a VAC built motor > blow on him at Mid-Ohio on his driving school car and it didn't have many > miles, no abuse and was supposedly "built for reliability and not power". > > It's worth noting that every plug came out with the slightest tug. They > >> were all torqued to spec but they felt REALLY loose in there. #2 which >> was misfiring was by far the loosest while #5 was the tightest. When >> you release a fastener you have to "break it loose". #5 is the only one >> that "broke loose". >> > > > Yeah, sounds too loose. > > Any expert (or not so much) opinions would really be appreciated. I > >> would really like to do 4 new O2 sensors, clean the MAF, new ignition >> coils and plugs and hope for the best rather than do the bottom end this >> winter. Just bought a house and I don't even have a quote yet for them >> to do the bottom end rebuild for me. >> > > > You only have to do the front two O2 sensors, let me know if you want a > price on them or ignition coils. I'd do them first before doing all four, > the front two can get weak and still not throw a code. > > Is there any value to a cold engine compression test? I have a crappy > >> harbor freight gauge. >> > > > If you want to borrow my Snap-On compression or leak down gauges, let me > know. This is what I would do. I would test the compression (warm is > preferred but you can do it cold) and possibly do a leak down (we can > discuss this further if you want). I would do new plugs, properly torqued, > and new coils before doing anything further. > > Regards, > > Rich > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues - from Mark D
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 22:58:36 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues Hey all, Two things stood out to me on this case. 1. All the plugs looked more or less the same, the one worse than the others is not the misfiring cylinder. So how would one actually be consistently fouled and not firing? 2. The number 2 plug when pulled was not covered in fuel despite pulling the car into the garage 3. The computer did not throw a code for the ignition coil? Shouldn't it have? I put in new plugs today and no dice. So I checked the resistance of all my coils. They're all right around 0.5ohm, which is good according to Bentley. I checked that each coil is getting 12V, they are. The coincidence of this occurring when I replaced the battery is a little rich for me. Has to somehow be related. Maybe I didn't reinstall the ground strap right but how would the car start then? When I started the car today to try the new plugs, I heard knocking. I'm hoping it's just bearing slop that's mad because of the non-firing cylinder. I wonder if the whole connecting rod just broke. I'd have a huge hole in my oil pan by now. I kind of hope a valve dropped or something. It'd be nice to stick this to VAC's part of my head rebuild. I'd blame the O2 sensor but they're not acknowledged when the car is first started anyway. The MAF creates a much more erratic engine. In this case, one cylinder is missing every time. So perhaps the coil TESTS good but is in fact bad, or perhaps more likely I've got a screwed fuel injector. The only other explanation. I'd be miffed if the #2 injector was clogged but is still functioning. I've got a new fuel filter and the injectors were balanced/blueprinted. Paul, Patrick, Bob, any of you guys have a spare coil or injector I could try out? I have to get to the bottom of this in a month or less because I'm moving and would rather not have my car towed over to the new place. I guess it's getting near the point where I better make sure the cylinder has compression. Thanks, Mark Mark D wrote: > Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 00:23:12 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues > > So I pulled the plugs on my misfiring engine... A little > disheartening... Engine has 190,000 mi, Bear in mind this car consumes > around 1-1.5 quarts of oil per 1000 miles. These plugs have 9,000 > miles on them since my top end rebuild. > > http://aoi.atari-source.com/~mduckworth/1996_m3_plugs/ > > The pictures are massive, but all the better for a good web diagnosis > right? They're also mostly the same so you can probably just load the > first one up if you want to look. > > Those are in order as you would look at the engine from the right hand > side (1 right, 6 left). The computer threw P0302 cylinder #2 > misfire... However they all look pretty much the same. In the pics, > you may want to take note of the fact that the #2 plug was brushed a > bit before I gave up and decided to see what the other plugs looked like. > > From a look at my spark plug chart this is caused by: > 1. Over rich > 2. Weak ignition voltage > or 3. Extremely low cylinder compression. > > 3. Sounds bad and maybe not my particular case. All of my cylinders > were firing and while compresson is probably low considering the > miles, I doubt it's "extremely" low (non-functionally low). I still > have a solid 200HP left in this engine for sure, and I still get > 22MPG. 2. Original coils with 190,000 miles? Distinct possibility. > 1. O2 Sensors with 190,000 miles? Distinct possibility. Failing O2 > sensors do cause the car to run rich. If the monitoring sensors are > failing at the same rate the primary sensors are, it makes sense it > would never manage to throw a code. However a sniff of the exhaust as > of recently did not detect rich burning. > > The first thing I thought when looking at these plugs is of VAC's dire > warning that sealing up the top end without doing the bottom end will > cause a lot of oil to seep past the rings. Maybe this buildup is > burnt up oil... Is there a way to tell, can a sample of it be > analyzed for a reasonable cost? > > It's worth noting that every plug came out with the slightest tug. > They were all torqued to spec but they felt REALLY loose in there. #2 > which was misfiring was by far the loosest while #5 was the tightest. > When you release a fastener you have to "break it loose". #5 is the > only one that "broke loose". > > Any expert (or not so much) opinions would really be appreciated. I > would really like to do 4 new O2 sensors, clean the MAF, new ignition > coils and plugs and hope for the best rather than do the bottom end > this winter. Just bought a house and I don't even have a quote yet > for them to do the bottom end rebuild for me. > > Is there any value to a cold engine compression test? I have a crappy > harbor freight gauge. > > Thanks, > Mark > > > Burgess, Kim L wrote: >> Two words - Interstate MTP-91 (I actually have a MTP-93 installed by a >> reputable shop during a week moment). >> >> Sounds like you need to replace the head......just kidding!!! >> >> If I start my 99 and shut it down and let it sit I seem to foul >> (temporarily) a plug. The last time it happened it did not clear >> right away and threw a CE >> light - miss fire cylinder #(I don't recall). I cleared the code and >> drove it and the miss finally cleared. >> >> >> >> KLB >> >> -------------------- 1 -------------------- >> Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 10:37:45 -0400 >> From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> >> Subject: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues >> >> Hey guys, >> >> 96 S52 >> Car cranks fast and starts right up - and runs with a rhythmic miss in >> one cylinder! >> Thanks, Mark >>
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues - from Mark D
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 23:25:44 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues Argh, I swapped coil 2 and 4 and it's running perfectly. I noticed when I was testing that when I first put the terminals to coil 2 the resistance was all over the place but as I pushed harder on the terminals it stabilized... I probably reconnected some marginal joint inside that coil. I guess you can chalk this up to "hit it with a hammer" but can you guys see value in replacing the coils anyway? Thanks, Mark Mark D wrote: > Hey all, > > Two things stood out to me on this case. > 1. All the plugs looked more or less the same, the one worse than the > others is not the misfiring cylinder. So how would one actually be > consistently fouled and not firing? > 2. The number 2 plug when pulled was not covered in fuel despite > pulling the car into the garage > 3. The computer did not throw a code for the ignition coil? Shouldn't > it have? > > I put in new plugs today and no dice. So I checked the resistance of > all my coils. They're all right around 0.5ohm, which is good > according to Bentley. I checked that each coil is getting 12V, they > are. The coincidence of this occurring when I replaced the battery is > a little rich for me. Has to somehow be related. Maybe I didn't > reinstall the ground strap right but how would the car start then? > When I started the car today to try the new plugs, I heard knocking. > I'm hoping it's just bearing slop that's mad because of the non-firing > cylinder. I wonder if the whole connecting rod just broke. I'd have > a huge hole in my oil pan by now. > > I kind of hope a valve dropped or something. It'd be nice to stick > this to VAC's part of my head rebuild. > > I'd blame the O2 sensor but they're not acknowledged when the car is > first started anyway. The MAF creates a much more erratic engine. In > this case, one cylinder is missing every time. > > So perhaps the coil TESTS good but is in fact bad, or perhaps more > likely I've got a screwed fuel injector. The only other explanation. > I'd be miffed if the #2 injector was clogged but is still > functioning. I've got a new fuel filter and the injectors were > balanced/blueprinted. > > Paul, Patrick, Bob, any of you guys have a spare coil or injector I > could try out? I have to get to the bottom of this in a month or less > because I'm moving and would rather not have my car towed over to the > new place. I guess it's getting near the point where I better make > sure the cylinder has compression. > > Thanks, > Mark > > Mark D wrote: >> Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 00:23:12 -0400 >> From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> >> Subject: Re: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues >> >> So I pulled the plugs on my misfiring engine... A little >> disheartening... Engine has 190,000 mi, Bear in mind this car >> consumes around 1-1.5 quarts of oil per 1000 miles. These plugs have >> 9,000 miles on them since my top end rebuild. >> >> http://aoi.atari-source.com/~mduckworth/1996_m3_plugs/ >> >> The pictures are massive, but all the better for a good web diagnosis >> right? They're also mostly the same so you can probably just load >> the first one up if you want to look. >> >> Those are in order as you would look at the engine from the right >> hand side (1 right, 6 left). The computer threw P0302 cylinder #2 >> misfire... However they all look pretty much the same. In the pics, >> you may want to take note of the fact that the #2 plug was brushed a >> bit before I gave up and decided to see what the other plugs looked >> like. >> >> From a look at my spark plug chart this is caused by: >> 1. Over rich >> 2. Weak ignition voltage >> or 3. Extremely low cylinder compression. >> >> 3. Sounds bad and maybe not my particular case. All of my cylinders >> were firing and while compresson is probably low considering the >> miles, I doubt it's "extremely" low (non-functionally low). I still >> have a solid 200HP left in this engine for sure, and I still get >> 22MPG. 2. Original coils with 190,000 miles? Distinct possibility. >> 1. O2 Sensors with 190,000 miles? Distinct possibility. Failing O2 >> sensors do cause the car to run rich. If the monitoring sensors are >> failing at the same rate the primary sensors are, it makes sense it >> would never manage to throw a code. However a sniff of the exhaust >> as of recently did not detect rich burning. >> >> The first thing I thought when looking at these plugs is of VAC's >> dire warning that sealing up the top end without doing the bottom end >> will cause a lot of oil to seep past the rings. Maybe this buildup >> is burnt up oil... Is there a way to tell, can a sample of it be >> analyzed for a reasonable cost? >> >> It's worth noting that every plug came out with the slightest tug. >> They were all torqued to spec but they felt REALLY loose in there. >> #2 which was misfiring was by far the loosest while #5 was the >> tightest. When you release a fastener you have to "break it loose". >> #5 is the only one that "broke loose". >> >> Any expert (or not so much) opinions would really be appreciated. I >> would really like to do 4 new O2 sensors, clean the MAF, new ignition >> coils and plugs and hope for the best rather than do the bottom end >> this winter. Just bought a house and I don't even have a quote yet >> for them to do the bottom end rebuild for me. >> >> Is there any value to a cold engine compression test? I have a >> crappy harbor freight gauge. >> >> Thanks, >> Mark >> >> >> Burgess, Kim L wrote: >>> Two words - Interstate MTP-91 (I actually have a MTP-93 installed by a >>> reputable shop during a week moment). >>> >>> Sounds like you need to replace the head......just kidding!!! >>> >>> If I start my 99 and shut it down and let it sit I seem to foul >>> (temporarily) a plug. The last time it happened it did not clear >>> right away and threw a CE >>> light - miss fire cylinder #(I don't recall). I cleared the code and >>> drove it and the miss finally cleared. >>> >>> >>> >>> KLB >>> >>> -------------------- 1 -------------------- >>> Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 10:37:45 -0400 >>> From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> >>> Subject: Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues >>> >>> Hey guys, >>> >>> 96 S52 >>> Car cranks fast and starts right up - and runs with a rhythmic miss in >>> one cylinder! >>> Thanks, Mark >>> >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues - from Mark D
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Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 00:39:06 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues Geez, Sorry guys, that was not meant for the list... :( Thanks, Mark Mark D wrote: > Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:46:44 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad Morning - Battery and Ignition Issues > > Rich, > > I did the plugs and put in some recommended NGK's and it's no go. > Soooo... .........
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#7. Is this part of the MAF important? - from Alex Demsky
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:00:18 -0500 From: Alex Demsky <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> Subject: Is this part of the MAF important? I was cleaning my MAF today(after the heated discussion here a while back) and when I was putting it back in, I snapped this piece out by accident http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee299/hyperm3/Random/IMG_9134.jpg Is it imortant?Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 07 BMW 335i ~ [url]http://hometown.aol..com/hyperm3/Hyper335.html[/url]97 BMW S/C M3 ~ [url]http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html[/url]07 Ducati 695 ~ [url]http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Ducati695.html[/url]
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Is this part of the MAF important? - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:06:56 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Is this part of the MAF important? I don't think that's good! I believe that little gizmo is a baffle that disrupts air flowing through the MAF...but I'd poll the group. I hope I'm wrong! Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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#9.Suspension, engine, and brake bits - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 13:11:59 -0500 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: <FS> Suspension, engine, and brake bits Cleaning out extra E36 M3 parts that I don't need..saving them for that E36/M3 but that ain't gonna happen anytime soon, rather have the space. ; ) 1. Pair of '95 M3 spindles, brand new Original BMW parts, never used, capped for protection, spindles only - no wheel bearings...$350/pair, will not separate 2. RRT big brake backing plates, brand new, never used. I bought them for use on a former race car but never installed them, then sold the car. Not sure if they would work with stock brakes or not, I don't think there is a fitment issue but they are specifically for big brake kits..$200/pair. 3. Stock m3 calipers front/rear with brackets. Fine shape, I think mileage is ~110k, don't recall but they are in great shape, includes new cal rebuild kits..$350/set, will not break them up. 4. Cometic MLS headgasket, new for use on US S50/52 engines, stock thickness..$150 5. Stock S50 cams from a LTW, ~28k miles, like new..$400/pair, will not separate Parts are OBO plus shipping from 48116. Cheers. Jack Money WTB --> E46 323 5spd manual for daily commuter
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Stripped Bolt - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 19:20:41 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stripped Bolt In a message dated 11/1/2007 12:16:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, e36m3@kshephard.com writes: My feeling exactly. I've never stripped a bolt with a 6 point socket. With a 12 point, well..... Amen to that, this weekend. I did the muffler hanger R&R and one of the 12mm nuts would not come loose, even with PB Blaster. My 12 pt. socket started to 'round' off the nut flats, so I stopped, made a quick trip to Sears and purchased a 6 pt. socket. BINGO off it came and an hour later the job was done! Over time, I plan to replace all of my sockets with 6 pt. cheers, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com