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#1. Re: [E36M3] Harness attachment points - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:25:15 -0500 From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Harness attachment points On 2/7/08, Tim Williams <willtj@bellsouth.net> wrote: > I noticed, however, that Schroth makes an attachment strap that is bendable > and intended to be used with the clip. This is similar to the mounting of > the bolt-in 4 point, I think. http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/ximg/1584/01323.jpg I don't know those brackets don't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. I would rather use an eye bolt attachment with a nice large backing plate underneath. I'm pretty sure I have a couple of those bendable brackets but I've never really like them so they sit in a bag. Want 'em? HMS sells for $20 how about 10 bucks? Cheers, Carlos. 98 M3 97 540i/6
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Harness attachment points - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:51:02 -0500 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Harness attachment points I prefer the eyebolt/backing plate set up but those bendy brackets are perfectly safe and fine as the eye bolt. They key with using those, and the eyebolt for that matter, is making the load on the strap is as linear as possible. Linear meaning along the strap itself, not at some angle such as the eyebolt being twisted so as to no line up properly. Same thing with the bendy brackets. Cheers. Jack Money On Feb 7, 2008 10:39 AM, Carlos Lopez <clopez98m3@gmail.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:25:15 -0500 > From: "Carlos Lopez" <clopez98m3@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Harness attachment points > > On 2/7/08, Tim Williams <willtj@bellsouth.net> wrote: > > I noticed, however, that Schroth makes an attachment strap that is > bendable > > and intended to be used with the clip. This is similar to the mounting > of > > the bolt-in 4 point, I think. > > http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/ximg/1584/01323.jpg > > I don't know those brackets don't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. I > would rather use an eye bolt attachment with a nice large backing > plate underneath. I'm pretty sure I have a couple of those bendable > brackets but I've never really like them so they sit in a bag. Want > 'em? HMS sells for $20 how about 10 bucks? > > Cheers, > Carlos. > 98 M3 > 97 540i/6 > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#3. Keyless install question - from Russel DeArman
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 08:18:21 -0800 (PST) From: Russel DeArman <russde_93@yahoo.com> Subject: Keyless install question Hola everyone, Long time reader, first time poster (little talk radio humor for ya). I purchased a keyless/alarm system that was removed from a '96+ M3 and attempted install last night. I did not get the horn with the set up. I was able to find the main harness plug under the dash behind the glove box (oh, watch out for the front side of the lower glove box mounting bar, it's VERY sharp. I look like I attempted suicide, wrong tool for the job). Here's my problem: with the unit plugged in I can press the 'lock' button on the remote and nothing happens. If I hold the 'lock' button down for more than two seconds the flashers activate, I assume that the unit goes into panic mode. But the doors will not lock. Is the horn/siren required to be in the system on order for the lock mechanism to work? I also was unable to find the matching plug in the vehicle harness for the single black plug that comes off the brain harness. I was mostly interested in the keyless feature and not so much the alarm function. Thanks in advance for any advice, Russ PS: any other NM members here? --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Keyless install question - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:28:37 -0600 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Keyless install question You're going to need to do the "programming dance". It's a german type jig where you turn the key on, press the fob, run out side open trunk while door open IIRC. Sounds easy, but actually requires some practice to do it accurately in the time spec'd for it. I do remember it is very specific, and any deviation and you have to start over. Somebody has to have the procedure on this list.... I might have mine in the receipt book at home. Patrick 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Russel DeArman [mailto:russde_93@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 11:20 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Keyless install question Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 08:18:21 -0800 (PST) From: Russel DeArman <russde_93@yahoo.com> Subject: Keyless install question Hola everyone, Long time reader, first time poster (little talk radio humor for ya). I purchased a keyless/alarm system that was removed from a '96+ M3 and attempted install last night. I did not get the horn with the set up. I was able to find the main harness plug under the dash behind the glove box (oh, watch out for the front side of the lower glove box mounting bar, it's VERY sharp. I look like I attempted suicide, wrong tool for the job). Here's my problem: with the unit plugged in I can press the 'lock' button on the remote and nothing happens. If I hold the 'lock' button down for more than two seconds the flashers activate, I assume that the unit goes into panic mode. But the doors will not lock. Is the horn/siren required to be in the system on order for the lock mechanism to work? I also was unable to find the matching plug in the vehicle harness for the single black plug that comes off the brain harness. I was mostly interested in the keyless feature and not so much the alarm function. Thanks in advance for any advice, Russ PS: any other NM members here? --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: Rahal Letterman Racing M3 - from steve crowl
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:29:31 -0600 From: "steve crowl" <stcrowl@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Rahal Letterman Racing M3 I saw that this morning, too, and wondered how RLR got the deal rather than PTG. The latter seems to be flogging the Panoz pretty well in recent Sebring testing (consistently 3rd fastest). Steve
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#6. Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads - from Michael Wylie
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 09:31:18 -0800 (GMT-08:00) From: Michael Wylie <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Well, I did it, cross-threaded a lug nut for the M3's rear wheel. Way to go genius... I'll buy new a new lug nut, but how do I fix the threads in the rotor? The cross-threading is only about 3 mm deep. Do I use a tap? What are the nnn x nnn dimensions of what I need? (Threads and pitch?) Embarrassed in Novato, CA. And thankful for any advice. Mike 03 525i 95 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:11:33 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Mike, Your best bet would be to use a tap. If you can go at it from the back, your chances of success are MUCH higher. It's an M12x1.50 tap, by the way. I had this issue (only the strip was complete) on the 95. I tried to cut new threads and use a helicoil, but the metal in the drive flange proved to be WAY to strong. I broke the tap and the insert didn't bind and I ended up having to replace the whole shebang. At least I got to put in a new rear bearing, too. That was a fun 8 hours of work (sarcasm). Anyway, be VERY careful as you attempt to tap the threads. Going at it from the front may *seem* like the easy way of doing it, but you also run the risk of causing further damage and the subsequent (miserable) DIY job or a pricey fix from your mechanic. Good luck -jeff ----- Original Message ---- From: Michael Wylie <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2008 9:39:32 AM Subject: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 09:31:18 -0800 (GMT-08:00) From: Michael Wylie <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Well, I did it, cross-threaded a lug nut for the M3's rear wheel. Way to go genius... I'll buy new a new lug nut, but how do I fix the threads in the rotor? The cross-threading is only about 3 mm deep. Do I use a tap? What are the nnn x nnn dimensions of what I need? (Threads and pitch?) Embarrassed in Novato, CA. And thankful for any advice. Mike 03 525i 95 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:23:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads It's not the rotor that has the bungled threads. ...it's the hub flange. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=33_0441&hg=33&fg=40 That's major work to undertake. Good luck trying to re-tap it. Chester --- Michael Wylie <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > Well, I did it, cross-threaded a lug nut for the M3's rear wheel. Way to go > genius... > > I'll buy new a new lug nut, but how do I fix the threads in the rotor? The > cross-threading is only about 3 mm deep. Do I use a tap? What are the nnn x > nnn dimensions of what I need? (Threads and pitch?)
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#9. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads - from Marco Romani
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:44:28 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads I would recommend a thread chaser before using a tap. A tap eats metal, a thread chaser will, if you're lucky, clean the munged up threads. Now the problem is the cost. A tap is $5. A good thread chaser will run you 5-10x more. And the other problem is finding a 12x1.5mm thread chaser. Most places when you ask for one will hand you a tap. I would call you're friendly local machine shops and see if someone will do it for you if you drive the car there (slowly and carefully). This isn't a problem on my CTS-V since it's 6 bolt hubs ;-) Oh - and use studs. Makes life a lot easier ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Conner [mailto:jeff.conner@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 10:20 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:11:33 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Mike, Your best bet would be to use a tap. If you can go at it from the back, your chances of success are MUCH higher. It's an M12x1.50 tap, by the way. I had this issue (only the strip was complete) on the 95. I tried to cut new threads and use a helicoil, but the metal in the drive flange proved to be WAY to strong. I broke the tap and the insert didn't bind and I ended up having to replace the whole shebang. At least I got to put in a new rear bearing, too. That was a fun 8 hours of work (sarcasm). Anyway, be VERY careful as you attempt to tap the threads. Going at it from the front may *seem* like the easy way of doing it, but you also run the risk of causing further damage and the subsequent (miserable) DIY job or a pricey fix from your mechanic. Good luck -jeff ----- Original Message ---- From: Michael Wylie <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2008 9:39:32 AM Subject: [E36M3] Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 09:31:18 -0800 (GMT-08:00) From: Michael Wylie <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Need Advice...Stripped Lug Nut / Related Rotor Threads Well, I did it, cross-threaded a lug nut for the M3's rear wheel. Way to go genius... I'll buy new a new lug nut, but how do I fix the threads in the rotor? The cross-threading is only about 3 mm deep. Do I use a tap? What are the nnn x nnn dimensions of what I need? (Threads and pitch?) Embarrassed in Novato, CA. And thankful for any advice. Mike 03 525i 95 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.21/1263 - Release Date: 2/6/2008 8:14 PM
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#10. need tire opinions: Bridgestone RE-750 vs. Kumho Ecsta MX - from Steve Sharp
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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 12:18:49 -0800 From: "Steve Sharp" <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> Subject: need tire opinions: Bridgestone RE-750 vs. Kumho Ecsta MX I need to put new shoes on my E36 M3 coupe to sell it (rears are down to the wear bars!) I have been using RE-750 Bridgestones and like them as a general street tire here in Northern California with the wet winters. I don't want to spend a ton on new tires just to sell it, so RE-050A Pole Positions or Michelin PS2's are out of my budget. I could get a set of RE-750s for about $600 or so or a set of Kumho Ecsta MXs for about $550. What do y'all think is a good choice? Thanks, Steve