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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE - X-Brace3....was Flanged RTABs - from Carey Probst
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 14:39:06 -0500 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE - X-Brace3....was Flanged RTABs Jack up the car in front and put on stands. You should see a single bar brace with a bolt in each end. remove it and replace with the x-brace. 2 outside holes line up and the other 3 should line up nicely with the 3 smaller holes in the frame. It only fits one way. Unfortunately I don't have a picture. Carey Burgess, Kim L wrote: > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 11:23:30 -0800 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > Subject: RE - X-Brace3....was Flanged RTABs > > This list, Ron Stygar/Dale Beuning, and google is/should be your friend > http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/suspension/e36_rons_xbrace_install.html > > KLB > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 10:32:15 -0800 > From: "Peter Loron" <peterloron@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs > > Can somebody send me or point me to a clear picture / diagram of where > the x-brace goes on the car? I've got one to install, but I don't know > where to put it! :-) > > -Pete > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > -- Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: hcprobst@alum.mit.edu A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs; OT structural rigidity - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:15:04 -0500 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs; OT structural rigidity On 11/29/07, Rich Dorffer <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> wrote: > The coupe and sedan have no appreciable difference in rigidity. Where's your data? ;-P Carlos 98 M3 97 540i
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs; OT structural rigidity - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:44:49 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs; OT structural rigidity The 4 door didn't com standard with the fold down rear seat. Instead, it has a welded in shear panel behind the seats. I'd suspect that a no sunroof no folddown seat sedan may be stiffer than the coupe with the 2 extra holes. I've got one of those "stiffer" sedans if anyone is interested. ;-) Chris 97 M3/4 ---- Rich Dorffer <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> wrote: > No worries, no one else has any data to support it either. > > :-) > > The coupe and sedan have no appreciable difference in rigidity. > > Regards, > > Rich >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Power Steering - from Mark D
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:45:35 -0500 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Steering Jim Bassett wrote: > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 10:36:27 -0800 (PST) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power Steering > > On Thu, November 29, 2007 10:04 am, Robert Exconde wrote: > >> Well, I thought that I read somewhere that if you change the rack you have >> to change the pump too because the old pump wont keep up with the new >> rack. >> > > Not true as far as I know. I changed the rack on the M3 years ago, worked > just fine with the original pump. (I did eventually replace the pump, 5 > years and 80,000 miles later.) > > Back when I replaced the rack (in 2001, 100K miles ago :-)), the total of > everything was ~$1200. Rack, tie rods, reservoir, fluid, labor. Looking at > Bimmerparts.com, a reman'd ZF rack is $475. Tie rod end are $55. Reservoir > - $25. I'd do all the hoses too (~$250). $860 in parts, probably a 2-3 > hour job, so $200-$300 labor. > > >> I am in for the long haul unless I can find a new daily driver that is as >> fun as this one and I have yet to find one. :) >> > > Yep, I know the feeling. I'm planning on an engine rebuild next year - > whether it's before or after the race car suspension overhaul is TBD :-) > I still cannot believe that no one has found a newer suitable replacement vehicle for less than $20K?! I'd even take a car with more than 100,000 miles but why would I go after a 99 m3 with 80,000 miles just to dump my 96 with 200,000 miles (and loads of service already done)? I don't see the point. Do an engine overhaul, replace all the bushings, keep it garaged and go. I still can't believe I don't really want to get rid of my car after 5 years. The E36 M3 is an amazing vehicle. Thanks, Mark
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs; OT structural rigidity - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 16:34:13 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs; OT structural rigidity On Nov 29, 2007 3:15 PM, Carlos Lopez <clopez98m3@gmail.com> wrote: > On 11/29/07, Rich Dorffer <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> wrote: > > The coupe and sedan have no appreciable difference in rigidity. > > Where's your data? Both the sedan and the coupe have the same or similar A, B and C pillars. The front and rear construction are essentially the same. The roofs and windshields are essentially the same. Conversly, the sedan does have four openings cut into the sides of the vehicle for doors whereas the coupe only has two. I am sure folding versus non-folding rear seats and sunroof versus solid roof come into play on an indvidual basis but I am comparing apples-to-apples. 100s of E36 race drivers use either the coupe or the sedan for racing purposes at all levels of racing. If the sedan had an appreciable advantage, I would think the racers would be particularly partial to the sedan (although there could be other advantages/disadvantages to each platform as well). :-) I know that there was a negligible rigidity difference between the E46 coupe and E46 sedan. Later, Rich - plans to buy an E36 M3 sedan in the spring to add to the coupe currently in the fleet...
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs - from Azik [hotmail.com]
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 01:06:40 +0100 From: "Azik [hotmail.com]" <Azik@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs Neil, Thank you for your reply. I went to Turner site and they ship only to US ;) Actually on the Nurburgring the car touched the barrier as my friend, much more experienced driver (he driver modified M3 E46 on semislicks on Nurburgring) lost control after braking in the corner because of one stupid biker. the car seems to be more or less stable unless you the road is not perfect or you need to do some corrections. The tire pressure was correct. initially I overinflated rears as per BMW recommendation but we reduced it to make it more in line with fronts but slightly higher. So here is what I did: 1. made alignment of both front and rear. some number were not inside tolerances but nothing big. 2. shortly after the trip the RSM started to make sound so I replaced them with aftermarket Items, which are slightly reinforced, I've been told by another racing driver. 3. Then I went to make braking and shockabsorber test. Interesting results. rears are about 25% softer than fronts. the car has 105 000km, so pretty low mileage. And brakes are just fine, no difference. but except one thing. the rear right wheel is taking more energy to spin than left one. so the brake balance is not perfect although in tolerances. (only 4 % difference on rear wheels) So do you think that most probably its shocks together with sticking brakes (reason for resistance on right rear wheel, or may be it is bearing)? And what about these reinforcements on the sides of the bushing to stop them from flexing? http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/images/E36_46Rtoe.jpg Unfortunately I couldn't prove whether it helped or not. I tried to simulate violent braking and it was all more or less OK but I couldn't push myself to drive very fast on the local roads. so will wait for next track session next year. And don't worry, I am going to install X-brace very soon - I have friend in a local garage :) Thanks again for your reply Azar '97 528iA and '98 M3 Coupe (oOO \ (||||)(||||) / OOo) Celle, Germany ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 6:24 PM Subject: [E36M3] Re: Flanged RTABs > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 12:18:17 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Flanged RTABs > > on 11/29/07 11:24 AM, "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > >> Original RTABs can be had at places like Turner > > Guys, the original poster clearly indicated that he's in Germany. I doubt > that he'll be planning on mail order from Turner. There may or may not be > any original RTABs available to him over there. > > On the other hand I also highly doubt that the new Z4 RTABs are causing > the > rear end instability he described. > > on 11/29/07 6:44 AM, "Azik [hotmail.com]" <Azik@hotmail.com> wrote: > >> I had some instability during hard braking from high speed- rear was >> trying to >> get loose from side to side. > > I'd be looking at alignment (both front and rear), tires/air pressure, or > possibly worn out rear shocks. Maybe even a corroded/sticking brake > caliper? > >> Would stiffening the front do this even worse? > > No it won't. The E36 chassis has a somewhat, umm, flexible front > structure, > at least by current standards. Think of a sturdy cardboard shipping carton > that's tightly taped up along all the edges. Pretty rigid, right? Now take > a > sharp knife and cut out most of the bottom and most of the top. Oh yeah, > and > make whole bunch of holes in the front and sides. How rigid is it now? > > This pretty much describes the front end of a car, which is open on the > underside and has a non-structural hood/bonnet on the top, holes for the > wheels and radiator grille, and so on. > > The X-brace makes a significant improvement to that, and is the probably > single best bang-for-the-buck thing you can do to our cars. > > Azar, I do understand why lying under the car during a German winter isn't > all that attractive! You might consider taking it to someone with a lift, > even a local gas station. Once the car is up in the air the X-brace > installation is a 5-minute bolt-on job. > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Feeler - Anyone looking for a project car? - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 06:50:00 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Feeler - Anyone looking for a project car? Thanks for all the interest in my M3, I reached an agreement to sell it last night. I apologize to anyone who asked questions and to whom I have not responded directly, I was overwhelmed with inquiries. Thanks again folks. Jamie Howton 06 M Roadster 04 645Ci
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#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: Instrument cluster removal - from Bill and Jan Klemme
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 10:51:51 -0500 From: Bill and Jan Klemme <wklemme@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Instrument cluster removal Right. And on that note, the manual says to disconnect the battery first and that is the main reason I am apprehensive about removing the wheel, which as you say looks like an easy task. Is it REALLY necessary to disconnect the battery before unplugging the air bag? I have not fooled with air bag cars yet and simply do not know what happens when you unplug the thing with power available. I visualize this huge explosion in my face. Resetting codes after disconnecting the battery is my problem I guess, and maybe that's the underlying question which should have been asked of this group first: what has to be done after reconnecting the battery? Is it a big deal? Thanks for all the help. Bill K Burgess, Kim L wrote: > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 08:48:27 -0800 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > Subject: RE: Instrument cluster removal > > The question remains has anyone with a late model 3-Spoke wheel removed > the cluster. I've replaced the bulbs for back lighting but was unable to > fully remove the cluster for fear of damaging the wheel of dash. Of > course I've later learned that removing the wheel is little more than a > 15 minute job. Be sure to mark the steering shaft and the metallic > splines in the wheel to re-align the wheel in the column. I used a cold > chisel/hammer to make the mark. > > KLB > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 06:45:14 -0500 > From: Bill and Jan Klemme <wklemme@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Instrument cluster removal > > That sounds way too easy based on my experience yesterday. I am > beginning to wonder if my steering wheel is a different design than .... > > I don't know, earlier models? Mine is a 1999 and some publications I've > seen don't recognize the '99 as an E36 since apparently the E46 came out > that year. My Bentley manual for example for the 3-series says > "....Sedan, Coupe and Convertible 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, > 1998" but has a copyright date of 1999. > > Could it be that mine has a newer model steering wheel? It is > definitely too fat on the inside to allow that cluster to come > out....and it's not _evenly_ fat in back...some spots are fatter than > others so it has to be rotated. There is no way I would be able to reach > in behind the cluster to unplug the connectors either. I am not a > mechanical dummy but I AM getting old....maybe I'm missing something. > > Best regards, > Bill K > 99 M3 convertible (80% snowmobile, 20% beach cruiser) > 92 M5 (garage queen) > 93 Volvo wagon (parts mover) > > > > >
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#9. RE: [E36M3] RE: Instrument cluster removal - from Matt Bader
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 10:59:23 -0500 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Instrument cluster removal Disconnecting the battery will clear all fault codes stored in the system. Shouldn't effect the sound system, although it might wipe the button memory. Computer will have to be reset with correct date, time, etc. When I have worked on airbag equipped cars it was usually recommended to disconnect battery and remove fuse both. I imagine if you do this prior to disconnecting any connectors to the airbag it will not generate a fault code if all is hooked back up prior to restoring power. Shouldn't be a big deal. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 Delaware -----Original Message----- From: Bill and Jan Klemme [mailto:wklemme@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:52 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Instrument cluster removal Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 10:51:51 -0500 From: Bill and Jan Klemme <wklemme@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Instrument cluster removal Right. And on that note, the manual says to disconnect the battery first and that is the main reason I am apprehensive about removing the wheel, which as you say looks like an easy task. Is it REALLY necessary to disconnect the battery before unplugging the air bag? I have not fooled with air bag cars yet and simply do not know what happens when you unplug the thing with power available. I visualize this huge explosion in my face. Resetting codes after disconnecting the battery is my problem I guess, and maybe that's the underlying question which should have been asked of this group first: what has to be done after reconnecting the battery? Is it a big deal? Thanks for all the help. Bill K Burgess, Kim L wrote: > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 08:48:27 -0800 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > Subject: RE: Instrument cluster removal > > The question remains has anyone with a late model 3-Spoke wheel removed > the cluster. I've replaced the bulbs for back lighting but was unable to > fully remove the cluster for fear of damaging the wheel of dash. Of > course I've later learned that removing the wheel is little more than a > 15 minute job. Be sure to mark the steering shaft and the metallic > splines in the wheel to re-align the wheel in the column. I used a cold > chisel/hammer to make the mark. > > KLB > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 06:45:14 -0500 > From: Bill and Jan Klemme <wklemme@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Instrument cluster removal > > That sounds way too easy based on my experience yesterday. I am > beginning to wonder if my steering wheel is a different design than .... > > I don't know, earlier models? Mine is a 1999 and some publications I've > seen don't recognize the '99 as an E36 since apparently the E46 came out > that year. My Bentley manual for example for the 3-series says > "....Sedan, Coupe and Convertible 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, > 1998" but has a copyright date of 1999. > > Could it be that mine has a newer model steering wheel? It is > definitely too fat on the inside to allow that cluster to come > out....and it's not _evenly_ fat in back...some spots are fatter than > others so it has to be rotated. There is no way I would be able to reach > in behind the cluster to unplug the connectors either. I am not a > mechanical dummy but I AM getting old....maybe I'm missing something. > > Best regards, > Bill K > 99 M3 convertible (80% snowmobile, 20% beach cruiser) > 92 M5 (garage queen) > 93 Volvo wagon (parts mover) > > > > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] OT: e46 323 Diff Bushings (now Diff whine) - from Bill and Jan Klemme
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 11:03:38 -0500 From: Bill and Jan Klemme <wklemme@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: e46 323 Diff Bushings (now Diff whine) > > > Another data point, the diff was whining in that car when cold only > and only between 20 and 40mph. I drained and filled with royal purple > 75W90 and it's nice and quiet now. This is interesting .... since it started getting cold a few weeks ago I have heard a whine (I would almost call it a whistle) which increases in pitch and volume as road speed increases, but it sounds a lot like my old Volvo 240 drive shaft center bearing did when it was starting to head south. Not an unpleasant or alarming noise really, but you know cars aren't supposed to sound that way. Could this whistle be the differential or is that guibo joint a possibility, like the bearing in the Volvo? It's difficult to determine exactly where it's coming from but sounds like right underneath me. Regards, Bill K P.S. Who makes Royal Purple?