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#1. RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2008 18:43:50 -0500 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Hey Russel, Glad to hear you had fun! If you want to fine tune, you'll need a pyrometer, yes. I think you're in the ballpark, tho. The harder you push the car, the more it will understeer at this point. If you want, get the crash bolts and get as much front camber as they will allow. Then just drive the car for a while. Like you said, you're improving with each run. The other alignment specs look OK. You might want a tiny bit of toe-out in the front. Paul Andrews 98 M3/4 # 42 STU -----Original Message----- From: Russel DeArman [mailto:russde_93@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 5:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 14:19:03 -0800 (PST) From: Russel DeArman <russde_93@yahoo.com> Subject: Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Ok, so the event was on Saturday. Background: Stock '98 M3 sedan, staggered DS2's, 225-45 Hankook RS-2's in front and 245-40 Dunlop FM-901's in the rear. Front H&R bar set to full stiff. I ran 42 in the front and 36 in the rear. Keep in mind I'm a novice: the car felt great. White polish in the front showed very little roll-over on the Hankooks and grip was terrific. Next question: how do I fine-tune the pressures? do I need to use a pyrometer? since the only thing I can adjust is the pressure, is this worth the effort? My gut reaction is to adjust and drive again, but since my times steadily decrease with each run I don't think I'd actually prove anything. Alignment: When I had the front tires installed I had an alignment at the same time. Front: Camber was pretty poor: -0.5 and -0.3 Caster is 7.4 and 7.2 Toe is -0.02 on each side for a -0.04 total (all measurements are in degrees) <Should I think about crash bolts? Since I'm running BS that's my only option to get any more camber, right?> Rear: Camber is -0.9 and -1.0 Toe is 0.00 and -0.02, total is 0.02 Any thoughts on these specs? Any other things to do to improve the car as afar as adjustment? I know the biggest decrease in times will come from ME, not the car, but I can't help but try other stuff. Thanks, Russ
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up - from Russel DeArman
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 07:22:01 -0800 (PST) From: Russel DeArman <russde_93@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up <<The crash bolts are not legal in BS if we are talking SCCA.>> Yeah, I just read that on BF.com....disappointing. You'd think with BMW's involvement in racing of all types they would put out a TSB for these. Oh well, one season in BS and then off to STU....I won't be competitive in either but the car will be more fun in STU, at least after I learn to drive Chris Teague <cteague@cox.net> wrote: Russel, With a stock M3, the only thing a pyrometer will tell you is you don't have anywhere near enough front camber. Set the front pressure high enough that the tires aren't rolling over (chalking the sidewalls may help you see this), and lower the back from that pressure enough so the car is neutral.. The crash bolts are not legal in BS if we are talking SCCA. Then work on driving. ;-) Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russel DeArman" To: "E36M3" Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 2:24 PM Subject: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up > Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 14:19:03 -0800 (PST) > From: Russel DeArman > Subject: Auto-x tire pressure follow-up > > Ok, so the event was on Saturday. > Background: Stock '98 M3 sedan, staggered DS2's, 225-45 Hankook RS-2's in > front and 245-40 Dunlop FM-901's in the rear. Front H&R bar set to full > stiff. > I ran 42 in the front and 36 in the rear. Keep in mind I'm a novice: the > car felt great. White polish in the front showed very little roll-over on > the Hankooks and grip was terrific. > Next question: how do I fine-tune the pressures? do I need to use a > pyrometer? since the only thing I can adjust is the pressure, is this > worth the effort? My gut reaction is to adjust and drive again, but since > my times steadily decrease with each run I don't think I'd actually prove > anything. > Alignment: When I had the front tires installed I had an alignment at the > same time. > Front: > Camber was pretty poor: -0.5 and -0.3 > Caster is 7.4 and 7.2 > Toe is -0.02 on each side for a -0.04 total (all measurements are in > degrees) > > option to get any more camber, right?> > > Rear: > Camber is -0.9 and -1.0 > Toe is 0.00 and -0.02, total is 0.02 > > Any thoughts on these specs? Any other things to do to improve the car as > afar as adjustment? I know the biggest decrease in times will come from > ME, not the car, but I can't help but try other stuff. > > Thanks, > Russ > > > --------------------------------- > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it > now. > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 09:43:58 -0600 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up I've been long removed from autox-ing with SCCA, but what about flipping the strut hats for more camber, or back-dating to ones from the 95? -----Original Message----- From: Russel DeArman [mailto:russde_93@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:35 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 07:22:01 -0800 (PST) From: Russel DeArman <russde_93@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up <<The crash bolts are not legal in BS if we are talking SCCA.>> Yeah, I just read that on BF.com....disappointing. You'd think with BMW's involvement in racing of all types they would put out a TSB for these. Oh well, one season in BS and then off to STU....I won't be competitive in either but the car will be more fun in STU, at least after I learn to drive Chris Teague <cteague@cox.net> wrote: Russel, With a stock M3, the only thing a pyrometer will tell you is you don't have anywhere near enough front camber. Set the front pressure high enough that the tires aren't rolling over (chalking the sidewalls may help you see this), and lower the back from that pressure enough so the car is neutral.. The crash bolts are not legal in BS if we are talking SCCA. Then work on driving. ;-) Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russel DeArman" To: "E36M3" Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 2:24 PM Subject: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up > Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 14:19:03 -0800 (PST) > From: Russel DeArman > Subject: Auto-x tire pressure follow-up > > Ok, so the event was on Saturday. > Background: Stock '98 M3 sedan, staggered DS2's, 225-45 Hankook RS-2's in > front and 245-40 Dunlop FM-901's in the rear. Front H&R bar set to full > stiff. > I ran 42 in the front and 36 in the rear. Keep in mind I'm a novice: the > car felt great. White polish in the front showed very little roll-over on > the Hankooks and grip was terrific. > Next question: how do I fine-tune the pressures? do I need to use a > pyrometer? since the only thing I can adjust is the pressure, is this > worth the effort? My gut reaction is to adjust and drive again, but since > my times steadily decrease with each run I don't think I'd actually prove > anything. > Alignment: When I had the front tires installed I had an alignment at the > same time. > Front: > Camber was pretty poor: -0.5 and -0.3 > Caster is 7.4 and 7.2 > Toe is -0.02 on each side for a -0.04 total (all measurements are in > degrees) > > option to get any more camber, right?> > > Rear: > Camber is -0.9 and -1.0 > Toe is 0.00 and -0.02, total is 0.02 > > Any thoughts on these specs? Any other things to do to improve the car as > afar as adjustment? I know the biggest decrease in times will come from > ME, not the car, but I can't help but try other stuff. > > Thanks, > Russ > > > --------------------------------- > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it > now. > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 10:55:49 -0500 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Whoops, sorry. -Paul -----Original Message----- From: Russel DeArman [mailto:russde_93@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:35 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 07:22:01 -0800 (PST) From: Russel DeArman <russde_93@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up <<The crash bolts are not legal in BS if we are talking SCCA.>>
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 11:14:05 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Both those methods are not legal in BS (Stock Class), but they are legal in STU. Chris 97 M3/4 ---- "Goss wrote: > Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 09:43:58 -0600 > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up > > I've been long removed from autox-ing with SCCA, but what about flipping > the strut hats for more camber, or back-dating to ones from the 95? >
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#6. sulfur-ish smell - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 11:39:59 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: sulfur-ish smell I'm not really sure if this is something with the engine or my brakes, but after a short hard run (e.g. going WOT up a 1/3 mile curvy stretch to my work driveway), after I pull into the parking lot and park, I notice a fairly pungent odor, like sulfur emanating from my car. I guess it could be my brakes (Hawk Performance Ceramic), but I usually try not to dump on them hard right before the car will be motionless for several hours without drive time to cool down, which is why I'm thinking it's my engine making the odor. I am using Elf Excellium 5W-40 oil. Also, I'm thinking of changing out my tie rods fairly soon. What is the change interval on these? Do you guys generally change just the tie rod end or the whole assembly up to the rack end? The car is not tracked or autox-d, street only. The boots on them aren't torn, but I don't know the last time they have been changed. Thanks, Brian build 8/95
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#7. clunk front left -- I think - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 14:47:38 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: clunk front left -- I think Bob, Hello.. While I have not tried the Vorshlag units (have heard good things about them). I have tried several others.. (Turner, Ground controls-multiple bearing hats, etc). All of them pretty much clunk after driving them on bumpy public roads. One of the added benefits of being able to change camber on the fly! :) The stock hats are the only way to 100% eliminate any kind of clunking.. Best Mo -----Original Message----- From: mdriver13@aol.com [mailto:mdriver13@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 5:35 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] clunk front left -- I think Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 17:31:43 -0500 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: clunk front left -- I think Guys, Okay, interesting that the temps are going up here in eastern PA and now I've noticed a clunk coming from what I believe to be?the front left corner.? Really noticeable noise in a parking lot, at slow speeds over small bumps.? Also think I feel it through the steering wheel too.? Just had TCK coilovers put on last fall.? I think it might be the top nut, it's easy to turn -- but?I think?you need to hold the inner 11mm adjuster nut still while you tighten the outer nut.? Right???? I've tried to do just that (I have the home made socket and the long neck 11mm to get down the center hole, but I can't get a good grip on the inner nut because I have the TCK camber plates to with the extra tall grey nut which is making it way to difficult.? Any suggestions from the collective body of good minds here. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005/2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by WCC & Rogue Engineering
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#8. Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:22:21 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell On Thursday 06 March 2008 11:44:54 am Brian Ruiz wrote: > I'm not really sure if this is something with the engine or my brakes, but > after a short hard run (e.g. going WOT up a 1/3 mile curvy stretch to my > work driveway), after I pull into the parking lot and park, I notice a > fairly pungent odor, like sulfur emanating from my car. Its your cat. > Also, I'm thinking of changing out my tie rods fairly soon. Â What is the > change interval on these? Â Do you guys generally change just the tie rod > end or the whole assembly up to the rack end? Change the entire assembly. Silly to just change the outer when the inner wears too. You can get the proper metal bands to secure boots really cheap and the tool to crimp them can be had for about $8 at a Kragen if you want to avoid the zip tie method. Dave
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#9. RE: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 14:38:05 -0600 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell I replaced my inner and outer tie rods left and right at 94K, but the previous owner could've done it before I. I replaced the replacement meyle tie rods again at 99K with new lemforder, at twice the price. Summary you get what you pay for, get lemforder or oem, and nothing else. Hose clamps work just fine for re-attaching the boots, and can be removed easily later if it becomes necessary for other work in the surrounding area. 22mm craftsman, anyone anyone, is that the size required? Patrick 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Dave Thomas [mailto:dave@sasdatalink.com] Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 3:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:22:21 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell On Thursday 06 March 2008 11:44:54 am Brian Ruiz wrote: > I'm not really sure if this is something with the engine or my brakes, but > after a short hard run (e.g. going WOT up a 1/3 mile curvy stretch to my > work driveway), after I pull into the parking lot and park, I notice a > fairly pungent odor, like sulfur emanating from my car. Its your cat. > Also, I'm thinking of changing out my tie rods fairly soon. What is the > change interval on these? Do you guys generally change just the tie rod > end or the whole assembly up to the rack end? Change the entire assembly. Silly to just change the outer when the inner wears too. You can get the proper metal bands to secure boots really cheap and the tool to crimp them can be had for about $8 at a Kragen if you want to avoid the zip tie method. Dave ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:58:16 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell On Thursday 06 March 2008 12:44:54 pm Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > Hose clamps work just fine for re-attaching the boots, and can be removed > easily later if it becomes necessary for other work in the surrounding > area. Pffffttttt....maybe on a Honda ;-) I just buy a few of the OE clamps and keep some extras. They go on and off super quick and look the business. Dave