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#1. Can replacing suspension change brake feel? - from Som Naderi
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 14:28:04 -0700 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Can replacing suspension change brake feel? Hello Group! A friend of mine just bought new Bilsteins for his 97 sedan. His right strut was damaged from hitting a tire on the freeway a few months ago so he couldn't drive the car. Normally he'd have taken the motorcycle until he got around to fixing the car, but he broke his clavicle. So I offered to do the shock/strut swap for him so he could start getting to work (without needing to borrow my truck). When he picked up the car and drove it to work this morning, he said the brakes felt noticeably softer. He hadn't driven it in 3 weeks, so I thought maybe he forgot how they felt, but he assures me the brake pedal didn't travel nearly as far before. When I swapped the struts, the hub on one side did fall in my lap at one point unrestrained (damn rotor spun and slipped out of my hand). I initially thought it had reached the end of the travel in the control arm bushing, which didn't concern me because he's already bought new control arms/bushings/tie rods/rtabs that *he's* going to swap out when his arm gets better. Now I'm wondering if it was the brake line (stock rubber hose) that kept it in place. Which would have given a minor (but maybe not insignificant) tug on the brake line. Considering this information, is that the only possible reason why the brakes might have gotten softer? Is there some "normal occurrence" that I'm missing? Is it possible to have let air into the brake lines without actually making a hole big enough for brake fluid to escape (since there's been no leaking or anything)? Maybe the rubber hose stretched a little and the *slight* increase in volume caused a significantly different brake response? Any and all help would be appreciated. - Som
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#2. [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up - from M540
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:28:40 -0500 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Russ, I'm no autocross expert so you might take this with a grain of salt, but I cannot imagine any improvement that will help you more than when you get a new set of tires. I've autocrossed cars with different front and rears and even same model but different age (3+ years) front and rears and both were unmitigated disasters. I say keep doing what you're doing but you are in for a real treat when you burn through the set of tires you have now and put four of the same thing on--regardless of what tire you end up going with. Kevin From: Russel DeArman [mailto:russde_93@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 5:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 14:19:03 -0800 (PST) From: Russel DeArman <russde_93@yahoo.com> Subject: Auto-x tire pressure follow-up Ok, so the event was on Saturday. Background: Stock '98 M3 sedan, staggered DS2's, 225-45 Hankook RS-2's in front and 245-40 Dunlop FM-901's in the rear. Front H&R bar set to full stiff. I ran 42 in the front and 36 in the rear. Keep in mind I'm a novice: the car felt great. White polish in the front showed very little roll-over on the Hankooks and grip was terrific. Next question: how do I fine-tune the pressures? do I need to use a pyrometer? since the only thing I can adjust is the pressure, is this worth the effort? My gut reaction is to adjust and drive again, but since my times steadily decrease with each run I don't think I'd actually prove anything. Alignment: When I had the front tires installed I had an alignment at the same time. Front: Camber was pretty poor: -0.5 and -0.3 Caster is 7.4 and 7.2 Toe is -0.02 on each side for a -0.04 total (all measurements are in degrees) <Should I think about crash bolts? Since I'm running BS that's my only option to get any more camber, right?> Rear: Camber is -0.9 and -1.0 Toe is 0.00 and -0.02, total is 0.02 Any thoughts on these specs? Any other things to do to improve the car as afar as adjustment? I know the biggest decrease in times will come from ME, not the car, but I can't help but try other stuff. Thanks, Russ
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#3. Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:57:01 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 12:24 PM, Dave Thomas spoketh: > > Its your cat. > My cat?! How the heck did she get in my car?! ^_^ Just kidding. Does the smell mean mine is going bad or just that it's doing its job (in the sense of short run, not everything gets well burned, the cat is catalyzing reactions...?) Brian
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#4. Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell - from Matt Bader
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Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 10:26:26 -0500 From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell <!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <meta content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type"> </head> <body bgcolor="#ffffff" text="#000000"> Shouldn't the back O2 sensors pick up an underperforming CAT and throw the CEL?<br> <br> Also, if the secondary air system is not working correctly, that might be another issue since it is designed to work principally at start up, when cold CATS need assistance.<br> <br> Matt Bader<br> 98 M3/4<br> Delaware<br> <br> Brian Ruiz wrote: <blockquote cite="mid:0803062204549S.03976@SVList.com" type="cite"> <pre wrap="">Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:57:01 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:eurowerke@gmail.com"><eurowerke@gmail.com></a> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 12:24 PM, Dave Thomas spoketh: </pre> <blockquote type="cite"> <pre wrap="">Its your cat. </pre> </blockquote> <pre wrap=""><!----> My cat?! How the heck did she get in my car?! ^_^ Just kidding. Does the smell mean mine is going bad or just that it's doing its job (in the sense of short run, not everything gets well burned, the cat is catalyzing reactions...?) Brian ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.bimmerworld.com">http://www.bimmerworld.com</a> Turner Motorsport <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.turnermotorsport.com">http://www.turnermotorsport.com</a> Eurosport High Performance <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com">http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com</a> Rogue Engineering <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.rogueengineering.com">http://www.rogueengineering.com</a> Treehouse Racing <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.treehouseracing.com">http://www.treehouseracing.com</a> Elephant Motorsports Inc. <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.elephantmotorsports.com">http://www.elephantmotorsports.com</a> DIGEST INFORMATION: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm">http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm</a> ************************************************* </pre> </blockquote> </body> </html>
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#5. Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell - from Mark D
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Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 10:55:54 -0500 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell Nice, After I bought the cheap Karlyn outer ends from autohaus now I have to return them and eat the 15% restocking fee. Oh well. Someone on the 5 series forums recommended getcoolparts.com and indeed they have all of the brands enumerated at okay prices. I figured I was buying a decent part with Karlyn but apparently not. Thanks, Mark Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 14:38:05 -0600 > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell > > I replaced my inner and outer tie rods left and right at 94K, but the previous owner could've done it before I. I replaced the replacement meyle tie rods again at 99K with new lemforder, at twice the price. > > Summary you get what you pay for, get lemforder or oem, and nothing else. > > Hose clamps work just fine for re-attaching the boots, and can be removed easily later if it becomes necessary for other work in the surrounding area. > > 22mm craftsman, anyone anyone, is that the size required? > > Patrick > 97 M3/4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave Thomas [mailto:dave@sasdatalink.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 3:25 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell > > Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:22:21 -0800 > From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell > > On Thursday 06 March 2008 11:44:54 am Brian Ruiz wrote: > >> I'm not really sure if this is something with the engine or my brakes, but >> after a short hard run (e.g. going WOT up a 1/3 mile curvy stretch to my >> work driveway), after I pull into the parking lot and park, I notice a >> fairly pungent odor, like sulfur emanating from my car. >> > > Its your cat. > > >> Also, I'm thinking of changing out my tie rods fairly soon. What is the >> change interval on these? Do you guys generally change just the tie rod >> end or the whole assembly up to the rack end? >> > > Change the entire assembly. Silly to just change the outer when the inner > wears too. You can get the proper metal bands to secure boots really cheap > and the tool to crimp them can be had for about $8 at a Kragen if you want to > avoid the zip tie method. > > Dave > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#6. Re: Tie Rod Ends - from Steve Klein
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:33:34 -0600 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Re: Tie Rod Ends It's eerie how closely my life with my M3 parallels this list. Someone here mentions it, and I start exhibiting symptoms... I jacked the car up last night to check for play since the car felt loose and wandering up front, and sure enough, worn driver's side tie rod inner ball joint. The only component I haven't replaced up there. I DID specify Lemförder from BMA when I ordered, and it was $82 and change (plus overnight :( ) for the complete assembly. And the wrench is a thin 32mm, best sourced from a local cycling shop. Steve On Mar 7, 2008, at 10:04 AM, Mark D wrote: > Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 10:55:54 -0500 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell > > Nice, > > After I bought the cheap Karlyn outer ends from autohaus now I have > to return them and eat the 15% restocking fee. Oh well. Someone on > the 5 series forums recommended getcoolparts.com and indeed they > have all of the brands enumerated at okay prices. > > I figured I was buying a decent part with Karlyn but apparently not. > > Thanks, > Mark >>
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#7. Re: Tie Rod Ends - from Steve Klein
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 12:01:56 -0600 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Re: Tie Rod Ends No, the boot was just fine. The car has just been 'floaty' on the highway and a little sloppy on slow tight turns. It's the original ball joint on a '95 with 187k/mi. A job well done, I'd say. On Mar 7, 2008, at 11:18 AM, Brian Ruiz wrote: > Was the boot torn on your tie rod or had it just been feeling loose > and wandering? > > Brian
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Tie Rod Ends - from Mark D
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Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 14:09:29 -0500 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Tie Rod Ends Thin 32? Like the radiator fan wrench? Not familiar with the assembly. I also have a "standard size" very large 32mm craftsman combination wrench. Thanks, Mark Steve Klein wrote: > Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:33:34 -0600 > From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> > Subject: Re: Tie Rod Ends > > It's eerie how closely my life with my M3 parallels this list. Someone > here mentions it, and I start exhibiting symptoms... > > I jacked the car up last night to check for play since the car felt > loose and wandering up front, and sure enough, worn driver's side tie > rod inner ball joint. The only component I haven't replaced up there. > > I DID specify Lemförder from BMA when I ordered, and it was $82 and > change (plus overnight :( ) for the complete assembly. > > And the wrench is a thin 32mm, best sourced from a local cycling shop. > Steve > > > > On Mar 7, 2008, at 10:04 AM, Mark D wrote: > >> Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 10:55:54 -0500 >> From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sulfur-ish smell >> >> Nice, >> >> After I bought the cheap Karlyn outer ends from autohaus now I have >> to return them and eat the 15% restocking fee. Oh well. Someone on >> the 5 series forums recommended getcoolparts.com and indeed they have >> all of the brands enumerated at okay prices. >> >> I figured I was buying a decent part with Karlyn but apparently not. >> >> Thanks, >> Mark >>> > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#9. Re: Tie Rod Ends - from Steve Klein
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 13:19:01 -0600 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Re: Tie Rod Ends Yes, thin as in the thickness of the wrench end itself. It's a narrow slot the open end has to fit between. Similar to the fan clutch, but thinner by half. Any bike shop should have them and they're a little over 1/8" thick. Otherwise, you'd have to belt-grind your good wrench way down, which I doubt you want to do! Steve On Mar 7, 2008, at 1:09 PM, Mark D wrote: > Thin 32? Like the radiator fan wrench? Not familiar with the > assembly. > > I also have a "standard size" very large 32mm craftsman combination > wrench. > > Thanks, > Mark
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#10. sulfur-ish smell - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 19:02:21 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: sulfur-ish smell Brian, How many miles do you have on the car? Sulfer-ish/Rotten eggs smell could mean your cats are bad, or blocked up. How new are your pads? Have they been bedded in? The tie rod assembly is an easy and cheap change. Do it, and then get the car aligned. Regards Mo -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 11:39:59 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: sulfur-ish smell I'm not really sure if this is something with the engine or my brakes, but after a short hard run (e.g. going WOT up a 1/3 mile curvy stretch to my work driveway), after I pull into the parking lot and park, I notice a fairly pungent odor, like sulfur emanating from my car. I guess it could be my brakes (Hawk Performance Ceramic), but I usually try not to dump on them hard right before the car will be motionless for several hours without drive time to cool down, which is why I'm thinking it's my engine making the odor. I am using Elf Excellium 5W-40 oil. Also, I'm thinking of changing out my tie rods fairly soon. What is the change interval on these? Do you guys generally change just the tie rod end or the whole assembly up to the rack end? The car is not tracked or autox-d, street only. The boots on them aren't torn, but I don't know the last time they have been changed. Thanks, Brian build 8/95