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#1. Re: [E36M3] Dish detergent for cars - from Marc Plante
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Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:59:58 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dish detergent for cars Actually, Sal Zaino specifically recommends something like Dawn or Palmolive to get the old wax off before refinishing. Exactly the same reason that most people recommend against it. His site is very thorough. I usually use a bit of a mild car detergent, but when doign the semi annual, I use the kitchen stuff to get back down to the raw finish. ....Here we go with the wax religious wars. Marc E36 M3/4/5 92k Vienna, VA
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Paint care - from Reed Nicholson
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Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:04:33 -0800 From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Paint care I took it that he was recommending Dawn specifically for the purpose of removing the wax before clay treatment, and not as a product for routine car washing. Reed/Seattle > > The only dish detergent that is any good for cars is Ivory. > > Look at www.dccarcare.com for more tips. > > Paul L Fisher > > 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic > > Become a BMW CCA Member! > > Elkhorn, WI. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Duncan Burke [mailto:pureone55@yahoo.com] > Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 4:02 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Paint care > > Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 13:59:55 -0800 (PST) > From: Duncan Burke <pureone55@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Paint care > > NO DAWN!!! That is for dishes, not cars. > > Wash the car as you would normally with a car wash. > You need two buckets, both with grit guards. One has soapy > water one has clean water. Rinse your mitt in the clean > water reload with soap and wash. Wash from the top of the > car down! You should be washing below the beltline trim last, > all the way around the car. I really like Meguiar's NXT for > the pH balancing properties in it as well as Chemical Guys > Citrus Wash and Gloss. > > Clay, a generic clay bar should be fine, spay a Quick > Detailer type product on the paint and rub paint with the > clay, you should work in small areas, when there is no drag > on the clay, move on to another area. > > Wash the car again. > > Polish. You want to use the least abrasive of polish/pad > combo for paint correction. You will make a couple trips > around the car, first your paint correction trip, this will > likely be your most abrasive pass, removing swirls etc. The > second will be your finish polish pass, this will remove any > haze left from paint correction and give your ultimate shine. > I really like the Menzerna polishing system. > > Seal. This is where you seal the paint from contaminants. > Pick your favorite lay it on, walk away for a few hours, come > back and remove. Poorboys EX-P rocks. > > Wax on, wax off. This is where the ultimate gloss comes out. > Wax is a protectant of everything under it. The synthetics > last longer than the natural carnubas. If you use a > synthetic sealer, use a synthetic wax. Mixing types of > sealer and topper wax don't always yield the best results. > There are a ton of these that I like Poorboys Natty's Blue, > Pinnacle Souveran, Meguiar's NXT, all solid pulls. > > Sites for product, reference and how-to: > www.chemicalguys.com > www.autogeek.net forums > detailing forum at bf.com user FMINUS and totoland are > INSANE-O good. > > Once you get started its a sickness, I have thou$and$ in > detailing products and equipment. I like nothing better than > a correction project and plan on learning the rotary buffer > in 08, because that is the required tool for real, true > filler-free paint correction. > > Later, > db >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Dish detergent for cars - from Duncan Burke
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Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:28:01 -0800 (PST) From: Duncan Burke <pureone55@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dish detergent for cars There is no need to ever use a dish soap. I don't see why someone who recommends claying would recommend dish soap. There isn't any wax, polish, or sealant that will be on the car after claying. Those products are such a small part of what you remove from the finish of a car, I don't see the benefit of using a tool not designed for the job. Even the pro detailers that I know that are part of the Zaino cult don't use dish soap. Most of the current crop of good car washes have pH balancers/water softeners in them. This will reduce water spotting. Car washes are designed to be extremely sudsy. This is how the dirt is carried off of you car. The dirt travels in the bubble. If there is not adequate sudsyness (?) you will only be giving yourself a greater likelihood of creating your swirl marks. Increasing the amount of correction that you have to do. At $5-7 for a bottle of proper car wash, its the least we can do for our cars. Later, db --- Marc Plante <marcva@gmail.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:59:58 -0500 > From: "Marc Plante" <marcva@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dish detergent for cars > > Actually, > Sal Zaino specifically recommends something like > Dawn or Palmolive to get > the old wax off before refinishing. Exactly the > same reason that most > people recommend against it. His site is very > thorough. > > I usually use a bit of a mild car detergent, but > when doign the semi annual, > I use the kitchen stuff to get back down to the raw > finish. > > ...Here we go with the wax religious wars. > > Marc > E36 M3/4/5 92k > Vienna, VA > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Paint care - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:53:21 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Paint care On Sunday 30 December 2007 9:21:48 am Marc Plante wrote: > I'll throw in a Vote fo Sal Zaino. His paint sealer works great, though I > attribute it to the meticulous preparation that he recommends. I have heard nothing but praise for the Zaino stuff, never tried it myself though. I like the P21S products. The paint cleaner works very well as does the carnauba was they sell. Easy on, easy off, and really provides good results. The 'total auto wash' they sell is also great for cleaning off the outer layer of crud, and it also works very well for cleaning under the hood. Their wheel cleaner kicks butt too. Dave
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Paint care - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 18:57:15 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Paint care That's what I've been told as well. We do it once a year when we want to remove everything down to the clear coat before claying and spending hours applying many coats of Zaino. -jeff ----- Original Message ---- From: Reed Nicholson <reedthis@comcast.net> I took it that he was recommending Dawn specifically for the purpose of removing the wax before clay treatment, and not as a product for routine car washing. Reed/Seattle > The only dish detergent that is any good for cars is Ivory. > > Look at www.dccarcare.com for more tips. > > Paul L Fisher > > 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic > > Become a BMW CCA Member! > > Elkhorn, WI. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Duncan Burke [mailto:pureone55@yahoo.com] > > NO DAWN!!! That is for dishes, not cars. > > Wash the car as you would normally with a car wash. > You need two buckets, both with grit guards. One has soapy > water one has clean water. Rinse your mitt in the clean > water reload with soap and wash. Wash from the top of the > car down! You should be washing below the beltline trim last, > all the way around the car. I really like Meguiar's NXT for > the pH balancing properties in it as well as Chemical Guys > Citrus Wash and Gloss. > > Clay, a generic clay bar should be fine, spay a Quick > Detailer type product on the paint and rub paint with the > clay, you should work in small areas, when there is no drag > on the clay, move on to another area. > > Wash the car again. > > Polish. You want to use the least abrasive of polish/pad > combo for paint correction. You will make a couple trips > around the car, first your paint correction trip, this will > likely be your most abrasive pass, removing swirls etc. The > second will be your finish polish pass, this will remove any > haze left from paint correction and give your ultimate shine. > I really like the Menzerna polishing system. > > Seal. This is where you seal the paint from contaminants. > Pick your favorite lay it on, walk away for a few hours, come > back and remove. Poorboys EX-P rocks. > > Wax on, wax off. This is where the ultimate gloss comes out. > Wax is a protectant of everything under it. The synthetics > last longer than the natural carnubas. If you use a > synthetic sealer, use a synthetic wax. Mixing types of > sealer and topper wax don't always yield the best results. > There are a ton of these that I like Poorboys Natty's Blue, > Pinnacle Souveran, Meguiar's NXT, all solid pulls. > > Sites for product, reference and how-to: > www.chemicalguys.com > www.autogeek.net forums > detailing forum at bf.com user FMINUS and totoland are > INSANE-O good. > > Once you get started its a sickness, I have thou$and$ in > detailing products and equipment. I like nothing better than > a correction project and plan on learning the rotary buffer > in 08, because that is the required tool for real, true > filler-free paint correction. > > Later, > db ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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#6. 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( - from Paul Smith
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Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:41:04 -0500 From: "Paul Smith" <Paul.Smith@OntarioSystems.com> Subject: 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( Not that I want to move the vehicle (owned it 5 years and it is paid off :)). I am thinking of putting the sedan on the block. It is pretty modded - $3000 dollar stereo (+), new Koni SA coilovers and camber plates, JTD front and rear stress bars, ITG/Borla, customized door panels for speakers and gauges on dash - where they can be seen. My question is, do I take it back to stock to sell? Sell it as is? This is a money question. I need to get the most out of it and do not care about taking it back to original and selling parts. Thanks in advance! Paul Attention: This message and all attachments are private and may contain information that is confidential and privileged. If you received this message in error, please notify the sender by reply email and delete the message immediately.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( - from Ed MacVaugh
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Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:57:58 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( Paul, It probably depends upon where in the world you are located. Here in Maryland, where you must pass an inspection to register a car, closer to stock on the suspension is certainly an easier way to sell a car. Likewise the stereo would be a selling point here, where it might not be in New York City, since cars up there drive around with signs that say "no radio". Ed Paul Smith wrote: > Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:41:04 -0500 > From: "Paul Smith" <Paul.Smith@OntarioSystems.com> > Subject: 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( > > Not that I want to move the vehicle (owned it 5 years and it is paid off > :)). I am thinking of putting the sedan on the block. It is pretty > modded - $3000 dollar stereo (+), new Koni SA coilovers and camber > plates, JTD front and rear stress bars, ITG/Borla, customized door > panels for speakers and gauges on dash - where they can be seen. My > question is, do I take it back to stock to sell? Sell it as is? This is > a money question. I need to get the most out of it and do not care about > taking it back to original and selling parts. > Thanks in advance! > Paul
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#8. Re: car washing - from steve crowl
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Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 09:08:49 -0600 From: "steve crowl" <stcrowl@gmail.com> Subject: Re: car washing I was on a Taurus SHO mailing list like this one in the mid-90s and witnessed an annual argument about whether to use dish washing soap. I think it *is* preferred when trying to remove wax. Obligatory M3 content: that SHO mailing list got me interested in an M3. One of the list members, a Ford engineer, once wrote something to the effect that he'd driven an e36 M3 and that was a car he'd like to own. Steve Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 13:59:55 -0800 (PST) From: Duncan Burke <pureone55@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Paint care NO DAWN!!! That is for dishes, not cars.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 07:28:06 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <e36m3@kshephard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( HI, As someone whom has sold many cars. You will nor get the money you put into it, out. Remove the items, sell them. Sell the car as stock. Unless you get someone that really likes the car as is, you stand to lose money for extras. Kent On Dec 31, 2007, at 5:51 AM, Paul Smith wrote: > Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:41:04 -0500 > From: "Paul Smith" <Paul.Smith@OntarioSystems.com> > Subject: 1998 M3/4/5 sale question :( > > Not that I want to move the vehicle (owned it 5 years and it is > paid off > :)). I am thinking of putting the sedan on the block. It is pretty > modded - $3000 dollar stereo (+), new Koni SA coilovers and camber > plates, JTD front and rear stress bars, ITG/Borla, customized door > panels for speakers and gauges on dash - where they can be seen. My > question is, do I take it back to stock to sell? Sell it as is? > This is > a money question. I need to get the most out of it and do not care > about > taking it back to original and selling parts. > Thanks in advance! > Paul >
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#10. Drive axle removal help needed - from Dmitri Zorine
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Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:30:07 -0500 From: "Dmitri Zorine" <dmitri@dz-inc.com> Subject: Drive axle removal help needed Hi all. I've had a slight mishap with my 99 M, as a result driver side lower control arm was bent, which I finally replaced. Buttoned everything up and went for a test drive. Within 3 miles I lost the power to the rear wheel. Got it back up on the stands and the driver side drive axle apparently had popped out. There is about 1/2-3/4" gap between the inner CV joint and the flange on the diff. As well as it's definitely loose and not making connection to the splines in the wheel hub. I looked at Bentley's, and on paper it looks so simple. Not so easy from under the car. The collar nut is some funny gargantual sized torx shaped nut (does anyone have specs on what size that nut is, to buy the right socket?), tightened to 220+ ft-lb. The inner CV joint bolts are torx too, and hard to get to without dropping the exhaust. I'm tempted to just take it to a shop and let them do it for me. But if there are any BTDT suggestions with tricks and tips to make the job easy or, at least, easier, I might try to do it myself. Like the size of the torx collar nut, a good source for torx sockets? So any advice is highly appreciated. Dmitri