E36M3 #5541

Sunday, January 13, 2008 15:10:54

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Harness bar? - from Carey Probst
#2. Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol - from Jon Siccardi - Treehouse
#3. Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol - from Daniel Lowe
#4. RE: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol - from Matt Bader
#5. RE: [E36M3] Harness bar? - from Paul Andrews
#6. Slip ring lubrication for the BMW E36 M3 Steering Wheel - from Skip Bogard
#7. Re: [E36M3] Steering wheel - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#8. removing air from calipers after a rebuild? - from Chris Papademetrious
#9. RE: [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? - from Matt Bader
#10. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? - from Marco Romani

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Harness bar? - from Carey Probst
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 18:16:11 -0500 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Harness bar? The Schroth 4, 5 or 6 points with ASM are definitely safe and meet all specs plus can be purchased as track or DOT legal for some versions. If you have any questions about them contact Joe Marko at HMSMotorsport.com. He is a NASCAR supplier(and if I remember correctly, on the NASCAR safety group) as well as BMW CCA club racing sponsor and an all around good guy. I have the 6 point Schroths in my track car and the 4 point Autocontrols in my M3. His only warning to me is that if I decide to go with a HANS device I have to replace the ASM straps with non-ASM models. ASM and HANS don't play nice together. Carey Scott McClung wrote: > Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:47:37 -0800 (PST) > From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Harness bar? > > Harness bars are generally not very safe - IMHO. > Maybe OK for low speed autox, but I personally would > not trust one for a high speed track event. In a > roll-over situation if the roof section is collapsed > at all there is no support for the harness rendering > it basically useless. Stock safety system or a 4 or 6 > point roll bar w/ harness bar is the minimum I > personally will accept as safety equipment. Of > course, I much prefer a full cage w/ NASCAR door bars > like in my race car. > > The 4-point harness mentioned below might be > acceptable, but before using it I would get the > opinion of someone more knowlegable in racing safety > equipment. > > Scott > NASA CMC #82 Camaro > '69 Camaro Pro-Touring > '05 S4 Avant > > > --- Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> wrote: > > >> Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 16:47:44 -0500 >> From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> >> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Harness bar? >> >> What about the Schroth 4-point harnesses? You add a >> mounting point on the >> outside of each front seat next to the existing belt >> anchors, the other side >> mounts into the stock female ends, you mount a >> female end to the back seat >> anchor on the passenger side, and then the drivers >> side anchors to the >> existing seat belt anchors located on the driver's >> side rear seat. They >> have the ASM device, and are supposed to be DOT >> approved, etc. These are >> designed to work specifically with stock seats, >> including the stock belt >> tensioner system. I have them on my car, but >> haven't had a chance to test >> them in real-world driving situations (e.g. autox or >> HPDE) since I just >> installed them recently. >> >> Matt Bader >> 98 M3/4 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Paul Andrews [mailto:emosound@verizon.net] >> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 3:50 PM >> To: E36M3 >> Subject: [E36M3] Harness bar? >> >> Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 15:44:03 -0500 >> From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> >> Subject: Harness bar? >> >> Does anyone have this Sparco harness bar? >> >> > http://www.motorsportseats.com/sparco/harness_bars.html > >> Likes, dislikes, other alternatives for a 98 M3 >> sedan? I'm considering it >> for autocross and possible DE. >> Where else would one mount the shoulder harnesses in >> a sedan without a cage >> or rollbar? >> >> Paul Andrews >> 98 M3/4 >> # 42 STU >> >> >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our >> sponsors: >> >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> Eurosport High Performance >> http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >> Elephant Motorsports Inc. >> http://www.elephantmotorsports.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> >> >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our >> sponsors: >> >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> Eurosport High Performance >> http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >> Elephant Motorsports Inc. >> http://www.elephantmotorsports.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> >> >> >> > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > -- Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: hcprobst@alum.mit.edu A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.

Reply to: Carey Probst

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol - from Jon Siccardi - Treehouse
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 02:20:43 -0600 From: "Jon Siccardi - Treehouse" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol It's $9 here in Tennessee! Jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #053 TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 8:40 AM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol > Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 09:33:55 -0500 > From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol > > $14 ?!?!? In PA, not every county has emissions testing, but the counties > around Philly do. Between the emissions and inspection fees, it's usually > $50-$80. EVERY YEAR. > Imagine my joy at forking over $80 for them to tell me that my 135k mile > Miata with the original cat passed emissions with flying colors, nowhere > near the limit. Thanks. > > Even OBDII cars, like my M3 and Legacy GT, get charged a bunch. Most of > the > fee comes from the state, but at least just about every shop and dealer > can > do the inspections and testing, no special state emissions places. > > Hmm, that came off a bit more rant-like than I wanted... > > Paul Andrews > 98 M3/4 > # 42 STU > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Sperry [mailto:richardsperry@comcast.net] > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 8:20 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol > > Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 08:13:38 -0500 > From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> > Subject: Emissions testing...lol > > I went to get the old girl tested yesterday too. In Maryland OBD1 cars do > the treadmill test on rollers. I pulled right up, and handed the really > young guy the notice, paid the $14 fee, and went to the waiting area... > The > kid looks for the cats with the bomb inspection mirror, checks the gas > cap, > and then looks at the wheels. He scratchs his head, get on his knees, > stands > > up, more scratching... Hummmm. > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

Reply to: Jon Siccardi - Treehouse

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol - from Daniel Lowe
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:21:22 -0500 From: "Daniel Lowe" <blackjackbimmer@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol Inspections? Emissions testing? Don't have 'em here in Kentucky. Run straight pipes all you want. I know a guy that has cars lined up before dawn every Saturday to do "special" exhaust work. Dan On Jan 10, 2008 3:30 AM, Jon Siccardi - Treehouse <jon@treehouseracing.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 02:20:43 -0600 > From: "Jon Siccardi - Treehouse" <jon@treehouseracing.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol > > It's $9 here in Tennessee! > > Jon > > > Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 09:33:55 -0500 > > From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> > > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol > > > > $14 ?!?!? In PA, not every county has emissions testing, but the > counties > > around Philly do. Between the emissions and inspection fees, it's > usually > > $50-$80. EVERY YEAR. > > Imagine my joy at forking over $80 for them to tell me that my 135k mile > > Miata with the original cat passed emissions with flying colors, nowhere > > near the limit. Thanks. > > > > > > > Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 08:13:38 -0500 > > From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> > > Subject: Emissions testing...lol > > > > I went to get the old girl tested yesterday too. In Maryland OBD1 cars > do > > the treadmill test on rollers. I pulled right up, and handed the really > > young guy the notice, paid the $14 fee, and went to the waiting area... >

Reply to: Daniel Lowe

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#4. RE: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol - from Matt Bader
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:37:52 -0500 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol Not fair. Things haven't changed much since Coal Miner's Daughter came out I guess. Eventually, I would think that all states will be mandated to test for emissions compliance. A group of Eastern States sued the EPA because the EPA was claiming that it did not have regulatory authority to mandate air quality standards for automobiles (IIRC). Anyway, I believe the EPA lost that case late last year. Matt Bader (registering my car in Kentucky next time) 98 M3/4 Delaware (not as strict as some states, but getting there.) -----Original Message----- From: Daniel Lowe [mailto:blackjackbimmer@gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 12:30 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:21:22 -0500 From: "Daniel Lowe" <blackjackbimmer@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol Inspections? Emissions testing? Don't have 'em here in Kentucky. Run straight pipes all you want. I know a guy that has cars lined up before dawn every Saturday to do "special" exhaust work. Dan On Jan 10, 2008 3:30 AM, Jon Siccardi - Treehouse <jon@treehouseracing.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 02:20:43 -0600 > From: "Jon Siccardi - Treehouse" <jon@treehouseracing.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol > > It's $9 here in Tennessee! > > Jon > > > Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 09:33:55 -0500 > > From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> > > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Emissions testing...lol > > > > $14 ?!?!? In PA, not every county has emissions testing, but the > counties > > around Philly do. Between the emissions and inspection fees, it's > usually > > $50-$80. EVERY YEAR. > > Imagine my joy at forking over $80 for them to tell me that my 135k mile > > Miata with the original cat passed emissions with flying colors, nowhere > > near the limit. Thanks. > > > > > > > Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 08:13:38 -0500 > > From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> > > Subject: Emissions testing...lol > > > > I went to get the old girl tested yesterday too. In Maryland OBD1 cars > do > > the treadmill test on rollers. I pulled right up, and handed the really > > young guy the notice, paid the $14 fee, and went to the waiting area... > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to: Matt Bader

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#5. RE: [E36M3] Harness bar? - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:04:27 -0500 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Harness bar? I had a Schroth Rallye in my GTI, and I hated it. I'm skinny, and the shoulder belts don't come to a common point on the lap belt, so I felt like my chest was sticking out of the harness. With the rear point going down to the stock rear seatbelt anchors, the belt was compressing my spine. And if it was tight enough to hold me in the seat, it would pull the lap belt up. I had a real 5-point harness in my Miata with a roll bar, and I loved it. But the M3 isn't getting a rollbar..... Paul Andrews 98 M3/4 # 42 STU -----Original Message----- From: Matt Bader [mailto:mbader@exammaster.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 4:48 PM To: 'Paul Andrews'; 'E36M3' Subject: RE: [E36M3] Harness bar? What about the Schroth 4-point harnesses? You add a mounting point on the outside of each front seat next to the existing belt anchors, the other side mounts into the stock female ends, you mount a female end to the back seat anchor on the passenger side, and then the drivers side anchors to the existing seat belt anchors located on the driver's side rear seat. They have the ASM device, and are supposed to be DOT approved, etc. These are designed to work specifically with stock seats, including the stock belt tensioner system. I have them on my car, but haven't had a chance to test them in real-world driving situations (e.g. autox or HPDE) since I just installed them recently. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Paul Andrews [mailto:emosound@verizon.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 3:50 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Harness bar? Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 15:44:03 -0500 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: Harness bar? Does anyone have this Sparco harness bar? http://www.motorsportseats.com/sparco/harness_bars.html Likes, dislikes, other alternatives for a 98 M3 sedan? I'm considering it for autocross and possible DE. Where else would one mount the shoulder harnesses in a sedan without a cage or rollbar? Paul Andrews 98 M3/4 # 42 STU

Reply to: Paul Andrews

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#6. Slip ring lubrication for the BMW E36 M3 Steering Wheel - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 21:40:11 -0500 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Slip ring lubrication for the BMW E36 M3 Steering Wheel > > >> On Wed, January 9, 2008 10:20 am, Richard Sperry wrote: > > There is a special copper anti seize, used on the slip ring, > (go figure dealer says it a 5# > tub > and 100's of $) That is just so much dealer obfuscation. It's 3M Part Number 08945 as spelled out in my BMW Fluids & Lubricants microfiche. As Jim Bassett said, it's true that you need anti-seize with copper. You also needs a sacrificial compound "Zinc Oxide" that protects electrical connections from corrosion. DO NOT USE a product that has calcium carbonate in lieu of zinc oxide....even if it has copper in it. Wait a minute...don't hit delete or turn off your screen...I'll be back... ...... (go get yourself a soda or beer, come back to your screen in 2 minutes.... I wrote on this subject years ago...it has to be on the internet somewhere...) ....... ....... Here it is! My 2001 posting that Ron Stygar saved for eternity: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/drivetrain/all_slip_ring_lube.html Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:32:30 -0500 *From: Skip Bogard <Skip.Bogard@alumni.duke.edu> <mailto:Skip.Bogard_at_ALUMni.DUKE.edu>* *Subject: Re: [E36M3] Squeaking Steering <mailto:Skip.Bogard_at_ALUMni.DUKE.edu?SUBJECT=Re:%20%5BE36M3%5D%20Squeaking%20Steering>* > My steering wheel has developed a faint squeak, audible when turned to the > left about 40 degrees. ......................... Anyone know of a way to > lubricate this or otherwise make it stop? Steering wheel ring lubrication under "Groupe 32" of the BMW Fluids & Lubricants microfiche specifies that you use 3M part no. 8945. I have a can...it is basically a thick copper-oil-graphite conductive oily paste. And a dash of zinc-oxide. Mix well. I've opened cans of other manufacturer's Anti-Seize (like CRC's & Permatex) and they visibly look the same...like a bunch of micro-fine ground copper in a bay of sardine oil. An 8 ounce can gets you a brush in the cap, whose bristles usually are not up to standing against the stiffness of copper paste. But when I read MSDS's from 3M competitors, some have say aluminum in addition to copper, or calcium carbonate in lieu of zinc oxide (read this for more info: http://www.whitmores.com <http://www.whitmores.com>/TechInfoBulletins/TIB-1067.htm ) Is this cheapening out? I don't think so. If you manufactured tens of thousands of E36's like BMW, you'd really care about little details like this. The zinc oxide dust is self-sacrificing and can protect electrical connections. Who woulda thought the same thinking that went into zinc plating a gate hinge from your hardware store also went into the lube used in your M3 steering wheel? However, one company called A.S.T. sells thirteen types of anti-seize, each with varying amounts of copper, nickel, aluminum, zinc, graphite, oil, moly...(or leaves some ingredient out) for good reasons: http://www.astinfo.com <http://www.astinfo.com>/compounds.htm So you'll have to compare the Material Data Safety Sheets yourself to decide on another product if you don't want the BMW approved 3M product. p.s. any NAPA store has the 3M product...about $10 for a small can. BMW also lists a CRC product as approved, but I wrote CRC a while back and they tell me the part number on the BMW microfiche is not one of theirs. 3M Product details below. Cheers, * Skip Bogard *WHAT BMW RECOMMENDS FOR THE STEERING WHEEL LUBRICATION* TRADE NAME: 3M(TM) Brake Lube/Anti-Seize Compound, P.N. 08945 *ID NUMBER/U.P.C.: 60-9800-1747-3 00-51135-08945-3* MSDS ISSUED: August 17, 1999 MSDS SUPERSEDED: September 10, 1998 DOCUMENT: 11-6646-1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1. INGREDIENT C.A.S. NO. PERCENT ------------------------------------------------------------------------ *COPPER.................................. 7440-50-8 40.0 - 50.0* *HYDROTREATED RESIDUAL OIL (PETROLEUM)... 64742-57-0 30.0 - 45.0* GRAPHITE................................ 7782-42-5 5.0 - 15.0 BENTONITE............................... 1302-78-9 5.0 - 15.0 POLYISOBUTYLENE......................... 9003-27-4 1.0 - 10.0 ZINC OXIDE.............................. 1314-13-2 1.0 - 5.0

Reply to: Skip Bogard

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Steering wheel - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:13:48 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering wheel In a message dated 1/9/2008 1:20:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, richardsperry@comcast.net writes: There is a special copper anti seize, used on the slip ring, (go figure dealer says it a 5# tub and 100's of $) I talked to the lead mechaic and he just gave me a dab. Just to point out to those like me that will use the slightest excuse to "upgrade", this presents the opportunity to install the '98-'99 three spoke steering wheel with matching slip ring -- this slip ring does not rely on metal contact. Quiet as can be forever and I like the newer look with the metal roundel in the center and the M logo on the bottom spoke. But that's just me ;-)) You can find them on ebay, some in mint condition. Mine came from an M coupe that was immediately turned into a fully modified track car. I got lucky. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489

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#8. removing air from calipers after a rebuild? - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:58:26 -0500 From: "Chris Papademetrious" <chrispitude@gmail.com> Subject: removing air from calipers after a rebuild? Hi all, Since I don't drive the M3 much in the winter, I put it up on four jackstands while I rebuilt and repainted the calipers. Today I put the calipers back on the car. Since my brake reservoir was already filled up to MAX from a relatively recent flush this summer, I just put my Motive pressure bleeder on it and cracked each corner open with 10psi air pressure until fluid came out. I did this at all four corners, then started the car up to check pedal pressure. The pedal was spongy unless it was pumped repeatedly. This was not really surprising since I was filling the freshly rebuild calipers up with fluid. I shut down and checked the reservoir and still had plenty of fluid left, so I repeated the process. The pedal was a bit better but still a bit spongy. I could probably drive it in this condition though. The fluid level is now about halfway between the MAX and FILL levels. I coated the entire interior hydraulic cavity of each caliper with a thin coat of ATE brake caliper rebuild lube in the hopes of reducing air bubble formation as the fluid filled the cavity. (I figured a "wet" surface wouldn't form bubbles like a dry surface would.) The car is still up on four jackstands. Do I: 1. Leave the car sit over the next few snowy days because the air bubbles will just naturally coalesce and collect at the top. I could go down every day and tap the calipers with a rubber mallet. 2. Take car out for a careful drive this afternoon so that road vibration helps the air collect at the top, then in a few days, pull each wheel and rebleed. If there's more I can do while it's conveniently up on jackstands, I can do that. If the best thing now is to go drive it and give it a good shakedown, I can do that too. And finally, what pressure do you guys usually use with the Motive bleeder? It sure would be No Fun(tm) to pop the reservoir off the master cylinder. Thanks all for your wisdom, - Chris

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#9. RE: [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? - from Matt Bader
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 15:09:06 -0500 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? If I recall correctly, the Motive recommends somewhere around 20 psi max. You start with 10, check for leaks and then go to 20 PSI. Max pressure may vary depending on car model, but I had no issues when I completely bled the brakes and the clutch line at 20 psi. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Chris Papademetrious [mailto:chrispitude@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 3:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:58:26 -0500 From: "Chris Papademetrious" <chrispitude@gmail.com> Subject: removing air from calipers after a rebuild? Hi all, Since I don't drive the M3 much in the winter, I put it up on four jackstands while I rebuilt and repainted the calipers. Today I put the calipers back on the car. Since my brake reservoir was already filled up to MAX from a relatively recent flush this summer, I just put my Motive pressure bleeder on it and cracked each corner open with 10psi air pressure until fluid came out. I did this at all four corners, then started the car up to check pedal pressure. The pedal was spongy unless it was pumped repeatedly. This was not really surprising since I was filling the freshly rebuild calipers up with fluid. I shut down and checked the reservoir and still had plenty of fluid left, so I repeated the process. The pedal was a bit better but still a bit spongy. I could probably drive it in this condition though. The fluid level is now about halfway between the MAX and FILL levels. I coated the entire interior hydraulic cavity of each caliper with a thin coat of ATE brake caliper rebuild lube in the hopes of reducing air bubble formation as the fluid filled the cavity. (I figured a "wet" surface wouldn't form bubbles like a dry surface would.) The car is still up on four jackstands. Do I: 1. Leave the car sit over the next few snowy days because the air bubbles will just naturally coalesce and collect at the top. I could go down every day and tap the calipers with a rubber mallet. 2. Take car out for a careful drive this afternoon so that road vibration helps the air collect at the top, then in a few days, pull each wheel and rebleed. If there's more I can do while it's conveniently up on jackstands, I can do that. If the best thing now is to go drive it and give it a good shakedown, I can do that too. And finally, what pressure do you guys usually use with the Motive bleeder? It sure would be No Fun(tm) to pop the reservoir off the master cylinder. Thanks all for your wisdom, - Chris ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to: Matt Bader

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#10. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? - from Marco Romani
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 13:01:02 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? Tap the calipers with something harder than a rubber mallet, but you don't need to whack it real hard. Also - hopefully there isn't any air in the master cylinder - if it leaked down while you had the rest of the system apart that maybe your problem. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Chris Papademetrious [mailto:chrispitude@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 12:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] removing air from calipers after a rebuild? Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:58:26 -0500 From: "Chris Papademetrious" <chrispitude@gmail.com> Subject: removing air from calipers after a rebuild? Hi all, Since I don't drive the M3 much in the winter, I put it up on four jackstands while I rebuilt and repainted the calipers. Today I put the calipers back on the car. Since my brake reservoir was already filled up to MAX from a relatively recent flush this summer, I just put my Motive pressure bleeder on it and cracked each corner open with 10psi air pressure until fluid came out. I did this at all four corners, then started the car up to check pedal pressure. The pedal was spongy unless it was pumped repeatedly. This was not really surprising since I was filling the freshly rebuild calipers up with fluid. I shut down and checked the reservoir and still had plenty of fluid left, so I repeated the process. The pedal was a bit better but still a bit spongy. I could probably drive it in this condition though. The fluid level is now about halfway between the MAX and FILL levels. I coated the entire interior hydraulic cavity of each caliper with a thin coat of ATE brake caliper rebuild lube in the hopes of reducing air bubble formation as the fluid filled the cavity. (I figured a "wet" surface wouldn't form bubbles like a dry surface would.) The car is still up on four jackstands. Do I: 1. Leave the car sit over the next few snowy days because the air bubbles will just naturally coalesce and collect at the top. I could go down every day and tap the calipers with a rubber mallet. 2. Take car out for a careful drive this afternoon so that road vibration helps the air collect at the top, then in a few days, pull each wheel and rebleed. If there's more I can do while it's conveniently up on jackstands, I can do that. If the best thing now is to go drive it and give it a good shakedown, I can do that too. And finally, what pressure do you guys usually use with the Motive bleeder? It sure would be No Fun(tm) to pop the reservoir off the master cylinder. Thanks all for your wisdom, - Chris ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 12:00 AM

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