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#1. RE: Brake Light Switch Replaced - problem - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 16:23:13 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: Brake Light Switch Replaced - problem Didn't work. Popped off the bracket since I was tired of assuming the position under the dash. Turns out I broke off one of the thin tabs that keeps the switch up tight in the bracket. The switch was loose in the bracket. Wasted $20 that I could have used to immunize some kids in Africa or something but now I get to give another $20 to the so called masters of design in Germany. :-) -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 1:45 PM To: E36M3 Cc: debuhr@comcast.net Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Replaced - problem on 3/27/08 2:22 PM, debuhr@comcast.net wrote: > While it was simple to put in the new switch, I now have a constant "Brake > Circuit Failure" message as soon as the key goes to the ON position. All three > brake lights are working fine. The buton on the new switch seems to move the > right way when I depress the pedal. BTDT. There's a trick to the installation that isn't fully explained anywhere that I've found. The switch has an internal self adjusting feature for the plunger travel. It's essential to install it with the plunger fully extended, which means the brake pedal has to be depressed enough that the two don't touch until you've got the switch seated. Then when you allow the pedal to rise it sets the proper switch plunger travel. Unfortunately the pedal is very hard to depress by hand, especially when you're lying contorted on your back in the foot well with your legs waving in the air like a two-dollar - umm, I mean like a furry little kitty cat, yeah, that's it. Some people use a broom stick to wedge the pedal down, but that gets in the way of working. I've got a better method. Simply hook up your brake bleeder to a front caliper and crack open the bleed nipple. Now you can very easily push the brake pedal down by hand, even when assuming the installation position. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1346 - Release Date: 3/27/2008 10:03 AM
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: new clutch fluid - from Alex Demsky
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 20:38:31 -0400 From: Alex Demsky <alexander.demsky@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: new clutch fluid Nope, never changed the diff fluid. Only have 49k on the car. Is it usually a time thing or a mileage thing when you are supposed to change it? Ill take the warning and change both at the same time anyway. On 3/27/08 4:12 PM, "Jeff Conner" <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 13:12:14 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: new clutch fluid > >> Does anyone recommend changing the diff fluid as well at the same time? > > Have you ever changed the fluid in your diff? I would say absolutely. It's > already going to smell bad with the Transmission fluid, the 75/90 gear oil > will just add to the bouquet :-) > > I do the transmission & diff fluid at the same time in both cars, every > January in the 95 (trackdog) and every 25-30k miles in the 98 (sedan) > > for the sake of saying: > Redline D4ATF in the trans > Redline 75/90 in the diff > > -jeff > Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 07 BMW 335i ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Hyper335.html 97 BMW M3 S/C ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html 07 Ducati 695 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Ducati695.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly"
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: Brake Light Switch Replaced - problem - from Mark D
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 20:54:50 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Brake Light Switch Replaced - problem Dave DeBuhr wrote: > Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 16:23:13 -0700 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: Brake Light Switch Replaced - problem > > Didn't work. Popped off the bracket since I was tired of assuming the > position under the dash. > Turns out I broke off one of the thin tabs that keeps the switch up tight in > the bracket. > The switch was loose in the bracket. Wasted $20 that I could have used to > immunize some kids in Africa > or something but now I get to give another $20 to the so called masters of > design in Germany. :-) > > That particular part was designed by a chinese immigrant I think :-P Thanks, Mark
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: new clutch fluid - from Jeff Conner
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 17:59:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: new clutch fluid 50k isn't bad at all, actually. Mine had 45 when I got a hold of it, did it then the first time and once since. "Change Final Drive Fluid (1995 and later models: change synthetic oil every 2nd inspection II)" is what it says in the Bentley manual. Sounds like it might be time to do it :) -jeff ----- Original Message ---- From: Alex Demsky <alexander.demsky@gmail.com> To: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com>; E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 5:38:31 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: new clutch fluid Nope, never changed the diff fluid. Only have 49k on the car. Is it usually a time thing or a mileage thing when you are supposed to change it? Ill take the warning and change both at the same time anyway. On 3/27/08 4:12 PM, "Jeff Conner" <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 13:12:14 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jeff Conner <jeff.conner@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: new clutch fluid > >> Does anyone recommend changing the diff fluid as well at the same time? > > Have you ever changed the fluid in your diff? I would say absolutely. It's > already going to smell bad with the Transmission fluid, the 75/90 gear oil > will just add to the bouquet :-) > > I do the transmission & diff fluid at the same time in both cars, every > January in the 95 (trackdog) and every 25-30k miles in the 98 (sedan) > > for the sake of saying: > Redline D4ATF in the trans > Redline 75/90 in the diff > > -jeff > Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 07 BMW 335i ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Hyper335.html 97 BMW M3 S/C ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html 07 Ducati 695 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Ducati695.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly" ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
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#5. Fwd: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 21:24:05 EDT From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Fwd: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight I also forgot to mention.....for SCCA National Solo II Street tire Class, the Bridgestone RE01-R is the tire of choice. The tire have the LOWEST tread wear rating allowed by DOT to still be considered a STREET TIRE and not an R-Compound Tire. I think this tire swept the podium in several street tires classes at SCCA National. **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight - from Jon Siccardi - Treehouse
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 23:48:16 -0500 From: "Jon Siccardi - Treehouse" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight Didn't see anyne mention BBS RK. They look really good on E36/E46. Super strong (stronger than kosei) and 16.5lb for 17". Run RA1's Street and track. You laugh - it's awesome! 255-40-17. This will look mean as he11. awesome performance at all times. Avoid snow! jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #053 TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Bader" <mbader@exammaster.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:22 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight > Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 16:10:42 -0400 > From: Matt Bader <mbader@exammaster.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight > > Thanks, ideally, I'd like to have a perfect set up for the track, and a > perfect set up for the street. But that would mean three sets of > wheels/tires, including the one for Winter! > > For the street, I think lightweight, modestly wide tires (PS2's) would > probably be great. I agree, ideally for the track the RE01-R is probably > better (from what I have read, no actual experience) and in a wider size. > I am making my final purchase decision on Monday, so I will consider your > points. The fact that my car is supercharged also tips the balance > somewhat in favor of the wider tire with more traction. > > Matt > > RFKoby@aol.com wrote: >> Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 16:00:18 EDT >> From: RFKoby@aol.com >> Subject: Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight >> >> Matt, >> I have a preference for the Bridgestone RE01-R. If you only plan to use >> the wheel and tire setup of the summer, this would be my tire of choice. >> They are soft and sticky, and excellent in the wet. [I pulled 1.1g in >> the wet in the Carousel at Road America (Neil Maller was in the car with >> me as ballast / witness )]. The tires also give a very nice ride. >> some data for you, >> the Kosei K1 17x8.5 is 9.5 inches wide, rim edge to rim edge. >> Michelin PS2 235/40/17 is 9.5" wide (on 8.5 rim), 220 tread wear, 21 >> lbs. >> your rim edges might get damaged when you lay the wheels down flat. >> Bridgestone RE01-R 235/40/17 is 9.5" wide (on 8.5 rim), 140 tread wear, >> 25 lbs. >> Bridgestone RE01-R 245/40/17 is 9.8" wide (on 8.5 rim), 180 tread wear, >> 27 lbs. >> For track use., I would go to the wider 245/40/17 and with BS RE01-R. >> They cost about the same, and I think the RE01-R have more grip than the >> PS2. >> >> >> >> >> **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL >> Home. >> (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001) >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >> >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >> Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> >> >> > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight - from Chris Teague
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 22:15:40 -0700 From: Chris Teague <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight Bob, The RE-01 is a great tire, and we have run those. But the Yokohama Advan AD07's are a little bit faster and have a little stiffer sidewall. Only downside is the price. in 2007, the first 7 or so spots at the SCCA nationals in STU were Yok's, then a Bridgestone car. For the smaller cars in STS and such, Yok doesn't make sizes for them, so in some classes you do see a lot of Bridgestones. Chris On Mar 27, 2008, at 6:32 PM, RFKoby@aol.com wrote: > > > I also forgot to mention.....for SCCA National Solo II Street tire > Class, > the Bridgestone RE01-R is the tire of choice. > The tire have the LOWEST tread wear rating allowed by DOT to still be > considered a STREET TIRE and not an R-Compound Tire. > I think this tire swept the podium in several street tires classes > at SCCA > National. >
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#8. Fwd: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 06:58:41 EDT From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Fwd: [E36M3] Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight Ah yes, and there is also the Neova. There are some "holes" in both the Neova and RE01-R size ranges, and thus that sometimes makes the deciding factor. Sorry about my "selective blindness". Thanks Chris, I stand corrected. I used to follow SCCA closely, but not so much anymore. Bob, The RE-01 is a great tire, and we have run those. But the Yokohama Advan AD07's are a little bit faster and have a little stiffer sidewall. Only downside is the price. in 2007, the first 7 or so spots at the SCCA nationals in STU were Yok's, then a Bridgestone car. For the smaller cars in STS and such, Yok doesn't make sizes for them, so in some classes you do see a lot of Bridgestones. Chris On Mar 27, 2008, at 6:32 PM, RFKoby@aol.com wrote: > > > I also forgot to mention.....for SCCA National Solo II Street tire > Class, > the Bridgestone RE01-R is the tire of choice. > The tire have the LOWEST tread wear rating allowed by DOT to still be > considered a STREET TIRE and not an R-Compound Tire. > I think this tire swept the podium in several street tires classes > at SCCA > National. **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
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#9. OT: Possibly selling a 2002 M Roadster - from Dave Thomas
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 11:07:52 -0700 From: Dave Thomas <dave@sasdatalink.com> Subject: OT: Possibly selling a 2002 M Roadster My father-in-law has a very clean (white, original owner, 100% stock, hardtop, about 50K miles if I remember right) 2002 M Roadster that he is considering selling. He asked me for some sources of info so he could see what they are going for these days but I really did not have much to give him. What is a really nice example worth? Any suggestions on where to advertise it? Anyone on here possibly interested? Thanks for any info, Dave
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#10. Re: Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 17:01:55 -0400 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Wheel/Tire Set-up - less unsprung weight on 3/27/08 4:12 PM, RFKoby@aol.com wrote: > I pulled 1.1g in the wet in the Carousel at Road America (Neil Maller was in > the car with me as ballast / witness ). Nothing to do with the tires - it was all due to my superior ballasting skills. ;-) Neil 96 M3