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#1. Re: scissor lift - from Colin S Whelan
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 18:48:14 -0500 From: Colin S Whelan <Colin_S_Whelan@raytheon.com> Subject: Re: scissor lift Dave, I'd estimate each platform at about 150 lbs or so, and the hydraulics at 75 lbs. I had it delivered to a local freight place. It came on a pallet, so we could easily pick each piece up and toss them in a pick-up. I paid about $1800 or so from www.asedeals.com. Thanks, Col
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#2. WTB:95 upper Spring plates - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 01:57:49 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: WTB:95 upper Spring plates Dear All, Does anyone have 95 upper spring plates & pads laying around that they want to sell? Please contact me directly. karamatm@optonline.net Regards Mo
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#3. Re: Removal of driveline from 96 M3 Coupe with Manual Transmission - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 06:29:02 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Removal of driveline from 96 M3 Coupe with Manual Transmission This is probably the easiest way to do it. Just make sure that you have the engine crane set up so that the engine tilts backward (i.e. towards the firewall) when you lift it. It's not hard to make that happen with the 65lb transmission hanging off the back. Shane K. <--- Too many engine changes > 5. Removal of driveline from 96 M3 Coupe with > Manual Transmission... > by: Stan Shaw <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
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#4. RE: Removal of driveline from 96 M3 Coupe with Manual Transmission - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 09:38:32 -0500 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: RE: Removal of driveline from 96 M3 Coupe with Manual Transmission Thanks Shane. In my youth, I pulled motors with transmissions that way often. I had a log in the attic of my father's garage with a chain wrapped around it and I would use a come-a-long to pull the motor. Worked pretty well, but my father used to complain about the "oil spills". Fond memories :) Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#5. Interior Stripping - from Resener, Kurt
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 16:15:51 -0500 From: "Resener, Kurt" <KurtResener@IamMorrison.com> Subject: Interior Stripping So it's 20 degrees out, salt over all of the roads, and I'm bored and I want to play with the M3. What better way to while away a cold and dreary weekend than to finally tear out the interior of my M3! I'm assuming getting the rear seat backs and carpet is fairly straightforward, but I'm wondering what method has met with the best success on getting the sound deadening material out? I was planning on using a heat gun and plastic putty knife, and using brake cleaner and rags to get any residue off. Those of you that have done this, does that leave a decent looking surface? I don't have the time or inclination to paint the floor, but I don't want a hideous, scratched up bare metal showing mess when I'm done either. Is that a reasonable expectation? I'm not planning on removing the dash, and it looks like the carpet disappears well above the dash, is there a way to yank it down or would simply taking a razor knife to it and slicing across be a workable solution? What's everyone's best guess as to the weight removed from a coupe with the rear seat, carpet, padding, sound deadening, and center console? Currently undecided on whether to take out the door panels. Kurt J. Resener DISCLAIMER Important! This message is intended for the above named person(s) only and is CONFIDENTIAL AND PROPRIETARY. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail and have received it in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and then delete it from your mailbox. This message may be protected by the attorney-client privilege and/or work product doctrine. Accessing, copying, disseminating or re-using any of the information contained in this e-mail by anyone other than the intended recipient is strictly prohibited. Finally, you should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses, as the sender accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this email. Thank you.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 13:23:17 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping On Jan 31, 2008, at 1:19 PM, Resener, Kurt wrote: > I'm assuming getting the rear seat backs and carpet is fairly > straightforward, but I'm wondering what method has met with the best > success on getting the sound deadening material out? > > I was planning on using a heat gun and plastic putty knife, and using > brake cleaner and rags to get any residue off. Yes. > Those of you that have done this, does that leave a decent looking > surface? Yes. You need to be a bit careful that you don't gouge the paint even with the plastic knife, but it will work. > I'm not planning on removing the dash, and it looks like the carpet > disappears well above the dash, is there a way to yank it down or > would > simply taking a razor knife to it and slicing across be a workable > solution? You can yank it down. > What's everyone's best guess as to the weight removed from a coupe > with > the rear seat, carpet, padding, sound deadening, and center console? > Currently undecided on whether to take out the door panels. 80-100 lbs. The sound deadening is close to 40 by itself. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing homepage at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 13:32:13 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping On Thu, January 31, 2008 1:19 pm, Resener, Kurt wrote: > I was planning on using a heat gun and plastic putty knife, and using > brake cleaner and rags to get any residue off. Sounds like a good plan. Use as lower a setting on the heat gun as you can get away with. Too hot and the sound deadening will turn to goo. You want it just soft enough to get the putty knife under it lift off. I actually used a hair dryer, IIRC. Brake clean and/or Goo-Gone/etc for getting the residue off, yes. > Those of you that have > done this, does that leave a decent looking surface? If you take your time, yeah. Flat surfaces mostly, and a not-too-wide putty knife should work fine. > Is that a > reasonable expectation? Yep. the race car didn't turn out too bad, although it's condition is worse after ~6 years of use :-) (Even though the interior was mostly gone when I bought it, there was still the sound deadening to remove.) > I'm not planning on removing the dash, and it looks like the carpet > disappears well above the dash, is there a way to yank it down or would > simply taking a razor knife to it and slicing across be a workable > solution? I *think* you can get to it all with out removing the dash; you'll have to remove the lower knee panels though. Good luck, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 13:36:06 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping On Jan 31, 2008, at 1:29 PM, Mark Dadgar wrote: >> I was planning on using a heat gun and plastic putty knife, and using >> brake cleaner and rags to get any residue off. > > Yes. I meant to also say that I found a handheld MAP gas torch (like a Benz- O-Matic) to work better than a heat gun. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing homepage at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping - from Walter J
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 18:12:35 -0500 From: "Walter J" <walter.gator@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping I had really good luck with a metal spackle knife, the trick seemed to be to just warm the deadener with the gun (not melting it) and then get the knife face HOT. There was no pressure - it just cut thru like butter. If you can stand the stink and have a fire extinguisher handy gasoline works better than brake cleaner or turpentine on the leftover stuff. I used a scotch-brite pad in place of rags[ obvious safety warnings go here ] -- Walter Jordan walter@offcambermotorsport.com http://offcambermotorsport.com
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Interior Stripping; weight savings - from Matt Bader
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 20:51:51 -0500 From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Interior Stripping; weight savings I have removed a ton of sound deadening material using a Black and Decker heat gun, set on medium. My challenge is to remove as much deadening material and other weight as possible while still leaving the car looking as stock as possible. The car is still used on the street. Thus far I have done the following: 1. Stripped everything out of the trunk except the battery. In addition to the cloth and fiber material, etc. there is the black sound deadening material on the back shelf area of the trunk. On a four door, with no access from the inside of the car, it's a bit of a pain to reach and get in there to do the scraping. I used a wooden scraping tool which seems to avoid leaving any scrape marks. 2. Back decklid. There is the foam type material under there as well as the sound deadening material. I removed the speakers, and all material and put the shelf back in. Speaker holes have been covered with cardboard and black duct tape to minimize sound from exhaust and trunk area. 3. Back seats. Plenty of sound deadening material behind the seat backs and under the seats. You have to be careful to avoid too much heat on the various wires running through there. 4. Sunroof delete, which removes a lot of high end weight. Put a carbon fiber panel in, reinstalled the headliner and covered the interior hole with high end cloth, and it looks great. 5. Sound system including head unit in trunk and six speakers and radio (prefer the sound of the engine). 6. Rear C-pillar panels. Heavyish foam material that is worth removing and then replace the panels. My challenge now is to pull the carpet, remove any sound deadening material underneath, and then replace the carpet. If anyone has done this, I would appreciate some advice as I don't want to break the interior panels in the process. I have also wondered how feasible it would be to pull the motors out of the vaders, leaving them fixed (no longer adjustable) and putting them back into the car. That might gain 10-15 lbs each. The motors seem to be of a similar size and weight as the motor that drives the sunroof mechanism. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 Delaware -----Original Message----- From: Mark Dadgar [mailto:mark@pdc-racing.net] Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:40 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 13:36:06 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior Stripping On Jan 31, 2008, at 1:29 PM, Mark Dadgar wrote: >> I was planning on using a heat gun and plastic putty knife, and using >> brake cleaner and rags to get any residue off. > > Yes. I meant to also say that I found a handheld MAP gas torch (like a Benz- O-Matic) to work better than a heat gun. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing homepage at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************