E36M3 #5592

Monday, March 10, 2008 11:05:59

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Best source for BBS - from Shelhart2@aol.com
#2. Re: [E36M3] Best source for BBS - from Richard Harden
#3. Re: [E36M3] Best source for BBS - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#4. Suspension refresh question - from Matthew Finlay
#5. Re: [E36M3] Suspension refresh question - from Shelhart2@aol.com
#6. RE: Tie Rod Ends - from Burgess, Kim L
#7. "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Bill and Jan Klemme
#8. Re: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Mark D
#9. RE: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Vikas.Sinha@zf.com
#10. Re: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Mark D

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#1. Best source for BBS - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 20:54:04 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Best source for BBS I've been trying to locate a set of BBS 18" RGR's, CH's or RS-GT's for the 95 M3. I bought a set of used CH Motorsport wheels and they made their way onto my 2005 CI (same bolt pattern). Since I can't find used, where is the most cost effective place to get them new? I think 4 years back I bought a set from James Sofronos... Shel 1995 M3 2005 330CI **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Best source for BBS - from Richard Harden
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 21:24:05 -0500 From: "Richard Harden" <roguem3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best source for BBS Speedware is running specials this month on: RS-GT, CH, LM, and LM-R wheels. Here is the thread from BimmerForums: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=943228 -Richard On 3/7/08, Shelhart2@aol.com <Shelhart2@aol.com> wrote: > > Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 20:54:04 EST > From: Shelhart2@aol.com > Subject: Best source for BBS > > I've been trying to locate a set of BBS 18" RGR's, CH's or RS-GT's for the > 95 M3. I bought a set of used CH Motorsport wheels and they made their > way > onto my 2005 CI (same bolt pattern). Since I can't find used, where is > the > most cost effective place to get them new? I think 4 years back I bought > a set > from James Sofronos... > > Shel > 1995 M3 > 2005 330CI > > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & > Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Best source for BBS - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 21:37:13 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best source for BBS Hi Shel, I'd check TireRack or James at Bimmerworld. Good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2005 / 2006 Philly Region BSP Champion Sponsored by Wheel Collision Center & Rogue Engineering **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

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#4. Suspension refresh question - from Matthew Finlay
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 23:33:48 -0600 From: "Matthew Finlay" <matthew.finlay@gmail.com> Subject: Suspension refresh question Hello everyone, I finally purchased everything for a refresh of my front end, but I'm having second thoughts now based on what I hear right now on the board. I've purchased the GC track/school kit from bimmerworld, along with LCABS (and RTABS), and I sourced some new front control arms from pelican parts, along with all the new undertray bits and a new set of fender liners because mine are turning into crap, though judicious use of zip ties has kept them in place until now. But now it seems like this might be a great opportunity to ALSO replace the tie rods, especially since I have to get an alignment anyway once I get all this done. If I do them now, therefore avoiding paying for a second alignment, then it essentially pays for the tie rods. I've got 70k on the car now...whaddaya think? Worth replaceing those buggers, too? This has gotten to be more expensive than I wanted it to be. :-(

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Suspension refresh question - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 06:57:15 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension refresh question It sounds like you answered your own question with good logic. Why not keep going and get the aluminum control arms while you're at it :) Shel **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

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#6. RE: Tie Rod Ends - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 13:19:07 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Tie Rod Ends I think you could even use a Crescent wrench that opened to 32mm. I've done three sets now and broke one old style chrome plated Park 32mm headset wrench. Park no longer chrome plates their tools as I recall. KLB -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:33:34 -0600 From: Steve Klein <s.klein@steveklein.cc> Subject: Re: Tie Rod Ends It's eerie how closely my life with my M3 parallels this list. Someone here mentions it, and I start exhibiting symptoms... I jacked the car up last night to check for play since the car felt loose and wandering up front, and sure enough, worn driver's side tie rod inner ball joint. The only component I haven't replaced up there. I DID specify Lemförder from BMA when I ordered, and it was $82 and change (plus overnight :( ) for the complete assembly. And the wrench is a thin 32mm, best sourced from a local cycling shop. Steve

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#7. "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Bill and Jan Klemme
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Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 23:19:17 -0400 From: Bill and Jan Klemme <wklemme@gmail.com> Subject: "Brake light circuit" warning? I have a feeling there are more people out there who are getting this message in the display because I know another guy who has the same thing....I have been getting this warning ever since we bought our '99 5 years ago. It appears to be random, and may stick on the display after I shut off the car and get back in later... or not. It eventually goes away,and eventually comes back...once or twice a year maybe. I've removed the LED lights and examined them...they all work, and the other brake lights have always worked. Yes I can continue to ignore it, but ding dang it, does anyone know how to fix it? Regards, Bill K

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#8. Re: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Mark D
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Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:30:30 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? Bill and Jan Klemme wrote: > Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 23:19:17 -0400 > From: Bill and Jan Klemme <wklemme@gmail.com> > Subject: "Brake light circuit" warning? > > I have a feeling there are more people out there who are getting this > message in the display because I know another guy who has the same > thing....I have been getting this warning ever since we bought our '99 > 5 years ago. It appears to be random, and may stick on the display > after I shut off the car and get back in later... or not. It > eventually goes away,and eventually comes back...once or twice a year > maybe. I've removed the LED lights and examined them...they all work, > and the other brake lights have always worked. Yes I can continue to > ignore it, but ding dang it, does anyone know how to fix it? > Regards, > Bill K This happens to pretty much every single owner. It's the brake light circuit switch (as you'd expect) and it's down near the brake pedal. It has a small plastic piston that pushes against the brake pedal and when you press the pedal it turns the brake lights on. The switch itself is probably fine but it also has a test connection since you have an OBC which causes this fault. Replace the whole unit @$30 and it will never come back (at least mine hasn't in 70,000 miles). After this you'll just have to deal with omnipresent brake light failure messages due to corrosion on the bulb holders. Make sure you get the one for OBC which has a different connector. Thanks, Mark

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#9. RE: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Vikas.Sinha@zf.com
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Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:45:12 -0400 From: <Vikas.Sinha@zf.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? Just one data point: it will come back. I did mine at 40k and at 116k it has returned. Waiting for it to warm up to fix it ($%*@# winter). It's kinda historic -- this will be the first time I'm doing one of those they-all-do-that jobs for the second time on this car. (Not counting jobs I did for the second time because I screwed them up the first time.) Vik 97 M3/4 > Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:30:30 -0400 > From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> > > This happens to pretty much every single owner. It's the brake light > circuit switch (as you'd expect) and it's down near the brake pedal. It > has a small plastic piston that pushes against the brake pedal and when > you press the pedal it turns the brake lights on. The switch itself is > probably fine but it also has a test connection since you have an OBC > which causes this fault. Replace the whole unit @$30 and it will never > come back (at least mine hasn't in 70,000 miles).

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#10. Re: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? - from Mark D
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Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:03:51 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? Vikas.Sinha@zf.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:45:12 -0400 > From: <Vikas.Sinha@zf.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] "Brake light circuit" warning? > > Just one data point: it will come back. I did mine at 40k and at 116k > it has returned. Waiting for it to warm up to fix it ($%*@# winter). > It's kinda historic -- this will be the first time I'm doing one of > those they-all-do-that jobs for the second time on this car. (Not > counting jobs I did for the second time because I screwed them up the > first time.) > > I was thinking about that the other day too. At some point I'll need to replace my "new" cooling system if I keep the car long enough. (Lately I've been itching for a 335 or an E46 M3) I've only experienced this before on Chevy's and only because pep-boys and others parts are so terrible (alternators especially). It's hilarious though my girlfriend thinks my M3 is on its last legs due to the noisy air injection pump. How little she understands :) I refuse to replace it until it actually fails which it will NEVER do, especially now that I replaced the valve that allows exhaust gases into the mechanism in the first place. I've been hunting ebay for them but how do I know the used ebay special is any quieter than the one I have? Tough call on that. Thanks, Mark

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