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#1. Re: Differential Oil - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 21:32:28 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Differential Oil > From: kjk <quierom5@yahoo.com> > > Rich wrote: > > "Which specific Red Line product do you use?" > > I believe my mechanic, Ramon, uses 75w90 NS, which I > now understand has this additive. :-) Only if your mechanic adds it separately as Red Line 75W90 *DOES NOT *contain the limited slip additive. Regards, Rich
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#2. For the NY area folks - gpny.com anyone? - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 22:25:07 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: For the NY area folks - gpny.com anyone? Stefano, Hello.. What do they charge? Is there an unlimited night? Their website seems to neglect any information on costs.. I have gone to leigh Valley GP (Allentown, PA) http://www.lehighvalleygrandprix.com/ a few times with some friends.. Nice place.. Regards Mo -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:20:23 -0500 (EST) From: "Stefano G" <stefanoale@excite.com> Subject: For the NY area folks - gpny.com anyone? A karting facility opened a couple of weeks ago in Mt Kisco, NY (gpny.com). I went this past w/e and it was pretty fun. 2 pretty good size indoor tracks with decent karts ~40mph on the main straight (remember indoor so no really fast karts!). At my arrival there were 3 430s and 3 911T along with a bunch of AMGs etc... Pretty nice parking lot. I got to spank everyone (I'm so modest) on the track (posers!) except for a guy who was going by the name "scuderia" (haha) who was so fast (reality check for me) that I thought I was first as he was so far ahead and I could not see him! Let me know if anyone is planning to go there and maybe I'll get to put some faces to the names on the list ;-) Cheers, Stefano '98 M3 w winter setup...
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#3. E36M3 Front Wheel Bearing Failures - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 22:30:52 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: E36M3 Front Wheel Bearing Failures Andrew, Hello.. I had the drivers side wheel bearing fail on the race car this past season (95 E36 M3). Yes, it was making a horrible sound all weekend at the Shenendoah Circuit at summit. When I got home I saw pretty much the same thing that you described. There was still grease in the bearing, but several of the ball bearings were let's say less than round. Just wear and tear on the moving parts (and heat!) I bought 2 just in case, but the passenger side still seems tight. Just make sure that you keep an extra bearing in your tool kit.. The other side will probably start making the sounds of death soon.. Best Mo -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 13:47:03 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: E36M3 Front Wheel Bearing Failures Hi All. I finally replaced the original front wheel bearings on my '95 M3 LWT (19k miles, of which the last 12k have been track miles). Symptom was a very noticeable "rolling knocking pounding" coming from the RF wheel after a first session at Thunderhill. To my surprise, the LF seemed fine, all torques seemed fine, and while the RF's grease had liquefied somewhat, inside both hubs the grease still seemed fine. HOWEVER, on the LF some of the plastic bearing cage (outer bearing) had broken, and on the RF one outer ball bearing had completely sheared in half (!), leaving two nearly-perfect hemispherical bearings to fall out as I removed the RF hub. The RF's outer outer race was also badly galled (and the RF hub sounded horrible when I turned it by hand prior to removing it). Just wondering if this is typical (the failure mode -- plenty of grease inside, still seems like pretty effective lubricant, but several hard parts broken). I'm not sure why the Bentley says to re-mount the wheels prior to re-torqueing the big axle nuts -- I just used a 4x torque multiplier on the "naked" hub + axle and that worked fine. I bought RedLine bearing grease in a plan to replace the grease with RedLine but I didn't have a parts washer handy to flush the old grease out prior to putting the RedLine in (the outer races of each bearing in each hub pretty much just pop off, so it's easy to flush the old grease out with solvent). So we'll see how long these hubs last, with factory grease. --Andrew -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#4. Re: Differential Oil - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 22:40:09 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Differential Oil > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > > Since everybody is saying what gear oil they use, I will too. I use > Redline > 75W90NS. Yes, I know it is the wrong gear oil for my limited-slip > differential. However, I use it in an effort to get more hook up with my > diff. My > diff is so weak, has been from the day it came off the assembly line, > that I > sometimes wonder if there was a mistake and I got an open differential in > my > M3. Anyway, I use gear oil withOUT the friction modifier. It couldn't > hurt my > diff. I wish I had replaced the differential under warranty when my car > was > new. Oh well. I noted this approach in one of my prior posts: ( http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/Archive_2008_02_digest_5558-5586/digest5586.htm#2 ) If you didn't have a limited slip, your approach wouldn't work as open differentials don't have clutch packs and without the clutch packs, you can't manipulate the lock-up simply by altering the fluid. Eventually, your clutch packs will be completely used up and a rebuild could restore your diff. It sounds like you might be interested in increased lock-up and/or steeper ramps. Regards, Rich
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#5. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk - from Marco Romani
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Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 21:38:44 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <marco@corsa-na.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk Citrus based cleaner actually works better than turpentine. WD-40 works well also. But the citrus stuff smells nice ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: Matt Bader [mailto:mbader@exammaster.com] Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 1:40 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 16:28:49 -0500 From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk There had been some discussion on this list about what to use to get rid of the gunk that's leftover after you remove the sound deadening material under the carpet (or elsewhere I suppose). I just removed my carpet and sound deadening material over the past week, and I am pretty happy with the results. Once the carpet was out (PITA), I used a wooden spatula type thing, long since stolen from the kitchen. I have used this before to get the material out from under and behind the seats, under the rear deck, and out of the trunk. It has an angled flat blade, and I just sharpened it up a bit with a rotary tool. Turns out the wood is perfect as it does not scrape the paint at all, while the angled blade is good for maneuvering into tight spaces, and reversing your angle of attack. I used a B&D heat gun set on 600 degrees which seemed like a good compromise between getting the stuff softened up reasonably quickly without fear of damaging wires, and other material. Once all was removed (another PITA), on a whim I decided to try using turpentine to clean up the surfaces. Turns out it works perfectly. It leaves no residue, removes the gunk fairly easily, and does not harm the paint as far as I can tell. It turned out so well, and with no scrape marks thanks to the wooden scraper, I see no reason to even repaint the cleaned surfaces. I might polish things up with some light wax or detailing spray just to give it a little more "refined" look. Matt Bader 98 M3/4 Delaware ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008 5:41 PM
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#6. Re: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk - from Matt Bader
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Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 06:08:13 -0500 From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: Re: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk Yeah, I was looking at my WD-40 and wondering about whether that might work, then had an A.D.D. moment and shifted attention to the turpentine. Marco Romani wrote: > Citrus based cleaner actually works better than turpentine. WD-40 works > well also. But the citrus stuff smells nice ;-) > > Marco > > -----Original Message----- > From: Matt Bader [mailto:mbader@exammaster.com] > Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 1:40 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk > > Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 16:28:49 -0500 > From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> > Subject: Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk > > There had been some discussion on this list about what to use to get rid > of the gunk that's leftover after you remove the sound deadening > material under the carpet (or elsewhere I suppose). I just removed my > carpet and sound deadening material over the past week, and I am pretty > happy with the results. Once the carpet was out (PITA), I used a wooden > spatula type thing, long since stolen from the kitchen. I have used > this before to get the material out from under and behind the seats, > under the rear deck, and out of the trunk. It has an angled flat blade, > and I just sharpened it up a bit with a rotary tool. Turns out the wood > is perfect as it does not scrape the paint at all, while the angled > blade is good for maneuvering into tight spaces, and reversing your > angle of attack. I used a B&D heat gun set on 600 degrees which seemed > like a good compromise between getting the stuff softened up reasonably > quickly without fear of damaging wires, and other material. Once all > was removed (another PITA), on a whim I decided to try using turpentine > to clean up the surfaces. Turns out it works perfectly. It leaves no > residue, removes the gunk fairly easily, and does not harm the paint as > far as I can tell. It turned out so well, and with no scrape marks > thanks to the wooden scraper, I see no reason to even repaint the > cleaned surfaces. I might polish things up with some light wax or > detailing spray just to give it a little more "refined" look. > > Matt Bader > 98 M3/4 > Delaware > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008 > 5:41 PM > > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Oil temp range - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 10:32:28 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil temp range On Sun, March 2, 2008 3:24 pm, Shelhart2@aol.com wrote: > What should the range in oil temps be for the E36 M3? Of course the > climate, load, oil viscosity will impact but what should the averages > fall within? More than 120F and less than 250F, vaguely recalling from the race car's usual range. (The M3 should be similar.) Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk - from Jayson R Guzman
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Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 21:48:16 -1000 From: Jayson R Guzman <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk in a pinch, i've used reducer for automotive paint to remove the sound deadening residue...worked out great! ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> > Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 06:08:13 -0500 > From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> > Subject: Re: [e36m3] [E36M3] Interior Stripping - Removing the gunk > > Yeah, I was looking at my WD-40 and wondering about whether that > might > work, then had an A.D.D. moment and shifted attention to the > turpentine.
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#9. Rites o' Spring - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 11:56:13 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Rites o' Spring For all you Midwesterners (or long distance drivers!) registration is open for: THE HOOSIER CHAPTER BMW CAR CLUB'S 17TH ANNUAL RITES O' SPRING DRIVER SCHOOL PUTNAM PARK ROAD COURSE (NEAR INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA) 12-13 APRIL 2008 This year we're making it even easier to get information about and sign up for the school by using the well known MotorSportReg.com online registration system. You can even pay online with your credit card during registration. For more information or to sign up, surf on over to: <http://tinyurl.com/2fedp6> Neil Chief Animal Trainer
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#10. clunk front left -- I think - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 17:31:43 -0500 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: clunk front left -- I think Guys, Okay, interesting that the temps are going up here in eastern PA and now I've noticed a clunk coming from what I believe to be?the front left corner.? Really noticeable noise in a parking lot, at slow speeds over small bumps.? Also think I feel it through the steering wheel too.? Just had TCK coilovers put on last fall.? I think it might be the top nut, it's easy to turn -- but?I think?you need to hold the inner 11mm adjuster nut still while you tighten the outer nut.? Right???? I've tried to do just that (I have the home made socket and the long neck 11mm to get down the center hole, but I can't get a good grip on the inner nut because I have the TCK camber plates to with the extra tall grey nut which is making it way to difficult.? Any suggestions from the collective body of good minds here. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering