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#1. Differential Oil - from kjk
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:45:10 -0800 (PST) From: kjk <quierom5@yahoo.com> Subject: Differential Oil Rich wrote: "Which specific Red Line product do you use?" I believe my mechanic, Ramon, uses 75w90 NS, which I now understand has this additive. :-) Kevin ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Differential Oil - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 23:18:12 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Differential Oil In a message dated 2/27/08 8:55:05 PM Central Standard Time, quierom5@yahoo.com writes: I believe my mechanic, Ramon, uses 75w90 NS, which I now understand has this additive. :-) Actually, it is the other way around. :-) Redline 75W90NS does NOT have the additive. Yes, Redline makes it confusing. Better check with your mechanic. I'll bet he is using the Redline 75W90 gear oil. Since everybody is saying what gear oil they use, I will too. I use Redline 75W90NS. Yes, I know it is the wrong gear oil for my limited-slip differential. However, I use it in an effort to get more hook up with my diff. My diff is so weak, has been from the day it came off the assembly line, that I sometimes wonder if there was a mistake and I got an open differential in my M3. Anyway, I use gear oil withOUT the friction modifier. It couldn't hurt my diff. I wish I had replaced the differential under warranty when my car was new. Oh well. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - bought when it was 2 months & 2,000 miles old - now at 77,000 miles **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Differential Oil - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 22:33:16 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Differential Oil On Wed, February 27, 2008 6:54 pm, kjk wrote: > I believe my mechanic, Ramon, uses 75w90 NS, which I > now understand has this additive. :-) What?!? That's not what you told me when I asked. :-) Gaaaaahhhh........... Jim Bassett - I give up :-)
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#4. For the NY area folks - gpny.com anyone? - from Stefano G
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:20:23 -0500 (EST) From: "Stefano G" <stefanoale@excite.com> Subject: For the NY area folks - gpny.com anyone? A karting facility opened a couple of weeks ago in Mt Kisco, NY (gpny.com). I went this past w/e and it was pretty fun. 2 pretty good size indoor tracks with decent karts ~40mph on the main straight (remember indoor so no really fast karts!). At my arrival there were 3 430s and 3 911T along with a bunch of AMGs etc... Pretty nice parking lot. I got to spank everyone (I'm so modest) on the track (posers!) except for a guy who was going by the name "scuderia" (haha) who was so fast (reality check for me) that I thought I was first as he was so far ahead and I could not see him! Let me know if anyone is planning to go there and maybe I'll get to put some faces to the names on the list ;-) Cheers, Stefano '98 M3 w winter setup... _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#5. E36M3 Front Wheel Bearing Failures - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 13:47:03 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: E36M3 Front Wheel Bearing Failures Hi All. I finally replaced the original front wheel bearings on my '95 M3 LWT (19k miles, of which the last 12k have been track miles). Symptom was a very noticeable "rolling knocking pounding" coming from the RF wheel after a first session at Thunderhill. To my surprise, the LF seemed fine, all torques seemed fine, and while the RF's grease had liquefied somewhat, inside both hubs the grease still seemed fine. HOWEVER, on the LF some of the plastic bearing cage (outer bearing) had broken, and on the RF one outer ball bearing had completely sheared in half (!), leaving two nearly-perfect hemispherical bearings to fall out as I removed the RF hub. The RF's outer outer race was also badly galled (and the RF hub sounded horrible when I turned it by hand prior to removing it). Just wondering if this is typical (the failure mode -- plenty of grease inside, still seems like pretty effective lubricant, but several hard parts broken). I'm not sure why the Bentley says to re-mount the wheels prior to re-torqueing the big axle nuts -- I just used a 4x torque multiplier on the "naked" hub + axle and that worked fine. I bought RedLine bearing grease in a plan to replace the grease with RedLine but I didn't have a parts washer handy to flush the old grease out prior to putting the RedLine in (the outer races of each bearing in each hub pretty much just pop off, so it's easy to flush the old grease out with solvent). So we'll see how long these hubs last, with factory grease. --Andrew -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#6. Oil Leak filling all spark plug wells! - from Kirk
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Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 16:58:36 -0800 From: "Kirk" <admranger@earthlink.net> Subject: Oil Leak filling all spark plug wells! Ok, this one just ruined my test day today at Spring Mtn Motorsports Park (wow! have they improved the facilities there!). Background: First track day for race car after dropping in a 2.8 motor and making it run via the OBD 1 electronics (pretty easy with email groups like this to help). The head is the same as the S50 head (even has the two holes for the temp sensors!). I'm running S50 cams and 21.5 lb/hr injectors, headers to a small muffler (single pipe, no cat) w/a custom chip. Nicely idles and revs. So I get on the track at 9am this morning and after one lap I'm smelling some burning, but I just figured I was bedding in the new rotors a bit too hard. Second turn is a 180 degree sweeper to the left and on my second lap I look in my mirror (it exits at a passing zone) and notice that I am putting up a pretty good smoke screen. Hmmm, maybe my tires are rubbing with the new rear suspensions bits? Nope, that's oil smoke. Come into the pits and the smoke is boiling out from under the hood. Fortunately no fire. Upon further investigation 5 out of the 6 spark plug wells (1 - 5, 6 was pretty much dry) are full of oil (thank goodness for the new coil boots so no DME killing short!). WTF? Oil was pouring out of the wells under left hand turns and hitting the nice new (hot) headers. I pull the valve cover (obd1 cover from S50) and yes, the little gaskets that go between the spark plug wells and the valve cover were in place with no apparent crimps, etc. in gasket. All of the nuts holding the valve cover on felt like they had equal torque when I loosened them up. I checked the vent line to the throttle body boot by blowing in it and air went through w/no problem. I have a new valve cover gasket kit ready to install. I also have the grommets that go into the valve cover (that the nuts go through). Figured I would clean off the valve cover contact areas too (some flaking finish on other areas of cover so maybe?). Anything else to look for? Other things that could cause this? I'm stumped yet again. I'm off to Phoenix for the Club Race March 7-9 so I really don't want to tow all the way down there only for this problem to recur. Thanks for your help. Kirk Lachman '95 M2.8 #21 JP -- "Smokey the Car"
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Oil Leak filling all spark plug wells! - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 17:23:43 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Leak filling all spark plug wells! On Saturday 01 March 2008 5:04:52 pm Kirk wrote: > I have a new valve cover gasket kit ready to install. I also have the > grommets that go into the valve cover (that the nuts go through). Figured > I would clean off the valve cover contact areas too (some flaking finish on > other areas of cover so maybe?). Anything else to look for? Other things > that could cause this? I'm stumped yet again. > I had a valve cover on my '95 that had just enough of that crazy magnesium corrosion in a few areas that it would leak without using a fair amount of sealant. I ended up sourcing a better valve cover and have not had any issues since. Replace all the rubber mounts in the cover, use new gaskets, and use a little sealant and you will probably be OK. I always use some sealant ('right stuff') in the rear, front, and around the spark plug holes. I am a fan of overkill here as it sucks to clean oil out of the spark plug holes. Dave
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#8. Re: [UUC] Oil Leak filling all spark plug wells! - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 20:48:18 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [UUC] Oil Leak filling all spark plug wells! Kirk, You need to use new gaskets. Even on my 318is, I had to smear a thin film of RTV on the gaskets to seal 100% (I also had to helicoil each and every thread for the valve cover to allow proper torque as the people who had worked on the car prior to me stripped more than half of them). Also, with my M3, one bolt wasn't tight towards the back of the valve cover, this was enough for oil to splash out at the track, hit the cats and leave a smoke trail on left handers. Tightening that one last bolt was enough to stop the leak. Regards, Rich On Sat, Mar 1, 2008 at 7:58 PM, Kirk <admranger@earthlink.net> wrote: > Ok, this one just ruined my test day today at Spring Mtn Motorsports Park > (wow! have they improved the facilities there!). > > Background: First track day for race car after dropping in a 2.8 motor > and > making it run via the OBD 1 electronics (pretty easy with email groups > like > this to help). The head is the same as the S50 head (even has the two > holes > for the temp sensors!). I'm running S50 cams and 21.5 lb/hr injectors, > headers to a small muffler (single pipe, no cat) w/a custom chip. Nicely > idles and revs. > > So I get on the track at 9am this morning and after one lap I'm smelling > some burning, but I just figured I was bedding in the new rotors a bit too > hard. Second turn is a 180 degree sweeper to the left and on my second > lap > I look in my mirror (it exits at a passing zone) and notice that I am > putting up a pretty good smoke screen. Hmmm, maybe my tires are rubbing > with the new rear suspensions bits? Nope, that's oil smoke. Come into > the > pits and the smoke is boiling out from under the hood. Fortunately no > fire. > > Upon further investigation 5 out of the 6 spark plug wells (1 - 5, 6 was > pretty much dry) are full of oil (thank goodness for the new coil boots so > no DME killing short!). WTF? Oil was pouring out of the wells under left > hand turns and hitting the nice new (hot) headers. I pull the valve > cover > (obd1 cover from S50) and yes, the little gaskets that go between the > spark > plug wells and the valve cover were in place with no apparent crimps, etc. > in gasket. All of the nuts holding the valve cover on felt like they had > equal torque when I loosened them up. > > I checked the vent line to the throttle body boot by blowing in it and air > went through w/no problem. > > I have a new valve cover gasket kit ready to install. I also have the > grommets that go into the valve cover (that the nuts go through). Figured > I > would clean off the valve cover contact areas too (some flaking finish on > other areas of cover so maybe?). Anything else to look for? Other things > that could cause this? I'm stumped yet again. > > I'm off to Phoenix for the Club Race March 7-9 so I really don't want to > tow > all the way down there only for this problem to recur. > > Thanks for your help. > > Kirk Lachman > '95 M2.8 #21 JP -- "Smokey the Car"
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#9. Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk - from Matt Bader
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Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 16:28:49 -0500 From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk There had been some discussion on this list about what to use to get rid of the gunk that's leftover after you remove the sound deadening material under the carpet (or elsewhere I suppose). I just removed my carpet and sound deadening material over the past week, and I am pretty happy with the results. Once the carpet was out (PITA), I used a wooden spatula type thing, long since stolen from the kitchen. I have used this before to get the material out from under and behind the seats, under the rear deck, and out of the trunk. It has an angled flat blade, and I just sharpened it up a bit with a rotary tool. Turns out the wood is perfect as it does not scrape the paint at all, while the angled blade is good for maneuvering into tight spaces, and reversing your angle of attack. I used a B&D heat gun set on 600 degrees which seemed like a good compromise between getting the stuff softened up reasonably quickly without fear of damaging wires, and other material. Once all was removed (another PITA), on a whim I decided to try using turpentine to clean up the surfaces. Turns out it works perfectly. It leaves no residue, removes the gunk fairly easily, and does not harm the paint as far as I can tell. It turned out so well, and with no scrape marks thanks to the wooden scraper, I see no reason to even repaint the cleaned surfaces. I might polish things up with some light wax or detailing spray just to give it a little more "refined" look. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 Delaware
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#10. Oil temp range - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 18:19:15 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Oil temp range What should the range in oil temps be for the E36 M3? Of course the climate, load, oil viscosity will impact but what should the averages fall within? Shel 1995 M3 2005 330CI **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)